Post by cutit on Feb 26, 2019 9:59:22 GMT -5
Overbrook Spring Derby; Saturday, April 13, 2019 @ 5:00 PM
*Rain out date will be Saturday, May 11
**Inspections begin at 11:00 am and close at 3:00 pm**
Full size weld payouts:
1st Place $2,500
2nd place $1,500
3rd place $1,000
4th place $750
5th Place $500
6th place $250
Bone stock compact payouts:
1st place $1,000
2nd place $750
3rd place $500
4th place $250
Full Size DP Rules
*
ALL RULES WILL BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NOT RUN!!! If a car does not pass inspection or the driver can’t/won’t fix car within time allowed to pass inspection, driver will NOT receive a refund of entry. Bring your car built to the rules!
IF ANYTHING IS FOUND IN CAR, FRAME/BODY OR HIDDEN THAT IS NOT ALLOWED IN THESE RULES YOU WILL NOT BE ALLOWED TO FIX IT AND WILL BE LOADED AND LOSE YOUR ENTRY FEE!!! DON’T JUST ASSUME WE WILL ALLOW YOU TO RUN!
Any American-made car will be allowed with the exception of the following:
No 2003 or newer Ford Motor Company frames (Ford, Mercury, Lincoln).
No 1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Imperial sub frames, 4x4’s, ambulances, hearses, trucks,limos,anything classified as a truck, etc..
The person that signs in as the driver of that car must run that car. NO changing drivers of cars or letting someone else drive. Car and driver qualify together.
The driver must wear seat belt and helmet. Fire jacket and eye protection is recommended.
All drivers must attend the drivers meeting.
No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle. This will be the quickest way to be DISQUALIFIED or escorted off the property.
Any open door or gas fire will cause disqualification, for that heat or feature.
You are given 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that particular car will be disqualified.
No drivers are allowed alcohol- period! If you are wearing a drivers band and drinking any form of alcohol, YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED. Drivers, keep your pit crew under control, fairboard has the right to have anyone at anytime escorted off the premises and could result in a disqualification of the driver..
Any questions, call Luke (785) 393-1762
Judges decisions are FINAL!!
***LIMITED WELD RULES***
**No fresh paint, undercoating or any other hiding tricks on frame**
All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
NO welding will be allowed on any part of the body or frame unless specified in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction you will not run. IF YOUR CAR IS FOUND TO HAVE WELD ANYWHERE OTHER THAN SPECIFIED AND IT CANNOT BE FIXED PROPERLY WITH A TORCH within the time allowed you will not run!
All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
Tires no bigger than 16 inch. No split rims, no steel studded tires. If you are running a foam filled tire or any tire that may be coming apart during the derby and a hazard to crowd you may be disqualified!
Engines and transmissions may be interchanged and engine mounts may be fabricated and welded as long as it does not strategically reinforce the frame, “A” frames, or shock towers. Must be mounted within 5" of stock location on factory engine crossmember only. You can build or weld factory mount/pad but Nothing over 6’’x6’’ mounting pad and can only be welded on the frame cross member, CANNOT extend up into spring pocket,frame rail or shock tower! Also allowed two 2"x8"x3/8" flat strap to retain engine but must be located within factory engine cradle area and not to strengthen frame. One 3/8” chain per side of engine to frame. Only 2 links can be welded to frame rail on top side of frame and no chain past back of engine block.
Transmission must be able to move on trans crossmember. May build your own crossmember but no more than 6" of weld allowed to mount it on each frame rail.
You can run a shifter, throttle cable, etc. through floor but keep safety in mind.. If you are running an electric fuel pump, you must have it wired to main switch so that when switched off your fuel pump will shut off.
****** PAY ATTENTION HERE IF YOU ARE RUNNING PROTECTORS!!!!*******
Distributor protectors, lower engine cradles, pulley protectors and transmission protectors allowed.
DP must be attached to engine or transmission only. Back side of DP must be no wider than 12 inches. Forward supports must be inside normally positioned headers and not extend past the water pump.
Firewall may be beat flat on engine side but do not bolt,weld or do any other reinforcements inside or to firewall.
DP may not be welded, bolted or connected to body, hood or frame.
NO removable/adjustable plates from dash bar to dash or DP at ANY POINT. Dash bar and dp must remain the same throughout derby from time of inspection till end of derby. DO NOT add anything between dash bar and dp to fill the gap at anytime before or throughout derby!!
Transmission protectors allowed and can only be mounted to transmission and DP, cannot connect to engine cradle.
Must use stock transmission crossmember for car being ran. Transmission crossmember is for just that!!
Transmission must be free floating on crossmember mounted either by a factory mount or by the 2 chains around tailshaft.
*****If you do NOT use a carb/ distributor protector or mid plate of any kind or have a car with firewall fully cut out, you may do the following:
Weld one 2" MAX diameter round or square tubing STRAIGHT from your dash bar to the top side of the frame not to extend any further forward than 4" behind the rear side of the upper a-arm mount. You can have one 3x3x1/4" plate on each end of each bar, no bends to the bar, only part of the bar that can contact frame/cage is the 3"x3" plate that's welded to the end of the bar. 1 bar per side drivers/passengers. IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS ON THIS CALL!!!!!
Use rear end of choice factory 8 lug or less. You can tilt rear end if you wish by shortening or lengthening of stock oem car origin control arms. Control arms must work w/ factory bushings. Control arms may be reinforced. Welded or posi-track highly recommended. Braced rear ends are welcome but must only be used to strengthen rear end housing only! Braces cannot extend further back than 6’’ from back of housing and cannot be any taller than top of factory housing. NO frame supports or pushers! Judge will have final call on this if you have something more on rear end than what is designed to strengthen housing! Pinion brakes and axle protectors ok. Suspension must be stock for the car model you are running! No homemade suspension.
Rear-leaf springs must be stock for the model you are running. 9 leaf max! Main leaf must be the top leaf in pack and other leafs following from longest to shortest with a minimum of 2” stagger from leaf to leaf. 4 leaf springs clamps per leaf pack 2”x4’’x¼” max. Coil sprung rear ends may clamp in coils springs to the rear end housing only to keep from losing them. 1 loop of 3/8’’ chain or cable per side of rear end is allowed from frame to rear end. NO bolting through frame to create a pin and no welding chain to frame, must go over or around frame. Do not weld chain links to create a bar affect. NO SOLID REAR SUSPENSION, must have bounce! No solid shocks or adjusters. No leaf conversions!
**WATTS LINK CONVERSIONS- Only means of doing this is:
**Lower control arm brackets you can cut ones off a older ford of same model. If you make your own they must be of same thickness material as frame and can be no larger than 6’’x6’’ and mounted in the same way and location as the older crown vics were mounted.. Absolutely no moving bracket up on down leg of rear hump to strengthen the frame!!
**Upper control arm brackets can be homemade, but if homemade they can only be bolted in on the package tray only not to frame rail or body and a max size of 6’’x6’’ on mounting plate.
You can also cut a old package tray out of a older car of same make and model and weld in place of the original package tray. No excessive welding! One pass of weld only where factory weld was! No welding frame seams in the process.
Judges have final say on how this is done so don’t push your luck! If anything is done outside of how the factory did it, you will not be allowed to run..
Front- no homemade suspension or mounts!! Do not move a-arm mounts or add any material to them! When bolting a-arms to frame only bolt it on w/ factory size of bolt and as factory would have mounted it. NO BOLTING as to create the effect of a pin! Do not mount a-arm in any way to help strengthen frame or spring pocket! The ONLY means of welding on front suspension is to raise front end in this way… I will allow a MAX of 2- 3’’x3’’x¼’’ plates per a-arm. DO NOT WELD A-ARM SOLID!! Must be welded on a-arm at the ball joint area to the frame. Sway bars must remain stock, located in stock location and only bolted to frame/a-arm, DO NOT WELD them to frame. You can cut them out if you wish or if they are gonna come in contact with pulley protector they will need to be cut out.
** If anything is done outside of what we want, you WILL cut or fix it.. Have ??’s CALL.
Slider driveshafts are welcome!!
All cars must have working brakes!
All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell, and it must be properly secured and covered. Only metal tanks may be used. No tanks larger than 24’’ wide or long. NO PLASTIC TANKS.. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly in side of car only, DO NOT mount under car. Double clamp all full lines recommended. Keep away from exhaust or sharp pinch points. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat use to be. NO ALCOHOL. Tank protectors will be allowed in sedans only. Only attach to the backseat bar and rear seat area sheet metal. No more than 24” wide at any point. Must run horizontal to the floor pan directly straight off back seat bar to rear seat sheet metal…Gas tank protector can only form a square around the tank, do not weld any down bars or such from it..
If you have questions call!
Transmission coolers are allowed, but must be safe and properly secured.
Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and covered. Max of 2 batteries.
You must have a number in bright colors on each front door and must have a 15” x 15” sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car.
All doors may be welded or chained shut. Driver’s door may be welded solid inside and outside, no more than 6’’ past front or back of drivers door.. If chained must use minimum of 2 chains per door, max of six chains per side for a four-door car. Four chains per side for a two-door car. No chains longer than 3’. IF welded, strap no larger than 3” x 1/8” flat strap may be used. No other filler! Top of door skins may be welded together without any filler material. This includes wagon gates..
** Make sure you reinforce the drivers door well. This is a derby it could get hit. We all know in this sport it will happen so expect it, we will not stop the show for minor door hits! Definitely if you use it for defensive driving! Use your door for defensive driving and you could be the one DQ’d!! NO GRADER BLADES!!!!!
Trunks and wagon gates Can be welded shut along factory seam with 3"X1/8" flat strap. No added metal in gutter!! Can use 2-1” all threads with 5” x 5” washers on top side of trunk lid and can go through frame with 1” washer inside frame. Chryslers can weld all thread to the side of the frame 3‘’ max on frame. All thread must be run vertically. Cut off any excess! All trunk lids must have a 12” x 12” hole for inspection. You may bolt sheet metal back together around hole with 6- 3/8” bolts/washers. You can fold or tuck trunk lid but 50% of the trunk lid must be in factory location.
Hoods- Must be open for inspection. Must have at least a 12” square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolts and washers. A maximum of 6 per hole. If you choose to cut one large hole in your hood you may weld it or bolt it back together with 12-3/8” bolts and washers. You are allowed 6 spots to hold the hood on; minimum of 4. You may have up to 1” all-thread, only 2 may go through factory frame/core support mount hole. All others must be sheet metal to sheet metal and ran vertically. Cut off access all -thread. No plates larger than 5” x 5”. No hood bolts longer than 10”, other than core support bolts. If for some reason you can not run a hood, the fan blade must be removed or belt cut.
For driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X but do not connect to frame. Only to sheet metal! You may also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your dash area to replace your dash. You may run a bar connecting the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front doors only. You may weld two vertical down bars from the cage to the floor pan or frame no more than 3" diameter to protect batteries and your feet. These down bars MUST remain within the inside front door seems and may only be welded to the top side of floor pan sheet metal or top of frame. This is the ONLY part of cage that can connect to frAme. You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the rear seat bar and/or to the floor sheet metal or top side of frame only 3" max and may be attached to roof with two 3/4” bolts max and four 5” x 5” plates max. No part of cage or roll bar can be rearward past rear seat body mount. ROLL BAR MUST BE MOUNTED VERTICAL, no laying it back towards rear of car.
All cage material must be straight and not exceed 3’’x3’’square or 3’’ round. Front of cage cannot extend further forward than 6" from dash sheet metal in center of dash(behind DP) and no further back than body mount inside rear door or back seat area. ONLY the Gas Tank protector can extend rearward past the rear seat body mounts…
**THIS YR HOMEMADE BUMPERS ALLOWED BUT MUST BE REASONABLE! Bumpers are interchangeable. Weld them good we don’t want them falling off!! No added filler material to weld them. Don’t push your luck! Ask if you have a question on this. No homemade brackets or shocks. Only cars that originally had shocks mounted inside frame may have shocks mounted inside frame..
**Absolutely NO brackets further back than 14’’ from back of bumper, any excess will be cut off! So if you find a bracket of some sort that is longer than 14” it must be shortened!
**In addition to this I will allow… One 6’’x4’’x¼’’ max plate per frame rail to help attach bumper to frame. It MUST be welded directly off back side of bumper to side of frame front and rear of car. if welded on bottom side it must have a 1‘’ hole in plate if it covers a body mount hole. If you have these plates on your car they must be welded to bumper as intended for or they will be cut off. They are to help keep bumper on not to strengthen frame.
You may also weld Two 2’’x¼’’ flat strap from bumper to core support and Two on rear bumper to trunk lid.. Max of 36’’ long. Bumper to sheet metal only and ran vertically..
#9 WIRE UNLIMITED. If you go to frame it can only be at one end, other end needs to go thru sheet metal only.. In addition to that you can have 2 places per window opening sheet metal to sheet metal. You can weld a 1” washer MAX to the sheet metal to run the wire thru to prevent ripping. NO larger plates at all!! And no adding washers for later use. 4 loops of wire twisted max!
Body mount bolts may be replaced. NO MOVING BODY MOUNT LOCATIONS including the front core support mounts! You can suck body to frame but no welding body to frame at any point. If you use spacers at body mounts they CANNOT be any more than 3‘’ diameter round pipe! Body bolts may be up to 1’’diameter and 8’’ long max all thread other than the 2 core support and two trunk/wagon gate all threads.
Washer on bottom side MUST be inside frame 1“ max! (do not obstruct view of body mount hole or you will cut it out!) Top side of floor pan you may have 5”x5”x¼” plate only! Radiator support can be sucked down to frame without spacer. If you use spacer at core support such as in tilting fords you can only use 3” max diameter pipe directly over top of body mount hole! DO NOT WELD TO FRAME!!! Absolutely NO adding or moving any body mounts locations!! Do not add any bolts,wire,cable,weld,chain etc in any fashion from the body to frame other than stated in these rules!
Mopars are allowed to run 1” bolt with a 5” plate on both sides (frame and body) in the front most frame hole in the rear frame (rear seat area).
You can repair floor pan rust with sheet metal only! 2” past where rust stops, do not cut out the rust! No other patching without permission!! I will not allow full plated pillar repair!! No layering/overlapping of sheet metal! If you just show up with repairs and they are more than needed don’t just expect us to allow you in w/ it. Frame rust and repair will follow up in rules…
Fender wells may be cut for clearance. You will be allowed 12-3/8"bolts/washers per front fender and rear quarter.
For safety you must have 2 flat straps in windshield area from roof to cowl. Sheet metal to sheet metal only. Do not weld more than 6‘’ on each end.. Strap must not exceed 3’’x¼” flat strap. If you do not weld strap on you can use 2 spots of chain,wire,cable.. Do not attach to cage, roll bar, engine protector etc… If bars are used to strengthen car in any way they will be cut or fixed..
Radiators must be factory oem style for model of car you run and in factory location. Aluminum aftermarket ones are ok. NO redibarrels or custom steels tank style radiators.
NO RADIATOR GUARDS or expanded metal! You can use A/C condenser in front of radiator. You can use two 3/8” or smaller all threads or two ratchet straps around radiator to help hold it in. nothing more. Minimal expanding foam, only to keep radiator from moving side to side. No filling holes.
WAGONS: All rear decking/spare tire cover MUST be removed. NO SEDAGONS!!
Body predenting, prebending, creasing is allowed but do not roll body’s seams to make multiple layers. No welding on body other than what is stated in rules, that includes NO SEAM WELDING… Rear quarter panels and taillight panel must stay in factory upright position.. Do not lay them over.. No full wedge trunks.. You may fold, tuck, dimple, U-shape trunk lid..
Frames: The ONLY welding allowed other than what has been specified in the rules is:
You can weld frame seams top and bottom from the factory location of transmission cross- member to the front bumper. FRAME SEAMS ONLY! ½’’ wide bead max. Do not weld anything else or you will cut!
You can tilt front ends at the FACTORY firewall frame seam or crush box only! The only means of doing this is by cutting factory weld, tilting and rewelding factory frame seam. NO ADDED METAL!!
This is the same method to be used to RESTUB front frames.. IF you restub a front frame it MUST be chevy to chevy, Cadillac to Cadillac, ford to ford, etc and of same year.. No stubbing old cars with newer subs, etc and NO 03 and newer Ford Motor Company frames or front stubs… If you have a question on restubbing call!
Shocks,brackets and bumpers can be welded solid to frame with NO added material.
ATTENTION HERE ON FRAME PLATING! Can be on fresh or preran cars.. The only means of plating that I will allow will be:
(16) 4'’x4’’x¼’’ plates TOTAL on car. Max of 6 plates for a total of 32" per frame rail(side of car)! Must be welded to outside of frame. YOU CAN ONLY HAVE A MAX OF 16 PLATES OR LESS TOTAL ON YOUR FRAME!! DO NOT SHOW UP WITH MORE! If you have more than that on your frame have the ones you wish not to run cut of BEFORE you show up.. Be easier to have done beforehand than doing it at the track and risking chance of not getting to run…
Pinch frame cars may beat over front frame seams and weld down. No added material.
Rear frame rails may be notched or prebent.
No shortening of rear frame rails.
Front frame rails can be shortened up to front of core support mounting hole but DO NOT move factory Core support mounting bracket or hole!!
No added material to frame of any kind other than what is listed in these rules!
You may run one chain or cable from frame rail to frame rail behind rear end housing. 3/8’’ max.
NO FULL FRAME SHAPING. Do not square corners,reshape, etc unless it is to fix damaged frame. The only thing allowed will be minimal dimpling of the rear frame humps above the rear tires.
K-frame cars can fold over one side of front frame rail ears, not both and weld down with no added metal.
Y-frame(73 and older) mopars can close in the front frame opening by core support in this way only… You can weld a ¼’’ plate top and bottom of frame and can only go 1’’ past the original opening of the frame.. All four plates MUST have a 1” hole cut in the center of plate before you show up!! If you have questions on this CALL.
Bone Stock Compact Rules
General Rules:
108" AND UNDER FWD AND RWD COMPACT TYPE CARS NO FULL FRAME CARS
1. Official’s decision is final.
2. No profanity allowed on the cars. No one under the influence of drugs or alcohol will be allowed to participate. Classless behavior will not be tolerated.
3. Driving:
You must make aggressive contact with another live car in less than one minute.
If you do not make aggressive enough hits, we will let you know.
No intentional driver door hits.
Depending on the severity of the hit, we may simply warn you, or we may break your stick.
If you use your driver’s door to block another car, do not expect that car to be disqualified for the driver’s door hit.
Official’s decision final.
4. During competition stay in the car. Keep your helmet on. Keep your hands and arms inside the car.
5. During competition, no driver, pitmen, or spectators shall approach the officials. Classless behavior will not be tolerated. Official’s decision is final.
6. If you are black-flagged (for example a door hit), you finish in that spot, not last, and receive that place trophy and winnings, if any.
7. Cars may be disqualified at any time. We will re-inspect the top five after the derby is over. IF a car is found to be illegal, it will be disqualified and finish last.
8. NO BITCH RULE!
9. Anything can be done to drivers door for safety, a bar behind the seat from door to door allowed. A simple halo/rollover loop off of the seat bar to roof allowed.
CAR PREP & BUILD:
1. Overall condition must be safe. This applies to used cars as well as some fresh cars. IF the officials deem the car unsafe to run, it will not run.
2. Fire jacket highly recommended. Long pants are required. Eye protection and gloves highly recommended. Shoes are required.
3. Minimum of D.O.T. rated helmet required. Full-face helmets recommended.
4. Seat belts are required, must be functional, and fastened to the floor or seat bracket. Official’s decision is final.
5. Car must be fully stripped of all flammable material. Factory seats and factory dash are allowed. All, chrome, door handles, and any unsafe items must be removed from the inside and outside of the cars. All plastic, stainless and pot metal trim, fiberglass, and rubber must be removed from the outside of the car. Car floor, trunks, and inside of doors must be swept of glass, debris, and must be clean. REMOVE ALL WINDOWS
6. Car must have some type of working brakes.
ALL COMPONENTS OF THE TYPE OF CARS USED IN THIS CLASS MUST BE STOCK OEM
MATERIAL FOR THE MODEL OF CAR YOU’RE USING.
1. No welding ANYWHERE!
2. car must have a 3" dia max pipe (or material) inside drivers front door for safety at a 45 deg angle from A pillar to C pillar.
3. gas tank must be relocated to the back seat area of the car and securely fastened (unless stock tank is located in front of the rear axle.
4. No body shaping.
5. Trunk lids may be removed.
6. No tires larger than 16" no tires heavier than 8 ply DOT. no doubled. no foam filled, no studded no skidders, no forklift , no wheel weights. Tubes allowed.
7. 2 spots of 9 wire or 2 spots 1/4" chain allowed in windshield area for safety (keeps from cutting your head off with the hood).
8. Motor headers allowed.
9. All gas/break/shifter linkages must remain stock. Factor fuel system must be used.
10. Cars factor bumpers may be braced or replaced with a max outside 2.5” diameter pipe or tubing welded on to the factory front bumper location only.
11. Each door will be allowed 1, 2”x2”x1/4” plate welded on to keep door closed
12. 1, 2.5 ”x1/4 pipe or square tubing may be used as a front and rear bumper only. Cannot exceed 8” past frame.
13. Two, 3/8 bolts may be used to hold the hood closed. May only be used in the upper core support. Cannot exceed 6” in length.
14. The trunk or wagon gate will be allowed to have 3 2”x2”x1/4”
15. Must have a roll over bar. Roll over bar may be welded to cage. Vertical bars only.
16. Must have a support bar behind driver seat for driver safety. Cannot be any farther back then 4” behind the door pillars.
17. No protectors of any kind anywhere!!!!!
*Rain out date will be Saturday, May 11
**Inspections begin at 11:00 am and close at 3:00 pm**
Full size weld payouts:
1st Place $2,500
2nd place $1,500
3rd place $1,000
4th place $750
5th Place $500
6th place $250
Bone stock compact payouts:
1st place $1,000
2nd place $750
3rd place $500
4th place $250
Full Size DP Rules
*
ALL RULES WILL BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NOT RUN!!! If a car does not pass inspection or the driver can’t/won’t fix car within time allowed to pass inspection, driver will NOT receive a refund of entry. Bring your car built to the rules!
IF ANYTHING IS FOUND IN CAR, FRAME/BODY OR HIDDEN THAT IS NOT ALLOWED IN THESE RULES YOU WILL NOT BE ALLOWED TO FIX IT AND WILL BE LOADED AND LOSE YOUR ENTRY FEE!!! DON’T JUST ASSUME WE WILL ALLOW YOU TO RUN!
Any American-made car will be allowed with the exception of the following:
No 2003 or newer Ford Motor Company frames (Ford, Mercury, Lincoln).
No 1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Imperial sub frames, 4x4’s, ambulances, hearses, trucks,limos,anything classified as a truck, etc..
The person that signs in as the driver of that car must run that car. NO changing drivers of cars or letting someone else drive. Car and driver qualify together.
The driver must wear seat belt and helmet. Fire jacket and eye protection is recommended.
All drivers must attend the drivers meeting.
No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle. This will be the quickest way to be DISQUALIFIED or escorted off the property.
Any open door or gas fire will cause disqualification, for that heat or feature.
You are given 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that particular car will be disqualified.
No drivers are allowed alcohol- period! If you are wearing a drivers band and drinking any form of alcohol, YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED. Drivers, keep your pit crew under control, fairboard has the right to have anyone at anytime escorted off the premises and could result in a disqualification of the driver..
Any questions, call Luke (785) 393-1762
Judges decisions are FINAL!!
***LIMITED WELD RULES***
**No fresh paint, undercoating or any other hiding tricks on frame**
All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
NO welding will be allowed on any part of the body or frame unless specified in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction you will not run. IF YOUR CAR IS FOUND TO HAVE WELD ANYWHERE OTHER THAN SPECIFIED AND IT CANNOT BE FIXED PROPERLY WITH A TORCH within the time allowed you will not run!
All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
Tires no bigger than 16 inch. No split rims, no steel studded tires. If you are running a foam filled tire or any tire that may be coming apart during the derby and a hazard to crowd you may be disqualified!
Engines and transmissions may be interchanged and engine mounts may be fabricated and welded as long as it does not strategically reinforce the frame, “A” frames, or shock towers. Must be mounted within 5" of stock location on factory engine crossmember only. You can build or weld factory mount/pad but Nothing over 6’’x6’’ mounting pad and can only be welded on the frame cross member, CANNOT extend up into spring pocket,frame rail or shock tower! Also allowed two 2"x8"x3/8" flat strap to retain engine but must be located within factory engine cradle area and not to strengthen frame. One 3/8” chain per side of engine to frame. Only 2 links can be welded to frame rail on top side of frame and no chain past back of engine block.
Transmission must be able to move on trans crossmember. May build your own crossmember but no more than 6" of weld allowed to mount it on each frame rail.
You can run a shifter, throttle cable, etc. through floor but keep safety in mind.. If you are running an electric fuel pump, you must have it wired to main switch so that when switched off your fuel pump will shut off.
****** PAY ATTENTION HERE IF YOU ARE RUNNING PROTECTORS!!!!*******
Distributor protectors, lower engine cradles, pulley protectors and transmission protectors allowed.
DP must be attached to engine or transmission only. Back side of DP must be no wider than 12 inches. Forward supports must be inside normally positioned headers and not extend past the water pump.
Firewall may be beat flat on engine side but do not bolt,weld or do any other reinforcements inside or to firewall.
DP may not be welded, bolted or connected to body, hood or frame.
NO removable/adjustable plates from dash bar to dash or DP at ANY POINT. Dash bar and dp must remain the same throughout derby from time of inspection till end of derby. DO NOT add anything between dash bar and dp to fill the gap at anytime before or throughout derby!!
Transmission protectors allowed and can only be mounted to transmission and DP, cannot connect to engine cradle.
Must use stock transmission crossmember for car being ran. Transmission crossmember is for just that!!
Transmission must be free floating on crossmember mounted either by a factory mount or by the 2 chains around tailshaft.
*****If you do NOT use a carb/ distributor protector or mid plate of any kind or have a car with firewall fully cut out, you may do the following:
Weld one 2" MAX diameter round or square tubing STRAIGHT from your dash bar to the top side of the frame not to extend any further forward than 4" behind the rear side of the upper a-arm mount. You can have one 3x3x1/4" plate on each end of each bar, no bends to the bar, only part of the bar that can contact frame/cage is the 3"x3" plate that's welded to the end of the bar. 1 bar per side drivers/passengers. IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS ON THIS CALL!!!!!
Use rear end of choice factory 8 lug or less. You can tilt rear end if you wish by shortening or lengthening of stock oem car origin control arms. Control arms must work w/ factory bushings. Control arms may be reinforced. Welded or posi-track highly recommended. Braced rear ends are welcome but must only be used to strengthen rear end housing only! Braces cannot extend further back than 6’’ from back of housing and cannot be any taller than top of factory housing. NO frame supports or pushers! Judge will have final call on this if you have something more on rear end than what is designed to strengthen housing! Pinion brakes and axle protectors ok. Suspension must be stock for the car model you are running! No homemade suspension.
Rear-leaf springs must be stock for the model you are running. 9 leaf max! Main leaf must be the top leaf in pack and other leafs following from longest to shortest with a minimum of 2” stagger from leaf to leaf. 4 leaf springs clamps per leaf pack 2”x4’’x¼” max. Coil sprung rear ends may clamp in coils springs to the rear end housing only to keep from losing them. 1 loop of 3/8’’ chain or cable per side of rear end is allowed from frame to rear end. NO bolting through frame to create a pin and no welding chain to frame, must go over or around frame. Do not weld chain links to create a bar affect. NO SOLID REAR SUSPENSION, must have bounce! No solid shocks or adjusters. No leaf conversions!
**WATTS LINK CONVERSIONS- Only means of doing this is:
**Lower control arm brackets you can cut ones off a older ford of same model. If you make your own they must be of same thickness material as frame and can be no larger than 6’’x6’’ and mounted in the same way and location as the older crown vics were mounted.. Absolutely no moving bracket up on down leg of rear hump to strengthen the frame!!
**Upper control arm brackets can be homemade, but if homemade they can only be bolted in on the package tray only not to frame rail or body and a max size of 6’’x6’’ on mounting plate.
You can also cut a old package tray out of a older car of same make and model and weld in place of the original package tray. No excessive welding! One pass of weld only where factory weld was! No welding frame seams in the process.
Judges have final say on how this is done so don’t push your luck! If anything is done outside of how the factory did it, you will not be allowed to run..
Front- no homemade suspension or mounts!! Do not move a-arm mounts or add any material to them! When bolting a-arms to frame only bolt it on w/ factory size of bolt and as factory would have mounted it. NO BOLTING as to create the effect of a pin! Do not mount a-arm in any way to help strengthen frame or spring pocket! The ONLY means of welding on front suspension is to raise front end in this way… I will allow a MAX of 2- 3’’x3’’x¼’’ plates per a-arm. DO NOT WELD A-ARM SOLID!! Must be welded on a-arm at the ball joint area to the frame. Sway bars must remain stock, located in stock location and only bolted to frame/a-arm, DO NOT WELD them to frame. You can cut them out if you wish or if they are gonna come in contact with pulley protector they will need to be cut out.
** If anything is done outside of what we want, you WILL cut or fix it.. Have ??’s CALL.
Slider driveshafts are welcome!!
All cars must have working brakes!
All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell, and it must be properly secured and covered. Only metal tanks may be used. No tanks larger than 24’’ wide or long. NO PLASTIC TANKS.. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly in side of car only, DO NOT mount under car. Double clamp all full lines recommended. Keep away from exhaust or sharp pinch points. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat use to be. NO ALCOHOL. Tank protectors will be allowed in sedans only. Only attach to the backseat bar and rear seat area sheet metal. No more than 24” wide at any point. Must run horizontal to the floor pan directly straight off back seat bar to rear seat sheet metal…Gas tank protector can only form a square around the tank, do not weld any down bars or such from it..
If you have questions call!
Transmission coolers are allowed, but must be safe and properly secured.
Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and covered. Max of 2 batteries.
You must have a number in bright colors on each front door and must have a 15” x 15” sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car.
All doors may be welded or chained shut. Driver’s door may be welded solid inside and outside, no more than 6’’ past front or back of drivers door.. If chained must use minimum of 2 chains per door, max of six chains per side for a four-door car. Four chains per side for a two-door car. No chains longer than 3’. IF welded, strap no larger than 3” x 1/8” flat strap may be used. No other filler! Top of door skins may be welded together without any filler material. This includes wagon gates..
** Make sure you reinforce the drivers door well. This is a derby it could get hit. We all know in this sport it will happen so expect it, we will not stop the show for minor door hits! Definitely if you use it for defensive driving! Use your door for defensive driving and you could be the one DQ’d!! NO GRADER BLADES!!!!!
Trunks and wagon gates Can be welded shut along factory seam with 3"X1/8" flat strap. No added metal in gutter!! Can use 2-1” all threads with 5” x 5” washers on top side of trunk lid and can go through frame with 1” washer inside frame. Chryslers can weld all thread to the side of the frame 3‘’ max on frame. All thread must be run vertically. Cut off any excess! All trunk lids must have a 12” x 12” hole for inspection. You may bolt sheet metal back together around hole with 6- 3/8” bolts/washers. You can fold or tuck trunk lid but 50% of the trunk lid must be in factory location.
Hoods- Must be open for inspection. Must have at least a 12” square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolts and washers. A maximum of 6 per hole. If you choose to cut one large hole in your hood you may weld it or bolt it back together with 12-3/8” bolts and washers. You are allowed 6 spots to hold the hood on; minimum of 4. You may have up to 1” all-thread, only 2 may go through factory frame/core support mount hole. All others must be sheet metal to sheet metal and ran vertically. Cut off access all -thread. No plates larger than 5” x 5”. No hood bolts longer than 10”, other than core support bolts. If for some reason you can not run a hood, the fan blade must be removed or belt cut.
For driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X but do not connect to frame. Only to sheet metal! You may also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your dash area to replace your dash. You may run a bar connecting the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front doors only. You may weld two vertical down bars from the cage to the floor pan or frame no more than 3" diameter to protect batteries and your feet. These down bars MUST remain within the inside front door seems and may only be welded to the top side of floor pan sheet metal or top of frame. This is the ONLY part of cage that can connect to frAme. You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the rear seat bar and/or to the floor sheet metal or top side of frame only 3" max and may be attached to roof with two 3/4” bolts max and four 5” x 5” plates max. No part of cage or roll bar can be rearward past rear seat body mount. ROLL BAR MUST BE MOUNTED VERTICAL, no laying it back towards rear of car.
All cage material must be straight and not exceed 3’’x3’’square or 3’’ round. Front of cage cannot extend further forward than 6" from dash sheet metal in center of dash(behind DP) and no further back than body mount inside rear door or back seat area. ONLY the Gas Tank protector can extend rearward past the rear seat body mounts…
**THIS YR HOMEMADE BUMPERS ALLOWED BUT MUST BE REASONABLE! Bumpers are interchangeable. Weld them good we don’t want them falling off!! No added filler material to weld them. Don’t push your luck! Ask if you have a question on this. No homemade brackets or shocks. Only cars that originally had shocks mounted inside frame may have shocks mounted inside frame..
**Absolutely NO brackets further back than 14’’ from back of bumper, any excess will be cut off! So if you find a bracket of some sort that is longer than 14” it must be shortened!
**In addition to this I will allow… One 6’’x4’’x¼’’ max plate per frame rail to help attach bumper to frame. It MUST be welded directly off back side of bumper to side of frame front and rear of car. if welded on bottom side it must have a 1‘’ hole in plate if it covers a body mount hole. If you have these plates on your car they must be welded to bumper as intended for or they will be cut off. They are to help keep bumper on not to strengthen frame.
You may also weld Two 2’’x¼’’ flat strap from bumper to core support and Two on rear bumper to trunk lid.. Max of 36’’ long. Bumper to sheet metal only and ran vertically..
#9 WIRE UNLIMITED. If you go to frame it can only be at one end, other end needs to go thru sheet metal only.. In addition to that you can have 2 places per window opening sheet metal to sheet metal. You can weld a 1” washer MAX to the sheet metal to run the wire thru to prevent ripping. NO larger plates at all!! And no adding washers for later use. 4 loops of wire twisted max!
Body mount bolts may be replaced. NO MOVING BODY MOUNT LOCATIONS including the front core support mounts! You can suck body to frame but no welding body to frame at any point. If you use spacers at body mounts they CANNOT be any more than 3‘’ diameter round pipe! Body bolts may be up to 1’’diameter and 8’’ long max all thread other than the 2 core support and two trunk/wagon gate all threads.
Washer on bottom side MUST be inside frame 1“ max! (do not obstruct view of body mount hole or you will cut it out!) Top side of floor pan you may have 5”x5”x¼” plate only! Radiator support can be sucked down to frame without spacer. If you use spacer at core support such as in tilting fords you can only use 3” max diameter pipe directly over top of body mount hole! DO NOT WELD TO FRAME!!! Absolutely NO adding or moving any body mounts locations!! Do not add any bolts,wire,cable,weld,chain etc in any fashion from the body to frame other than stated in these rules!
Mopars are allowed to run 1” bolt with a 5” plate on both sides (frame and body) in the front most frame hole in the rear frame (rear seat area).
You can repair floor pan rust with sheet metal only! 2” past where rust stops, do not cut out the rust! No other patching without permission!! I will not allow full plated pillar repair!! No layering/overlapping of sheet metal! If you just show up with repairs and they are more than needed don’t just expect us to allow you in w/ it. Frame rust and repair will follow up in rules…
Fender wells may be cut for clearance. You will be allowed 12-3/8"bolts/washers per front fender and rear quarter.
For safety you must have 2 flat straps in windshield area from roof to cowl. Sheet metal to sheet metal only. Do not weld more than 6‘’ on each end.. Strap must not exceed 3’’x¼” flat strap. If you do not weld strap on you can use 2 spots of chain,wire,cable.. Do not attach to cage, roll bar, engine protector etc… If bars are used to strengthen car in any way they will be cut or fixed..
Radiators must be factory oem style for model of car you run and in factory location. Aluminum aftermarket ones are ok. NO redibarrels or custom steels tank style radiators.
NO RADIATOR GUARDS or expanded metal! You can use A/C condenser in front of radiator. You can use two 3/8” or smaller all threads or two ratchet straps around radiator to help hold it in. nothing more. Minimal expanding foam, only to keep radiator from moving side to side. No filling holes.
WAGONS: All rear decking/spare tire cover MUST be removed. NO SEDAGONS!!
Body predenting, prebending, creasing is allowed but do not roll body’s seams to make multiple layers. No welding on body other than what is stated in rules, that includes NO SEAM WELDING… Rear quarter panels and taillight panel must stay in factory upright position.. Do not lay them over.. No full wedge trunks.. You may fold, tuck, dimple, U-shape trunk lid..
Frames: The ONLY welding allowed other than what has been specified in the rules is:
You can weld frame seams top and bottom from the factory location of transmission cross- member to the front bumper. FRAME SEAMS ONLY! ½’’ wide bead max. Do not weld anything else or you will cut!
You can tilt front ends at the FACTORY firewall frame seam or crush box only! The only means of doing this is by cutting factory weld, tilting and rewelding factory frame seam. NO ADDED METAL!!
This is the same method to be used to RESTUB front frames.. IF you restub a front frame it MUST be chevy to chevy, Cadillac to Cadillac, ford to ford, etc and of same year.. No stubbing old cars with newer subs, etc and NO 03 and newer Ford Motor Company frames or front stubs… If you have a question on restubbing call!
Shocks,brackets and bumpers can be welded solid to frame with NO added material.
ATTENTION HERE ON FRAME PLATING! Can be on fresh or preran cars.. The only means of plating that I will allow will be:
(16) 4'’x4’’x¼’’ plates TOTAL on car. Max of 6 plates for a total of 32" per frame rail(side of car)! Must be welded to outside of frame. YOU CAN ONLY HAVE A MAX OF 16 PLATES OR LESS TOTAL ON YOUR FRAME!! DO NOT SHOW UP WITH MORE! If you have more than that on your frame have the ones you wish not to run cut of BEFORE you show up.. Be easier to have done beforehand than doing it at the track and risking chance of not getting to run…
Pinch frame cars may beat over front frame seams and weld down. No added material.
Rear frame rails may be notched or prebent.
No shortening of rear frame rails.
Front frame rails can be shortened up to front of core support mounting hole but DO NOT move factory Core support mounting bracket or hole!!
No added material to frame of any kind other than what is listed in these rules!
You may run one chain or cable from frame rail to frame rail behind rear end housing. 3/8’’ max.
NO FULL FRAME SHAPING. Do not square corners,reshape, etc unless it is to fix damaged frame. The only thing allowed will be minimal dimpling of the rear frame humps above the rear tires.
K-frame cars can fold over one side of front frame rail ears, not both and weld down with no added metal.
Y-frame(73 and older) mopars can close in the front frame opening by core support in this way only… You can weld a ¼’’ plate top and bottom of frame and can only go 1’’ past the original opening of the frame.. All four plates MUST have a 1” hole cut in the center of plate before you show up!! If you have questions on this CALL.
Bone Stock Compact Rules
General Rules:
108" AND UNDER FWD AND RWD COMPACT TYPE CARS NO FULL FRAME CARS
1. Official’s decision is final.
2. No profanity allowed on the cars. No one under the influence of drugs or alcohol will be allowed to participate. Classless behavior will not be tolerated.
3. Driving:
You must make aggressive contact with another live car in less than one minute.
If you do not make aggressive enough hits, we will let you know.
No intentional driver door hits.
Depending on the severity of the hit, we may simply warn you, or we may break your stick.
If you use your driver’s door to block another car, do not expect that car to be disqualified for the driver’s door hit.
Official’s decision final.
4. During competition stay in the car. Keep your helmet on. Keep your hands and arms inside the car.
5. During competition, no driver, pitmen, or spectators shall approach the officials. Classless behavior will not be tolerated. Official’s decision is final.
6. If you are black-flagged (for example a door hit), you finish in that spot, not last, and receive that place trophy and winnings, if any.
7. Cars may be disqualified at any time. We will re-inspect the top five after the derby is over. IF a car is found to be illegal, it will be disqualified and finish last.
8. NO BITCH RULE!
9. Anything can be done to drivers door for safety, a bar behind the seat from door to door allowed. A simple halo/rollover loop off of the seat bar to roof allowed.
CAR PREP & BUILD:
1. Overall condition must be safe. This applies to used cars as well as some fresh cars. IF the officials deem the car unsafe to run, it will not run.
2. Fire jacket highly recommended. Long pants are required. Eye protection and gloves highly recommended. Shoes are required.
3. Minimum of D.O.T. rated helmet required. Full-face helmets recommended.
4. Seat belts are required, must be functional, and fastened to the floor or seat bracket. Official’s decision is final.
5. Car must be fully stripped of all flammable material. Factory seats and factory dash are allowed. All, chrome, door handles, and any unsafe items must be removed from the inside and outside of the cars. All plastic, stainless and pot metal trim, fiberglass, and rubber must be removed from the outside of the car. Car floor, trunks, and inside of doors must be swept of glass, debris, and must be clean. REMOVE ALL WINDOWS
6. Car must have some type of working brakes.
ALL COMPONENTS OF THE TYPE OF CARS USED IN THIS CLASS MUST BE STOCK OEM
MATERIAL FOR THE MODEL OF CAR YOU’RE USING.
1. No welding ANYWHERE!
2. car must have a 3" dia max pipe (or material) inside drivers front door for safety at a 45 deg angle from A pillar to C pillar.
3. gas tank must be relocated to the back seat area of the car and securely fastened (unless stock tank is located in front of the rear axle.
4. No body shaping.
5. Trunk lids may be removed.
6. No tires larger than 16" no tires heavier than 8 ply DOT. no doubled. no foam filled, no studded no skidders, no forklift , no wheel weights. Tubes allowed.
7. 2 spots of 9 wire or 2 spots 1/4" chain allowed in windshield area for safety (keeps from cutting your head off with the hood).
8. Motor headers allowed.
9. All gas/break/shifter linkages must remain stock. Factor fuel system must be used.
10. Cars factor bumpers may be braced or replaced with a max outside 2.5” diameter pipe or tubing welded on to the factory front bumper location only.
11. Each door will be allowed 1, 2”x2”x1/4” plate welded on to keep door closed
12. 1, 2.5 ”x1/4 pipe or square tubing may be used as a front and rear bumper only. Cannot exceed 8” past frame.
13. Two, 3/8 bolts may be used to hold the hood closed. May only be used in the upper core support. Cannot exceed 6” in length.
14. The trunk or wagon gate will be allowed to have 3 2”x2”x1/4”
15. Must have a roll over bar. Roll over bar may be welded to cage. Vertical bars only.
16. Must have a support bar behind driver seat for driver safety. Cannot be any farther back then 4” behind the door pillars.
17. No protectors of any kind anywhere!!!!!