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Post by dough14 on Feb 3, 2015 16:26:53 GMT -5
August 8th 2015 7:00pm
Inspection time 3:00pm to 6:00pm
Entry Fee is 40 dollars a car and 20 dollar pit pass.
Limited Weld Class 1800 1300 800 300 100 Hobo Class 1000 500 100 Compact Class 700 300 100
Payouts are guaranteed. New guys putting on this show this year. Hoping for a good show. Will post rules soon. If you have any questions call Brent Sleezer at 620-364-6088 thanks
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Post by dough14 on Feb 4, 2015 11:42:58 GMT -5
HOBO CLASS Any American make car or station wagon can run with the following exceptions. No 1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Imperial sub-frames, 4x4s, ambulance, hearses, trucks, limousines, No 2003 & newer Ford cars or frames, No Distributor protectors, engine cradles, No frame welding except for what is allowed in rules.
These rules are REQUIRED and must be met or you will not run.
If you have a distributor protector on your motor u must cut firewall out 3 in on both sides of protector.
1. Overall condition must be safe. This applies to used cars as well as some fresh cars. IF the officials deem the car unsafe to run, it will not run.
2. Fire jacket highly recommended. Long pants are required. Eye protection and gloves highly recommended. Shoes are required.
3. Minimum of D.O.T. rated helmet required. Full-face helmets recommended.
4. Seat belts are required, must be functional, and fastened to the floor or seat bracket. Officials decision is final.
5. Car must be fully stripped of all flammable material. All glass, chrome, door handles, and any unsafe items must be removed from the inside and outside of the cars. All plastic, stainless and pot metal trim, fiberglass, and rubber must be removed from the outside of the car. Car floor, trunks, and inside of doors must be swept of glass, debris, and must be clean.
6. Factory fuel tank(s) must be removed. Unused factory fuel lines must be blown free of gas. Removing unused fuel lines recommended. Factory fuel tank may not be re-used.
7. A steel seat support (seat bar) is required from the inside of the driver door(s) across to the passenger door(s), must be behind the seat, and must be no farther back than 6 from back of drivers seat. This support must be made of steel, 2 x 2 x square, 2 x round minimum, 6 x square or round maximum. Steel plates are required on the ends of this support, 6 x 6 x minimum, 12 x 12 x maximum. These steel plates must be welded well to the support. Officials decision is final. The steel plates may be bolted to the car, however welding is highly recommended. IF the factory dash is removed, a support similar to the seat support is required. If you use a dash support, it may be connected to the seat support bar with similar material. These bars may be against inner door skin. These bars may not extend past the dash or seat supports more than 6.
8. Drivers door must be welded shut for safety. Welding the outer drivers door seams completely is highly recommended. Welding the inner drivers door seams allowed. Outer drivers door skin reinforcement is allowed and highly recommended. Outer drivers door bar may not extend in front of the front door seem more than 6, and may not extend past the rear door seem more than 6. No grader blades. Pipes, C channel, or other material are allowed on the outside of the drivers door. Reinforcement on the inside of the drivers door with pipe, bars and other material is allowed.
9. Halo bars and rollover bars are allowed. The addition of posts on hardtop sedans (connecting top of doors to roof) is also allowed. Roll over cages may run on the exterior of the roof, and must be welded to the seat support and dash support (if used). Connecting these roll over cages to the roof is allowed and recommended. These roll over bars, behind the seat only, must be vertical (not angled up and back), may extend down to the floor tin, however, it may not be attached to the frame or sub-frame.
10. A minimum of two steel straps or bars must be located in windshield area. These may be bolted or welded and must only attach to sheet metal.
11. Battery must be re-located inside of passenger compartment. The battery must be in a solid container and must be securely fastened and covered.
12. No steel gas cans or plastic gas jugs allowed. A steel boat tank is recommended, however any metal tank deemed safe by the officials is acceptable. Any plastic or urethane fuel cell must be in a solid metal container and must be covered with metal. The fuel tank must be securely fastened inside the passenger compartment. Officials decision is final.
13. Hoods must have a minimum of two 12 holes for fire control.
14. Cars must have some type of working brakes.
15. Oil coolers, engine and transmission, are allowed. IF air coolers (fans) are used, a shield must be located between the cooler and the driver. High-pressure hydraulic lines and fittings are recommended. No gas hose is allowed. It must be compatible with transmission oil. If oil hose is used, minimum of two hose clamps per fitting. Non high-pressure oil hose must be covered. Engine cooler hose and fittings must be high pressure.
16. Electric fuel pumps are allowed, must have high pressure fuel line, All fuel hose must be covered. And be safe!
17. Radiator coolant over flow tubes must point straight down.
If it is not allowed in the following rules, then do not do it!
Frame and Body Rules:
1. Official's decision is final.
2. No frame / body swaps. No added metal to car body or frame other than what is allowed!!
3. Frames must remain stock. No re-welding factory frame seams except for what is allowed in rules! No filling holes in frame, big or small! No frame plating inside or out. No re-painting frames with paint or under coating. No grease and dirt tricks. No means NO! If you have any paint, undercoating, or other dirt grease tricks, foam or mouse nest etc. inside your frame you wont pass inspection! No welding on frame anywhere! Any repairs on pre-run cars must call first! 4. Cutting and or pre-notching the frame are allowed, but must not re-weld any part of it. No adding of body mounts to the frame allowed.
5. Engines and transmissions may be interchanged and mounts may be fabricated and welded as long as it does not strategically reinforce the frame, A frames, or shock towers. No engine mounts, braces, cables, or chains may extend more than 4 in front of, or 4 behind the engine block. Maximum length of angle or plate is 4. Maximum size allowed is 2 x 2 x . Angle or plate must extend upward from top of frame only. Engine mounts may only be attached to the top of the frame rail, no welding to vertical frame surfaces. 6. Body mounts & bolts must remain stock! ( may replace with same size bolt like stock)Only added mounts are the front core support/ Hood bolts & two trunk bolts may go to frame. You are allowed #9 wire (4 strands thick) wrapped around body & frame in eight locations per car. You may use inch flat washers tack welded to the body to loop #9 wire thru.
7. Radiator support mount bushings may be removed completely. The radiator support may contact the frame but must not be welded to it. The two radiator mount bolts may be up to 3/4diameter. These two bolts may be welded to the frame. These two bolts may extend straight down through to the bottom side of the frame. These two bolts may extend up next to the radiator support, through to the top of the hood, and be used as two hood hold down bolts. No bolts allowed in front of radiator. 2 chains or #9 wire in two locations(two loops or 4 strands each) may be used from front hood hold-down/bolts to front bumper.
8. All trailer hitches, tow bars, and other material used for towing, must be removed completely.
9. Bodies must remain stock, No added bolts or screws to body seams than what is allowed in rules. No adding metal to body other than driver door. 10. All cut outs for fenders, hood fire hole, inspection hole, and header hood openings may have up to six 3/8 bolts per cut out. 11. Hoods must open for inspection. Hoods must remain in the stock location and position. Bending down, or bending up, excess hood in front of radiator support allowed. Holes cut in hood for fire control, or exhaust may be bolted (not welded) back together with up to six 3/8 bolts (1 washers maximum) per hole. Hoods must be either chained or bolted shut. Hoods may have no more than ten 3/8 bolts (1 washer max) fastening inner/outer hood sheet metal together on hood itself. If bolted shut: A maximum of six bolts, not to exceed 3/4 diameter is allowed. The factory hood hinges do not count as a hood hold down. Only the front two bolts may go down through the hood to the frame. The other four bolts, if used, must be sheet metal to sheet metal only. No bolts to be placed in front of radiator as protection. Washers for the topside of the hood may not exceed 5 square and 1/4 thick. The hood washers may be welded to the top of the hood. 5 square washers may also be welded to the inner fenders at the corners (fender to radiator support and fender to the fire wall or cowl) below the hood. Bolts may then be welded to these washers to hold the hood. If chained shut: A minimum of four spots of 1/4 chain must be used. A maximum of up to eight spots of 3/8 chain may be used. The use of 5 square washers is allowed as above.
12. Radiators must be in the stock location and may use factory type mounts. Ratchet straps, wire, and chain may be used to hold in radiator. Aluminum radiators may be used. Electric fans may be used. Air conditioner condensers may be bolted directly to the radiator support.
13. Fenders may be cut for a larger wheel well opening. Fenders may be bolted back together (with no welding) with up to six 3/8 bolts (1 diameter washers maximum) per wheel well opening. Excess front fender in front of radiator support may be cut, folded over, and bolted (not welded) back together. Four 3/8 bolts (1 washers) allowed per fender.
14. Doors must be chained, or wired shut No welding or bolting! Not to exceed 4 spots per door seam and a minimum of 4 spots per door. Chain must be a minimum of 1/4, wire must be a minimum of two loops. You are allowed #9 wire (4 strands thick) wrapped around body & frame in eight locations per car. Only the Drivers door may be welded solid! 15. Trunk lids & station wagon tail gates must remain in the stock position. Tucking and folding the rear portion of trunk lid is ok. Trunk lids and station wagon tail gates must be chained, or wired shut! Not to exceed 4 spots per door seam. You may have two inch all thread from trunk lid to frame. You may also have two bolts sheet metal to sheet metal. No more than two locations of #9 wire from trunk lid or rear of station wagon roof to frame. No more than four chains or #9 wire per seam on wagon gates & trunk sheet metal to back bumper. Trunks must have a 12 square inspection hole. Station Wagons: are allowed to pre bend roof but NO SEDAGONS! 16. The use of fabricated parts such as steering columns, transmission shifters, seat brackets, battery boxes, fuel tanks, and coolers are allowed. Transmission and engine oil coolers are allowed. Two batteries are allowed.
17. Seat, battery, fuel tank, and cooler brackets must be welded to, or bolted to, the floor sheet metal. No chain, wire, or rubber type straps allowed to fasten these items. The seat, battery, fuel tank, and coolers must be secure. No bracket may be attached to, or come in contact with, the seat bar, dash bar, or door bars. Steering column brackets and seat brackets may come in contact with, and be attached to, these bars. No bracket may extend in front of the dash bar (other than steering column bracket). No bracket may extend past the rear of the seat bar. Brackets in the front seat area must be welded to, or bolted to, floor sheet metal only. Brackets in the front seat area may be attached to the factory body mount washers. Brackets in the back seat area must be welded to, or bolted to, the floor sheet metal only. Bolts in the back seat area may not go through, or around, the frame or sub-frame. Brackets in the back seat area must not be attached to, or come in contact with, the seat bar or door bars. Brackets for the front seat area, and brackets for the back seat area, must be completely separate. Gas tank protectors may be welded to seat bar and must have a 1 space between the backseat area. No wider than 24 The official's decision is final. Suspension Rules:
1. No leaf springs under non-leaf cars allowed. No solid suspension. Suspension must be working and have a minimum of 2 travel. No reinforcing of steering or suspension components other than what is allowed in these rules.
2. The front spindles, rotors, and upper A frames must not be reinforced or altered and must be considered OEM car, not truck or SUV.
3. Rear axle assemblies must be stock factory type rear ends. Rear ends must not have more than five wheel studs per axle shaft.
4. No more than 7 leaf springs per side, no more than 3/8 thick leaves. The leaves must stagger down to bottom spring with a minimum of 1 stagger. The leaf directly under the main may not extend longer, or past, the main leaf eyebolt. No double wrapping of the main leaf. No leaf may be as long as the main leaf. No leaf springs on top of, or above, the main leaf allowed. 4 leaf spring clamps allowed per leaf spring pack, 8 total per car. Maximum size of clamps is 2 wide by 5 long by 1/2 thick.
5. Coil springs may be wired, welded, or cabled in on top or bottom. Only one place is allowed to hold coil spring in. Air shock lines must be cut.
6. Allowed two chains or cable or wire around axle housing to frame or body. May not be welded or bolted to frame or body, just looped around it.
7. Shocks are allowed and must have 2 minimum travel. 8. Wire (four loops maximum) or cable (one loop of 3/8) from driver side frame rail, across to the passenger side frame rail, is allowed. If used, it must be located above and behind the rear axle housing. No welding.
9. Altered, replaced, and or fabricated steering columns allowed.
Tire rules:. We do not want flats. 1. No bigger than 16 rims, no spit rims, no studded tires on driven wheels. No rim reinforcements. No spikes, paddles, or other material to be welded inside or to the rim. No liquid filled tires allowed. Rim screws allowed. Implement tread, forklift type, foam filled, urethane, solid, and double tires are allowed. Valve stem protection is allowed. Any ply allowed.
Bumper Rules:
1. Bumpers may be cut. Bumpers may be chained, bolted, or welded on. Bumpers may be welded to the brackets, and brackets may be welded to the frame. Brackets may be cut. Use only factory brackets, no extra steel or other material allowed as a bumper bracket. You may use either the factory brackets that came with the bumper, or you may use the factory brackets that came with the car, not both. Bumpers may have seams welded. Bumper chrome may be smashed down and welded to inner bumper support. Bumpers may be mounted upside down. Rear car bumpers allowed on the front. Front car bumpers allowed on the rear. Rear bumper brackets may only be used on the rear of the car. Front bumper brackets may only be used on the front of the car. No bracket may extend rearward more than 14 inches from the rear of bumper. This is measured at the factory mount surface. All brackets must make contact with the bumper.
2. Any car bumper allowed on any car.
3. Rear Bumpers, may have no more than four 3/8 chains or #9 wirefrom the rear bumper to car body, or trunk lid. Bumpers must have smooth edges.
4. Number 9 wire, you are allowed 2 spots no more than four wires thick from roof to frame
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Post by dough14 on Feb 4, 2015 11:55:24 GMT -5
Compact Rules
1. ALL RULES WILL BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NOT RUN.
2. Any compact car with the following specs; 105” Maximum Wheel Base for Rear Wheel Drive, 108” Maximum Wheel Base for Front Wheel Drive. Four Wheel drive cars must remove front drive shaft.
3. Drivers must be 18 years of age. Ages 16-17 must have a NOTARIZED permission slip and a valid driver’s license.
4. The person that signs in as the driver – must be the driver for the event.
5. Driver must wear a seat belt, helmet.
6. All Drivers and Crew Members must attend the drivers meeting.
7. No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle. This will be the quickest way to be DISQUALIFIED.
8. Any open door or fire will cause disqualification, for that heat, of that particular car not the team.
9. You are given 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that particular car will be disqualified, not the team. You are only given 1 minute in total, not 1 minute to get started and 1 minute to hit.
11. Cars will be re-inspected before any prize money is paid out. Everyone else will stay back until cars are deemed to be legal.
13. Any complaints that a driver has about another car prior to the start of the first heat will need to be addressed in the drivers meeting in specifics. If nothing is said, we don’t want to hear about it after the show.
14. any ?'s call
15. Judges decisions are FINAL!!!
Small Car wheelbase is 108" maximum no full frame CARS, compact trucks under 108” allowed, 6 cylinder maximum
CAGES & DOOR BARS:
- You may use channel or tubing up to 6" for the door bars. Total length is not to exceed 60". This bar may not be more than 18" behind the center post on 4 door cars and 10" behind the door seam on 2 door cars - no exceptions.
- Dash bar and seat bars may not exceed 5" diameter. Seat bar must be no further than 10" behind the seat. All bars must be straight pieces no contoured pieces.
- Sedans only, are allowed a gas tank protector, 24” X 6” inches, centered in the back seat area. There must be a 1” space between the back bar and all sheet metal, may not be attached to anything other than back seat bar. All interior sheet metal must remain in stock position. Do not pound!
- You may add a diagonal bar behind the driver’s seat and directly below the seat bar running from the seat bar to the floor sheet metal.
- Back bar may form an “X”
- You may add 4 VERTICAL down bars, welded to your cage and to the floor sheet metal or frame. These bars may not attach to or conceal a body mount.
- No kickers, angled or otherwise. NO cage components may be welded to the frame other than down bars and halo.
- All horizontal cage components must be at least 4" off the floor of the car, including gas tank protector, measured at the body bolt elevation.
- All cage components must be in the interior of the car, not inside the door structure with the exception of
the driver’s side. This door bar MAY be inside the door structure to allow more room for driver’s safety.
HALO OR ROLLOVER BARS:
- You may add a halo bar to the cage components listed above. It may not exceed 5" in diameter.
- On a 4-door post car, this bar must attach to the seat bar, no exceptions.
- On a 2-door or 4-door non-post car, this bar may be attached to the floor sheet metal or frame.
- Halo bars may NOT be angled toward the rear of the car. They must be vertical.
-You may bolt or weld the halo bar to the roof sheet metal in 4 places.
SKID PLATES:
- Skid plates are allowed. They must be separate plated for the engine and the transmission.
- NO full-length skid plates.
- NO bolting or welding the skid plated to the frame.
TRUNK LIDS:
- Trunk lids must remain 50% in the stock location. The trunk lid must remain on hinges.
- You may fasten your trunk lid in ALL OF THE FOLLOWING 3 ways:
- You may weld solid with 3" x 1/4" strap max.
- AND -You may weld 4 pieces of 5/8" all thread vertically to the rear frame rails and run them thru the trunk lid. No double nutting. You may use a 5" washer on the trunk lid bolts, plates may not be welded and must be free-floating.
- AND -You may place up to 16 - 3/8" bolts in the drip rail area of the trunk lid.
- There must be 12" minimum hole in the trunk lid for inspection purposes.
- Relocation of the speaker deck is not allowed it must remain in the stock location, no relocation of any sheet metal or components. Your trunk lid may be V’ed in the center.
- No fully wedged cars, rear quarters must remain vertical.
HOODS:
- Hoods may be bolted, wired or chained shut ONLY.
- You may use 8 bolts to hold the hood, may be 1" all thread max.
- The 2 front bolts may go thru the frame or welded vertically to the frame. The other 4 must be sheet metal to sheet metal.
- If you use chain or wire, you may weld up to 5" washers to the hood. If bolting, the 5" washers must be free floating.
-You may install up to 12 - 3/8" bolts or self tapping screws per hood cutout. Maximum of 3 cut outs. Maximum washer size is 1" diameter. Cutouts may be for header clearance, air breather clearance or radiator fill opening only. These bolts may NOT be installed in any area other than the immediate perimeter of the cut out.
- NO welding of cut outs is allowed.
- You must have a minimum 10" hole in the hood for fire protection.
- Hoods must be open at inspection time.
DOORS:
- Doors may be welded solid, outside only, 3" x 1/4" strap maximum.
-You may smash the inner and outer skin together and weld them solid, NO added metal. This includes wagon tailgates
- If you do not weld your doors you must chain or #9 wire them closed in at least 2 spots. You may NOT bolt your doors shut.
- Drivers door may have window netting for driver’s safety. NO other windows may have netting.
- You may weld a plate Maximum 6" x 1/4" across the front doors for protection, not to exceed 6" beyond the front door seams. NO GRADER BLADES. These plates must be in the center of the door, run horizontally.
- Wagon tail gates may be welded, 5 on 5 off, not solid, **OR** you may bolt the tailgate. 4 bolts, 4 nuts, 3/4” max **OR** you may weld 5” pieces of angle to the tailgate and quarters and use 3/4 “ max bolts.- pick 1 not all 3.
- Compact trucks may weld the cab to the bed on both sides the same as a door or trunk seam.
WINDOWS:
- You must have a piece of rebar/all thread/chain(3/8 max),#9 wire or 2”X1/4” straps running from the roof to the cowl in the windshield area for drivers protection, up to 2 pieces max. This may not be designed as reinforcement to the car and must be space at least 12 inches apart on the bottom, unless forming a “V” from A-pillar to A-pillar and no cross connections. No component may be welded within 6 inches of the DP.
- 2 rear window bars are allowed from roof sheet metal (not halo) to the trunk lid within 8” of the front trunk seam. 2” max diameter or 2”x2”
- You may use 2 loops, 4 strands of #9 wire total in each window opening. This wire may go to or around the frame.
- Wagons may not use wire in any window opening beyond the rear passenger door window opening.
OTHER:
- Body creasing, enhancing of existing body lines and addition of body lines is allowed to the sides of the car only.
- No doubling of body panels allowed, no added metal allowed
- Quarter panels must remain vertical.
- NO SEAM WELDING other than what is stated in these rules.
- Rewelding of body seam from the front of the a-arms forward only is allowed.
- Washers for #9 wire may be welded to the roof sheet metal. They may be a maximum of 1 ½" diameter. No washers may be welded for future wire installation.
- Holes may be cut in the floor & firewall to accommodate the shifter, fuel lines, and transmission lines.
- You may cut a hole in the firewall to accommodate the engine, within reason.
- You may have up to 8 - 3/8" bolts with 1¼” washers to bolt fenders together in each wheel opening.
- Excess front fender in front of radiator support may be cut off or folded over and bolted or welded back together. Four 3/8” bolts (1¼” washers) allowed per fender for this, no added metal.
- Sway bars may not be welded to frame, but brackets can.
ENGINES:
- no v8's, but it must be mounted within 5" of the original motor.
- You may chain the motor, 2 chains per side, 3/8 max.
- You may attached a strap on all four corners of engine going down to the frame, this strap may be welded directly to the top or side of the frame only, not to exceed 3/8” thick by 3” wide strap. The straps on the front of the motor cannot extend on the frame any more than 3” past the front of the head and cannot extend backwards at all. The straps on the rear of the motor cannot extend back on the frame any more than 3” past the back of the head and cannot extend forward at all. These straps can be connected from front to back, but the connection piece must be at least 3” from the frame and not to interfere with the A-Arm. Motor cradles are ok and can be welded to the cross member.
- You may weld in additional supports to the engine cradle area, but they may not be attached to the frame rails at any point. Only allowed for holding engine in place.
- No engine oil coolers are allowed.
- You must have an air cleaner over the carburetor at all times.
- No starting fluid is allowed.
- Allowed to secure K member in the following ways:
Remove pucks and bolt tight to frame, stock size bolts only.
Leave pucks in between and weld 4 - 3 inch welds, total (not per side) of 12 inches only with wire only NO filler.
DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTORS/CRADLES:
- If you run a DP do not mount your dash bar closer than 5 inches to the rear most point of the firewall fresh, YOU WILL NOT RUN.
-Distributor protectors allowed, must be attached to engine or transmission only, back side must be no wider than 12 inches, must not contact cage before the event. It may not be welded, bolted or connected to body, hood or frame.
- Aftermarket Distributor protectors, cradles and pulley protectors are allowed. These must be separate items and may not all be connected for a complete engine protector system. If you use a front plate it may not be gusseted to header flanges or other components in any manner with the exception to 4 cylinder motors. No “extreme” engine systems.
-You may beat flat the engine side of the firewall only, do not weld or bolt firewall. Do not re-enforce the firewall in any way.
TRANSMISSIONS:
- Transmissions must be of passenger car or truck origin, transmission coolers may be used, but they must be secured in such a way to prevent injury.
- Metal or braided lines must be used. No fuel or low-pressure lines may be used.
- Coolers must be secured in a container in the passenger compartment of the car.
- You can weld 2” angle iron no thicker than ¼”, and no longer than 6” to the side of the frame to support the cross member. If you pre-bend your frame, you may not use this angle iron to reinforce your bend.
REAR ENDS:
- You may use any type of rear end (Ford / Mopar / GM / Hybrid) but 5 lug max.
- You may tilt the rear end by lengthening or shortening the trailing arms. Trailing arms must be of passenger car origin and must operate. Trailing arms may be reinforced but must be OEM origin.
- Rear end braces are allowed, but they may serve no purpose other than to strengthen the rear end housing. They may not extend from the rear end further than 6” and may not be higher than the top of the housing.
BODY BOLTS:
- All body bolts may be replaced with up to 1" bolts, maximum 8" length.
- Core support bolts may be 1" diameter. Core support bolts may go thru the hood and count as 2 of your 8 hood bolts.
- You may use pipe up to 1 ½" OD to run the core support all thread thru. These pipes may be welded to the core support using 3/16" strapping, 2 -5" pieces max per pipe.
- Washers must be free floating inside the car and inside the frame on the bottom side.
- Do NOT weld the body washers to the floor. Maximum washer size is 6" x 1/4".
- Space must be maintained between the body and the frame; Minimum 3/4".
- You may add 2 body mounts in the position of your choice. They must be painted for easy viewing.
- If you decide to bolt your coil springs in place thru the frame and the rear package tray, these will count as your added mounts.
- Compact trucks may run one “washer” for both cab body mounts on the topside (inside the cab only). This strap washer may not be wider than 4” and may not extend more than 4” past the body mount hole in the front and 4” in the back. You may only have two of these washers inside the cab; one on the driver’s side and one on the passenger side.
RADIATORS:
- Radiator must be in the stock position in front of the motor.
- OEM style radiators only, no homemade tube construction radiators.
- You may not add cooling capacity. No supplemental cooling devices allowed.
-Radiators may be mounted in any of the following ways:
Ratchet straps
2-3/8” all thread front and back of radiator
Welding 2-1/8” X 3” to core support bolts
NO EXPANDING FOAM or you will not run
FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEMS: - No plastic gas tanks allowed. Marine tank or metal fuel tank only.
- 5+ gallon tank recommended. No coffins, be reasonable!
- Original gas tanks must be removed from the car, unless it is in front of the rear axle.
- You must have the gas tank securely mounted behind the driver’s seat and it must be covered.
- Fuel lines must run inside the car, not under the car along the frame.
- Fuel lines must be secured to the floor and kept from pinch points
- Automotive pump gas only, NO ALCOHOL.
- Electric fuel pumps are allowed. They must be covered and have an on/off switch near the steering wheel and clearly marked in large letters.
- All lines must be double clamped.
TIRES & BRAKES:
- No tires taller than 30". 4 wheels max per car. No duals.
- No split rims or studded tires, you may use aftermarket center with various bolt patterns, 8 inch max, 14 inch for mobile home tires.
- Valve stem protectors allowed, wheel weights must be removed.
- Doubled or foam filled tires OK - we don’t like flats!
- All cars must be able to demonstrate the ability to stop at any time. If your brakes do not work, you will not compete.
- You may not change tires after inspection; ride height will be measured with your competition tires only.
BATTERIES:
- A maximum of 2 - 12 volt batteries may be used.
- They must be secured inside the car in front of the passenger seat and covered.
- Rusted out holes in your floor sheet metal may be patched where components will be mounted or for drivers safety, sheet metal only. No other sheet metal patching is allowed unless it is a safety issue. You may not patch clean and solid floors.
- When patching you may NOT weld, you may bolt, self tap or pop rivet all patches. No patch may be attached to any vertical sheet metal (firewall); all must be patched or mounted in the horizontal floorboards only. Do not mount anything within 6 inches of any body bolt.
FRAMES:
- The only frame welding allowed is from the front of the a-arms forward, no more than a ½" wide bead.
- Pinch welds may be beat over and welded a-arms forward, no more than a ½” wide bead.
- The bumper strap to frame welding is covered in the bumper section.
- NO other frame welding is allowed. No plating, stuffing, heat treating or foam filling of frames is allowed. Do NOT paint or undercoat your frame or you will not even be inspected and loaded.
- You may weld your motor mounts to the engine cradle.
- Rear frame rails may not be shortened. No dowel pinning of the frame is allowed.
- You may notch the frame for minimal pre-bending, but do NOT weld the cut.
- You may run a chain or cable or #9 wire from rear rail to rear rail behind the rearend. 3/8" chain maximum.
- You may chain or wire your rearend to the frame. You may NOT use strapping of any kind for this. Wire or chain only. 3/8" chain maximum. Chain must go around frame on full frame cars, do not bolt through the frame creating a frame pin. Uni-body cars may use 1 bolt per side thru the frame for this.
- You may not weld the chain links to create a bar effect.
- There is no frame shaping allowed at all. Do not sharpen the corners of the frame or square them in any way. The frame humps above the rear tires may be beat in for a distance of 8” in each direction from the center of the hump. That is the ONLY frame shaping that is allowed.
- Used or Pre-ran cars may fix ripped, torn, bent, or twisted frames.
- Used cars will be allowed a total of 16” x 4” x ¼” repair plate per frame rail divided however you want.
BUMPERS, BUMPER BRACKETS:
-You must start with a stock/replacement bumper but you are allowed to re-enforce inside or the backside between the shock mounts. Bumper re-enforcement may not be done in any way to stop frame bending. Bumper must appear stock from the stands, no spike or protruding items.
- Bumpers are interchangeable for all cars.
- You may weld the bumper seams, the shocks and weld any OEM car brackets to the frame. *OR* you may weld 16” of 3/8” X 3” flat plate from the bumper back if you decide not to run bumper brackets. Must have 2-1” holes cut in plate at third way points to prove thickness.
- If you choose not to use brackets, you may weld your bumper directly to the frame.
- You may not weld the bumper to the body at any time.
- Bumpers may be cut to keep them out of the tires.
- Bumpers may be flipped (upside down).
- Compression bumper shocks may be drained, slid back into the shock and welded fully.
- All bumper brackets and shock components must be OEM automotive materials.
- REAR bumper brackets may not be welded more than 8” onto the frame rail.
- You may run 4 loops of #9 wire from the radiator support to the bumper in 2 locations *OR* You may weld 2-3/8” max chain to bumper and bolt to the car A-arms forward to hold bumper on. If these act to strengthen the car in any way, they will be removed.
- You may weld a 2" x 8" x 1/4" strap from the bumper to the frame to help keep the bumper on the car. This must remain in one piece. It cannot be angled to the corner of the bumper to form a kicker. 8" is the maximum length.
SUSPENSION, SPRINGS:
- Coil to leaf conversions allowed.
- You may change coil springs.
- You may weld, bolt or chain down your a-arms. You are allowed either two 1” straps, **OR** one chain **OR** one bolt per side.
-A-arms may be reinforced.
- You may reinforce your tie rods, but you must use the OEM tie rod ends.
- Pipe Tie Rods are allowed but you must use the stock ends, no aftermarket hiems.
- Steering wheel to Steering gearbox may be modified.
- After market steering columns allowed.
- Air shock lines must be cut.
LEAF SPRINGS:
- 7 leaf maximum, 3/8" maximum thickness, 2 ½" wide maximum.
- Stagger - 2" long side (rear of axle), 2” short side (front of axle).
- 6 clamps per spring, minimum of 2 in front of the axle.
- Clamp material 1/4" thick, 2" wide, 2 – 3/8" bolts per clamp.
- U-bolts – ½” maximum, stock mounting plates must be used.
- Shackles and perches may be welded or bolted to the frame.
- No homemade or oversized u-bolts will be allowed.
- No welding on the spring pack.
- No flat sprung cars - leaf pack must have a minimum of 2" of arch.
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Post by dough14 on Feb 4, 2015 12:06:19 GMT -5
Limited Weld Rules
1. ALL RULES WILL BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NOT RUN.
2. Any American make car can run with the following exceptions. No 2003 and newer FoMoCo frames. No 1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Imperial sub-frames, 4x4’s, ambulance, hearses, trucks, limousines, etc…
3. Drivers must be 18 years of age. Ages 16-17 must have a NOTARIZED permission slip and a valid driver’s license.
4. The person that signs in as the driver – must be the driver for the event.
5. Driver must wear a seat belt, helmet.
6. All Drivers and Crew Members must attend the drivers meeting.
7. No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle. This will be the quickest way to be DISQUALIFIED.
8. Any open door or fire will cause disqualification, for that heat, of that particular car not the team.
9. You are given 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that particular car will be disqualified, not the team.
10. No drivers are allowed alcohol - period. If you are wearing a drivers band and drinking any form of Alcohol -YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED.
11. Cars will be re-inspected before any prize money is paid out. The cars will be re-inspected by the head judges, and Sam Williams only. Everyone else will stay back until cars are deemed to be legal.
12. There is a $250.00 protest fee, and you must be a driver in the main event to protest another driver’s car. Driver must have cash in hand directly after the feature in order to protest. If the car is found to be illegal the car and driver will be escorted off the grounds and will not receive any prize money.
13. Any complaints that a driver has about another car prior to the start of the first heat will need to be addressed in the drivers meeting in specifics. If nothing is said, we don’t want to hear about it after the show.
14. Any questions, give us a calll. If these rules or a phone call to us does not say you can do it THEN DON’T. We can’t stress enough to call first.
15. Judges decisions are FINAL!!!
Car Preparation
**No Fresh Paint or Under coating on Frame**
1. All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
2. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
3. Tires no bigger than 15 inch, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or doubled tires are ok – we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims.
4. Use motor and tranny of choice, motor must be in stock location. You may chain or weld motor and tranny to keep in place, but don’t strategically strengthen the frame. The engine mounts may only attach to the engine cross member.
5. You must run the transmission cross member in the stock location you can weld 2” angle iron no thicker than 3/16”, no longer than 6” to the side of the frame to support the cross member. If you pre-bend your frame do not use angle iron to re-support the bent area. The transmission cross member is the only method my which the transmission may be tied in.
6. Use rear end of choice, but must be no more than 8 lugs. You can tilt rear end if you wish. Welded or posi-track highly recommended. Back braces are welcome.
7. You must use a radiator and it must be in stock location.
8. All cars must have working brakes.
9. A-arms, ball joints, and tie-rods ends must remain stock. Tie rod tubes may not be reinforced in any way.
10. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
11. Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell, and it must be properly secured and covered. Only metal tanks may be used. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat use to be.
12. Transmission coolers are allowed, but must be safe and properly secured.
13. Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and covered.
14. You must have a number in Bright colors on each front door and must have a 15”x15” sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car.
Car Building
1. NO welding will be allowed on any part of the body or frame unless specified in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you will not run – this is a stock no-weld class. IF YOUR CAR IS FOUND TO HAVE WELD ANYWHERE OTHER THAN SPECIFIED AND IT CANNOT BE FIXED PROPERLY WITH A TORCH YOU will not run! I'm allowing 24 inches of frame welding per frame rail from the firewall forward. And that's frame not welding a-arms!
2. All doors may be welded or chained shut. Driver’s door may be welded inside and outside. If chained six chains per side for a four-door car. Four chains per side for a two-door car. No chains longer than 3’. Do not wrap chains around cage. If welded strap no larger than 3”x1/8” flat strap may be used weld 5 leave 5 and only outside of doors may be welded.
3. For driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X do not connect directly to frame, and you may also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your dash area to replace your dash .You may run a bar connecting the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front doors only. You may weld two down bars from the cage to the frame vertically or to the floor to protect batteries and your feet. These down bars must remain behind the inside door seem and may only be welded to the top side of the frame. These bars cannot not exceed 2”x3”. You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be welded or bolted to the roof. You may also weld a steering column to the cage. Back of cage including roll bar has to be placed: Ford and GM - a minimum of 5” in front of the center of the rear seat body mount. Mopars are allowed to run a 1” bolt with a 5" plate on both sides (frame and body) in the front most frame hole in the rear frame. Gas tank protector is ok nothing wider than 24 inches.
Please reinforce your driver’s door very good, in this type of competition all drivers doors will take some type of hit during the event. We want you to be safe and protected behind your reinforcement.
All Cage material cannot extend further forward than 6” behind the flat part of the firewall directly behind the engine.
4. Bumpers are interchangeable. No homemade bumpers or reinforcements. You may weld the chrome solid to the backing. You can either run the factory bumper bracket that matches the bumper or one that matches the car no exceptions! You can weld the bumper brackets to the frame and and the bumpers to the brackets. Weld them good we don't want them falling off!! No added filler material to weld them.
5. Trunks – May have 6 fastening points, if you run the trunk hinges these count as two fastening points. You may also have 2-1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame, MUST go through body mount hole, and you must have a spacer between the body and frame, this will count as two of the six fastening points. If you are running the trunk hinges you may be chain from sheet metal to sheet metal in two other locations. If you do not run trunk hinges you can chain in four locations. Chryslers can either go through the frame or weld all thread to side of frame but the all thread must be vertical. Trunk lid must be open for inspection!
6. You can fold hoods or trunk lid over, but 60% of the hood/trunk lid must be factory location. Do not slide your hood or trunk forward or back this would mean that 0% would be in the factory location. 7. Hood must have at least a 12 inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washer a maximum of 6 per hole. If you choose to cut one large hole in your hood you may weld it or bolt it back together with 3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washers a maximum of 10 per hole. You are allowed 6 spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of 4 tie down spots. You may have up to 1” all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame, but must go through the front body mounts. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only!
7. You may have plates for hood tie down, not to exceed 5x5x1/4”square or 6” x1/4” round. If you use the stock hood hinges these count as two fastening points.
8. Body mount bolts may be replaced with a 3/4in bolt and two inch washer on top and bottom. You must put a 1” spacer between the frame and body. You may use a 5”x5”x1/4” plates. The radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid and if you choose to run the 1” all thread through the trunk it may be modified according to rule #5. Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added. Do not add bolts, wire, chain, or cable in any fashion from the body to the frame other than stated in these rules. Chrysler k-member cars – do not remove the rubber pucks between the frame and the k-frame.
9. You can patch rust holes on the floor boards of the car with sheet metal only, no other patching without permission. Do not cut rust out; weld 2” beyond rust. If your frame is rusted through, call for instructions on how to the fix the rust hole. Do not fix it without calling and expect us to allow you to run it.
10. Suspension must be stock height. Leaf springs must be stock and made of stock spring material, with a 1”stagger and no springs can be as long as the main leaf. The main leaf must be the top spring in the spring pack and leaf springs must go down from longest to shortest in minimum 1” stagger. You can re-clamp springs, 4 clamps per side. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4”. You can put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other ways except spacers in or on the springs. You can bolt or wire coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out. Coil springs may be doubled and tied together in no more than two spots. Do not weld the coil springs together if you double them. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them from becoming unbolted. You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8” chain or 4 loops of #9 wire) from rear end to frame in 1 spot on each side. You cannot leaf non-leaf cars. No solid suspension.
11. Rear end control arms must remain stock.
12. Steering/suspension must be remain stock unless noted.
13. You can run shifter through the floor, and you can have a switch panel. If you are running an electric fuel pump, it must be hooked up to your ignition switch, so when your car shuts off so does the fuel pump.
14. You may alter your steering column to prevent steering loss.
15. You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with 5 -3/8” bolts or less with 1.25” diameter washers. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the core support do not bolt them back to the core support of fender.
16. For safety, you must have 2 bars in windshield from roof to dash for safety reasons. Bars may not exceed 3”x3/8” flat strap, and may only have 3” on the roof and 3” on dash or cowl. Bars may be tied together but may not be tied to the cage. They must attach to sheet metal only.
17. No distributor protectors, transmission braces, skid plates, or mid plates.
18. No radiator guards
19. I know how difficult the distributor protectors are to take on and off, so if you leave it on your engine you must cut the firewall at least 3 inches wider on each side and remove it. This go's for mid plates as well.
Wagons
1. All rear decking must be removed from all wagons.
2. You may chain humps.
3. Rear side windows can have #9 wire with 4 loops of wire (no cable or chain) in one location going down to sheet metal
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Post by dough14 on Feb 4, 2015 12:23:49 GMT -5
Youth mowers 10-16 years old
Mowers must be a factory type lawn mower or garden mower prepared to these rules! RULES WILL BE ENFORCED!!!!!!!!!! Basic Lawn Mower Building Rules 1.Only front mounted motors are allowed on mowers. No rear mounted motors allowed. 2. Must be a factory lawn mower engine, Briggs & Straton, Tecumseh, Onan, etc. 3. No zero turn mowers allowed. 4. Only belt driven mowers allowed. 5. Electric start mower preferred, you must be able to start your mower from your seat. No lying across the hood of your mower to start it. 6. Battery and fuel tank cannot be in front of the motor. They both must be securely attached. Gas tanks must have a cap. Any mower leaking fuel or that is not safe will be disqualified for that heat. 7. All plastic, lights must be removed. Mower decks must be removed. 8 .All mowers must have a factory hood & Factory fenders. Plastic hoods may be replaced with Sheet metal hoods. Hoods must be secured by bolting, chaining, shut. 9. Engine bay area may be reinforced, But MUST be contained inside of the hood & maintain factory body lines. 10. All mowers must have Leg and feet guards installed. These guards must be built to protect feet and legs. The out side of guards must be covered with sheet metal. They may be welded or bolted to rear fenders and front frame and foot rest area. These guards must be built safe. Any mower with an unsafe leg guard or any guard that falls off during event will be disqualified or not allowed to participate. 11. A back seat bar is allowed. This is to protect the back of seat. This bar may be mounted to the rear fenders of the mower. 12. CLEAN UP YOUR WELDS!! We do not want any participants cut from nasty welds!! 13. Frames must be stock. Frames may have repair welds. Frames may have added metal to attach bumpers. 14. Spark plug and carburetor protectors are allowed. 15. Exhausts must not extend out from mower hood area. Must be safe! We do not want any burns! No Stacks! 16 .All mowers must use factory lawn mower type wheels. Rear wheels (rims) may not be any larger than 12 inches in diameter. Tractor treads and cut tires, atv tires are permitted. Air in tires only ! (no foam filled tires) 17. No dual wheels allowed. No wheel covers, wheel weights or chains are allowed. 18. Tubes, Slime, and other sealants are allowed. No foam filled tires allowed. You are allowed to glue or screw tires to rim. 19. Modification or replacement of the drive pulleys is allowed, BUT All mowers must be safe and participate at a safe speed. Official decision is final. 20. Transaxles must be factory available transaxles, but reinforcing and/or welding of spider gears is allowed. 21. Bumpers. All Bumpers (front and rear) must be safe! No pointed or jagged bumpers. Bumpers may not exceed 3 inches by 3inches and no wider than the inside of wheels. 22. No grill guards on front of mower. All reinforcing must be behind sheet metal & contained inside the hood area. 23. No kickers or braces from front bumper to leg guards. 24. Mowers may have steering altered or reinforced, BUT modifications must be kept to a minimum. (call first) 25. All mowers must have a number painted on side or back. 26. All Drivers must wear a helmet. All other ground rules and event rules will be gone over in the drivers meeting. Officials decision is final.
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Post by crusher71 on Feb 5, 2015 16:35:31 GMT -5
SO, BY "NEW GUYS" YOU MEAN SAM WILLIAMS IS PUTTING IT ON...............RIGHT.....
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Post by dough14 on Feb 6, 2015 11:16:15 GMT -5
SO, BY "NEW GUYS" YOU MEAN SAM WILLIAMS IS PUTTING IT ON...............RIGHT..... No Sam Williams has nothing to do with it. I Brent sleezer is putting in on.
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jmac1
Sandbagger
Posts: 17
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Post by jmac1 on Mar 31, 2015 10:18:08 GMT -5
There aren't that many differences in your "hobo" and limited weld rules. Might have a better turnout if the money and rules were combined.
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Post by dough14 on Aug 3, 2015 21:51:56 GMT -5
I guess I didn't put in the rules if your car frame is bent you can put a plate the same thickness of the frame on it. Max 2 plates per frame rail 4inx6in. This applies to hobo and limited weld. Sorry for the late notice but was just brought to my attention
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jmac1
Sandbagger
Posts: 17
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Post by jmac1 on Aug 4, 2015 20:16:29 GMT -5
Hobo and limited weld have to cut firewall out?
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Post by dough14 on Aug 5, 2015 23:12:11 GMT -5
Hobo and limited weld have to cut firewall out? Yes
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Post by greenphantom on Aug 9, 2015 14:11:46 GMT -5
Good Show Brent. Good number of cars and good hard hitting show. Looks like Garnett derby on the upswing.
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