Post by THEEXTREME on Jul 23, 2013 9:11:04 GMT -5
General Rules
All judge’s decisions are final. The head judge has the final say on all
derby-related matters.
No profanity allowed on the cars.
Classless behavior by you, yourself, or any of your pit members will absolutely
not be tolerated and could result in either disqualification or, in the worst
case, a criminal investigation.
No driver will be allowed to compete if
he or she is in possession of alcohol or is under the influence of alcohol in
any way shape or form.
You must make an aggressive hit on
another live car in less than one minute. If you do not make enough aggressive
hits, we will let you know. If you are making consistent hits and not
“sand-bagging”, you might be allowed more time than those who make only what is
required as a “hit” every minute.
No intentional hits of a driver’s door.
Depending on the severity of the hit, you may get a warning or you may be
disqualified. If you use your driver’s side door to “block”, do not be
surprised if the other driver is not warned or disqualified. This will be left
at the discretion of the head official.
ABSOLUTELY NO TEAM DRIVING!!! You MIGHT
get one warning for this, but most likely you will be disqualified on the spot.
During the competition, stay in your car
with your seatbelt and helmet on, unless an official tells you it’s OK to leave
your car and exit the arena.
No driver, pitmen, or spectator may
approach the officials during the competition. Once again, classless behavior
will not be tolerated.
If you are black flagged (i.e. team
driving or drivers door hit) you will finish in the place in the competition in
which you were disqualified. For example; if there are five cars remaining
after you are disqualified, you will have finished in 6th place.
Cars will submit to re-inspection after the
competition and if a car is then found to be illegal, it will be disqualified
and the rule (black-flag rule) above will not apply. Just because we “miss”
something in the initial inspection, yet we find it in the post inspection, you
will still be disqualified. Your car could possibly be cut open or drilled
during the post-race inspection. The Officials will have drills and torches at
their disposal and will use them if needed. If a car does not bend as the
officials believe it should, that car could be cut open to answer this
question. This is not what will happen to every car, but it is a possibility.
Protest fee is $200 cash and must be made
by a driver competing in the same class as the car being protested. It must be
presented to the head official along with a specific and detailed complaint.
The car in question will be re-inspected for this complaint and if it is found
to be illegal and severe enough to have affected the outcome, that car will be
disqualified and the above rule (black-flag rule) will not apply as well. If
the claim is substantiated, the protest fee will be returned. If not, it will
remain with the Promoter.
Helmets and Fire jackets will be required
this year. Long pants are required. Eye protection and gloves are also highly
recommended. Shoes/boots are required. Helmets must be DOT rated and are
required. Full-face helmets are also highly recommended.
Check-in times!!!! Read up people…
Inspections will start six hours prior to the start of the show and will end
two hours prior. This means you have to BE IN LINE for your inspection by 5pm if the show is to start at 7pm. If you show up after that, you will not be
inspected…No exceptions, and believe me when we say that we will enforce this
rule. Any inspections done after 5pm
will be re-inspections only. Emergencies and unexpected events do happen, but
you had better call the head official if you will be late for ANY reason. It
will be at his discretion whether you will be allowed to be inspected and
compete.
Overall condition of the vehicle must be safe. This applies to used or fresh
cars. If the officials deem a car unsafe to compete, it will not be allowed to
compete.
Seat belts are required and must be
functional.
All cars must be fully stripped of all flammable materials. Factory seat and
seat belts are the only things allowed to remain in the passenger compartment
of the car. All glass, chrome, plastic, rubber, pot metal and other non-steel
materials must be removed from the exterior and underside of the car. Cars must
also be free of debris and trash prior to inspection. All trailer hitches, tow
bars and other material used for towing must also be removed.
Factory fuel tanks and fuel lines must be
removed or if the lines remain, they must be blown clean of any liquids.
All vehicles must exhibit the ability to
stop. Brakes must work!
Anywhere in these rules where it says you
may weld something, that means ONE pass with the welder, not to exceed ½” wide
weld bead.
Car and driver qualify together. If the
car and driver check in together and qualify for the feature together, that
driver must drive that car in the feature.
Full
Size Car rules
1980 and newer Ford and Chrysler cars
and station wagons only.
No 2003 and newer Ford vehicle or frames
unless the stock engine cradle and suspension is used. No hearses, ambulances,
limos, vans, minivans, SUV’s, trucks, or any other vehicle considered a
“truck”.
1979 and newer GM cars will be allowed
into this class. 1977 and 78 Chevy Impalas and Caprices will also be allowed.
Used or Pre-ran cars may fix ripped, torn, bent, or twisted frames. The site in
need of repair must be obvious to the judges. Used cars will be allowed 16” of
repair plate per frame rail (4”wide x 3/16” thick). The plate may be as long as
you want, but you only have 16” total per frame rail. So you can put one 16”x4”
plate on each hump and be done or you may put two 4”x4” plates on the front and
a 8”x4” plate on the hump (per frame rail). If you don’t understand this,
please call. All excess plates and welds will be cut off or if it’s excessive,
you will not run. Any plate longer than 4” must have a ½” hole drilled in it to
prove thickness and that it is the only plate welded in that site.
Cage
Bars:
For
the driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to
doorpost and it can be in an “X” shape if desired, but may not touch, connect,
or be welded to the frame. It also must be no more than 6” away from the back
of the driver’s seat. You may also weld in a “dash bar” where the factory
dashboard was located. You are only allowed ONE dash bar! This bar must be at
minimum 6” away from any other sheet metal on the firewall or any engine
component or distributor protector before the show. You may also weld door bars
vertically from the dash bar to the bar between the doorposts along the inside
of both the drivers and passenger side doors. These bars may not be longer than
60”, so your seat bar must be within the length of this bar. You may also weld
in four down bars from the bars along the doors down to the floor pan or top of
the frame rail to protect the drivers feet/legs or a battery if it’s located on
the passenger floorboard. These down bars must be within the door seams and
must be straight up and down, not angled. If you run a halo bar in the back,
this may go to the floor sheet metal/frame and will count as your two back down
bars. These bars cannot be connected to any body bolt or body bolt washer and
must be at least 4” away from any body bolt or washer. None of the bars listed
may be larger than 8” in diameter except the down bars and they may not be
wider than 6”.
Halo or Roll Bars:
You
may weld a roll bar to the bar behind the drivers seat, but this bar must be
placed in the car vertically. It may be welded to the the rear driver’s cage bar.
There may be three bolts through the top crossover bar through the roof sheet
metal. It may not be welded to the roof. If you have your halo bar welded to
the top of the frame, this counts as your two rear “down bars” as stated above.
Drivers
Door:
Please
reinforce your drivers door very good. You will in all likelihood take at least
one shot in the door, so make it safe! The drivers door must be welded shut for
safety. You may weld both the inner and outer door seams solid. We also
recommend that you reinforce the door skin. You may weld a plate across the
door, but it may not extend more than 6” past the front and rear door seem. You
may also place a pipe inside the drivers door, but it also cannot extend more
then 6” past the front and rear door seem. No grader blades allowed on the
outside of the door.
Windshield
Bars:
A
minimum of two steel straps or bars (not to exceed 2”) must be located in the
windshield area. They may be welded or bolted into place. If welded, they may
have only 6” of weld total at the top and 6” of weld at the bottom and must
attach to sheet metal only. They may not be connected or welded to the hood.
They may not act to strategically strengthen the car or they will have to be
cut/altered as the officials see fit.
Battery:
Must
be re-located to the interior of the passenger compartment and we recommend the
passenger side floor board. The battery or batteries must be in a solid
container and covered. They also must be securely attached to the floorboard of
the vehicle or cage, not to the frame in any way.
Gas
Tanks and Gas Tank Protectors:
No
plastic gas cans unless it is a plastic or urethane “fuel cell”, in which case
it must be placed inside a metal container. Steel boat tanks are recommended.
10 gallon maximum for any gas tank. Gas tanks must be securely fastened inside
the passenger compartment and in the rear seat area. They must be fastened to
the floor, rear seat area, or rear cage bar. You will be allowed a gas tank
protector that may extend backwards from the rear cage bar towards the rear
seat area. It may not be larger than 24”x6” at the back and must be at least 1”
away from the sheet metal/package tray on fresh cars. Rear seat sheet metal may
not be beat back or moved. We must be able to run our hand between the rear
seat sheet meal and the gas tank protector. The bars may run straight back or
angle in, but the rear bar may be no wider than 24” and none of this apparatus
may touch any sheet metal or the frame in any way. If it is excessive and the
judges deem that this apparatus will be or become an advantage to the car, it
will not be allowed. We want this to actually protect the gas tank and that is
it! The gas tank itself also may not act as any sort of reinforcement. The
tank, if homemade, may not be wider than 24”.
If you have modified your upper or lower
control arm brackets to fit your rearend, and these new brackets will act to
strengthen the frame along with your gas tank protector, you will have to cut
your gas tank protector.
Oil
and Transmission Coolers:
Engine
Oil and Transmission Oil coolers are allowed. You must use high pressure
hydraulic lines and fittings.
Frame and Body Mounts:
On
the 1979 and newer GM cars, you may weld one plate on the outside only of the
rear humps over the rear end. This plate may not exceed 6” wide, 22” long, and
¼” thick. There also must be three ½” holes drilled in these plates to prove
the thickness. You must also follow the frame rails with these plates. If you
have a used GM car, the above repair plate rule will still apply and this plate
will not count as your repair plates, but you will only be allowed 12”x4” of
plate to use to make your repairs.
No frame/body swaps with older cars. No
added metal to the car or body is allowed other than what is set forth in the
rules to follow. Plain and simple, nothing is to be added to the inside or
outside of the frame other than what is allowed. Absolutely no painting, undercoating, grease, “silicone
and dirt tricks” on the frame. There is also absolutely no reason for there to
be any metal located INSIDE the frame. Any attempt to obscure the frame holes
to hinder the inspection of the inside of the frame will be considered grounds
for disqualification. Scopes will be used!
As for the re-shaping of the stock frame,
this is ONLY what will be allowed. You may re-shape the frame from the rear
humps backwards towards the rear bumper. This means where the frame begins to
turn upward just behind the lower trailing arms mounts and rear seat back body
bolt, you may re-shape your frame. This may include beating the sides in or
“squaring” the edges.
You may re-weld the top and bottom
factory frame seams from the cross-member forward (unless you have moved your
cross member back, this will be allowed from where the factory cross-member was
located. ½” wide weld bead maximum. Vertical pinch welds on Chrysler cars may
be folded and welded. This will allow you to properly weld any factory seam
welds, and tilt or “pitch” your frame.
You may repair rust, but read carefully.
If the car is fresh, the rust must be cut out and the patch must fit inside the
hole cut out. The plate may not overlap and MUST be the same thickness as the
original frame metal. There must be a ½” hole drilled in this frame repair
plate to prove its thickness.
Cutting and/or pre-notching of the frame
is allowed, but you may not re-weld the frame rails where it is notched or cut.
No adding or subtracting body mounts. You
may not move any body mounts either as to shorten the frame rail. If you move a
body mount hole and your car cannot be made right, you will not run. Chrysler
suf-frame cars may add two additional body bolts (one per side) in the rear
seat/trunk area. These bolts may not be larger than ½” diameter and must use
regular ½” washers. If you try to use a larger washer, you will have to remove
it all together and you will not be allowed to replace it. These two bolts may
to through the floor sheet metal down through the bottom of the sub-frame.
Body mount bolts may be replaced with up
to ¾” bolts. There must be at least a 1” space between the body and frame.
Rubber bushings may be replaced with other spacers, but must be at least 1”
thick and the same diameter as the original bushing. Spacers may be welded to
the body, but not the frame. You may use original rubber body “pucks”, but you
must leave the metal inserts in to maintain the 1” spacing. Do not devise a way
to suck the body down tight to the frame. Maximum 5” body mount washers allowed
on the top of the body bolts inside the passenger compartment and trunk. Sub-frame
cars may have washers up to 2” larger than the factory body mount hole (for
example: if the hole is 4”, the use of an 8” washer is permitted). These
washers may not be welded to the floor pans or trunk floor. Washers inside the
frame must be in stock location and may be 2” larger than the original frame
hole. Chrysler K-frame cars can remove the rubber spacers between the frame and
the K-member and bolt them up tight. Bolts may be replaced with up to ¾”
diameter bolts.
Radiator support (or commonly called the
Core Support) must remain in stock location. The radiator support mount
bushings may be removed completely. The radiator support may contact the frame
but must not be welded to it. The two radiator mount bolts may be up to
1”diameter. These two bolts may be welded to the frame. These two bolts may
extend straight down through to the bottom side of the frame. No angling back
to “A” frames to form a “kicker”. These two bolts may extend up next to the
radiator support, through to the top of the hood, and be used as two hood hold
down bolts.
These
two bolts may be welded to the radiator support. These two bolts may be welded
to the frame if they do not go down through the frame. Thicker (taller) than
stock spacers are allowed between the radiator support and the frame. Spacers
may be welded to frame or the support, not both. No bolts allowed in front of
radiator.
#9 Wire (four loops maximum) or cable
(one loop of 3/8”) from driver side frame rail, across to the passenger side
frame rail, is allowed. If used, it must be located above and behind the rear
axle housing. No welding.
You are allowed 2 spots of #9 wire, no more than four wires thick, from roof
sheet metal only to frame. You may weld in a standard ¾” washer on the roof
sheet metal to keep the wire from ripping the metal.
You must run the transmission cross
member in the stock location. You can weld 2” angle iron no thicker than 3/16”,
and no longer than 6” to the side of the frame to support the cross member. If
you pre-bend your frame, you may not use this angle iron to reinforce your
bend. The transmission cross member is the only way a transmission may be tied
in. Do not attach transmission to dash bar or any other point that is not the
cross member. You must use a factory made car cross member. No homemade cross
members.
Body: Bodies must remain stock. No re-welding of factory seams inside the
engine compartment, inside the passenger compartment, inside the trunk
compartment, on the underside of the body, under the hood or trunk lid. No added
bolts or screws to any body seams. No added metal anywhere on the body of the
car because of “rust”. If the body is rusty, we must be able to see the rusted
areas that have been fixed. Bodies will be drilled or cut open for inspection
if needed as determined by the officials.
Hoods must open for inspection. Hoods
must remain in the stock location and position. Bending down, or bending up,
excess hood in front of radiator support allowed. Other than that bend, hoods
must remain flat. Hoods must have a minimum of two 12” holes for fire control.
Holes cut in hood for fire control, or exhaust may be bolted (not welded) back
together with up to eight 3/8” bolts (1” washers maximum) per hole. Hoods must
be either chained or bolted shut. Hoods may have no more than ten 3/8” bolts
(1” washer max) fastening inner/outer hood sheet metal together on hood itself.
Hood bolts or washers may not be placed as to create any reinforcement. If hood
is bolted shut: A minimum of four bolts ¾” diameter must be used. A maximum of
six bolts (with the front two 1” radiator support bolts counting towards your
six) allowed to hold your hood down. The factory hood hinges do not count as a
hood hold down. Only the front two radiator support bolts may go down through
the hood to the frame. The other four bolts, if used, must be sheet metal to
sheet metal only. No bolts to be placed in front of radiator as protection.
Washers for the topside of the hood may not exceed 5” square and 1/4” thick.
The hood “washers” may be welded to the top of the hood. 5” square “washers”
may also be welded to the inner fenders at the corners (fender to radiator
support and fender to the fire wall or cowl) below the hood. Bolts may then be
welded to these “washers” to hold the hood. 1”1/2 Angle Iron, no more than 6”
long welded to hood & fender/bolted together may be counted same as other
hood bolts. If the hood is chained shut: A minimum of four spots of 1/4” chain
must be used. A maximum of up to eight spots of 3/8” chain may be used. The use
of 5” square “washers” is allowed as above.
Fenders may be cut for a larger wheel well opening. Fenders may be bolted back
together (with no welding) with up to eight 3/8” bolts (1” diameter washers
maximum) per wheel well opening. Excess front fender in front of radiator
support may be cut, folded over, and bolted (not welded) back together. Four
3/8” bolts (1” washers) allowed per fender for this.
Doors must be chained, wired, bolted, or welded (exterior seams only) shut. You
may weld the door seams and trunk lid solid. Chain must be a minimum of 1/4”,
wire must be a minimum of two loops, bolts must be a minimum of 3/8”, and weld
must be 4” on a minimum of two spots per door seam. No chain, wire, or bolts
allowed to go to or around frame or cage. 3” wide by 1/8” strap maximum allowed
to weld over the exterior door seams.
You
may also have one loop of #9 wire per window opening sheet metal to sheet metal
no more than four wires thick.
Trunk
lids and station wagon tailgates may be chained, wired, bolted, or welded shut
the same as the doors. Any two methods are allowed to fasten the trunk lid or
tailgate. No method may go to or around the frame or rear bumper unless
specified in these rules. Trunk lid may be “tucked” down inside the trunk
compartment. Trunk lid may not be welded to the trunk floor pan. Two bolts
(maximum 1” diameter) are allowed in the trunk from the bottom of the trunk pan
up through the top of the trunk lid. These two bolts are allowed to go down
through the top side of the frame only in the rear body mount holes. The bolt
must be cut off flush with the bottom of the nut inside the frame. If the bolt
sticks down through the bottom of the frame, it will have to be cut before an
inspection will be done. If you choose not to run them through the body bolt
hole, they may welded to the outside of the frame. These bolts will have to be
welded to the side of the frame rail in a straight up and down manner. The use
of 5” washers is allowed on the trunk lid the same as the hood. These two bolts
must be cut flush with the top of the nuts. These two bolts are the only bolts
allowed to hold the trunk lid down. If you beat your speaker deck and trunk lid
down more than 2”, you must have a 12” inspection hole cut in the top of the
trunk lid or floor board.
Pre-forming or pre-bending the body sheet
metal is allowed. It may be cut to shape it, but not allowed to re-weld or bolt
back together (except for the front edge of the front fenders, wheel well
radius, and hood holes). . Station wagon tail gates may be lowered, then
chained, wired, bolted, or welded shut. No more than ten 3/8 bolts (1” washer
max) may be used to bolt inner/outer trunk lid sheet metal together. If back
bumper has been removed, Station Wagon gates maybe lowered & bolted or
welded to back bumper brackets or shocks. Tops of doors, and areas that had
moving windows, may be pinched together and welded. Weld bead only, no plates
or other material allowed. Inspectors must be able to see down into the body.
The re-welding of the doorpost or pillar, to the floor sheet metal is allowed
on both the driver side and passenger side. No added metal
The use of fabricated parts such as steering columns, fuel pedals, brake
pedals, transmission shifters, seat brackets, battery boxes, fuel tanks (10gal
max), and coolers allowed.
Seat, battery, fuel tank, and cooler brackets must be welded to, or bolted to,
the floor sheet metal. No chain, wire, or rubber type straps allowed to fasten
these items. The seat, battery, fuel tank, and coolers must be secure. Steering
column brackets and seat brackets may come in contact with, and be attached to
these bars. No bracket may extend in front of the dash bar (other than steering
column bracket). No bracket may extend past the rear of the seat bar except the
gas tank bracket and protector.
Brackets in the front seat area must be welded to, or bolted to, floor sheet
metal only. Brackets in the front seat area may not be attached to the body
mount washers. Brackets in the back seat area must be welded to, or bolted to,
the floor sheet metal only. Bolts in the back seat area may not go through, or
around, the frame or sub-frame. Brackets for the front seat area, and brackets
for the back seat area, must be completely separate.
One post or pillar is allowed in the rear window area. 2” x 2” square, or 2”
round maximum size allowed. This post or pillar must mount to the back edge of
the roof and extend down to the front edge of the original trunk lid seam on
the body. One 5” x 5” x ¼” maximum size plate allowed at the top and one plate
allowed at the bottom. These plates must be mounted to sheet metal only. This
must be ONE bar and must remain straight. No looping or making a U-shaped bar.
It’s one straight bar, or no bar.
Remove all rear “decking” in station
wagons.
Suspension
and Steering:
YOU
MAY CONVERT A WATTS LINK FORD TO A STANDARD GM REAREND IN THE FOLLOWING WAY: USE THE TRAILING ARM BRACKETS OFF AN OLDER FORD OR
METAL OF THE SAME SIZE AND THICKNESS. NO POSITIONING OF THE BRACKETS TO
STRENGTHEN THE FRONT DOWNLEG OF THE REAR HUMP. YOU MAY CUT OUT THE COIL SPRING
FRAME TRAY FROM AN EARLIER YEAR FORD AND WELD IT IN THE NEWER FORD. IF YOU
CHOOSE TO MANUFACTURE A SYSTEM FOR THE UPPER BRACKETS PLEASE CALL AHEAD. ONE
PASS ONLY, 1/2” MAXIMUM. NO STRONGER THAN STOCK. You may not replace a ford
package tray with a GM package tray, or vice versa. The package tray must be
stock for that model of vehicle.
Leaf
spring packs may not have more than 7 leafs and must have 2” stagger in the
front of the axle and the 2” in back of the axle. You may add 4 spring clamps
per side, but not all four may be on either side of the axle. This means you
may have two in front and two in rear, or one in front and three in rear. The
clamps may not be larger than 5”x2”x1/4” and may have two ½” bolts holding them
together. Front and rear factory leaf spring brackets, on Chrysler cars, may be
welded to the floor brackets, and or sub-frame brackets. No leaf springs under
non-leaf cars allowed. All shackles must be factory car shackles. No homemade
shackles. Absolutely no welding allowed anywhere on the leaf springs or clamps.
If your rearend is chained tight and down
too low, you will be made to change it. The head judge will make the final
decision on rear body height.
The interchange of front spindles, rotors,
and upper A-arms allowed (except for 2003 and newer Fords). The parts must not
be reinforced or altered and must be considered OEM car, not truck or SUV. Only
a minimum of fabrication is allowed to do this. The A-arm mounts, if needed,
may not strengthen the frame, or be stronger than what is considered stock. You
may reinforce your tie rods.
You may weld or bolt your front A-arms down to the frame. If you bolt them, you
may use one ¾” bolt on each side. If you weld them, you may have 2” of weld on
the top of the frame in front of the A-arm and 2” behind. This weld cannot be
to the vertical sides of the frame or act to strengthen the frame in any way or
will be cut. This should allow you a 2”x2” plate from the top of the frame rail
to the A-arm both front and back to weld it down.
Any rear axle assembly may be used as long as it is a factory five lug set up.
No floater-type rearends. Rear axle braces are also allowed, but must not be
any closer than 4” from the frame on fresh cars. This distance will be judged
differently on used cars. There must be at least a 2” gap on used cars minimum
from the frame rails to the axle tubes or bracing as long as the humps are
“kinked” and this small of a gap was unavoidable. If the hump has been
stretched can into original position and plated/repaired, the 4” gap is then
required. The head judge will have the final call on this gap. This measurement
is from the axle tube straight back and upwards towards the rear frame rail.
Factory rear control arms on coil sprung
cars may be lengthened or shortened. Only a minimum of reinforcing is allowed.
“Boxing” of rear control arms, allowed. Double coil springs are allowed, (one
coil spring turned inside a second coil spring). Coil springs may be wired,
welded, or cabled in on top or bottom. Only one place is allowed to hold coil
spring in. Air shock lines must be cut. You are allowed two chains or cable or
wire total (one on each side of the center section/pinion of the rear axle)
around axle housing to frame or body. May not be welded or bolted to frame or
body, but just looped around it. It must be looped AROUND the rear frame, not
bolted through the frame creating a pin. Altered or fabricated steering
columns allowed.
Tires:
We
do not want flats. No bigger than 15” rims, no spit rims, no studded tires on
driven wheels. No rim reinforcements. Wheels may have after market centers
welded in, but no larger than 6” wheel centers. No spikes, paddles, or other
material to be welded inside or to the rim. No liquid filled tires allowed. Rim
screws allowed, but only on the inside of the wheel. Implement tread, forklift
type, foam filled, urethane, solid, and double tires are allowed. Valve stem
protection is allowed. Any ply allowed.
Bumpers:
Any
car bumper allowed on any car. Bumpers may be cut. Bumpers may be chained,
bolted, or welded on. Bumpers may be welded to the brackets, and brackets may
be welded to the frame. Bumpers may be welded directly to the frame. Brackets
may be cut. Use only factory brackets. No homemade brackets will be allowed. No
bracket or shock may extend rearward more than 14 inches from the rear of
bumper mounting face. This is measured at the factory mount surface. You may
weld your bracket on the outside or run the shock inside the frame (not both)
no farther than 14” back from the bumper. All excess bracket must be cut off at
that point. All shocks inside the frame may have a ½” bolt run through it and
drilled all the way through the fame rail side to side. You may not weld the
nut or bolt to the frame. Nothing may extend back past this 14” point inside or
outside the frame. All brackets must make contact with the bumper. No extra
steel or other material allowed as a bumper bracket. You may use either the
factory brackets that came with the bumper, or you may use the factory brackets
that came with the car, not both. Bumpers may have seams welded. You may
reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper. The bumper must start stock and
may have metal put inside for reinforcement. Bumper chrome may be smashed down
and welded to inner bumper support. Bumpers may be mounted upside down. Rear
car bumpers allowed on the front. Front car bumpers allowed on the rear. Rear
bumper brackets may only be used on the rear of the car. Front bumper brackets
may only be used on the front of the car. You also may NOT take a stock bumper
and re-shape it and then load it. An example would be taking a steel Ford Crown
Victoria bumper and re-working it into a “pointy” Chrysler
look-alike. If it’s a Ford bumper, it needs to remain a Ford Bumper. Just put
your steel on the inside. No homemade bumpers allowed. Rear Bumpers, 4 chains
or 4, 2” wide straps from rear bumper to car body allowed. No more than 5” of
weld on straps on body and 5” of weld on bumpers. Bumpers must be smooth at the
edges. Front Bumpers will be allowed two plates not to exceed 2” wide x ¼
thick and 4” long. These plates are to be welded on the top of the bumper and
may extend backwards along the top of the frame. They may also be welded on the
side of the frame if you choose to. The plates must lay flat against the frame
and may be welded along the entire outside edge of the plate. This is to help
you keep your bumper on during the show. It may not act as a gusset or any
strengthening. It is to keep your bumper in place…That is it! If you would
rather, you may use #9 wire in two locations (two loops or 4 strands each) may
be used from front hood hold-down/bolts to front bumper or two 3/8” chains.
Bumper height not to exceed 24” to the bottom of the bumper from the ground and
must be a minimum of 14” from the bottom of the bumper to the ground. Bumpers
must be in stock location.
If your bumper breaks loose during the
event and is sticking out or has the potential to become a hazard, the show
will be stopped and you have a choice. If the bumper can be removed completely,
you may continue. If you choose not to take it off, you will be disqualified
for that heat and may come back into the consolation heat if eligible.
Engines:
Engines
and transmissions may be interchanged and mounts may be fabricated and welded
as long as it does not strategically reinforce the frame, A-arms, or shock
towers. No engine mounts, braces, cables, or chains may extend in front of, or
behind the engine block. If you feel the need to chain your engine or engine
cradle in, you may use one 12” chain (3/8” max) from the top motor mount or
cradle down to the to of the frame. You may weld two of the links to the top of
the frame rail, not to the vertical frame surfaces. No engine or transmission
mounting to dash bar! “K” frames in cars may be welded to the main frame rails.
1/2” filler rod maximum. No plates as filler allowed. This filler rod and weld
must not extend 4'' in front of or 4” behind engine block. No K-frames in
non-K-frame cars. AFTERMARKET ENGINE CRADLES ARE ALLOWED. PULLEY PROTECTORS
ARE ALLOWED. IF YOU USE A FRONT MOTOR PLATE, IT MAY NOT BE GUSSETTED TO THE
HEADER FLANGES OR ATTACHED IN ANY OTHER MANNER. THE DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTOR IS
AND MUST REMAIN A SEPARATE ITEM, NOT CONNECTED TO ANY OTHER COMPONENT IN ANY
MANNER. AN EXAMPLE TO THIS WOULD BE IF YOUR SWAY BAR IS CONNECTED TO THE PULLEY
PROTECTOR. THIS WILL NOT BE ALLOWED.
Compact Class Rules
All full size build rules apply to this
class unless stated otherwise below. All of the “General Rules” also apply to
this class.
Any compact car or truck is allowed to
compete in this class within the following specs: 106” maximum wheel base for
rear wheel drive cars and trucks, and 108” maximum wheel base for front wheel
drive cars.
No V8’s allowed in this class unless that
specific year and model of car or truck came from the factory with a V8. (you
better bring some documentation with you as your proof)
Leaf Springs: The same rules apply as the
full size cars except compacts are allowed 6 leafsprings instead of 7. All leaf
packs must be on the bottom of the axle and NO WELDING allowed anyplace on the
pack.
Frame and Body: No relocating the core
support or moving it.
No shortening of the front or rear frame
rails. No shortening the frame any place in order to fit a certain vehicle into
the wheelbase rule.
Sway bars may not be welded to the frame.
Trucks may weld the cab to the bed on
both sides the same as a door or trunk seam.
No adding or subtracting body mount
bolts, but trucks may run one washer for both cab body mounts on the topside
(inside the cab only). This strap washer may not be wider than 4” and may not
extend more than 4” past the body mount hole in the front and 4” in the back.
You may only have two of these washers inside the cab; one on the drivers side
and one on the passenger side.
No kickers allowed anyplace on the
vehicle.
No bars welded from the cage bars
anyplace other than what is set forth in the cage rules.
No cage bars may contact or be welded so
as to strengthen the frame, body, or sub-frame strategically (i.e. door bars
extending back to the wheel wells)
If you have any questions
about these rules, please call Will at 785-312-0585. Just because something is
not written in these rules, it does not mean that you can do it. You must call
first! I didn’t write that you could not bring a Sherman Tank, but if you show
up with it, you won’t run. Sound fair?
Rules used with permission
Copyright by Jay Armbrister 2012 ©
THESE WERE RULES USED FOR FAIR SO IM GUESSING THEY WILL BE ONES USED.......
Read more: www.kansasdemoderby.proboards.com/thread/2123/franklin-county-ottawa-kansas-july#ixzz2ZsyGsJQZ
All judge’s decisions are final. The head judge has the final say on all
derby-related matters.
No profanity allowed on the cars.
Classless behavior by you, yourself, or any of your pit members will absolutely
not be tolerated and could result in either disqualification or, in the worst
case, a criminal investigation.
No driver will be allowed to compete if
he or she is in possession of alcohol or is under the influence of alcohol in
any way shape or form.
You must make an aggressive hit on
another live car in less than one minute. If you do not make enough aggressive
hits, we will let you know. If you are making consistent hits and not
“sand-bagging”, you might be allowed more time than those who make only what is
required as a “hit” every minute.
No intentional hits of a driver’s door.
Depending on the severity of the hit, you may get a warning or you may be
disqualified. If you use your driver’s side door to “block”, do not be
surprised if the other driver is not warned or disqualified. This will be left
at the discretion of the head official.
ABSOLUTELY NO TEAM DRIVING!!! You MIGHT
get one warning for this, but most likely you will be disqualified on the spot.
During the competition, stay in your car
with your seatbelt and helmet on, unless an official tells you it’s OK to leave
your car and exit the arena.
No driver, pitmen, or spectator may
approach the officials during the competition. Once again, classless behavior
will not be tolerated.
If you are black flagged (i.e. team
driving or drivers door hit) you will finish in the place in the competition in
which you were disqualified. For example; if there are five cars remaining
after you are disqualified, you will have finished in 6th place.
Cars will submit to re-inspection after the
competition and if a car is then found to be illegal, it will be disqualified
and the rule (black-flag rule) above will not apply. Just because we “miss”
something in the initial inspection, yet we find it in the post inspection, you
will still be disqualified. Your car could possibly be cut open or drilled
during the post-race inspection. The Officials will have drills and torches at
their disposal and will use them if needed. If a car does not bend as the
officials believe it should, that car could be cut open to answer this
question. This is not what will happen to every car, but it is a possibility.
Protest fee is $200 cash and must be made
by a driver competing in the same class as the car being protested. It must be
presented to the head official along with a specific and detailed complaint.
The car in question will be re-inspected for this complaint and if it is found
to be illegal and severe enough to have affected the outcome, that car will be
disqualified and the above rule (black-flag rule) will not apply as well. If
the claim is substantiated, the protest fee will be returned. If not, it will
remain with the Promoter.
Helmets and Fire jackets will be required
this year. Long pants are required. Eye protection and gloves are also highly
recommended. Shoes/boots are required. Helmets must be DOT rated and are
required. Full-face helmets are also highly recommended.
Check-in times!!!! Read up people…
Inspections will start six hours prior to the start of the show and will end
two hours prior. This means you have to BE IN LINE for your inspection by 5pm if the show is to start at 7pm. If you show up after that, you will not be
inspected…No exceptions, and believe me when we say that we will enforce this
rule. Any inspections done after 5pm
will be re-inspections only. Emergencies and unexpected events do happen, but
you had better call the head official if you will be late for ANY reason. It
will be at his discretion whether you will be allowed to be inspected and
compete.
Overall condition of the vehicle must be safe. This applies to used or fresh
cars. If the officials deem a car unsafe to compete, it will not be allowed to
compete.
Seat belts are required and must be
functional.
All cars must be fully stripped of all flammable materials. Factory seat and
seat belts are the only things allowed to remain in the passenger compartment
of the car. All glass, chrome, plastic, rubber, pot metal and other non-steel
materials must be removed from the exterior and underside of the car. Cars must
also be free of debris and trash prior to inspection. All trailer hitches, tow
bars and other material used for towing must also be removed.
Factory fuel tanks and fuel lines must be
removed or if the lines remain, they must be blown clean of any liquids.
All vehicles must exhibit the ability to
stop. Brakes must work!
Anywhere in these rules where it says you
may weld something, that means ONE pass with the welder, not to exceed ½” wide
weld bead.
Car and driver qualify together. If the
car and driver check in together and qualify for the feature together, that
driver must drive that car in the feature.
Full
Size Car rules
1980 and newer Ford and Chrysler cars
and station wagons only.
No 2003 and newer Ford vehicle or frames
unless the stock engine cradle and suspension is used. No hearses, ambulances,
limos, vans, minivans, SUV’s, trucks, or any other vehicle considered a
“truck”.
1979 and newer GM cars will be allowed
into this class. 1977 and 78 Chevy Impalas and Caprices will also be allowed.
Used or Pre-ran cars may fix ripped, torn, bent, or twisted frames. The site in
need of repair must be obvious to the judges. Used cars will be allowed 16” of
repair plate per frame rail (4”wide x 3/16” thick). The plate may be as long as
you want, but you only have 16” total per frame rail. So you can put one 16”x4”
plate on each hump and be done or you may put two 4”x4” plates on the front and
a 8”x4” plate on the hump (per frame rail). If you don’t understand this,
please call. All excess plates and welds will be cut off or if it’s excessive,
you will not run. Any plate longer than 4” must have a ½” hole drilled in it to
prove thickness and that it is the only plate welded in that site.
Cage
Bars:
For
the driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to
doorpost and it can be in an “X” shape if desired, but may not touch, connect,
or be welded to the frame. It also must be no more than 6” away from the back
of the driver’s seat. You may also weld in a “dash bar” where the factory
dashboard was located. You are only allowed ONE dash bar! This bar must be at
minimum 6” away from any other sheet metal on the firewall or any engine
component or distributor protector before the show. You may also weld door bars
vertically from the dash bar to the bar between the doorposts along the inside
of both the drivers and passenger side doors. These bars may not be longer than
60”, so your seat bar must be within the length of this bar. You may also weld
in four down bars from the bars along the doors down to the floor pan or top of
the frame rail to protect the drivers feet/legs or a battery if it’s located on
the passenger floorboard. These down bars must be within the door seams and
must be straight up and down, not angled. If you run a halo bar in the back,
this may go to the floor sheet metal/frame and will count as your two back down
bars. These bars cannot be connected to any body bolt or body bolt washer and
must be at least 4” away from any body bolt or washer. None of the bars listed
may be larger than 8” in diameter except the down bars and they may not be
wider than 6”.
Halo or Roll Bars:
You
may weld a roll bar to the bar behind the drivers seat, but this bar must be
placed in the car vertically. It may be welded to the the rear driver’s cage bar.
There may be three bolts through the top crossover bar through the roof sheet
metal. It may not be welded to the roof. If you have your halo bar welded to
the top of the frame, this counts as your two rear “down bars” as stated above.
Drivers
Door:
Please
reinforce your drivers door very good. You will in all likelihood take at least
one shot in the door, so make it safe! The drivers door must be welded shut for
safety. You may weld both the inner and outer door seams solid. We also
recommend that you reinforce the door skin. You may weld a plate across the
door, but it may not extend more than 6” past the front and rear door seem. You
may also place a pipe inside the drivers door, but it also cannot extend more
then 6” past the front and rear door seem. No grader blades allowed on the
outside of the door.
Windshield
Bars:
A
minimum of two steel straps or bars (not to exceed 2”) must be located in the
windshield area. They may be welded or bolted into place. If welded, they may
have only 6” of weld total at the top and 6” of weld at the bottom and must
attach to sheet metal only. They may not be connected or welded to the hood.
They may not act to strategically strengthen the car or they will have to be
cut/altered as the officials see fit.
Battery:
Must
be re-located to the interior of the passenger compartment and we recommend the
passenger side floor board. The battery or batteries must be in a solid
container and covered. They also must be securely attached to the floorboard of
the vehicle or cage, not to the frame in any way.
Gas
Tanks and Gas Tank Protectors:
No
plastic gas cans unless it is a plastic or urethane “fuel cell”, in which case
it must be placed inside a metal container. Steel boat tanks are recommended.
10 gallon maximum for any gas tank. Gas tanks must be securely fastened inside
the passenger compartment and in the rear seat area. They must be fastened to
the floor, rear seat area, or rear cage bar. You will be allowed a gas tank
protector that may extend backwards from the rear cage bar towards the rear
seat area. It may not be larger than 24”x6” at the back and must be at least 1”
away from the sheet metal/package tray on fresh cars. Rear seat sheet metal may
not be beat back or moved. We must be able to run our hand between the rear
seat sheet meal and the gas tank protector. The bars may run straight back or
angle in, but the rear bar may be no wider than 24” and none of this apparatus
may touch any sheet metal or the frame in any way. If it is excessive and the
judges deem that this apparatus will be or become an advantage to the car, it
will not be allowed. We want this to actually protect the gas tank and that is
it! The gas tank itself also may not act as any sort of reinforcement. The
tank, if homemade, may not be wider than 24”.
If you have modified your upper or lower
control arm brackets to fit your rearend, and these new brackets will act to
strengthen the frame along with your gas tank protector, you will have to cut
your gas tank protector.
Oil
and Transmission Coolers:
Engine
Oil and Transmission Oil coolers are allowed. You must use high pressure
hydraulic lines and fittings.
Frame and Body Mounts:
On
the 1979 and newer GM cars, you may weld one plate on the outside only of the
rear humps over the rear end. This plate may not exceed 6” wide, 22” long, and
¼” thick. There also must be three ½” holes drilled in these plates to prove
the thickness. You must also follow the frame rails with these plates. If you
have a used GM car, the above repair plate rule will still apply and this plate
will not count as your repair plates, but you will only be allowed 12”x4” of
plate to use to make your repairs.
No frame/body swaps with older cars. No
added metal to the car or body is allowed other than what is set forth in the
rules to follow. Plain and simple, nothing is to be added to the inside or
outside of the frame other than what is allowed. Absolutely no painting, undercoating, grease, “silicone
and dirt tricks” on the frame. There is also absolutely no reason for there to
be any metal located INSIDE the frame. Any attempt to obscure the frame holes
to hinder the inspection of the inside of the frame will be considered grounds
for disqualification. Scopes will be used!
As for the re-shaping of the stock frame,
this is ONLY what will be allowed. You may re-shape the frame from the rear
humps backwards towards the rear bumper. This means where the frame begins to
turn upward just behind the lower trailing arms mounts and rear seat back body
bolt, you may re-shape your frame. This may include beating the sides in or
“squaring” the edges.
You may re-weld the top and bottom
factory frame seams from the cross-member forward (unless you have moved your
cross member back, this will be allowed from where the factory cross-member was
located. ½” wide weld bead maximum. Vertical pinch welds on Chrysler cars may
be folded and welded. This will allow you to properly weld any factory seam
welds, and tilt or “pitch” your frame.
You may repair rust, but read carefully.
If the car is fresh, the rust must be cut out and the patch must fit inside the
hole cut out. The plate may not overlap and MUST be the same thickness as the
original frame metal. There must be a ½” hole drilled in this frame repair
plate to prove its thickness.
Cutting and/or pre-notching of the frame
is allowed, but you may not re-weld the frame rails where it is notched or cut.
No adding or subtracting body mounts. You
may not move any body mounts either as to shorten the frame rail. If you move a
body mount hole and your car cannot be made right, you will not run. Chrysler
suf-frame cars may add two additional body bolts (one per side) in the rear
seat/trunk area. These bolts may not be larger than ½” diameter and must use
regular ½” washers. If you try to use a larger washer, you will have to remove
it all together and you will not be allowed to replace it. These two bolts may
to through the floor sheet metal down through the bottom of the sub-frame.
Body mount bolts may be replaced with up
to ¾” bolts. There must be at least a 1” space between the body and frame.
Rubber bushings may be replaced with other spacers, but must be at least 1”
thick and the same diameter as the original bushing. Spacers may be welded to
the body, but not the frame. You may use original rubber body “pucks”, but you
must leave the metal inserts in to maintain the 1” spacing. Do not devise a way
to suck the body down tight to the frame. Maximum 5” body mount washers allowed
on the top of the body bolts inside the passenger compartment and trunk. Sub-frame
cars may have washers up to 2” larger than the factory body mount hole (for
example: if the hole is 4”, the use of an 8” washer is permitted). These
washers may not be welded to the floor pans or trunk floor. Washers inside the
frame must be in stock location and may be 2” larger than the original frame
hole. Chrysler K-frame cars can remove the rubber spacers between the frame and
the K-member and bolt them up tight. Bolts may be replaced with up to ¾”
diameter bolts.
Radiator support (or commonly called the
Core Support) must remain in stock location. The radiator support mount
bushings may be removed completely. The radiator support may contact the frame
but must not be welded to it. The two radiator mount bolts may be up to
1”diameter. These two bolts may be welded to the frame. These two bolts may
extend straight down through to the bottom side of the frame. No angling back
to “A” frames to form a “kicker”. These two bolts may extend up next to the
radiator support, through to the top of the hood, and be used as two hood hold
down bolts.
These
two bolts may be welded to the radiator support. These two bolts may be welded
to the frame if they do not go down through the frame. Thicker (taller) than
stock spacers are allowed between the radiator support and the frame. Spacers
may be welded to frame or the support, not both. No bolts allowed in front of
radiator.
#9 Wire (four loops maximum) or cable
(one loop of 3/8”) from driver side frame rail, across to the passenger side
frame rail, is allowed. If used, it must be located above and behind the rear
axle housing. No welding.
You are allowed 2 spots of #9 wire, no more than four wires thick, from roof
sheet metal only to frame. You may weld in a standard ¾” washer on the roof
sheet metal to keep the wire from ripping the metal.
You must run the transmission cross
member in the stock location. You can weld 2” angle iron no thicker than 3/16”,
and no longer than 6” to the side of the frame to support the cross member. If
you pre-bend your frame, you may not use this angle iron to reinforce your
bend. The transmission cross member is the only way a transmission may be tied
in. Do not attach transmission to dash bar or any other point that is not the
cross member. You must use a factory made car cross member. No homemade cross
members.
Body: Bodies must remain stock. No re-welding of factory seams inside the
engine compartment, inside the passenger compartment, inside the trunk
compartment, on the underside of the body, under the hood or trunk lid. No added
bolts or screws to any body seams. No added metal anywhere on the body of the
car because of “rust”. If the body is rusty, we must be able to see the rusted
areas that have been fixed. Bodies will be drilled or cut open for inspection
if needed as determined by the officials.
Hoods must open for inspection. Hoods
must remain in the stock location and position. Bending down, or bending up,
excess hood in front of radiator support allowed. Other than that bend, hoods
must remain flat. Hoods must have a minimum of two 12” holes for fire control.
Holes cut in hood for fire control, or exhaust may be bolted (not welded) back
together with up to eight 3/8” bolts (1” washers maximum) per hole. Hoods must
be either chained or bolted shut. Hoods may have no more than ten 3/8” bolts
(1” washer max) fastening inner/outer hood sheet metal together on hood itself.
Hood bolts or washers may not be placed as to create any reinforcement. If hood
is bolted shut: A minimum of four bolts ¾” diameter must be used. A maximum of
six bolts (with the front two 1” radiator support bolts counting towards your
six) allowed to hold your hood down. The factory hood hinges do not count as a
hood hold down. Only the front two radiator support bolts may go down through
the hood to the frame. The other four bolts, if used, must be sheet metal to
sheet metal only. No bolts to be placed in front of radiator as protection.
Washers for the topside of the hood may not exceed 5” square and 1/4” thick.
The hood “washers” may be welded to the top of the hood. 5” square “washers”
may also be welded to the inner fenders at the corners (fender to radiator
support and fender to the fire wall or cowl) below the hood. Bolts may then be
welded to these “washers” to hold the hood. 1”1/2 Angle Iron, no more than 6”
long welded to hood & fender/bolted together may be counted same as other
hood bolts. If the hood is chained shut: A minimum of four spots of 1/4” chain
must be used. A maximum of up to eight spots of 3/8” chain may be used. The use
of 5” square “washers” is allowed as above.
Fenders may be cut for a larger wheel well opening. Fenders may be bolted back
together (with no welding) with up to eight 3/8” bolts (1” diameter washers
maximum) per wheel well opening. Excess front fender in front of radiator
support may be cut, folded over, and bolted (not welded) back together. Four
3/8” bolts (1” washers) allowed per fender for this.
Doors must be chained, wired, bolted, or welded (exterior seams only) shut. You
may weld the door seams and trunk lid solid. Chain must be a minimum of 1/4”,
wire must be a minimum of two loops, bolts must be a minimum of 3/8”, and weld
must be 4” on a minimum of two spots per door seam. No chain, wire, or bolts
allowed to go to or around frame or cage. 3” wide by 1/8” strap maximum allowed
to weld over the exterior door seams.
You
may also have one loop of #9 wire per window opening sheet metal to sheet metal
no more than four wires thick.
Trunk
lids and station wagon tailgates may be chained, wired, bolted, or welded shut
the same as the doors. Any two methods are allowed to fasten the trunk lid or
tailgate. No method may go to or around the frame or rear bumper unless
specified in these rules. Trunk lid may be “tucked” down inside the trunk
compartment. Trunk lid may not be welded to the trunk floor pan. Two bolts
(maximum 1” diameter) are allowed in the trunk from the bottom of the trunk pan
up through the top of the trunk lid. These two bolts are allowed to go down
through the top side of the frame only in the rear body mount holes. The bolt
must be cut off flush with the bottom of the nut inside the frame. If the bolt
sticks down through the bottom of the frame, it will have to be cut before an
inspection will be done. If you choose not to run them through the body bolt
hole, they may welded to the outside of the frame. These bolts will have to be
welded to the side of the frame rail in a straight up and down manner. The use
of 5” washers is allowed on the trunk lid the same as the hood. These two bolts
must be cut flush with the top of the nuts. These two bolts are the only bolts
allowed to hold the trunk lid down. If you beat your speaker deck and trunk lid
down more than 2”, you must have a 12” inspection hole cut in the top of the
trunk lid or floor board.
Pre-forming or pre-bending the body sheet
metal is allowed. It may be cut to shape it, but not allowed to re-weld or bolt
back together (except for the front edge of the front fenders, wheel well
radius, and hood holes). . Station wagon tail gates may be lowered, then
chained, wired, bolted, or welded shut. No more than ten 3/8 bolts (1” washer
max) may be used to bolt inner/outer trunk lid sheet metal together. If back
bumper has been removed, Station Wagon gates maybe lowered & bolted or
welded to back bumper brackets or shocks. Tops of doors, and areas that had
moving windows, may be pinched together and welded. Weld bead only, no plates
or other material allowed. Inspectors must be able to see down into the body.
The re-welding of the doorpost or pillar, to the floor sheet metal is allowed
on both the driver side and passenger side. No added metal
The use of fabricated parts such as steering columns, fuel pedals, brake
pedals, transmission shifters, seat brackets, battery boxes, fuel tanks (10gal
max), and coolers allowed.
Seat, battery, fuel tank, and cooler brackets must be welded to, or bolted to,
the floor sheet metal. No chain, wire, or rubber type straps allowed to fasten
these items. The seat, battery, fuel tank, and coolers must be secure. Steering
column brackets and seat brackets may come in contact with, and be attached to
these bars. No bracket may extend in front of the dash bar (other than steering
column bracket). No bracket may extend past the rear of the seat bar except the
gas tank bracket and protector.
Brackets in the front seat area must be welded to, or bolted to, floor sheet
metal only. Brackets in the front seat area may not be attached to the body
mount washers. Brackets in the back seat area must be welded to, or bolted to,
the floor sheet metal only. Bolts in the back seat area may not go through, or
around, the frame or sub-frame. Brackets for the front seat area, and brackets
for the back seat area, must be completely separate.
One post or pillar is allowed in the rear window area. 2” x 2” square, or 2”
round maximum size allowed. This post or pillar must mount to the back edge of
the roof and extend down to the front edge of the original trunk lid seam on
the body. One 5” x 5” x ¼” maximum size plate allowed at the top and one plate
allowed at the bottom. These plates must be mounted to sheet metal only. This
must be ONE bar and must remain straight. No looping or making a U-shaped bar.
It’s one straight bar, or no bar.
Remove all rear “decking” in station
wagons.
Suspension
and Steering:
YOU
MAY CONVERT A WATTS LINK FORD TO A STANDARD GM REAREND IN THE FOLLOWING WAY: USE THE TRAILING ARM BRACKETS OFF AN OLDER FORD OR
METAL OF THE SAME SIZE AND THICKNESS. NO POSITIONING OF THE BRACKETS TO
STRENGTHEN THE FRONT DOWNLEG OF THE REAR HUMP. YOU MAY CUT OUT THE COIL SPRING
FRAME TRAY FROM AN EARLIER YEAR FORD AND WELD IT IN THE NEWER FORD. IF YOU
CHOOSE TO MANUFACTURE A SYSTEM FOR THE UPPER BRACKETS PLEASE CALL AHEAD. ONE
PASS ONLY, 1/2” MAXIMUM. NO STRONGER THAN STOCK. You may not replace a ford
package tray with a GM package tray, or vice versa. The package tray must be
stock for that model of vehicle.
Leaf
spring packs may not have more than 7 leafs and must have 2” stagger in the
front of the axle and the 2” in back of the axle. You may add 4 spring clamps
per side, but not all four may be on either side of the axle. This means you
may have two in front and two in rear, or one in front and three in rear. The
clamps may not be larger than 5”x2”x1/4” and may have two ½” bolts holding them
together. Front and rear factory leaf spring brackets, on Chrysler cars, may be
welded to the floor brackets, and or sub-frame brackets. No leaf springs under
non-leaf cars allowed. All shackles must be factory car shackles. No homemade
shackles. Absolutely no welding allowed anywhere on the leaf springs or clamps.
If your rearend is chained tight and down
too low, you will be made to change it. The head judge will make the final
decision on rear body height.
The interchange of front spindles, rotors,
and upper A-arms allowed (except for 2003 and newer Fords). The parts must not
be reinforced or altered and must be considered OEM car, not truck or SUV. Only
a minimum of fabrication is allowed to do this. The A-arm mounts, if needed,
may not strengthen the frame, or be stronger than what is considered stock. You
may reinforce your tie rods.
You may weld or bolt your front A-arms down to the frame. If you bolt them, you
may use one ¾” bolt on each side. If you weld them, you may have 2” of weld on
the top of the frame in front of the A-arm and 2” behind. This weld cannot be
to the vertical sides of the frame or act to strengthen the frame in any way or
will be cut. This should allow you a 2”x2” plate from the top of the frame rail
to the A-arm both front and back to weld it down.
Any rear axle assembly may be used as long as it is a factory five lug set up.
No floater-type rearends. Rear axle braces are also allowed, but must not be
any closer than 4” from the frame on fresh cars. This distance will be judged
differently on used cars. There must be at least a 2” gap on used cars minimum
from the frame rails to the axle tubes or bracing as long as the humps are
“kinked” and this small of a gap was unavoidable. If the hump has been
stretched can into original position and plated/repaired, the 4” gap is then
required. The head judge will have the final call on this gap. This measurement
is from the axle tube straight back and upwards towards the rear frame rail.
Factory rear control arms on coil sprung
cars may be lengthened or shortened. Only a minimum of reinforcing is allowed.
“Boxing” of rear control arms, allowed. Double coil springs are allowed, (one
coil spring turned inside a second coil spring). Coil springs may be wired,
welded, or cabled in on top or bottom. Only one place is allowed to hold coil
spring in. Air shock lines must be cut. You are allowed two chains or cable or
wire total (one on each side of the center section/pinion of the rear axle)
around axle housing to frame or body. May not be welded or bolted to frame or
body, but just looped around it. It must be looped AROUND the rear frame, not
bolted through the frame creating a pin. Altered or fabricated steering
columns allowed.
Tires:
We
do not want flats. No bigger than 15” rims, no spit rims, no studded tires on
driven wheels. No rim reinforcements. Wheels may have after market centers
welded in, but no larger than 6” wheel centers. No spikes, paddles, or other
material to be welded inside or to the rim. No liquid filled tires allowed. Rim
screws allowed, but only on the inside of the wheel. Implement tread, forklift
type, foam filled, urethane, solid, and double tires are allowed. Valve stem
protection is allowed. Any ply allowed.
Bumpers:
Any
car bumper allowed on any car. Bumpers may be cut. Bumpers may be chained,
bolted, or welded on. Bumpers may be welded to the brackets, and brackets may
be welded to the frame. Bumpers may be welded directly to the frame. Brackets
may be cut. Use only factory brackets. No homemade brackets will be allowed. No
bracket or shock may extend rearward more than 14 inches from the rear of
bumper mounting face. This is measured at the factory mount surface. You may
weld your bracket on the outside or run the shock inside the frame (not both)
no farther than 14” back from the bumper. All excess bracket must be cut off at
that point. All shocks inside the frame may have a ½” bolt run through it and
drilled all the way through the fame rail side to side. You may not weld the
nut or bolt to the frame. Nothing may extend back past this 14” point inside or
outside the frame. All brackets must make contact with the bumper. No extra
steel or other material allowed as a bumper bracket. You may use either the
factory brackets that came with the bumper, or you may use the factory brackets
that came with the car, not both. Bumpers may have seams welded. You may
reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper. The bumper must start stock and
may have metal put inside for reinforcement. Bumper chrome may be smashed down
and welded to inner bumper support. Bumpers may be mounted upside down. Rear
car bumpers allowed on the front. Front car bumpers allowed on the rear. Rear
bumper brackets may only be used on the rear of the car. Front bumper brackets
may only be used on the front of the car. You also may NOT take a stock bumper
and re-shape it and then load it. An example would be taking a steel Ford Crown
Victoria bumper and re-working it into a “pointy” Chrysler
look-alike. If it’s a Ford bumper, it needs to remain a Ford Bumper. Just put
your steel on the inside. No homemade bumpers allowed. Rear Bumpers, 4 chains
or 4, 2” wide straps from rear bumper to car body allowed. No more than 5” of
weld on straps on body and 5” of weld on bumpers. Bumpers must be smooth at the
edges. Front Bumpers will be allowed two plates not to exceed 2” wide x ¼
thick and 4” long. These plates are to be welded on the top of the bumper and
may extend backwards along the top of the frame. They may also be welded on the
side of the frame if you choose to. The plates must lay flat against the frame
and may be welded along the entire outside edge of the plate. This is to help
you keep your bumper on during the show. It may not act as a gusset or any
strengthening. It is to keep your bumper in place…That is it! If you would
rather, you may use #9 wire in two locations (two loops or 4 strands each) may
be used from front hood hold-down/bolts to front bumper or two 3/8” chains.
Bumper height not to exceed 24” to the bottom of the bumper from the ground and
must be a minimum of 14” from the bottom of the bumper to the ground. Bumpers
must be in stock location.
If your bumper breaks loose during the
event and is sticking out or has the potential to become a hazard, the show
will be stopped and you have a choice. If the bumper can be removed completely,
you may continue. If you choose not to take it off, you will be disqualified
for that heat and may come back into the consolation heat if eligible.
Engines:
Engines
and transmissions may be interchanged and mounts may be fabricated and welded
as long as it does not strategically reinforce the frame, A-arms, or shock
towers. No engine mounts, braces, cables, or chains may extend in front of, or
behind the engine block. If you feel the need to chain your engine or engine
cradle in, you may use one 12” chain (3/8” max) from the top motor mount or
cradle down to the to of the frame. You may weld two of the links to the top of
the frame rail, not to the vertical frame surfaces. No engine or transmission
mounting to dash bar! “K” frames in cars may be welded to the main frame rails.
1/2” filler rod maximum. No plates as filler allowed. This filler rod and weld
must not extend 4'' in front of or 4” behind engine block. No K-frames in
non-K-frame cars. AFTERMARKET ENGINE CRADLES ARE ALLOWED. PULLEY PROTECTORS
ARE ALLOWED. IF YOU USE A FRONT MOTOR PLATE, IT MAY NOT BE GUSSETTED TO THE
HEADER FLANGES OR ATTACHED IN ANY OTHER MANNER. THE DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTOR IS
AND MUST REMAIN A SEPARATE ITEM, NOT CONNECTED TO ANY OTHER COMPONENT IN ANY
MANNER. AN EXAMPLE TO THIS WOULD BE IF YOUR SWAY BAR IS CONNECTED TO THE PULLEY
PROTECTOR. THIS WILL NOT BE ALLOWED.
Compact Class Rules
All full size build rules apply to this
class unless stated otherwise below. All of the “General Rules” also apply to
this class.
Any compact car or truck is allowed to
compete in this class within the following specs: 106” maximum wheel base for
rear wheel drive cars and trucks, and 108” maximum wheel base for front wheel
drive cars.
No V8’s allowed in this class unless that
specific year and model of car or truck came from the factory with a V8. (you
better bring some documentation with you as your proof)
Leaf Springs: The same rules apply as the
full size cars except compacts are allowed 6 leafsprings instead of 7. All leaf
packs must be on the bottom of the axle and NO WELDING allowed anyplace on the
pack.
Frame and Body: No relocating the core
support or moving it.
No shortening of the front or rear frame
rails. No shortening the frame any place in order to fit a certain vehicle into
the wheelbase rule.
Sway bars may not be welded to the frame.
Trucks may weld the cab to the bed on
both sides the same as a door or trunk seam.
No adding or subtracting body mount
bolts, but trucks may run one washer for both cab body mounts on the topside
(inside the cab only). This strap washer may not be wider than 4” and may not
extend more than 4” past the body mount hole in the front and 4” in the back.
You may only have two of these washers inside the cab; one on the drivers side
and one on the passenger side.
No kickers allowed anyplace on the
vehicle.
No bars welded from the cage bars
anyplace other than what is set forth in the cage rules.
No cage bars may contact or be welded so
as to strengthen the frame, body, or sub-frame strategically (i.e. door bars
extending back to the wheel wells)
If you have any questions
about these rules, please call Will at 785-312-0585. Just because something is
not written in these rules, it does not mean that you can do it. You must call
first! I didn’t write that you could not bring a Sherman Tank, but if you show
up with it, you won’t run. Sound fair?
Rules used with permission
Copyright by Jay Armbrister 2012 ©
THESE WERE RULES USED FOR FAIR SO IM GUESSING THEY WILL BE ONES USED.......
Read more: www.kansasdemoderby.proboards.com/thread/2123/franklin-county-ottawa-kansas-july#ixzz2ZsyGsJQZ