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Post by skip17 on Aug 22, 2011 11:46:35 GMT -5
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Post by hhmf3x on Aug 22, 2011 13:39:04 GMT -5
whats payout for compacts?
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Post by hvyeqop69 on Aug 22, 2011 16:57:07 GMT -5
Crappy, and unless your related you wont fair too good.
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Post by luggnutts on Aug 22, 2011 18:23:14 GMT -5
man that sucks to hear d.j. but, what r the compact rules and payouts, might be a good derby to finish my suzuki if it doesn't get trashed in hoisington sept 4
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Post by hhmf3x on Aug 22, 2011 19:44:59 GMT -5
so its like a family ran derby then?
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Post by luggnutts on Aug 22, 2011 21:10:55 GMT -5
umm, yeaaahh, i just looked on the map and saw where Horton Ks is...dont think im gonna drive from Wichita to finish off the suzuki..especially after the warm, heartfelt comments made about the derby... good luck to all who runs in it..prolly just see everyone at the snowball fight in topeka...
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Post by crusher71 on Aug 22, 2011 23:07:20 GMT -5
WHERE IS THE 3 GRAND ADDED IN? SO IF ONLY 20 BIG CARS ENTER, THEN YOU GET 40% OF 400 BUCKS TO WIN? FIRST PLACE WOULD PAY 160 BUCKS?? WTF??? WHAT ARE THE RULES? ?
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Post by hvyeqop69 on Aug 23, 2011 16:37:05 GMT -5
The rules are 5 on 5 welding. 4 cyl only on compacts. 6's run w/ big cars. They'll shake your gas tank and say you passed.
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Post by hvyeqop69 on Aug 23, 2011 16:38:51 GMT -5
When i won the compacts 3 years ago. I got $125 for 12 or 13 cars.
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Post by crusher71 on Aug 23, 2011 18:30:53 GMT -5
DOESNT LOOK LIKE THERES 3 GRAND ADDED ANYWHERE..EXCEPT SOMEONES POCKET..... .
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Post by kimmierica on Aug 23, 2011 18:56:46 GMT -5
Well I guess we will make alot of people happy this year by not being there!! I talked to JT he said that 1st- 1,000 + 40% 2nd- 750 + 30% 3rd-500 + 20% 4th- + 10% and they havent decided on the payout for compacts he said the reason the payouts arent on the flyer because they sent the flyer out early...i dont really know I will post the rules tomorrow for those that want them.
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Post by derbyB70 on Aug 23, 2011 19:23:14 GMT -5
hopefully we get alot more cars this year.. and its not a family ran derby
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Post by hvyeqop69 on Aug 23, 2011 22:18:21 GMT -5
Tim, then why do they get mad and stop the derby every time a built rwd hits one of their junk fwd's?
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Post by derbyB70 on Aug 24, 2011 7:38:10 GMT -5
That certain someone that was stopping it, is a damn circle track driver which shouldn't even be a judge at all ;D
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Post by kimmierica on Aug 24, 2011 8:37:44 GMT -5
This is what JT sent me any questions you can contact him.
HORTON DEMOLITION DERBY RULES***If car does not pass inspection or driver is unwilling to change car to pass inspection - absolutely no refunds!! *** All rules will be followed, or you will not run!! Any American make sedan or station wagon can be run. No 1973 or Older Imperials or Imperial sub-frames/ frames, 4x4’s, ambulances, hearses, trucks, limousines, etc… All bodies must be mounted on stock frames. No frame swaps. (Example: 67' Imperial sub-frame on a New Yorker) No reinforcements allowed other than specified below. Any metal added to reinforce the car is illegal! Drivers must be 18 years of age and have a valid driver’s license. Ages 14 –17 must have a notarized permission slip and some form of driver’s license. Driver must wear seat belt and helmet, along with eye protection at all times when operating vehicle. Also all vehicles MUST have a fire extinguisher mounted inside the car, with in reach of the driver. ALL drivers and crewmembers must attend the driver’s meeting. DO NOT hit the driver’s door! Sometimes this happens, but if it looks intentional or carelessness, you will be disqualified. Don’t use your door as a shield; it may cause you to get disqualified. No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle. Any open door or fire will cause disqualification. If in heat, you may fix it and come back in the consolation. NO sandbagging or holding or if you are caught hiding or positioning your door .We will stop the derby and paint a pink strip all the way around your car. You are given 1 minute for restarts and 1 minute if you are hung up or to get out of ditch. No alcohol for the driver while competing. Driver is responsible for pit crew. If we have a problem with either you will be disqualified. NO BITCH RULE. Any controversies will be taken up at the drivers meeting. Any questions give us a call! If it doesn’t say you can do it, don’t do it. Call 1st!! Judges decisions are FINAL!!! PREPARATION: All glass, plastic, and pot metal must be removed. Nothing may remain in the bottom of the doors or trunks. All outside hardware must be removed (door handles, mirrors, chrome, molding, screw, fiber glass, Station Wagon Decking, etc) No added weight to the car except the weld. No buffing, grinding, or packing the frames, trunks, doors, or under floor. Front seats must be securely mounted to the floor; however, if you are using bolts to secure the seat, they may not go through the frame. Must have some form of an operable seat belt. All cars MAY have inner padding on driver's door. All flammable materials inside the car must be removed except necessary safety padding and seat. A pipe or bar behind (max 5” O.D.) the seat is mandatory (bar may only be positioned 6” behind the back of the seat). An optional pipe may also be put in the front where the dashboard was located, in between the front door posts. A 6” by 6” plate at the end of the pipe may be welded to the interior of the car behind the seat and the bars must be welded to these plates. You may connect the bar behind the seat and the dash bar with a bar on both the drivers and passenger side to make a 4 point box style cage. No uprights may be attached from the cross pipes to the floor or frame. If you want to put a roll loop in that is fine, but may not be attached to floor or roof (connect it to the bar behind your seat). Skid plates are allowed must be separate oil/transmission plates. No full-length skid plates, No bolting or welding to frame. Minimal pre-bending of body is allowed, no tucking allowed, must have access to inspect. Fuel Pumps: Electric Fuel Pumps are allowed. Must be covered and have cutoff switch near steering wheel and marked in Large Red Letters. All lines must have double clamps. Tires: Tires no bigger than 15 inch (any ply) may be used. No split rims, studded tires or tractor lugs. Foam filled or Doubled tires are OK-we don’t want any flats!!! Valve seam protectors allowed but do not screw tires to the rim Brakes: All cars must exhibit the ability to stop. If a car loses its braking ability it will be subject to disqualification. Engines, transmissions and rear ends: Any power train combination may be used in any car, but must be mounted within 5" inches of the original motor. Must be mounted securely. You may cut a hole in the firewall to accommodate the engine within reason; however, it must be covered to prevent a fire hazard. No holes will be allowed in the front floor of the car except to accommodate the transmission shifter, fuel lines, transmission lines and wiring. Patching holes is for safety not reinforcement; if patching rust holes you may use sheet metal only and not exceed 2” past where rust stops. Stock motor mounts may be welded; transmission may be chained, only secure motor chains to an existing bolt, do not weld or add plates to attach it to the frame. Rear ends must be of a passenger car origin only, maximum 5 bolt. You may use any type (Ford/GM/Mopar/Hybrid) rear end in any make of car, no floater or truck rear-ends may be used. You may tilt rear end by shortening or lengthening rear-end control arms, however they must still be working. No excessive reinforcement, do not reinforce more than one inch past extension area (must be in the middle of the arms) and no metal added to the inside or ends of control arms. Doors and windows: The driver’s doors may be welded solid. All other exterior door seams may be welded 5 inches on 5 inches off inches (weld 4, skip 4, weld 4, skip 4, etc…(do not add metal) If you do not weld your doors you must chain or use #9 wire, at least twice per seam. You may not bolt your doors shut. If chaining or wiring, none may go thru or around the frame. A minimum of one bar, chain or wire running from the outside (top) of roof down to the cowl on the front window is your choice. Drivers door may have window netting for drivers protection. No other window opening is allowed to have any form of window netting which includes #9 wire. Welding: The only welding allowed is the bumpers shocks, brackets and seams, cowl bar, stock motor mounts, safety pipes and doors. A Arms forward no added reinforcement Hood and trunk may be welded, wired, chained bolted You may use filler rod. Or no more than 11/2 wide strap on door seams NO OTHER WELDING………. Bolting: All body bolts must be stock size (GM's are 7/16”)except radiator core support (may replace old bolts with new bolts). May use 4 (four) hood bolts to hold the hood down. They may be a maximum of ¾” in diameter. Must be sheet metal to sheet metal only, with the exception of the front two bolts may go through the frame if bolting not welding. May use 4 (four) ¾ inch bolts to secure the trunk lid or tailgate, however may not go through the frame. Station wagons may use two straps or chain and 4 bolts total to hold the tailgate. Washers may not exceed 5" (five) inches in diameter. Only three 3/8” bolts or self tapping screws with 1” washers per cutout hole (trunk/hood), or wheel well. No welding of the cutouts is allowed. You may have a 12X12 inch hole minimum cut in the trunk lid for inspection or be able to open. Hood must have 12 by 12 inch hole minimum for fire and inspection. Chains or # 9 wire: 3/8” inch chain is allowed to secure front and rear bumpers to the frame. Only two chains may be used per bumper. Must not extend past radiator support in front or factory brackets in the rear. No chain may be welded at any point to the frame or body. If you don’t secure using bolts you may chain or wire the hood or trunk in 4 places with chain no longer than 24" inches. Don’t not wrap around the frame. Sheet metal to sheet metal only. You may weld a 5” washer to the hood or trunk to run the chain or wire thru. You may chain your motor, but it must be bolted to an existing bolt, You may weld motor mounts. You may chain or wire your axle to the frame, to prevent loss of leaf or coil springs, you may use 3/8inch chain or 4 loops of wire, do not weld or add metal, must be looped around frame and axle, uni-body cars may use one bolt through frame (no excessive washers). You may not weld any chain links to create a bar effect. Bumpers: Bumpers are not interchangeable. No homemade bumpers or brackets. You may weld the bumper seams, shocks and the brackets to the frame. If you choose not to use brackets, you may weld bumpers directly to the frame however NO added metal may be used. No welding on frame except the brackets. Bumpers may be cut so they do not smash into the tires during the event: Bumpers may be flipped. Compression bumper shocks may be drained, slid back into the shock and welded fully. Weld them good we don’t want bumpers on the track No material may be added other than the weld. No bumper chrome may be welded to the body. Frame: There’s absolutely no welding on the frame unless specified in the rules. Original body on stock frames for that year must be used. You may cut frames for minimal pre-bending, but may not weld the cut. All body mounts (rubber biscuit and metal cone (“Pucks”), must be stock and in place. You may not remove "Pucks" and place washers between the frame and body. You may replace stock bolts and washers on outside of body and frame, but must not exceed stock bolt diameter or 5" inch washer diameter. No body bolt may extend below frame, all bolts and nuts must be inside of frame. Do not paint, undercoat or cover the frame in anyway. Radiators & Radiator supports: Radiators must stay in the stock position. (No added water capacity). Lower Radiator support body mount bushings may be removed and replaced with Max. 3/4” bolt and can go up through your hood (counts as hood bolts). Transmission coolers: Transmission coolers will be allowed. Metal or steel braided line must be used. Rubber lines must be double clamped and minimal inside the car. No fuel or low pressure line may be used. Transmission Condenser must be enclosed or covered. Overall safety will be determined by officials at time of inspection. Gas Tanks: Original gas tanks must be removed from the car. You must have gas tank securely mounted inside the car, behind the driver’s seat and covered. Your fuel line may only be ran inside of the car and may not go down through the floor and along the frame rail. A maximum size of 6.5 gallons can be used: A marine type tank and/or fuel cell must be used. Overall safety will be determined by officials at time of inspection. Battery: Maximum of 2 (two) 12-volt batteries may be used. The batteries must be securely mounted inside the car in front of the passenger seat and covered. Overall safety will be determined by officials at time of inspection. Air Cleaners: You must have an air cleaner over the carburetor at all times during the event. No starting fluid will be allowed. There must be 12X12 inch opening cut in hood in case of a fire. Suspension: Suspension must be Original Factory for that make and model of car. (No pulling shocks and putting pipes in their place). No other means other than tires and coil spring spacers may be used to raise the car's front suspension. Both ends of car must have a working suspension and bounce freely. No adding reinforcements to the suspension or steering parts. Steering wheel to control box can be modified only. No putting leaf springs on top of the axle. You may not clamp the shocks. Or weld on the rear. You are allowed nine (9) leaf’s maximum and have factory spacing. You may use 3 leaf spring clamps/shackles per leaf (not excessive in size, only two bolts per clamp), No welding. Springs must be of passenger car origin. NO TRUCK LEAF SPRINGS ALLOWED. Suspension must work. Air shocks lines must be cut.
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