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Post by 33stylee on Aug 8, 2011 9:57:18 GMT -5
I've been told that some folks are having a hard time getting the rules to open up, so I will post them below. -Jay
General Rules for all Classes
1. All judge’s decisions are final. The head judge has the final say on all derby-related matters. 2. No profanity allowed on the cars. No one under the influence of drugs or alcohol will be allowed to participate. Classless behavior you yourself or any of your pit members will absolutely not be tolerated and could result in either disqualification or, in the worst case, a criminal investigation. 3. You must make an aggressive hit on another live car in less than one minute. If you do not make enough aggressive hits, we will let you know. If you are making consistent hits and not “sand-bagging”, you might be allowed more time than those who make only what is required as a “hit” every minute. 4. No intentional hits of a driver’s door. Depending on the severity of the hit, you may get a warning or you may be disqualified. If you use your driver’s side door to “block”, do not be surprised if the other driver is not warned or disqualified. This will be left at the discretion of the head official. 5. ABSOLUTELY NO TEAM DRIVING!!! You MIGHT get one warning for this, but most likely you will be disqualified on the spot. 6. During the competition, stay in your car with your seatbelt and helmet on. 7. No driver, pitmen, or spectator may approach the officials during the competition. Once again, classless behavior will not be tolerated. 8. If you are black flagged (i.e. team driving or drivers door hit) you will finish in the place in the competition in which you were disqualified. For example; if there are five cars remaining after you are disqualified, you will have finished in 6th place. 9. Cars will submit to re-inspection after the competition and if a car is then found to be illegal, it will be disqualified and rule #8 will not apply. 10. Protest fee is $500 cash and must be made by a driver competing in the same class as the car being protested. It must be presented to the head official along with a specific and detailed complaint. The car in question will be re-inspected for this complaint and if it is found to be illegal and severe enough to have affected the outcome, that car will be disqualified and rule #8 will not apply as well. 11. Fire jacket is highly recommended. Long pants are required. Eye protection and gloves are also highly recommended. Shoes/boots are required. Helmets must be DOT rated and are required. Full-face helmets are also highly recommended. 12. Check-in times!!!! Read up people… Inspections will start at 1pm and close at 5pm. This means you have to BE IN LINE for your inspection by 5pm. If you show up after that, you run with the old iron…No exceptions, and believe me when we say that we will enforce this rule. Any inspections done after 5pm will be re-inspections only unless you don’t mind running with the old iron.
Old Iron Rules 1. For the old iron class, any American make sedan or station wagon can be run. No 1973 or Older imperials or Imperial sub-frames/ frames, 4x4's, ambulances, hearses, trucks, limousines, etc… 2. Car building and preparation will follow the same (applicable) rules that follow in the 80’s and newer section.
80’s and Newer Car rules 1. No 2003 and newer Ford vehicle or frames. 1980 and newer cars and station wagons only. No hearses, ambulances, limos, vans, minivans, SUV’s, trucks, or any other vehicle considered a “truck”. 2. 1977 and newer GM cars will be allowed into this class. 3. Overall condition of the vehicle must be safe. This applies to used or fresh cars. If the officials deem a car unsafe to compete, it will not be allowed to compete. 4. Seat belts are required and must be functional. 5. All cars must be fully stripped of all flammable materials. Factory seats and seat belts are only things allowed to remain in the passenger compartment of the car. All glass, chrome, plastic, rubber, pot metal and other non-steel materials must be removed from the exterior and underside of the car. Cars must also be free of debris and trash prior to inspection. All trailer hitches, tow bars and other material used for towing must also be removed. 6. Factory fuel tanks and fuel lines must be removed or if the lines remain, they must be blown clean of any liquids. 7. All vehicles must exhibit the ability to stop. Brakes must work!
8. Cage Bars: For the driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost and it can be in an “X” shape if desired, but may not touch, connect, or be welded to the frame. It also must be no more than 6” away from the back of the driver’s seat. You may also weld in a “dash bar” where the factory dashboard was located. This bar must be at minimum 6” away from any other sheet metal on the firewall or any engine component or distributor protector (before and after the competition). You may also weld bars from the dash bar to the bar between the doorposts along the inside of both the drivers and passenger side doors. You may also weld down bars from the bars along the doors down to the floorpan (not frame) to protect the drivers feet/legs or a battery if it’s located on the passenger floorboard. None of the bars listed may be larger than 8” in diameter
9. Halo or Roll Bars: You may weld a roll bar to the bar behind the drivers seat, but this bar must be placed in the car vertically and may not be connected to or touch the frame. It may be welded to the floor sheet metal and the rear driver’s cage bar, but that is it. There may be three bolts through the top crossover bar through the roof sheet metal. It may not be welded to the roof. 10. Drivers Door: Please reinforce your drivers door very good. You will in all likelihood take at least one shot in the door, so make it safe! The drivers door must be welded shut for safety. You may weld both the inner and outer door seams solid. We also recommend that you reinforce the door skin. You may weld a plate across the door, but it may not extend more than 6” past the front and rear door seem. You may also place a pipe inside the drivers door, but it also cannot extend more then 6” past the front and rear door seem. No grader blades allowed on the outside of the door. 11. Windshield Bars: A minimum of two steel straps or bars (not to exceed 2”) must be located in the windshield area. They may be welded or bolted into place. If welded, they may have only 6” of weld total at the top and 6” of weld at the bottom and must attach to sheet metal only. They may not be connected or welded to the hood. 12. Battery: Must be re-located to the interior of the passenger compartment and we recommend the passenger side floor board. The battery or batteries must be in a solid container and covered. They also must be securely attached to the floorboard of the vehicle. 13. Gas Tanks and Gas Tank Protectors: No plastic gas cans unless it is a plastic or urethane “fuel cell”, in which case it must be placed inside a metal container. Steel boat tanks are recommended. 7 gallon maximum for any gas tank. Gas tanks must be securely fastened inside the passenger compartment and in the rear seat area. They must be fastened to the floor, rear seat area, or rear cage bar. You will be allowed a gas tank protector that may extend backwards from the rear cage bar towards the rear seat area. It may not be wider than 24” at the back and must be at least 4” away from the sheet metal/package tray. The bars may run straight back or angle in, but the rear bar may be no wider than 24” and none of this apparatus may touch any sheet metal or the frame in any way. If it is excessive and the judges deem that this apparatus will be or become an advantage to the car, it will not be allowed. We want this to actually protect the gas tank and that is it! 14. Oil and Transmission Coolers: Engine Oil and Transmission Oil coolers are allowed. You must use high pressure hydraulic lines and fittings. 15. Frame and Body Mounts: On the 1977 and newer GM cars, you may weld one plate on the outside only of the rear humps over the rear end. This plate may not exceed 6” wide, 22” long, and ¼” thick. There also must be a ½” hole drilled in these plates to prove the thickness. You must also follow the frame rails with these plates.
No frame/body swaps with older cars. No added metal to the car or body is allowed other than what is set forth in the rules to follow. Plain and simple, nothing is to be added to the inside or outside of the frame other than what is allowed. Absolutely no painting, undercoating, grease, “silicone and dirt tricks” on the frame. There is also absolutely no reason for there to be any metal located INSIDE the frame. Any attempt to obscure the frame holes to hinder the inspection of the inside of the frame will be considered grounds for disqualification. Scopes will be used if needed!
You may re-weld the top and bottom factory frame seam from the A-arms forward. ½” wide weld bead maximum. Vertical pinch welds on Mopar cars may be folded and welded. The only welding on the frame behind the A-arms will be a total of 12” on each frame rail. If you weld 5” on the top of the frame, then you may only weld 7” on the bottom. This will allow you to properly weld any factory seam welds, OR tilt or “pitch” your frame. If you pitch your frame, that will be considered your 12” on each side.
Uni-Body cars may have a total of 12” of weld to repair any factory spot welds from the back doors forward.
You may repair rust, but it will be counted as one of you eight frame repair plates. If the car is fresh, the rust must be cut out and the patch must fit inside the hole cut out. The plate may not overlap and MUST be the same thickness as the original frame metal. There must be a ½” hole cut in this frame to prove thickness.
Cutting and/or pre-notching of the frame is allowed, but you may not re-weld the frame rails where it is notched or cut.
No adding or subtracting body mounts. You may not move any body mounts either as to shorten the frame rail. If you move a body mount hole and your car cannot be made right, you will not run.
Body mount bolts may be replaced with up to ¾” bolts. There must be at least a 1” space between the body and frame. Rubber bushings may be replaced with other spacers, but must be at least 1” thick and the same diameter as the original bushing. Spacers may be welded to the body, but not the frame. Maximum 4” body mount washers allowed on the top of the body bolts inside the passenger compartment and trunk. Sub-frame cars may have washers up to 2” larger than the factory body mount hole (for example: if the hole is 4”, the use of an 8” washer is permitted). These washers may not be welded to the floor pans or trunk floor. Washers inside the frame must be in stock location and may be 2” larger than the original frame hole.
Radiator support mount bushings may be removed completely. The radiator support may contact the frame but must not be welded to it. The two radiator mount bolts may be up to 1”diameter. These two bolts may be welded to the frame. These two bolts may extend straight down through to the bottom side of the frame. No angling back to “A” frames to form a “kicker”. These two bolts may extend up next to the radiator support, through to the top of the hood, and be used as two hood hold down bolts. These two bolts may be welded to the radiator support. These two bolts may be welded to the frame if they do not go down through the frame. Thicker (taller) than stock spacers are allowed between the radiator support and the frame. No bolts allowed in front of radiator. Spacers may be welded to frame.
#9 Wire (four loops maximum) or cable (one loop of 3/8”) from driver side frame rail, across to the passenger side frame rail, is allowed. If used, it must be located above and behind the rear axle housing. No welding.
You are allowed 2 spots of #9 wire, no more than four wires thick, from roof to frame.
16. Body: Bodies must remain stock. No re-welding of factory seams inside the engine compartment, inside the passenger compartment, inside the trunk compartment, on the underside of the body, under the hood or trunk lid. No added bolts or screws to any body seams. No added metal anywhere on the body of the car because of “rust”. If the body is rusty, we must be able to see the rusted areas that have been fixed. Bodies will be drilled or cut open for inspection if needed as determined by the officials.
Hoods must open for inspection. Hoods must remain in the stock location and position. Bending down, or bending up, excess hood in front of radiator support allowed. Hoods must have a minimum of two 12” holes for fire control. Holes cut in hood for fire control, or exhaust may be bolted (not welded) back together with up to eight 3/8” bolts (1” washers maximum) per hole. Hoods must be either chained or bolted shut. Hoods may have no more than ten 3/8” bolts (1” washer max) fastening inner/outer hood sheet metal together on hood itself.
If bolted shut: A minimum of four bolts 5/8” diameter must be used. A maximum of eight bolts, not to exceed 1” diameter is allowed. The factory hood hinges do not count as a hood hold down. Only the front two bolts may go down through the hood to the frame. The other six bolts, if used, must be sheet metal to sheet metal only. No bolts to be placed in front of radiator as protection. Washers for the topside of the hood may not exceed 5” square and 1/4” thick. The hood “washers” may be welded to the top of the hood. 5” square “washers” may also be welded to the inner fenders at the corners (fender to radiator support and fender to the fire wall or cowl) below the hood. Bolts may then be welded to these “washers” to hold the hood. 1”1/2 Angle Iron, no more than 6” long welded to hood & fender/bolted together may be counted same as other hood bolts.
If chained shut: A minimum of four spots of 1/4” chain must be used. A maximum of up to eight spots of 3/8” chain may be used. The use of 5” square “washers” is allowed as above.
Fenders may be cut for a larger wheel well opening. Fenders may be bolted back together (with no welding) with up to six 3/8” bolts (1” diameter washers maximum) per wheel well opening. Excess front fender in front of radiator support may be cut, folded over, and bolted (not welded) back together. Four 3/8” bolts (1” washers) allowed per fender.
Doors must be chained, wired, bolted, or welded (exterior seams only) shut. Weld 5” skip 2” on door seams. Chain must be a minimum of 1/4”, wire must be a minimum of two loops, bolts must be a minimum of 3/8”, and weld must be 4” on a minimum of two spots per door. No chain, wire, or bolts allowed to go to or around frame. 4” wide by 3/16” strap maximum allowed to weld over the exterior door seams. You may also have one loop of #9 wire per window opening sheet metal to sheet metal no more than four wires thick.
Trunk lids and station wagon tailgates may be chained, wired, bolted, or welded shut the same as the doors. If welded then the 5” skip 2” rule applies. Any two methods are allowed to fasten the trunk lid or tailgate. No method may go to or around the frame or rear bumper. Trunk lid may be “tucked” down inside the trunk compartment. Trunk lid may not be welded to the trunk floor pan. Two bolts (maximum 1” diameter) are allowed in the trunk from the bottom of the trunk pan up through the top of the trunk lid. These two bolts are allowed to go down through the top side of the frame only, but may not be welded to the frame. The bolt must be cut off flush with the bottom of the nut inside the frame. If the bolt sticks down through the bottom of the frame, it will have to be cut before an inspection will be done. The use of 5” “washers” is allowed the same as the hood. These two bolts must be cut flush with the top of the nuts. Pre-forming or pre-bending the body sheet metal is allowed. It may be cut to shape it, but not allowed to re-weld or bolt back together (except for the front edge of the front fenders, wheel well radius, and hood holes). . Station wagon tail gates may be lowered, then chained, wired, bolted, or welded shut. No more than, Ten, 3/8 bolts (1” washer max) may be used to bolt inner/outer trunk lid sheet metal together. If back bumper has been removed, Station Wagon gates maybe lowered & bolted or welded to back bumper brackets or shocks.
Tops of doors, and areas that had moving windows, may be pinched together and welded. Weld bead only, no plates or other material allowed. Inspectors must be able to see down into the body.
The re-welding of the doorpost or pillar, to the floor sheet metal, allowed on both the driver side and passenger side.
The use of fabricated parts such as steering columns, fuel pedals, brake pedals, transmission shifters, seat brackets, battery boxes, fuel tanks, and coolers allowed.
Seat, battery, fuel tank, and cooler brackets must be welded to, or bolted to, the floor sheet metal. No chain, wire, or rubber type straps allowed to fasten these items. The seat, battery, fuel tank, and coolers must be secure. No bracket may be attached to, or come in contact with, the seat bar, dash bar, or door bars. Steering column brackets and seat brackets may come in contact with, and be attached to, these bars. No bracket may extend in front of the dash bar (other than steering column bracket). No bracket may extend past the rear of the seat bar. Brackets in the front seat area must be welded to, or bolted to, floor sheet metal only. Brackets in the front seat area may be attached to the factory body mount washers. Brackets in the back seat area must be welded to, or bolted to, the floor sheet metal only. Bolts in the back seat area may not go through, or around, the frame or sub-frame. Brackets in the back seat area must not be attached to, or come in contact with, the seat bar or door bars. Brackets for the front seat area, and brackets for the back seat area, must be completely separate.
One post or pillar is allowed in the rear window area. 2” x 2” square, or 2” round maximum size allowed. This post or pillar must mount to the back edge of the roof and extend down to the front edge of the original trunk lid seam. One 5” x 5” x ¼” maximum size plate allowed at the top and one plate allowed at the bottom. These plates must be mounted to sheet metal only.
Remove or loosely fasten rear “decking” in station wagons. It may be bolted, wired, or chained, but not tightly. No method may go to, or around, frame or sub-frame. Must be sheet metal to sheet metal only. “Decking” may not be welded. A 12” inspection hole in “decking” or lower floor sheet metal is required.
17. Suspension and Steering: YOU MAY CONVERT A WATTS LINK FORD TO A STANDARD GM REAREND IN THE FOLLOWING WAY.. USE THE TRAILING ARM BRACKETS OFF AN OLDER FORD OR METAL OF THE SAME SIZE AND THICKNESS. NO POSITIONING OF THE BRACKETS TO STRENGTHEN THE FRONT DOWNLEG OF THE REAR HUMP. YOU MAY CUT OUT THE COIL SPRING FRAME TRAY FROM AN EARLIER YEAR FORD AND WELD IT IN THE NEWER FORD, IF YOU CHOOSE TO MANUFACTURE A SYSTEM FOR THE UPPER BRACKETS PLEASE CALL AHEAD. ONE PASS ONLY, ¼” MAXIMUM. NO STRONGER THAN STOCK.
No more than 7 leaf springs per side, no more than 3/8” thick leaves. The leaves must stagger down to bottom spring with a minimum of 1” stagger. The leaf directly under the main may not extend longer, or past, the main leaf eyebolt. No double wrapping of the main leaf. No leaf may be as long as the main leaf. No leaf springs on top of, or above, the main leaf allowed. 4 leaf spring clamps allowed per leaf spring pack, 8 total per car. Maximum size of clamps is 2” wide by 5” long by 1/2” thick.
No leaf springs under non-leaf cars allowed. No solid REAR suspension. Suspension must be working and have a minimum of 2” travel. If your rearend is chained tight and down too low, you will be made to change it. The head judge will make the final decision on rearend height.
No reinforcing of steering or suspension components other than what is allowed in these rules.
Front and rear factory leaf spring brackets, on Mopar cars, may be welded to the floor brackets, and or sub-frame brackets.
The interchange of front spindles, rotors, and upper A-arms allowed. The parts must not be reinforced or altered and must be considered OEM car, not truck or SUV. Only a minimum of fabrication is allowed to do this. The A-arm mounts, if needed, may not strengthen the frame, or be stronger than what is considered stock.
Any rear axle assembly may be used as long as it is a factory five lug set up. No floater-type rearends. Rear axle braces are also allowed, but must not be any closer than 6” from the frame on fresh cars.
Factory rear control arms on coil sprung cars may be lengthened or shortened. Only a minimum of reinforcing is allowed. “Boxing” of rear control arms, allowed. Double coil springs are allowed, (one coil spring turned inside a second coil spring) but you must maintain the 2” of suspension travel. Coil springs may be wired, welded, or cabled in on top or bottom. Only one place is allowed to hold coil spring in. Air shock lines must be cut.
You are allowed two chains or cable or wire around axle housing to frame or body. May not be welded or bolted to frame or body, just looped around it and may not be pulled so tight as to make the suspension solid.
Shocks are allowed and must have 2” minimum travel. One strand (not loop) of chain (no wire or cable) 3/8” size maximum allowed to replace the shock. This strand of chain must be mounted at the same factory location, both top and bottom, as the factory shock. You may use either one shock, or one strand of chain, not both. The chain links must not be welded. The chain must flex.
Altered, replaced, and or fabricated steering columns allowed.
18. Tires: We do not want flats.
No bigger than 15” rims, no spit rims, no studded tires on driven wheels. No rim reinforcements. No spikes, paddles, or other material to be welded inside or to the rim. No liquid filled tires allowed. Rim screws allowed. Implement tread, forklift type, foam filled, urethane, solid, and double tires are allowed. Valve stem protection is allowed. Any ply allowed.
19. Bumpers: Any car bumper allowed on any car. Bumpers may be cut. Bumpers may be chained, bolted, or welded on. Bumpers may be welded to the brackets, and brackets may be welded to the frame. Bumpers may be welded directly to the frame. Brackets may be cut. Use only factory brackets. No extra steel or other material allowed as a bumper bracket. You may use either the factory brackets that came with the bumper, or you may use the factory brackets that came with the car, not both. Bumpers may have seams welded. You may reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper. The bumper must start stock and may have metal put inside for reinforcement. Bumper chrome may be smashed down and welded to inner bumper support. Bumpers may be mounted upside down. Rear car bumpers allowed on the front. Front car bumpers allowed on the rear. Rear bumper brackets may only be used on the rear of the car. Front bumper brackets may only be used on the front of the car.
No bracket may extend rearward more than 14 inches from the rear of bumper. This is measured at the factory mount surface. All brackets must make contact with the bumper.
Rear Bumpers, 4 chains or 4, 2” wide straps from rear bumper to car body allowed. No more than 5” of weld on straps on body and 5” of weld on bumpers. Bumpers must be smooth at the edges.
Front Bumpers. Allowed two straps not to exceed 2” wide x ¼ thick allowed from radiator support / hood hold down bolts down to front bumper with no more than 5” of strap welded to bumper & no more than 3” of weld to core support. OR #9 wire in two locations (two loops or 4 strands each) may be used from front hood hold-down/bolts to front bumper.
20. Engines: Engines and transmissions may be interchanged and mounts may be fabricated and welded as long as it does not strategically reinforce the frame, A-arms, or shock towers. No engine mounts, braces, cables, or chains may extend more than 4” in front of, or 4” behind the engine block. Maximum length of angle or plate is 4”. Maximum size allowed is 2” x 2” x ¼”. Angle or plate must extend upward from top of frame only. Engine mounts may only be attached to the top of the frame rail, no welding to vertical frame surfaces. No engine or transmission mounting to dash bar! “K” frames in cars may be welded to the main frame rails. 1/2” filler rod maximum. No plates as filler allowed. This filler rod and weld must not extend 4'' in front of or 4” behind engine block. No K-frames in non-K-frame cars.
Distributor protectors allowed, but cannot be excessive. You can have four bolts; two connected to the bell housing, two will be connected to the intake manifold bolts. The term “excessive” is at the discretion of the head official. If he does not like it, you will have to cut or remove it. AFTERMARKET ENGINE CRADLES ARE ALLOWED. PULLEY PROTECTORS ARE ALLOWED. IF YOU USE A FRONT MOTOR PLATE, IT MAY NOT BE GUSSETTED TO THE HEADER FLANGES OR ATTACHED IN ANY OTHER MANNER. THE DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTOR IS AND MUST REMAIN A SEPARATE ITEM, NOT CONNECTED TO ANY OTHER COMPONENT IN ANY MANNER.
Compact Class Rules
You will be allowed 6 frame rail repair plates per car... 4inch x 6inch 1/4 inch thick plates for repair welds on pre-ran cars only.
1) ANY FACTORY COMPACT CAR or TRUCK MAY BE USED
*Rear wheel drives MUST BE 106 INCH and under, Front wheel drives 108 INCH and under WHEEL BASE.
NO V8’s ALLOWED, ALL CARS MUST REMAIN STOCK. If it doesn’t say you can do it in rules, then don’t!
*Compacts* ..& compacts only..
May have homemade radiators. they must be like factory size, & mounted like factory, & in factory location, with bolts or ratchet straps.
Do not weld in!
2) ALL GLASS, PLASTIC, CHROME, AND INTERIOR MUST BE REMOVED.
3) NO TIRES BIGGER THAN 16". NO SPLIT RIMS. PADDLE TIRES, DOUBLE TIRES AND VALVE STEM PROTECTORS ARE ALLOWED.
4) YOU MAY WELD OR CHAIN MOTOR, BUT DO NOT STRENGTHEN THE FRAME RAILS.
5) A-ARMS AND BALL JOINTS MUST REMAIN STOCK. YOU MAY SHORTEN OR LENGTHEN TRAILING ARMS, BUT ABSOLUTELY NO REINFORCING.
6) ALL TRAILER HITCHES AND BRACING MUST BE REMOVED.
7) ORIGINAL GAS TANK MUST BE REMOVED. YOU MUST USE A MAXIMUM 6 GALLON BOAT TANK OR WELL MADE FUEL CELL AND MUST BE SECURELY LOCATED BEHIND THE DRIVER SEAT AREA. MUST HAVE METAL FIRE SHIELD OVER TANK TO PROTECT FROM FIRE.
8) TRANSMISSION COOLERS MAY BE USED, BUT MUST BE SAFE AND PROPERLY SECURED AND COVERED.
9) BATTERY MUST BE SECURED IN FRONT PASSENGER FLOOR AREA AND MUST BE COVERED WITH A NON-CONDUCTIVE MATERIAL.
10) NUMBERS MUST BE ON BOTH FRONT DOORS IN A CONTRASTING COLOR.
11) IF REPAIRING SHEET METAL, MUST USE SAME THICKNESS.
12) YOU MAY WELD INSIDE & OUTSIDE OF BODY seams & door seams 5” leave 5” . YOU MAY USE NO MORE THAN 3" WIDE BY 1/8" THICK STRAP TO COVER GAPS ON TRUNK, TAILGATE, AND DOORS ONLY. TO CLARIFY, A WAGON TAILGATE WILL BE CONSIDERED THE TRUNK PORTION. DO NOT WELD ON FRAME OR FRAME SEAMS EXCEPT WHERE STATED. YOU CAN WELD TOP AND BOTTOM OF FRAME SEAMS FROM A-ARMS FORWARD ONLY. ALL FRAME HOLES MUST BE LEFT OPEN. MAXIMUM OF4 - 4" LONG FRAME PLATE REPAIRS ALLOWED. METAL MUST BE SAME THICKNESS. RUST, BEND, BREAK, RIP, OR TEAR MUST BE VISIBLE OR DON’T DO IT. DON’T GET CARRIED AWAY BECAUSE YOU WILL BE MADE TO CUT IT. NO PINNING OF FRAME OR ANYTHING INSIDE OF FRAME WILL BE ALLOWED. FRAME RULES WILL BE STRICTLY ENFORCED. IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS, CALL BEFORE YOU DO IT. NO PAINT OF UNDERCOAT ON FRAMES.
13) IF YOU DON’T WELD YOUR DOORS, TRUNK, YOU MAY HAVE 2 - 3/8" CHAINS PER SEAM.
14) YOU MAY RUN A DASH BAR, BACK BAR, PASSENGER, AND PASSENGER SUPPORT DOOR BAR. (Must be 4” away from floor of car) A PASSENGER SUPPORT DOOR BAR MUST RUN AT A 90 DEGREE ANGLE FROM CENTER OF YOUR PASS DOOR BAR AND MAY NOT ATTACH TO THE FRAME. THE PASSENGER SUPPORT BAR IS FOR SAFETY ONLY AND MAXIMUM 2" IN DIAMETER. YOU MAY RUN PASSENGER DOOR BAR AGAINST THE PASSENGER DOOR.
YOU MUST USE A MINIMUM OF 6" PLATE AND MAX OF 12" PLATE ON BACK AND DASH BAR, SO IT DOESN’T ACT AS A SPEAR. ALL CAGE BARS MUST BE NO LARGER THAN 6", EXCEPT FOR PASS DOOR SUPPORT BAR WHICH AS STATED IS 2" MAXIMUM.
15) DRIVERS DOOR MUST HAVE ADDED PROTECTION NOT TO EXCEED 12" WIDE AND MAY NOT GO PAST DRIVERS DOOR SEAMS MORE THAN 6 " ON EITHER SIDE, OR MAY BE USED INSIDE OF CAR IF PART OF CAGE.
16) YOU MAY WELD BUMPER BRACKETS TO BUMPER AND TO FRAME, BUT DO NOT ADD METAL IN BUMPERS. BUMPER SEAMS MAY BE WELDED. You may have repair welds on bumper. Front bumpers may have no more than 2 chains, or two strap 2inches wide, or #9 wire in two locations from bumper to core support.
17) REAR BUMPERS MAY HAVE four STRAPS FROM TRUNK OR WAGON GATE TO THE BUMPER. CAN NOT BE MORE THAN 4 INCHES WIDE AND MAY NOT GO MORE THAN 5 INCHES ON BUMPER OR TRUNK MAY NOT BE OVER 1\4 IN THICK.
18) HOOD MUST OPEN FOR INSPECTION , HOOD MAY BE SECURED BY SIX BOLTS NOLARGER THAN 3/4 TWO MAY GO THROUGH THE FRAME, MUST HAVE A HOLE BIG ENOUGH TO GET INSPECTORS HEAD INSIDE. HOLE MUST BE LARGE ENOUGH FOR INSPECTION, AND TO GET FIRE EXTINGUISHER INSIDE FOR FIRE CONTROL, OR YOU WILL HAVE TO CUT.
19) TRUNK MAY BE SECURED BY WELDING, ( weld 5” leave 5” CHAINING, OR BOLTING. IF BOLTING YOU MAY USE UP TO 4 BOLTS AND MAY GO THROUGH FRAME BOLTS. MAY NOT EXCEED ¾ INCH DIAMETER.
20) BODY MOUNTS MAY BE REPLACED, OR REMOVED BODY MAY BE SUCKED DOWN TO FRAME BUT CAN NOT BE WELDED TO FRAME MAY NOT USE OVER 1IN BOLTS AND NO MORE THAN A 6IN WASHER MAY BE USED FOR WASHERS
22) TIE RODS MAY BE REINFORCED BUT MUST BE WORKABLE.
23) ONLY 2 #9 WIRE STRANDS#9 WIRE MAY ATTACH to frame in 2 spots. You may have two strands per window opening sheet metal to sheet metal.
24) MAXIMUM OF 2 BARS, 2 INCH WIDE FROM THE REAR WINDOW OF CAR. MUST MOUNT NO FURTHER THAN 6" PAST THE FRONT SEAMS OF THE TRUNK OF THE CAR AND MAY NOT MOUNT TO FRAME.
25) ROLL BAR/ CAGE PERMITTED. ROLLBAR/CAGE MAY ONLY ATTACH TO ROOF INTWO PLACES USING NO MORE THAN 2 -¾ INCH BOLTS WITH MAXIMUM OF 1" WASHER, OR 2 STRANDS OF #9 WIRE. ROLLBAR/ CAGE MAY NOT ATTACH TO FRAME, AND MUST ATTACH OFF OF BACK SEAT BAR OF INNER CAGE. 2" DIAMETER MAXIMUM ROLLBAR/ CAGE MAY BE USED, NO KICKERS. IF YOU HAVE KICKERS TO THE FRAME THEY WILL BE CUT.
26) ANY REAREND MAY BE USED BUT MUST BE A CAR REAREND WITH NO MORE THAN 5 LUGS, NO TRUCK REARENDS ALLOWED.
27) TWO BARS IN FRONT WINDOW REQUIRED TO PREVENT HOOD FROM COMING BACK IN DRIVER’S COMPARTMENT. Mounted only in wind sheild area (not extended out to front fenders.)
28) YOU MAY ADD ONE LEAF BUT MUST BE FACTORY LEAF FOR THAT CAR.
29) YOU WILL BE ALLOWED TO REPAIR A FRAME, BUT NO MORE THAN 4 PLATES TOTAL. 2 IN FRONT AND 2 IN BACK MAXIMUM. METAL MUST BE SAME THICKNESS. RUST, RIP, TEAR, DAMAGE MUST BE VISIBLE. 4 INCH MAXIMUM PLATES.
30) SUBFRAME CAN NOT BE CONNECTED ON SUBFRAME CARS.
31) THESE RULES ARE FOR COMPACT ONLY. CARS MAY HAVE A DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTER...CAN NOT TOUCH THE DASH BAR AT ANY TIME OR WILL BE DISQUALIFIED.
32) Hoods and trunks you may re-bolt inner and outer skin or sheet metal together with no more than ten 3/8 bolts.
1) IF CAR DOES NOT PASS INSPECTION AND YOU WILL NOT FIX CAR TO PASS INSPECTION, THERE WILL BE NO REFUNDS OF ENTRY FEES.
2) ALL RULES WILL BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NOT RUN.
3) DRIVER MUST BE ATLEAST 16 YEARS OF AGE AND HAVE DRIVERS LICENSE. IF 16-18 YEARS MUST HAVE NOTARIZED PARENT RELEASE FORM.
4) DRIVER MUST WEAR HELMET AND SEAT BELT AT ALL TIMES.
5) DO NOT HIT DRIVERS’ DOOR. IF IT LOOKS INTENTIONAL, YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED. IF YOU USE YOUR DRIVER’S DOOR AS A SHIELD YOU MAY BE DISQUALIFIED.
6) YOU WILL BE GIVEN ONE MINUTE FOR AN AGGRESSIVE HIT, AND ONE MINUTE FOR RESTARTS OR HUNG UP. NO ALCOHOL IN THE PITS.
7) AFTER DERBY-TOP 5 CARS WINNING PRIZE MONEY MAY BE REINSPECTED BEFORE ANY CARS/DRIVERS LEAVE THE ARENA. DRIVERS AND OFFICIALS ONLY ALLOWED IN ARENA DURING AND AFTER DERBY. IF PIT PEOPLE, FAMILY, OR FANS ENTER ARENA, DRIVER OF THAT CAR WILL BE DISQUALIFIED. ABSOLUTELY NO WARNINGS! IF SOMETHING ILLEGAL IS FOUND, ALL MONEY AND ENTRIES WILL BE FORFEITED. THERE WILL BE NO EXCEPTIONS. SO IF IT’S NOT CAUGHT IN FIRST INSPECTION, AND WE FIND IT AFTER OR YOU ADDED SOMETHING AFTER THE HEAT, YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED.
8) ALL CARS ARE SUBJECT TO BEING DRILLED FOR ADDED METAL.
ALL JUDGES DECISIONS WILL BE FINAL. IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS MAKE SURE YOU CALL JUST BECAUSE IT DONT SAY IT IN THE RULES DONT MEAN YOU CAN DO IT. ANY GRAY AREA OF THE RULES WILL BE AT THE DISCRETION OF THE OFFICALS!!!!!!!!!!!!
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