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Post by waylontheman on Nov 30, 2012 16:45:28 GMT -5
Last year it was a KS/MO showdown in Oklahoma:) Rob is letting BB cars run(if frame isn't squared off). Last year was most of the crowds first derby and they loved it! Nice facility hope turnout is good again this year. Stole following from Wecrash. Full Size Derby Pay Back Claremore,OK Full Size Car Derby 1. $1500 2. $900 3. $600 4. $200 5. $75 Compact Car-18 or less cars 1. $600 2. $400 3. $250 4. $200 5. $75 Compact Car-19+ cars Heat 1 Heat 2 1. $500 1. $500 2. $400 2. $400 3. $200 3. $200 4. $75 4. $75 Mad Dog Award Full Size Derby 1. $100 Mad Dog Award Compact Derby (If 2 Heats then it will be $50 per heat) 1. $100 You can go to: randrpromotions.com motorheadevents.com Look up the fullsize & compact rules. We had a great time last year and look forward to this up coming event. Thanks, Rob Baker R&R Promotions Read more: www.we-crash.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=southern&action=display&thread=25376#ixzz2DkCxQ5zX |
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Post by waylontheman on Nov 30, 2012 16:51:09 GMT -5
R&R Total Destruction Promotions, LLC – Rob Baker 515-462-5775
General Rules: ***If car does not pass inspection or driver is unwilling to change car to pass inspection - absolutely no refunds!!
1. Any American make sedan or station wagon can be run. No 1970 or older Lincoln’s! No 1973 or Older imperials or Imperial sub-frames/ frames, 4x4’s, ambulances, hearses, trucks, limousines, etc…
2. Drivers must be 18 years of age and have a valid driver’s license. Ages 14 –17 must have a notarized permission slip and some form of driver’s license. The person that signs in as the driver/passenger- must be the driver/passenger for that event!
3. Driver must wear seat belt and helmet, along with eye protection. ALL drivers and crewmembers must attend the drivers meeting.
4. DO NOT hit the driver’s door! Sometimes this happens, but if it looks intentional or carelessness, you will be disqualified. Don’t use your door as a shield; it may cause you to get disqualified.
5. Any open driver’s door or fire will cause disqualification. If in heat, you may fix it and come back in the consolation.
6. NO sandbagging or holding!!! You will be disqualified! You are given 20 seconds for aggressive hits, 1 minute for restarts and 1 minute if you are hung up.
7. No alcohol in the pits, if anyone is caught with alcohol, they will be disqualified, this includes their pit crew.
8. Cars are subject to re-inspection before any prize money is handed out. There is a $150 pro-test fee and you must be a driver in order to protest. Only drivers in the feature event may pro-test another car. Driver must have cash in hand directly after feature event in order to pro-test.
9. Any controversies will be taken up at the drivers meeting.
10. Any questions give us a call! If it doesn’t say you can do it, don’t do it. Call 1st!! Judges decisions are FINAL!!!
Car Preparation
1. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby including trailer hitches & brackets.
2. All decking in station wagons MUST be removed!!!
3. Tires no bigger than 17 inch, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or Doubled tires OK-we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors OK. Tires may be screwed to rims.
4. Driver must have a fire coat or non-flammable jacket to wear -safety approved glasses, face shield or have FULL faced helmets.
5. You must use a radiator and it must be in stock location. All cars must have working brakes.
6. Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell and it must be properly secured and covered.
No gas cans. Plastic gas tanks must be placed in a metal box!! Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat, use to be. Compacts read additional rules on back!
7. Transmission coolers will be allowed, but must be safe and properly secured.
8. Batteries must be moved to passenger floorboard close to transmission. It must be properly secured and covered.
9. You must have a number In Bright colors on each front door and must have 15”x 15” roof sign with car number on it for judging.
Car building: 1. Only the Outside of Doors, trunks & Tailgates may be welded solid with 3 inch wide straps x 3/16 inch thick or smaller fill materials. Top of the doors may be rolled over and welded with no added materials. If you decide not to weld, then you are allowed to chain/bolt/wire them shut with UNLIMITED use of chain/bolts/wires.
2. You can weld frame seam from the front of the A-arms forward top side only! You are allowed 16 inches of additional frame seam welding from the firewall/dash mounts forward per frame rail. Frame seams can be re-welded if seam has broke apart or missed by factory welder but must call first! Must skip weld that area to prove it was broken or missed. The frame seam weld can’t be larger then 1/2” wide or it will be cut!! The uni-body is considered the frame on Mopar cars, which means No bolting the seam.
3. For driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, you may also have a 1-bar across your dash with no gussets or kickers to firewall/dash, you may connect the dash bar to bars behind seat across the inside of front door only, you may also weld your steering column in, you can also weld a plate across the driver’s door not to exceed 6 inches past each seam. You may have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the top of the frame or floor and welded or bolted to the roof – no kickers going to the back or front of the car. Back of cage including roll bar, can only be 10” from back of seat. Dash bar must be 6” from dash sheet metal and floor. Dash bar must be located no farther back the inside seam of front doors. Allowed 2 down bar from side door bars on the inside of the driver’s and passenger’s front door but can not be any farther forward then the inside front door seam & can go to frame.
Bumpers:
4. Bumpers are interchangeable. Any Automotive bumper and bumper brackets may be used on any car but only 1 set of brackets may be used! Bumper brackets must remain stock and no cut/relocating of bracket parts. No homemade bumper brackets. You can weld bumper brackets and towers to the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock towers. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding on the bumper skins together (chrome to inner liner of bumper) is allowed. When welding bumpers, shocks and brackets – do not add any metal. Weld shocks and brackets solid if you wish. Weld them well; we don’t want any bumpers falling off!
5. Bumpers may be welded to end of frame with no added metal, just use the welder. Rear bumper may have 2 straps, 2- chains or 2-wires (4 loops) from trunk deck or tailgate to bumper (not frame). You can only have 1 of the 3 used, NOT all 3! Straps can be up to 3” wide and no more than 5” on the bumper and 5” on the trunk or tailgate. Straps may be up to ¼” thick. You are allowed wire from radiator support to front bumper in 4 locations.
*** 6. Stock appearing bumpers- we will allow you to take any bumper apart. Weld any material you would like to the inside of the bumper. Weld the crome skin back into place. Everything must be done inside of bumper- FIX bumper!
HOOD/TRUNKS:
7. You can fold hoods or trunk decks over but 60% of the hood or trunk lid must be in factory location. No tucking of wagon roof on Leaf spring wagons. 80’s & newer wagons may tuck roof down with 4 spots holding the roof down to the car body only—NOT Frame
8. 2 - 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to frame, MUST go threw body mount hole .You may use wire in 2 spots with 4 loops from trunk lid and may go around the frame with the wire. CAN’T DO BOTH. Trunk meets floor maybe attached in 2 spots to floor-2 bolts
9. **Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in cast of fire. You are allowed 12 extra- 3/8” bolts to bolt your hood skins
(NOT TRUNK SKIN) back together. You will be allowed 8 hood bolts; you MUST have at least 4 hood bolts. You may have up to 1” all thread –2 may be used from the hood down to the frame, but must go through the front body mounts. The top 5” of all thread may be welded to radiator support. Chrysler products may run all thread behind radiator support down to top of frame and be welded to top of frame with no added material – All thread may pass thru frame. Hood bolts must be sheet metal to sheet metal. Hood must be open for inspection. Plates for hood bolts cannot exceed 5x5x1/2 inch. Hood bolts can be up to 1 inch in diameter.
10. Body mount bolts can be replaced with 1” bolts, Bolts may extend threw body and have up to a 5”x 5” x ¼”thick washer on top. Bolt must be up inside of frame as factory and may have larger washer inside of frame. Washers inside frame may not be used as a gusset! If there is factory rubber mount without a body bolt, you can add the bolt to the mount.
SUSPENSION:
11. Suspension must be at stock height. Leaf springs must be stock, you may add one spring as long as the main leaf spring, you can't wrap the added leaf spring to make a double main - tow packages OK. The Main leaf spring must be the top spring in the spring pack and leaf springs must stagger down with at least a 2 inch stagger from longest to smallest. You can re-clamp springs, 6 clamps per side homemade or factory. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4 inch. You can put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height. You can bolt or wire coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them from becoming unbolted. You can loop chain or wire from rear end & springs to frame in 4 spots on each side. No bigger then #9 wire or 3/8”chain or cable may be used.
12. Mopars can weld mounting brackets to uni-body where leaf springs are mounted factory to uni-body frame. Include rear shackle box.
13. Rear-end control arms may be reinforced, but must be workable. They may be shortened or made longer as well. Homemade OK!!
14. You may use ¾ or 1 ton rear ends with 8 lugs. You can tilt rear end if you wish. Welded or posi-track highly recommended
15. Rear-end Housings may be re-enforced. Hybird rear-ends are allowed- must be mounted in factory location of car that you put in under!
*****16. Front arms may be bolted, chained or welded down to get your bumper height. Welding- 2 straps 2” on frame 2” on A-arm
ENGINE MOUNTING:
17. Engine mounts may be welded to engine cradle. Engine must be mounted in stock location. Any skid plates on engine or tranny can only be mounted to engine/tranny and can NOT be attached to frame or cross member.
18. Use motor and tranny of choice, motor must be in stock location. You may chain or weld motor and tranny to keep in place (don’t strengthen the frame). Nothing on the engine can be used to re-enforce the frame/car body, etc. If any parts on the engine or tranny are being used to make the car stronger, you will be asked to cut or take that part off before you can run.
19. You may have a 2-2” strap from the motor head to frame on top side of frame next to A-arm on front side of motor and can be welded with no added metal! You will be allowed 2- 2” straps on the rear of the motor connected from the motor heads to 3” from back of A-arms. If this is used to re-enforce frame, straps will be cut! If you have Dist Protector, you can’t have rear straps on engine to rails frame!
***20. You may have tranny braces along the side of the tranny & on top side. The braces must be attached to tail house and bell housing of tranny only. Can not be connected to tranny mount or cross member. Braces can ‘t be bigger then 2”X 2”
STEERING:
21. Tie-rods ends must be stock, but the center can be re-enforced, A-arms, ball joints and all other steering/suspension must remain stock. You may alter your steering column to prevent loss of steering. Steering knuckles, homemade steering shafts, etc.
FENDERS:
22. You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance & you may weld fender over tire back together. Fenders may also be bolted together with 12-3/8” bolts or less. The rear quarter panel is considered part of the rear fender.
MISC:
23. For safety, you are allowed 1 strap in each door window opening straps can be 2” wide – ¼” thick and can be welded 5” on the door & 5” on the roof – you may not use wire if you use straps ** Hardtop cars may have another strap at the door post and not to cage. You must have 2 bars in windshield from roof to dash for safety reasons. The windshield bar can’t be any bigger then 3” wide- 5” on dash – 5” on roof only. The windshield bars must be a minimum of 3” outside the DP! Can only connect bars 3” above firewall.
24. You can run shifter through floor and you can have a switch panel. You may also have a hand throttle. If you are running an electric fuel pump – must be hooked up to your ignition switch – so when your car shuts off – it shuts off.
25. You are allowed 2 spots with 4 loops of #9 wire or 1 loop of 3/8 cable with 1 turn buckle in each window opening and may go to the frame. Turn Buckle must have 3 inches of clearance from body . You may weld washers around holes on car body. Wagons can have 2 althread from roof to frame but must be threw body mounts. If you use althread, only 1 spot of wire/cable per back windows
26. You may run wire from frame rail to frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear-end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain/cable in 1 spot only. This must go around the frame, it can not be bolted to the frame.
27. You are allowed to bolt Factory body seams together. NO WELDING!!!!
***28.Dist. Cap protectors will be allowed on all cars. The protector can only be mounted to engine and or tranny bell housing. There must be 6 inches of clearance between the Fire wall/dash sheet metal and the dash bar at the start of the event. Dist. Cap protector can't be mounted to body, frame, cage. No rear engine straps can be connected to DP! DP can’t be bigger the 12”X12”
***29. 1977 & newer GM’s only can weld 1 plate on the outside only 1 side of rear arch over rearend. This plate can only be 6 inches wide, 22 inches long and ¼” thick. You must drill a ½” hole in the plate so that we can see the thickness. You will not be allowed to patch over this plate if it bends! You must follow the frame rails with the plates.
***30. Gas tank protector are allowed, no wider than 24 inches in center of car, must be at least 1” away from rear sheet metal. This may angle straight back from rear seat bar in center of car and must be 4” off the floor. Gas tank can’t be connected to protector unless gas tank is mounted to top of protector and not to floor. Protector must be free floating- not connected to anything but back bar!
***31. No frame shaping or manipulating of frames. You will be allowed to hammer in the sides of rear aches only. No squaring!
***32. Front frame can shortened but only to the front side of radiator support. Radiator support must remain in stock location!
RUST REPAIR & FRAME REPAIR:
32. You may repair rusted out sheet metal with sheet metal only. Leave the rust in place and repair over it. Rusted out frames may be repaired with 3/16 inch or less. You are allowed to weld the patch 2 inches past the rusted out area, leave the rust in place.
33. Bent frames only may be repaired with 4” X 6”- 3/16” thick flat plate. You are only allowed 4 plates per frame rail front and rear of car. The center door post divides the car in half. The patch may be welded solid, but you must have a 1/2 inch hole in the patch. You can only repair the frame once in each place. No re-patching or layering of patches. Plates must have a 1” space between plates.
34. No repairs at the events! You must repair after event and then run another event.
COMPACT CLASS: In addition to the above rules- 4 & 6 Cylinders only.
1. Any-Front wheel driver compact108”or less car but rear wheel driver compact cars must have a 105” or less wheelbase. If the stock gas tank is located under the car but in front of rear axle, the stock gas tank may be used.
2. Can only weld front side of A-arms/struts forward, top side only. You are allowed 16” of weld dash forward besides A-arms forward. No rear ends bigger the 5 lugs factory can be used. Struts can be re-enforced but must be stock on each end of strut.
3. When using stock tank under car, must relocate Fill tube threw floor into backseat area. Secure fill tube to sheet metal
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Post by captaincrunch7 on Jan 16, 2013 21:25:36 GMT -5
How many cars are expected? I don't want to drive 3 hours one- way just to watch 10-12 cars do the circle jerk..
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Post by 355olds on Jan 16, 2013 23:16:14 GMT -5
I asked the same question on wecrash and never got an answer!
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Post by waylontheman on Jan 17, 2013 10:14:12 GMT -5
How many cars are expected? I don't want to drive 3 hours one- way just to watch 10-12 cars do the circle jerk.. Last year there were 21 I think in its first year. Good mix of KS and MO guys. Was probably one of better derbies I had watched in last 5 years(imo). I have heard some pretty names coming but Rob probably can't give you an exact number because they arent going to preenter. Just my 2 cents. |
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Post by captaincrunch7 on Jan 17, 2013 10:40:48 GMT -5
Ok thanks for the info. around 20 good cars would be worth the trip..
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Post by waylontheman on Jan 17, 2013 11:16:02 GMT -5
Last year the average distance traveled of the top 3 in the fullsize was 265 miles one way. So good mix of good drivers. Think it will be the same this year;)
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Post by crusher71 on Jan 20, 2013 0:33:12 GMT -5
ANYONE GO TO WATCH? WONDERING WHAT THE OUTCOME WAS AND HOW MANY SHOWED UP TO RUN?
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Post by LincolnSt178 on Jan 20, 2013 16:04:23 GMT -5
I think there were 10 or 11 fullsize and 6 or 7 compacts. A black vic #4 won the feature, someone else will have to fill in the name with nick erlacher in 2nd. The arms bros ran 1st and 2nd in the compacts with a good looking lumina in 3rd, didn't catch his name either.
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