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Post by cutit on Jan 24, 2014 14:55:47 GMT -5
Cut It Promotions -Luke Lang 785-766-5062
General Rules All judge’s decisions are final. The head judge has the final say on all derby-related matters.
No profanity allowed on the cars. Classless behavior by you or any of your pit members will absolutely not be tolerated and could result in either disqualification or, in the worst case, a criminal investigation.
No driver will be allowed to compete if he or she is in possession of alcohol or is under the influence of alcohol in any way shape or form.
You must make an aggressive hit on another live car in less than one minute. If you do not make enough aggressive hits, we will let you know. If you are making consistent hits and not “sand-bagging”, you might be allowed more time than those who make only what is required as a “hit” every minute.
No intentional hits of a driver’s door. Depending on the severity of the hit, you may get a warning or you may be disqualified. If you use your driver’s side door to “block”, do not be surprised if the other driver is not warned or disqualified. This will be left at the discretion of the head official.
ABSOLUTELY NO TEAM DRIVING!!! You MIGHT get one warning for this, but most likely you will be disqualified on the spot.
During the competition, stay in your car with your seatbelt and helmet on, unless an official tells you it’s OK to leave your car and exit the arena.
No driver, pitmen, or spectator may approach the officials during the competition. Once again, classless behavior will not be tolerated.
If you are black flagged (i.e. team driving or drivers door hit) you will finish in the place in the competition in which you were disqualified. For example; if there are five cars remaining after you are disqualified, you will have finished in 6th place.
Cars will submit to re-inspection after the competition and if a car is then found to be illegal, it will be disqualified and the rule (black-flag rule) above will not apply. Just because we “miss” something in the initial inspection, yet we find it in the post inspection, you will still be disqualified. Your car could possibly be cut open or drilled during the post-race inspection. The Officials will have drills and torches at their disposal and will use them if needed. If a car does not bend as the officials believe it should, that car could be cut open to answer this question. This is not what will happen to every car, but it is a possibility. Judges will also predrill cars before the show judges have any questions.
Protest fee is $200 cash and must be made by a driver competing in the same class as the car being protested. It must be presented to the head official along with a specific and detailed complaint. The car in question will be re-inspected for this complaint and if it is found to be illegal and severe enough to have affected the outcome, that car will be disqualified and the above rule (black-flag rule) will not apply as well. If the claim is substantiated, the protest fee will be returned. If not, it will remain with the Promoter.
Helmets and Fire jackets will be required this year. Long pants are required. Eye protection and gloves are also highly recommended. Shoes/boots are required. Helmets must be DOT rated and are required. Full-face helmets are also highly recommended.
Check-in times!!!! Read up people… Inspections will start six hours prior to the start of the show and will end two hours prior. This means you have to BE IN LINE for your inspection by 5pm if the show is to start at 7pm. If you show up after that, you will not be inspected…No exceptions, and believe me when we say that we will enforce this rule. Any inspections done after 5pm will be re-inspections only. Emergencies and unexpected events do happen, but you had better call the head official if you will be late for ANY reason. It will be at his discretion whether you will be allowed to be inspected and compete. Overall condition of the vehicle must be safe. This applies to used or fresh cars. If the officials deem a car unsafe to compete, it will not be allowed to compete.
Seat belts are required and must be functional.
All cars must be fully stripped of all flammable materials. Factory seat and seat belts are the only things allowed to remain in the passenger compartment of the car. All glass, chrome, plastic, rubber, pot metal and other non-steel materials must be removed from the exterior and underside of the car. Cars must also be free of debris and trash prior to inspection. All trailer hitches, tow bars and other material used for towing must also be removed.
Factory fuel tanks and fuel lines must be removed or if the lines remain, they must be blown clean of any liquids.
All vehicles must exhibit the ability to stop. Brakes must work!
Anywhere in these rules where it says you may weld something, that means ONE pass with the welder, not to exceed ½” wide weld bead.
Car and driver qualify together. If the car and driver check in together and qualify for the feature together, that driver must drive that car in the feature.
Full Size Car rules Any American make car can run with the following exceptions. No 2003 and newer Ford vehicle or frames unless the stock engine cradle and suspension is used, must be a clean conversion or 1 pass weld; or bolt in cradle set up. No 1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Imperial sub-frames, 4x4’s, ambulance, hearses, trucks, limousines, etc…
Frame Plates: Both fresh and used cars will be allowed 16” of plate per frame rail (4”wide x 3/16” thick). These plates will be in addition to the front bumper bracket plate and the GM hump plate. The plate may be as long as you want, but you only have 16” total per frame rail. So you can put one 16”x4” plate on each hump and be done or you may put two 4”x4” plates on the front and a 8”x4” plate on the hump (per frame rail). If you don’t understand this, please call. All excess plates and welds will be cut off or if it’s excessive, you will not run. Any plate longer than 4” must have a ½” hole drilled in it to prove thickness and that it is the only plate welded in that site. Just to be clear here. You may have the front bumper bracket plate plus 16” of plate per frame rail and GM cars may have the additional hump plate on top of these as well. These plates also not be broken up to the equivalent “square inches” worth of plate. Every plate will be measured along its longest side and that number will be subtracted from the 16” allowed.
Cage Bars: For the driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost and it can be in an “X” shape if desired, but may not touch, connect, or be welded to the frame. It also must be no more than 6” away from the back of the driver’s seat. You may also weld in a “dash bar” where the factory dashboard was located. You are only allowed ONE dash bar! This bar must be at minimum 6” away from the distributor protector before the show (minimum spacing on used cars must be 3” if the car is nosed up and the head official can see that). If you run a distributor protector, you must cut your firewall out between it and the dash bar. There must be at least a 4” hole all the way through the firewall directly behind the distributor. To be clear; there must be a 4” hole between the distributor protector and the dash bar. I need to be able to see your dash bar from the engine compartment.
You may also weld door bars vertically from the dash bar to the bar between the doorposts along the inside of both the drivers and passenger side doors. These bars may not be longer than 60”, so your seat bar must be within the length of this bar. You may also weld in four down bars from the bars along the doors down to the floor pan or top of the frame rail to protect the drivers feet/legs or a battery if it’s located on the passenger floorboard. These down bars must be within the door seams and must be straight up and down, not angled. If you run a halo bar in the back, this may go to the floor sheet metal/frame and will count as your two back down bars. These bars cannot be connected to any body bolt or body bolt washer and must be at least 4” away from any body bolt or washer. None of the bars listed may be larger than 8” in diameter except the down bars and they may not be wider than 6”. Halo or Roll Bars: You MUST have a roll bar and it may be welded to the bar behind the drivers seat, but this bar must be placed in the car vertically. It may be welded to the rear driver’s cage bar. There may be three bolts through the top crossover bar through the roof sheet metal. It may not be welded to the roof. If you have your halo bar welded to the top of the frame, this counts as your two rear “down bars” as stated above.
Drivers Door: Please reinforce your driver’s door very good. You will in all likelihood take at least one shot in the door, so make it safe! The driver’s door must be welded shut for safety. You may weld both the inner and outer door seams solid. We also recommend that you reinforce the door skin. You may weld a plate across the door, but it may not extend more than 6” past the front and rear door seem. You may also place a pipe inside the driver’s door, but it also cannot extend more then 6” past the front and rear door seem. No grader blades allowed on the outside of the door.
Windshield Bars: A minimum of two steel straps or bars (not to exceed 2”) must be located in the windshield area. They may be welded or bolted into place. If welded, they may have only 6” of weld total at the top and 6” of weld at the bottom and must attach to sheet metal only. They may not be connected or welded to the hood. They may not act to strategically strengthen the car or they will have to be cut/altered as the officials see fit.
Battery: Must be re-located to the interior of the passenger compartment and we recommend the passenger side floor board. The battery or batteries must be in a solid container and covered. They also must be securely attached to the floorboard of the vehicle or cage, not to the frame in any way. No using the battery box or brackets to strengthen the frame in any way or go from front sub-frame to the back sub-frame on sub-frame cars.
Drivers Seat: Drivers seat must be secure and have a working seat belt. This seat may be welded or bolted to the floor sheet metal, but may not strengthen the frame in any way nor may any brackets built that hold the seat in strengthen the frame or sub-frames.
Gas Tanks and Gas Tank Protectors: No plastic gas cans unless it is a plastic or urethane “fuel cell”, in which case it must be placed inside a metal container. Steel boat tanks are recommended. 10 gallon maximum for any gas tank. Gas tanks must be securely fastened inside the passenger compartment and in the rear seat area. They must be fastened to the floor, rear seat area, or rear cage bar. You will be allowed a gas tank protector that may extend backwards from the rear cage bar towards the rear seat area. It may not be larger than 24”x6” at the back and must be at least 1” away from the sheet metal/package tray on fresh cars. Rear seat sheet metal may not be beat back or moved. We must be able to run our hand between the rear seat sheet meal and the gas tank protector. The bars may run straight back or angle in, but the rear bar may be no wider than 24” and none of this apparatus may touch any sheet metal or the frame in any way. If it is excessive and the judges deem that this apparatus will be or become an advantage to the car, it will not be allowed. We want this to actually protect the gas tank and that is it! The gas tank itself also may not act as any sort of reinforcement. The tank, if homemade, may not be wider than 24”.
If you have modified your upper or lower control arm brackets to fit your rearend, and these new brackets will act to strengthen the frame along with your gas tank protector, you will have to cut your gas tank protector.
Oil and Transmission Coolers: Engine Oil and Transmission Oil coolers are allowed. You must use high pressure hydraulic lines and fittings.
Frame and Body Mounts: On the 1979 and newer GM cars, you may weld one plate on the outside only of the rear humps over the rear end. This plate may not exceed 6” wide, 22” long, and ¼” thick. There also must be three ½” holes drilled in these plates to prove the thickness. You must also follow the frame rails with these plates. If you have a used GM car, the above repair plate rule will still apply and this plate will not count as your repair plates, but you will only be allowed 12”x4” of plate to use to make your repairs.
No frame/body swaps with older cars. No added metal to the car or body is allowed other than what is set forth in the rules to follow. Plain and simple, nothing is to be added to the inside or outside of the frame other than what is allowed. Absolutely no painting, undercoating, grease, “silicone and dirt tricks” on the frame. There is also absolutely no reason for there to be any metal located INSIDE the frame. Any attempt to obscure the frame holes to hinder the inspection of the inside of the frame will be considered grounds for disqualification. Scopes will be used!
As for the re-shaping of the stock frame, this is ONLY what will be allowed. You may re-shape the frame from the rear humps backwards towards the rear bumper. This means where the frame begins to turn upward just behind the lower trailing arms mounts and rear seat back body bolt, you may re-shape your frame. This may include beating the sides in or “squaring” the edges.
You may re-weld the top and bottom factory frame seams from the cross-member forward (unless you have moved your cross member back, this will be allowed from where the factory cross-member was located. ½” wide weld bead maximum. Vertical pinch welds on Chrysler cars may be folded and welded. This will allow you to properly weld any factory seam welds, and tilt or “pitch” your frame. Notice this rule says “frame seams”. You may not weld any or all body seams unless they are where the subframe meets the body.
You may repair rust, but read carefully. If the car is fresh, the rust must be cut out and the patch must fit inside the hole cut out. The plate may not overlap and MUST be the same thickness as the original frame metal. There must be a ½” hole drilled in this frame repair plate to prove its thickness.
Cutting and/or pre-notching of the frame is allowed, but you may not re-weld the frame rails where it is notched or cut.
No adding or subtracting body mounts. You may not move any body mounts either as to shorten the frame rail. If you move a body mount hole and your car cannot be made right, you will not run. Chrysler suf-frame cars may add two additional body bolts (one per side) in the rear seat/trunk area. These bolts may not be larger than ½” diameter and must use regular ½” washers. If you try to use a larger washer, you will have to remove it all together and you will not be allowed to replace it. These two bolts may to through the floor sheet metal down through the bottom of the sub-frame.
Body mount bolts may be replaced with up to ¾” bolts. There must be at least a 1” space between the body and frame. Rubber bushings may be replaced with other spacers, but must be at least 1” thick and the same diameter as the original bushing. Spacers may be welded to the body, but not the frame. You may use original rubber body “pucks”, but you must leave the metal inserts in to maintain the 1” spacing. Do not devise a way to suck the body down tight to the frame. Maximum 5” body mount washers allowed on the top of the body bolts inside the passenger compartment and trunk. Sub-frame cars may have washers up to 2” larger than the factory body mount hole (for example: if the hole is 4”, the use of an 8” washer is permitted). These washers may not be welded to the floor pans or trunk floor. Washers inside the frame must be in stock location and may be 2” larger than the original frame hole. Chrysler K-frame cars can remove the rubber spacers between the frame and the K-member and bolt them up tight. Bolts may be replaced with up to ¾” diameter bolts.
Radiator support (or commonly called the Core Support) must remain in stock location. The radiator support mount bushings may be removed completely. The radiator support may contact the frame but must not be welded to it. The two radiator mount bolts may be up to 1”diameter. These two bolts may be welded to the frame. These two bolts may extend straight down through to the bottom side of the frame. No angling back to “A” frames to form a “kicker”. These two bolts may extend up next to the radiator support, through to the top of the hood, and be used as two hood hold down bolts. These two bolts may be welded to the radiator support. These two bolts may be welded to the frame if they do not go down through the frame. Thicker (taller) than stock spacers are allowed between the radiator support and the frame. Spacers may be welded to frame or the support, not both. No bolts allowed in front of radiator.
#9 Wire (four loops maximum) or cable (one loop of 3/8”) from driver side frame rail, across to the passenger side frame rail, is allowed. If used, it must be located above and behind the rear axle housing. No welding.
You are allowed 2 spots of #9 wire, no more than four wires thick, from roof sheet metal only to frame. You may weld in a standard ¾” washer on the roof sheet metal to keep the wire from ripping the metal.
You must run the transmission cross member in the stock location. You can weld 2” angle iron no thicker than 3/16”, and no longer than 6” to the side of the frame to support the cross member. If you pre-bend your frame, you may not use this angle iron to reinforce your bend. The transmission cross member is the only way a transmission may be tied in. Do not attach transmission to dash bar or any other point that is not the cross member. You may run a homemade cross member, but if you do, you cannot have a “transmission protector” or any other variable of one. Your transmission also must remain completely stock. This means no switching out the tail shaft housing either. That is considered strengthening the transmission and the same as a transmission protector. To be clear: If you have a transmission protector, or an aftermarket tail shaft housing, you must run a factory-made automobile cross member. All others may run a reasonable homemade cross member. Head official has the final say on what is “reasonable.”
Body: Bodies must remain stock. No re-welding of factory seams inside the engine compartment, inside the passenger compartment, inside the trunk compartment, on the underside of the body, under the hood or trunk lid. No added bolts or screws to any body seams. No added metal anywhere on the body of the car because of “rust”. If the body is rusty, we must be able to see the rusted areas that have been fixed. Bodies will be drilled or cut open for inspection if needed as determined by the officials.
Hoods must open for inspection. Hoods must remain in the stock location and position. Bending down, or bending up, excess hood in front of radiator support allowed. Other than that bend, hoods must remain flat. Hoods must have a minimum of two 12” holes for fire control. Holes cut in hood for fire control, or exhaust may be bolted (not welded) back together with up to eight 3/8” bolts (1” washers maximum) per hole. Hoods must be either chained or bolted shut. Hoods may have no more than ten 3/8” bolts (1” washer max) fastening inner/outer hood sheet metal together on hood itself. Hood bolts or washers may not be placed as to create any reinforcement. If hood is bolted shut: A minimum of four bolts ¾” diameter must be used. A maximum of six bolts (with the front two 1” radiator support bolts counting towards your six) allowed to hold your hood down. The factory hood hinges do not count as a hood hold down. Only the front two radiator support bolts may go down through the hood to the frame. The other four bolts, if used, must be sheet metal to sheet metal only. No bolts to be placed in front of radiator as protection. Washers for the topside of the hood may not exceed 5” square and 1/4” thick. The hood “washers” may be welded to the top of the hood. 5” square “washers” may also be welded to the inner fenders at the corners (fender to radiator support and fender to the fire wall or cowl) below the hood. Bolts may then be welded to these “washers” to hold the hood. 1”1/2 Angle Iron, no more than 6” long welded to hood & fender/bolted together may be counted same as other hood bolts. If the hood is chained shut: A minimum of four spots of 1/4” chain must be used. A maximum of up to eight spots of 3/8” chain may be used. The use of 5” square “washers” is allowed as above.
Fenders may be cut for a larger wheel well opening. Fenders may be bolted back together (with no welding) with up to eight 3/8” bolts (1” diameter washers maximum) per wheel well opening. Excess front fender in front of radiator support may be cut, folded over, and bolted (not welded) back together. Four 3/8” bolts (1” washers) allowed per fender for this.
Doors must be chained, wired, bolted, or welded (exterior seams only) shut. You may weld the door seams and trunk lid solid. Chain must be a minimum of 1/4”, wire must be a minimum of two loops, bolts must be a minimum of 3/8”, and weld must be 4” on a minimum of two spots per door seam. No chain, wire, or bolts allowed to go to or around frame or cage. 3” wide by 1/8” strap maximum allowed to weld over the exterior door seams. You may also have one loop of #9 wire per window opening sheet metal to sheet metal no more than four wires thick.
Trunk lids and station wagon tailgates may be chained, wired, bolted, or welded shut the same as the doors. Any two methods are allowed to fasten the trunk lid or tailgate. No method may go to or around the frame or rear bumper unless specified in these rules. Trunk lid may be “tucked” down inside the trunk compartment. Trunk lid may not be welded to the trunk floor pan. Two bolts (maximum 1” diameter) are allowed in the trunk from the bottom of the trunk pan up through the top of the trunk lid. These two bolts are allowed to go down through the top side of the frame only in the rear body mount holes. The bolt must be cut off flush with the bottom of the nut inside the frame. If the bolt sticks down through the bottom of the frame, it will have to be cut before an inspection will be done. If you choose not to run them through the body bolt hole, they may welded to the outside of the frame. These bolts will have to be welded to the side of the frame rail in a straight up and down manner. The use of 5” washers is allowed on the trunk lid the same as the hood. These two bolts must be cut flush with the top of the nuts. These two bolts are the only bolts allowed to hold the trunk lid down. If you beat your speaker deck and trunk lid down more than 2”, you must have a 12” inspection hole cut in the top of the trunk lid or floor board.
Pre-forming or pre-bending the body sheet metal is allowed. It may be cut to shape it, but not allowed to re-weld or bolt back together (except for the front edge of the front fenders, wheel well radius, and hood holes). . Station wagon tail gates may be lowered, then chained, wired, bolted, or welded shut. No more than ten 3/8 bolts (1” washer max) may be used to bolt inner/outer trunk lid sheet metal together. If back bumper has been removed, Station Wagon gates maybe lowered & bolted or welded to back bumper brackets or shocks.
Tops of doors, and areas that had moving windows, may be pinched together and welded. Weld bead only, no plates or other material allowed. Inspectors must be able to see down into the body.
The re-welding of the doorpost or pillar, to the floor sheet metal is allowed on both the driver side and passenger side. No added metal
The use of fabricated parts such as steering columns, fuel pedals, brake pedals, transmission shifters, seat brackets, battery boxes, fuel tanks (10gal max), and coolers allowed.
Seat, battery, fuel tank, and cooler brackets must be welded to, or bolted to, the floor sheet metal. No chain, wire, or rubber type straps allowed to fasten these items. The seat, battery, fuel tank, and coolers must be secure. Steering column brackets and seat brackets may come in contact with, and be attached to these bars. No bracket may extend in front of the dash bar (other than steering column bracket). No bracket may extend past the rear of the seat bar except the gas tank bracket and protector. Brackets in the front seat area must be welded to, or bolted to, floor sheet metal only. Brackets in the front seat area may not be attached to the body mount washers. Brackets in the back seat area must be welded to, or bolted to, the floor sheet metal only. Bolts in the back seat area may not go through, or around, the frame or sub-frame. Brackets for the front seat area, and brackets for the back seat area, must be completely separate. One post or pillar is allowed in the rear window area. 2” x 2” square, or 2” round maximum size allowed. This post or pillar must mount to the back edge of the roof and extend down to the front edge of the original trunk lid seam on the body. One 5” x 5” x ¼” maximum size plate allowed at the top and one plate allowed at the bottom. These plates must be mounted to sheet metal only. This must be ONE bar and must remain straight. No looping or making a U-shaped bar. It’s one straight bar, or no bar.
Remove all rear “decking” in station wagons.
Suspension and Steering: YOU MAY CONVERT A WATTS LINK FORD TO A STANDARD GM REAREND IN THE FOLLOWING WAY: USE THE TRAILING ARM BRACKETS OFF AN OLDER FORD OR METAL OF THE SAME SIZE AND THICKNESS. NO POSITIONING OF THE BRACKETS TO STRENGTHEN THE FRONT DOWNLEG OF THE REAR HUMP. YOU MAY CUT OUT THE COIL SPRING FRAME TRAY FROM AN EARLIER YEAR FORD AND WELD IT IN THE NEWER FORD. IF YOU CHOOSE TO MANUFACTURE A SYSTEM FOR THE UPPER BRACKETS PLEASE CALL AHEAD. ONE PASS ONLY, 1/2” MAXIMUM. NO STRONGER THAN STOCK. You may not replace a ford package tray with a GM package tray, or vice versa. The package tray must be stock for that model of vehicle.
Leaf spring packs may not have more than 7 leafs and must have 2” stagger in the front of the axle and the 2” in back of the axle. You may add 4 spring clamps per side, but not all four may be on either side of the axle. This means you may have two in front and two in rear, or one in front and three in rear. The clamps may not be larger than 5”x2”x1/4” and may have two ½” bolts holding them together. Front and rear factory leaf spring brackets, on Chrysler cars, may be welded to the floor brackets, and or sub-frame brackets. No leaf springs under non-leaf cars allowed. All shackles must be factory car shackles. No homemade shackles. Absolutely no welding allowed anywhere on the leaf springs or clamps.
If your rear end is chained tight and down too low, you will be made to change it. The head judge will make the final decision on rear body height.
The interchange of front spindles, rotors, and upper A-arms allowed (except for 2003 and newer Fords). The parts must not be reinforced or altered and must be considered OEM car, not truck or SUV. Only a minimum of fabrication is allowed to do this. The A-arm mounts, if needed, may not strengthen the frame, or be stronger than what is considered stock. You may reinforce your tie rods.
You may weld or bolt your front A-arms down to the frame. If you bolt them, you may use one ¾” bolt on each side. If you weld them, you may have 2” of weld on the top of the frame in front of the A-arm and 2” behind. This weld cannot be to the vertical sides of the frame or act to strengthen the frame in any way or will be cut. This should allow you a 2”x2” plate from the top of the frame rail to the A-arm both front and back to weld it down.
Any rear axle automotive car or light duty truck axle will be allowed. Rear axle braces are also allowed, but must not be any closer than 4” from the frame on fresh cars. This distance will be judged differently on used cars. There must be at least a 2” gap on used cars minimum from the frame rails to the axle tubes or bracing as long as the humps are “kinked” and this small of a gap was unavoidable. If the hump has been stretched can into original position and plated/repaired, the 4” gap is then required. The head judge will have the final call on this gap. This measurement is from the axle tube straight back and upwards towards the rear frame rail.
Factory rear control arms on coil sprung cars may be lengthened or shortened. Only a minimum of reinforcing is allowed. “Boxing” of rear control arms, allowed. Double coil springs are allowed, (one coil spring turned inside a second coil spring). Coil springs may be wired, welded, or cabled in on top or bottom. Only one place is allowed to hold coil spring in. Air shock lines must be cut.
You are allowed two chains or cable or wire total (one on each side of the center section/pinion of the rear axle) around axle housing to frame or body. May not be welded or bolted to frame or body, but just looped around it. It must be looped AROUND the rear frame, not bolted through the frame creating a pin.
Altered or fabricated steering columns allowed.
Tires: We do not want flats. No bigger than 15” rims, no spit rims, no studded tires on driven wheels. No rim reinforcements. Wheels may have after market centers welded in, but no larger than 6” wheel centers. No spikes, paddles, or other material to be welded inside or to the rim. No liquid filled tires allowed. Rim screws allowed, but only on the inside of the wheel. Implement tread, forklift type, foam filled, urethane, solid, and double tires are allowed. Valve stem protection is allowed. Any ply allowed.
Bumpers: Any car bumper allowed on any car. Bumpers may be cut. Bumpers may be chained, bolted, or welded on. Bumpers may be welded to the brackets, and brackets may be welded to the frame. Bumpers may be welded directly to the frame. You may use any factory automobile FRONT bumper bracket. If you use a FACTORY bumper bracket, you may also have the original factory bumper shock inside the frame. If you use a factory shock or bracket, no bracket or shock may extend rearward more than 14 inches from the rear of bumper mounting face. This is measured at the factory mount surface. You may weld your bracket on the outside or run the shock inside the frame no farther than 14” back from the bumper. All excess bracket must be cut off at that point. All shocks inside the frame may have a ½” bolt run through it and drilled all the way through the fame rail side to side. You may not weld the nut or bolt to the frame. Nothing may extend back past this 14” point inside or outside the frame. All brackets must make contact with the bumper.
Instead of using a factory bumper bracket, you may use a 4” wide and 3/8" thick piece of steel strap that may extend from your bumper back towards the A-arm. This strap cannot extend any further back on the frame than the front upper A-arm bracket on top of the frame (this A-arm mounting bracket must remain in the stock location). You may also bend this strap to form an “L” shape and 4” may be welded to the back of the bumper. Don’t push your luck with this rule. You will cut more than what is allowed if you do. If you run this strap instead of a factory shock or bracket, you may only have the plate. No shocks or factory brackets allowed in conjunction with this plate.
Bumpers may have seams welded. You may reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper. The bumper must start stock and may have metal put inside for reinforcement. Bumper chrome may be smashed down and welded to inner bumper support. Bumpers may be mounted upside down. Rear car bumpers allowed on the front. Front car bumpers allowed on the rear. Rear bumper brackets may only be used on the rear of the car. Front bumper brackets may only be used on the front of the car. You also may NOT take a stock bumper and re-shape it and then load it. An example would be taking a steel Ford Crown Victoria bumper and re-working it into a “pointy” Chrysler look-alike. If it’s a Ford bumper, it needs to remain a Ford Bumper. Just put your steel on the inside. No homemade bumpers allowed.
Rear Bumpers, 4 chains or 4, 2” wide straps from rear bumper to car body allowed. No more than 5” of weld on straps on body and 5” of weld on bumpers. Bumpers must be smooth at the edges.
You may have #9 wire in two locations (two loops or 4 strands each) may be used from front hood hold-down/bolts to front bumper or two 3/8” chains. This is just added protection to keep your bumper from falling completely off. Bumper height not to exceed 24” to the bottom of the bumper from the ground and must be a minimum of 14” from the bottom of the bumper to the ground. Bumpers must be in stock location.
If your bumper breaks loose during the event and is sticking out or has the potential to become a hazard, the show will be stopped and you have a choice. If the bumper can be removed completely, you may continue. If you choose not to take it off, you will be disqualified for that heat and may come back into the consolation heat if eligible.
All bumper must conform to the following size limits. It can be no larger than 8”x8”. The point must taper over an area of at least 32” Overall the bumper cannot exceed 12” wide at the tip of the point. The point may only extend out 4” from the flat part of the bumper.
Engines: Engines and transmissions may be interchanged and mounts may be fabricated and welded as long as it does not strategically reinforce the frame, A-arms, or shock towers. No engine mounts, braces, cables, or chains may extend in front of, or behind the engine block. If you feel the need to chain your engine or engine cradle in, you may use one 12” chain (3/8” max) from the top motor mount or cradle down to the to of the frame. You may weld two of the links to the top of the frame rail, not to the vertical frame surfaces. No engine or transmission mounting to dash bar! “K” frames in cars may be welded to the main frame rails. 1/2” filler rod maximum. No plates as filler allowed. This filler rod and weld must not extend 4'' in front of or 4” behind engine block. No K-frames in non-K-frame cars.
AFTERMARKET ENGINE CRADLES ARE ALLOWED. PULLEY PROTECTORS ARE ALLOWED. IF YOU USE A FRONT MOTOR PLATE, IT MAY NOT BE GUSSETTED TO THE HEADER FLANGES OR ATTACHED IN ANY OTHER MANNER. THE DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTOR IS AND MUST REMAIN A SEPARATE ITEM, NOT CONNECTED TO ANY OTHER COMPONENT IN ANY MANNER. AN EXAMPLE TO THIS WOULD BE IF YOUR SWAY BAR IS CONNECTED TO THE PULLEY PROTECTOR. THIS WILL NOT BE ALLOWED.
Full Size No-Weld “Hobo” Class Rules
*Note from the head judge: This class is designed to allow for a person who does not have the money, time, or resources to build a competitive car in the full-size class. This class is designed with beginners in mind. When I say that I want this class to be stock, I mean absolutely bone-stock. I will allow you to do a few things, but those things will be for safety. If you take what I say and attempt to undermine the nature of this class, you will not be allowed to run. This set of rules is very simple and shouldn’t be too hard to understand. If you have questions, please call. You can be assured that I will rule on the side of more stock than more work. If you spend more than two days building this car, you are most likely over-built and stand the chance of not running the show. My ultimate goal is to allow people to get out and compete and have FUN!
Any American make car can run with the following exceptions. No 1970 or older Lincolns. No 1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Imperial sub-frames, 4x4’s, ambulance, hearses, trucks, limousines, etc…
You must relocate the gas tank and battery into the passenger compartment of the vehicle and they must be covered and securely fastened to the floor sheet metal. You must use a metal gas tank (we recommend a metal boat tank). No plastic gas tanks unless they are in a metal container.
Drivers Cage: You MUST weld in a bar behind the drivers seat from doorpost to doorpost. This bar may not be larger than 8” around or square and may have a larger 12”x12” plate welded on the ends. You may weld a bar where the dash board used to be. You may weld a bar from the back seat bar to the dash bar along the inside of the drivers door and passenger door. You may also add another bar inside the drivers side door and we suggest a bar that runs inside the door from the rear of the door down at an angle toward the front bottom corner of the drivers front door. This cage is the extent of the welding allowed on these cars unless stated otherwise. Drivers door padding is recommended.
It is highly recommended that you have a halo or roll over bar. This can be a single post from the back cage bar welded vertically up to the roof and welded or bolted to a plate and then to the roof or you may weld bars in a rollover bar fashion up off the back cage bar and along the top of the roof. The halo or roof bar must be vertical.
Body and Frame: No welding allowed on the frame unless otherwise specified. The frame must be completely bone-stock. Body must remain completely stock as well unless modifications are allowed in the following rules.
Minor notching of the rear frame allowed. You are allowed to make one notch on each frame rail in the rear of the frame behind the rear axle. No pre-bending on fresh cars.
No suspension modifications allowed. All suspension must remain stock for that particular vehicle.
No steering modifications allowed. All steering parts must remain stock for that particular vehicle.
You may remove the trunk lid, but if you run it, it must remain in the stock location. No tucking the trunk lid. You may not “wedge” the trunk.
The hood may only be cut to allow for the exhaust and each hood must have at least one 12” hole for fire safety. You must also have at least one bar bolted vertically in the front windshield area to keep your hood from coming back into the passenger compartment and cutting your head off (or any other variation on such an injury)
You will be allowed two pieces of ¾” allthread in the hood. They must go from the top of the hood, straight down to the frame and may go through the frame body mount hole near the core support. These rods may not be welded and must be bolted.
Doors may have two chains, cables, bolts, or wire per seam to fasten them shut. Trunks and hoods may have only four total chains, cables, bolts, or wire to fasten them. Nothing larger than 3/8” chain, 3/8” cable, ½” bolts, or four loops of #9 wire. If any of your doors come open during the competition, you will be disqualified.
You may beat in the fenders, but only very minimal shaping will be allowed. Absolutely no enhancing or making new body lines in the sheet metal. Did I mention…No wedging the trunks!
You must run the stock bumper for that make and model. The bumper may not be modified. If your bumper comes loose and is sticking out at an angle and is unsafe, you will be stopped and disqualified if the bumper cannot be broken off completely. You are allowed two chains total from the front bumper to the frame or hood/core support area. If you choose to go to the frame, you may drill one 3/8” hole vertically through the frame and you may attach your chain from the bumper to the frame using a 3/8” bolt in that hole. This hole must be no further than 4” from the back of the bumper mounting surface. This may also be done on the rear bumper and the measurements will apply the same. These two bumper chains will not count as two of your hood or trunk chains if they only go from the frame to the bumper. You are also allowed 8” of weld bead on the bumper for each frame/shock mounting area. This means you may weld a little on the bumper to hold it on. No added metal at all. If the vehicle you will be driving came with a plastic bumper, you may use a factory bumper from another 1980’s car, such as a Crown Victoria bumper. Absolutely no bumper swaps with older bumpers or just because your bumper has aluminum backing (such as many of the 80’s GM cars have) Old iron bumper on newer cars is not ok.
You may weld the lower motor mounts to the cradle/cross-member to keep your engine from breaking loose and flipping over. One pass top and bottom is all on each lower mount! If you can’t get to the cradle to weld it, you may have one 12” piece of chain that may be welded to the top motor mount and welded or bolted to the top of the frame.
Drivetrain: Any engine/transmission combination will be allowed as long as the engine’s motor mounts are welded or bolted to the original cradle. Two engine chain max, if engine chain is welded can only be welded on top of frame and only two links of chain may be welded.
You must use a stock factory drive shaft in this class. You may convert the engine from fuel injection to carbueration, but this must be done by only exchanging the intake manifolds.
There will be a $800 claim on any engine ( EBGINE ONLY) used during this competition. If you wouldn’t sell your engine for $800, then don’t run it in this class. Drivers competing in this class as well as the Head Official may claim any engine from this class and the driver finishing in last place has the first chance to claim any engine working all the way to the 1st place driver with he/she and then the Head Official having the last opportunity to claim an engine combo. Headers, Carburetors, Starter, Intake, etc all go with the engine if it is claimed. Radiator and engine wiring for example will stay with the car. The driver making the claim is responsible for removal of the engine this must be done within a reasonable amount of time. If motor mounting bolts are welded in some more time will be given for engine removal. Minimum of 2.5 hours will be given after the completion of the Hobo class feature and the cash exchanged with the driver whose engine is being claimed. You may not torch the vehicle to remove the engine unless the engine is welded in at the motor mounts. If that is the case, that is the only cutting allowed. Cash in hand policy on all claims and the cash must be given to the driver in the arena at the end of the Hobo class feature and the 2.5 hour time limit begins at that point. By driving in and competing in this class, you are implying your consent to the claim or sale of your engine. If your engine is claimed, you may not forfeit your winnings and keep your equipment. If anything is done to damage the engine after the claim is made then the claimed money will be returned.
Stock rearend axle assemblies must be used. You may weld the gears inside the rear axle, but no “geared rearends” and certainly no braced or reinforced rearends.
Tires: NO valve stem protectors. No tractor, skid steer, Agriculture, studded or Non-DOT tire allowed in this class. All tires used must be street tires only. To clarify, you may have a factory wheel, a tube if you choose, and a DOT tire no bigger than 15” and that is it. The only exception to this rule would be if the make and model of vehicle you are running came with larger wheels (i.e. newer Ford’s come with 16” wheels)…Nothing else.
CAR Limit: To prevent running heats I will only be allowing 35 hobo cars to enter this derby. I will not be running heats this will be a run and done class. If for some reason cars that are still competing get blocked off from other cars I will stop the derby and remove some of the dead cars.
The last rule is to get out there and have a good time!
Compact Class Rules
All full size build rules apply to this class unless stated otherwise below. All of the “General Rules” also apply to this class.
Any compact car or truck is allowed to compete in this class within the following specs: 106” maximum wheel base for rear wheel drive cars and trucks, and 108” maximum wheel base for front wheel drive cars.
No V8’s allowed in this class unless that specific year and model of car or truck came from the factory with a V8.
Leaf Springs: The same rules apply as the full size cars except compacts are allowed 6 leafsprings instead of 7. All leaf packs must be on the bottom of the axle and NO WELDING allowed anyplace on the pack. You may have 5 total spring clamps, but still have to have one in front of the axle.
Frame and Body: No relocating the core support or moving it.
No shortening of the front or rear frame rails. No shortening the frame any place in order to fit a certain vehicle into the wheelbase rule.
Sway bars may not be welded to the frame.
Trucks may weld the cab to the bed on both sides the same as a door or trunk seam.
No adding or subtracting body mount bolts, but trucks may run one washer for both cab body mounts on the topside (inside the cab only). This strap washer may not be wider than 4” and may not extend more than 4” past the body mount hole in the front and 4” in the back. You may only have two of these washers inside the cab; one on the drivers side and one on the passenger side.
No kickers allowed anyplace on the vehicle.
No bars welded from the cage bars anyplace other than what is set forth in the cage rules.
No cage bars may contact or be welded so as to strengthen the frame, body, or sub-frame strategically (i.e. door bars extending back to the wheel wells) Battery and driver seat can not connect sub-frame to rear frame. There must at least a 3” gap between the two.
Bumpers: Any car bumper allowed on any car. Bumpers may be cut. Bumpers may be chained, bolted, or welded on. Bumpers may be welded to the brackets, and brackets may be welded to the frame. Bumpers may be welded directly to the frame. Brackets may be cut. Use only factory brackets. No homemade brackets will be allowed. No bracket or shock may extend rearward more than 14 inches from the rear of bumper mounting face. This is measured at the factory mount surface. You may weld your bracket on the outside or run the shock inside the frame (not both) no farther than 14” back from the bumper. All excess bracket must be cut off at that point. All shocks inside the frame may have a ½” bolt run through it and drilled all the way through the fame rail side to side. You may not weld the nut or bolt to the frame. Nothing may extend back past this 14” point inside or outside the frame. All brackets must make contact with the bumper. No extra steel or other material allowed as a bumper bracket. You may use either the factory brackets that came with the bumper, or you may use the factory brackets that came with the car, not both. Bumpers may have seams welded. You may reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper. The bumper must start stock and may have metal put inside for reinforcement. Bumper chrome may be smashed down and welded to inner bumper support. Bumpers may be mounted upside down. Rear car bumpers allowed on the front. Front car bumpers allowed on the rear. Rear bumper brackets may only be used on the rear of the car. Front bumper brackets may only be used on the front of the car. You also may NOT take a stock bumper and re-shape it and then load it. An example would be taking a steel Ford Crown Victoria bumper and re-working it into a “pointy” Chrysler look-alike. If it’s a Ford bumper, it needs to remain a Ford Bumper. Just put your steel on the inside. No homemade bumpers allowed. The full-size bumper bracket strap will not be allowed in the compact class.
Frame Plates: No plates on fresh cars. Used cars will be allowed 16” of 3” plate per frame rail. You may break this up and use it as you see fit, but the officials MUST be able to see the bend or damage to the frame.
If you have any questions about these rules, please call or text Luke Lang @ 785-766-5062. Just because something is not written in these rules, it does not mean that you can do it. These rules lay out what you CAN do to your car and you should read them that way. I didn’t write that you couldn’t bring a Sherman Tank, but if you show up with it, you won’t run. Make sense?
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