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Post by mudflapsr on Jun 26, 2013 11:58:43 GMT -5
Full Size Cars
No 2003 and newer Ford vehicle or frames unless the stock engine cradle and suspension is used. No hearses, ambulances, limos, vans,Imp or Imp subs minivans, SUVs, trucks, or any other vehicle considered a truck allowed . 1979 and newer GM cars will be allowed into this class. 1977 and 78 Chevy Impalas and Caprices will also be allowed. Used or Pre-ran cars may fix ripped, torn, bent, or twisted frames. The site in need of repair must be obvious to the judges. All cars will be allowed 24in of repair plate per frame rail all plates must have a 3/8 hole in them(4inwide x 3/16inthick). The plate may be as long as you want, but you only have 24in total per frame rail. So you can put one 24inx4inplate on each hump and be done or you may put two 4inx4in plates on the front and a 8inx4in plate on the hump (per frame rail). If you dont understand this, please call. All excess plates and welds will be cut off or if its excessive, you will not run. Any plate longer than 4in must have a Â1/2 hole drilled in it to prove thickness and that it is the only plate welded in that site. Cage Bars: For the drivers protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost and it can be in an X shape if desired, but may not touch, connect, or be welded to the frame. It also must be no more than 6in away from the back of the drivers seat. You may also weld in a dash bar where the factory dashboard was located. You are only allowed ONE dash bar! This bar must be at minimum 6in away from any other sheet metal on the firewall or any engine component or distributor protector before the show. You may also weld door bars vertically from the dash bar to the bar between the doorposts along the inside of both the drivers and passenger side doors. These bars may not be longer than 60in, so your seat bar must be within the length of this bar. You may also weld in four down bars from the bars along the doors down to the floorpan or top of the frame rail to protect the drivers feet/legs or a battery if its located on the passenger floorboard. These down bars must be within the door seams and must be straight up and down, not angled. If you run a halo bar in the back, this may go to the floor sheet metal/frame and will count as your two back down bars. These bars cannot be connected to any body bolt or body bolt washer and must be at least 4in,away from any body bolt or washer. None of the bars listed may be larger than 8†in diameter except the down bars and they may not be wider than 6in. Halo or Roll Bars: You may weld a roll bar to the bar behind the drivers seat, but this bar must be placed in the car vertically. It may be welded to the the rear drivers cage bar. There may be three bolts throughthe top crossover bar through the roof sheet metal. It may not be welded to the roof. If you have your halo bar welded to the top of the frame, this counts as your two rear down bars as stated above. Drivers Door: Please reinforce your drivers door very good. You will in all likelihood take at least one shot in the door, so make it safe! The drivers door must be welded shut for safety. You may weld both the inner and outer door seams solid. We also recommend that you reinforce the door skin. You may weld a plate across the door, but it may not extend more than 6†past the front and rear door seem. You may also place a pipe inside the drivers door, but it also cannot extend more then 6in past the front and rear door seem. No grader blades allowed on the outside of the door. Windshield Bars: A minimum of two steel straps or bars (not to exceed 2in) must be located in the windshield area. They may be welded or bolted into place. If welded, they may have only 6in of weld total at the top and 6in of weld at the bottom and must attach to sheet metal only. They may not be connected or welded to the hood. They may not act to strategically strengthen the car or they will have to be cut/ altered as the officials see fit. Battery: Must be re-located to the interior of the passenger compartment and we recommend the passenger side floor board. The battery or batteries must be in a solid container and covered. They also must be securely attached to the floorboard of the vehicle or cage, not to the frame in any way. Gas Tanks and Gas Tank Protectors: No plastic gas cans unless it is a plastic or urethane fuel cell, in which case it must be placed inside a metal container. Steel boat tanks are recommended. 10 gallon maximum for any gas tank. Gas tanks must be securely fastened inside the passenger compartment and in the rear seat area. They must be fastened to the floor, rear seat area, or rear cage bar. You will be allowed a gas tank protector that may extend backwards from the rear cage bar towards the rear seat area. It may not be larger than 24inx6in at the back and must be at least 1†away from the sheet metal/package tray on fresh cars. Rear seat sheet metal may not be beat back or moved. We must be able to run our hand between the rear seat sheet meal and the gas tank protector. The bars may run straight back or angle in, but the rear bar may be no wider than 24in and none of this apparatus may touch any sheet metal or the frame in any way. If it is excessive and the judges deem that this apparatus will be or become an advantage to the car, it will not be allowed. We want this to actually protect the gas tank and that is it! The gas tank itself also may not act as any sort of reinforcement. The tank, if homemade, may not be wider than 24in. If you have modified your upper or lower control arm brackets to fit your rearend, and these new brackets will act to strengthen the frame along with your gas tank protector, you will have to cut your gas tank protector. Oil and Transmission Coolers: Engine Oil and Transmission Oil coolers are allowed. You must use high pressure hydraulic lines and fittings. Frame and Body Mounts: On the 1979 and newer GM cars, you may weld one plate on the outside only of the rear humps over the rear end. This plate may not exceed 6in wide, 22in long, and ¼in thick. There also must be three ½in holes drilled in these plates to prove the thickness. You must also follow the frame rails with these plates. If you have a used GM car, the above repair plate rule will still apply and this plate will not count as your repair plates, but you will only be allowed 16inX4in of plate to use to make your repairs. No frame/body swaps with older cars. No added metal to the car or body is allowed other than what is set forth in the rules to follow. Plain and simple, nothing is to be added to the inside or outside of the frame other than what is allowed. Absolutely no painting, undercoating, grease, silicone and dirt tricks on the frame. There is also absolutely no reason for there to be any metal located INSIDE the frame. Any attempt to obscure the frame holes to hinder the inspection of the inside of the frame will be considered grounds for disqualification. Scopes will be used! As for the re-shaping of the stock frame, this is ONLY what will be allowed. You may re-shape the frame from the rear humps backwards towards the rear bumper. This means where the frame begins to turnupward just behind the lower trailing arms mounts and rear seat back body bolt, you may re-shape your frame. This may include beating the sides in or squaring the edges. You may re-weld the top and bottom factory frame seams from the cross-member forward (unless you have moved your cross member back, this will be allowed from where the factory cross-member was located. ½in wide weld bead maximum. Vertical pinch welds on Chrysler cars may be folded and welded. This will allow you to properly weld any factory seam welds, and tilt or pitch your frame. You may repair rust, but read carefully. If the car is fresh, the rust must be cut out and the patch must fit inside the hole cut out. The plate may not overlap and MUST be the same thickness as the original frame metal. There must be a ½in hole drilled in this frame repair plate to prove its thickness. Cutting and/or pre-notching of the frame is allowed, but you may not re-weld the frame rails where it is notched or cut. No adding or subtracting body mounts. You may not move any body mounts either as to shorten the frame rail. If you move a body mount hole and your car cannot be made right, you will not run. Chrysler sufframe cars may add two additional body bolts (one per side) in the rear seat/trunk area. These bolts may not be larger than ½in diameter and must use regular ½in washers. If you try to use a larger washer, you will have to remove it all together and you will not be allowed to replace it. These to bolts may to through the floor sheet metal down through the bottom of the sub-frame. Body mount bolts may be replaced with up to ¾in bolts. There must be at least a 1in space between the body and frame. Rubber bushings may be replaced with other spacers, but must be at least 1in thick and the same diameter as the original bushing. Spacers may be welded to the body, but not the frame. You may use original rubber body pucks, but you must leave the metal inserts in to maintain the 1in spacing. Do not devise a way to suck the body down tight to the frame. Maximum 5in body mount washers allowed on the top of the body bolts inside the passenger compartment and trunk. Sub-frame cars may have washers up to 2in larger than the factory body mount hole (for example: if the hole is 4in, the use of an 8in washer is permitted). These washers may not be welded to the floor pans or trunk floor. Washers inside the frame must be in stock location and may be 2âin larger than the original frame hole. Chrysler K-frame cars can remove the rubber spacers between the frame and the K-member and bolt them up tight. Bolts may be replaced with up to ¾in diameter bolts. Radiator support (or commonly called the Core Support) must remain in stock location. The radiator support mount bushings may be removed completely. The radiator support may contact the frame but must not be welded to it. The two radiator mount bolts may be up to 1in diameter. These two bolts may be welded to the frame. These two bolts may extend straight down through to the bottom side of the frame. No angling back to frames to form a kicker. These two bolts may extend up next to the radiator support, through to the top of the hood, and be used as two hood hold down bolts. These two bolts may be welded to the radiator support. These two bolts may be welded to the frame if they do not go down through the frame. Thicker (taller) than stock spacers are allowed between the radiator support and the frame. Spacers may be welded to frame or the support, not both. No bolts allowed in front of radiator. #9 Wire (four loops maximum) or cable (one loop of 3/8âin) from driver side frame rail, across to the passenger side frame rail, is allowed. If used, it must be located above and behind the rear axle housing. No welding. You are allowed 2 spots of #9 wire, no more than four wires thick, from roof sheet metal only to frame. You may weld in a standard ¾in washer on the roof sheet metal to keep the wire from ripping the metal. You must run the transmission cross member in the stock location. You can weld 2in angle iron no thicker than 3/16in, and no longer than 6in to the side of the frame to support the cross member. If you pre-bend your frame, you may not use this angle iron to reinforce your bend. The transmission cross member is the only way a transmission may be tied in. Do not attach transmission to dash bar or any other point that is not the cross member.
Body: Bodies must remain stock. No re-welding of factory seams inside the engine compartment, inside the passenger compartment, inside the trunk compartment, on the underside of the body, under the hood or trunk lid. No added bolts or screws to any body seams. No added metal anywhere on the body of the car because of “rustâ€. If the body is rusty, we must be able to see the rusted areas that have been fixed. Bodies will be drilled or cut open for inspection if needed as determined by the officials. Hoods must open for inspection. Hoods must remain in the stock location and position. Bending down, or bending up, excess hood in front of radiator support allowed. Other than that bend, hoods must remain flat. Hoods must have a minimum of two 12âin holes for fire control. Holes cut in hood for fire control, or exhaust may be bolted (not welded) back together with up to eight 3/8âin bolts (1in washers maximum) per hole. Hoods must be either chained or bolted shut. Hoods may have no more than ten 3/8in bolts (1in washer max) fastening inner/outer hood sheet metal together on hood itself. Hood bolts or washers may not be placed as to create any reinforcement. If hood is bolted shut: A minimum of four bolts ¾in diameter must be used. A maximum of six bolts (with the front two 1in radiator support bolts counting towards your six) allowed to hold your hood down. The factory hood hinges do not count as a hood hold down. Only the front two radiator support bolts may go down through the hood to the frame. The other four bolts, if used, must be sheet metal to sheet metal only. No bolts to be placed in front of radiator as protection. Washers for the topside of the hood may not exceed 5in square and 1/4in thick. The hood washer may be welded to the top of the hood. 5in square washers may also be welded to the inner fenders at the corners (fender to radiator support and fender to the fire wall or cowl) below the hood. Bolts may then be welded to these washers to hold the hood. 1in1/2 Angle Iron, no more than 6inlong welded to hood & fender/bolted together may be counted same as other hood bolts. If the hood is chained shut: A minimum of four spots of 1/4in chain must be used. A maximum of up to eight spots of 3/8in chain may be used. The use of 5in square washers is allowed as above. Fenders may be cut for a larger wheel well opening. Fenders may be bolted back together (with no welding) with up to eight 3/8in bolts (1in diameter washers maximum) per wheel well opening. Excess front fender in front of radiator support may be cut, folded over, and bolted (not welded) back together. Four 3/8in bolts (1in washers) allowed per fender for this. Doors must be chained, wired, bolted, or welded (exterior seams only) shut. You may weld the door seams and trunk lid solid. Chain must be a minimum of 1/4in, wire must be a minimum of two loops, bolts must be a minimum of 3/8in, and weld must be 4in on a minimum of two spots per door seam. No chain, wire, or bolts allowed to go to or around frame or cage. 3in wide by 1/8in strap maximum allowed to weld over the exterior door seams. You may also have one loop of #9 wire per window opening sheet metal to sheet metal no more than four wires thick. Trunk lids and station wagon tailgates may be chained, wired, bolted, or welded shut the same as the doors. Any two methods are allowed to fasten the trunk lid or tailgate. No method may go to or around the frame or rear bumper unless specified in these rules. Trunk lid may be tucked down inside the trunk compartment. Trunk lid may not be welded to the trunk floor pan. Two bolts (maximum 1in diameter) are allowed in the trunk from the bottom of the trunk pan up through the top of the trunk lid. These two bolts are allowed to go down through the top side of the frame only in the rear body mount holes. The bolt must be cut off flush with the bottom of the nut inside the frame. If the bolt sticks down through the bottom of the frame, it will have to be cut before an inspection will be done. If you choose not to run them through the body bolt hole, they may welded to the outside of the frame. These bolts will have to be welded to the side of the frame rail in a straight up and down manner. The use of 5in washers is allowed on the trunk lid the same as the hood. These two bolts must be cut flush with the top of the nuts. These two bolts are the only bolts allowed to hold the trunk lid down. If you beat your speaker deck and trunk lid down more than 2in, you must have a 12in inspection hole cut in the top of the trunk lid or floor board. Pre-forming or pre-bending the body sheet metal is allowed. It may be cut to shape it, but not allowed to re-weld or bolt back together (except for the front edge of the front fenders, wheel well radius, and hood holes). . Station wagon tail gates may be lowered, then chained, wired, bolted, or welded shut. No more than ten 3/8 bolts (1in washer max) may be used to bolt inner/outer trunk lid sheet metal together. If back bumper has been removed, Station Wagon gates maybe lowered & bolted or welded to back bumper brackets or shocks.Tops of doors, and areas that had moving windows, may be pinched together and welded. Weld bead only, no plates or other material allowed. Inspectors must be able to see down into the body. The re-welding of the doorpost or pillar, to the floor sheet metal is allowed on both the driver side and passenger side. No added metal The use of fabricated parts such as steering columns, fuel pedals, brake pedals, transmission shifters, seat brackets, battery boxes, fuel tanks (10gal max), and coolers allowed. Seat, battery, fuel tank, and cooler brackets must be welded to, or bolted to, the floor sheet metal. No chain, wire, or rubber type straps allowed to fasten these items. The seat, battery, fuel tank, and coolers must be secure. Steering column brackets and seat brackets may come in contact with, and be attached to these bars. No bracket may extend in front of the dash bar (other than steering column bracket). No bracket may extend past the rear of the seat bar except the gas tank bracket and protector. Brackets in the front seat area must be welded to, or bolted to, floor sheet metal only. Brackets in the front seat area may not be attached to the body mount washers. Brackets in the back seat area must be welded to, or bolted to, the floor sheet metal only. Bolts in the back seat area may not go through, or around, the frame or sub-frame. Brackets for the front seat area, and brackets for the back seat area, must be completely separate. One post or pillar is allowed in the rear window area. 2in x 2in square, or 2in round maximum size allowed. This post or pillar must mount to the back edge of the roof and extend down to the front edge of the original trunk lid seam on the body. One 5in x 5in x ¼in maximum size plate allowed at the top and one plate allowed at the bottom. These plates must be mounted to sheet metal only. This must be ONE bar and must remain straight. No looping or making a U-shaped bar. It’s one straight bar, or no bar. Remove all rear decking in station wagons. Suspension and Steering: YOU MAY CONVERT A WATTS LINK FORD TO A STANDARD GM REAREND IN THE FOLLOWING WAY: USE THE TRAILING ARM BRACKETS OFF AN OLDER FORD OR METAL OF THE SAME SIZE AND THICKNESS. NO POSITIONING OF THE BRACKETS TO STRENGTHEN THE FRONT DOWNLEG OF THE REAR HUMP. YOU MAY CUT OUT THE COIL SPRING FRAME TRAY FROM AN EARLIER YEAR FORD AND WELD IT IN THE NEWER FORD. IF YOU CHOOSE TO MANUFACTURE A SYSTEM FOR THE UPPER BRACKETS PLEASE CALL AHEAD. ONE PASS ONLY, 1/2in MAXIMUM. NO STRONGER THAN STOCK. You may not replace a ford package tray with a GM package tray, or vice versa. The package tray must be stock for that model of vehicle. Leaf spring packs may not have more than 7 leafs and must have 2in stagger in the front of the axle and the 2in in back of the axle. You may add 4 spring clamps per side, but not all four may be on either side of the axle. This means you may have two in front and two in rear, or one in front and three in rear. The clamps may not be larger than 5inx2inx1/4in and may have two ½in bolts holding them together. Front and rear factory leaf spring brackets, on Chrysler cars, may be welded to the floor brackets, and or sub-frame brackets. No leaf springs under non-leaf cars allowed. All shackles must be factory car shackles. No homemade shackles. Absolutely no welding allowed anywhere on the leaf springs or clamps. If your rearend is chained tight and down too low, you will be made to change it. The head judge will make the final decision on rear body height. The interchange of front spindles, rotors, and upper A-arms allowed (except for 2003 and newer Fords). The parts must not be reinforced or altered and must be considered OEM car, not truck or SUV. Only a minimum of fabrication is allowed to do this. The A-arm mounts, if needed, may not strengthen the frame, or be stronger than what is considered stock. You may reinforce your tie rods. You may weld or bolt your front A-arms down to the frame. If you bolt them, you may use one ¾in bolt on each side. If you weld them, you may have 2in of weld on the top of the frame in front of the A-arm and 2in behind. This weld cannot be to the vertical sides of the frame or act to strengthen the frame in any way or will be cut. This should allow you a 2inx2âin plate from the top of the frame rail to the A-arm both front and back to weld it down.Any rear axle assembly may be used as long as it is a factory five lug set up. No floater-type rearends. Rear axle braces are also allowed, but must not be any closer than 4in from the frame on fresh cars. This distance will be judged differently on used cars. There must be at least a 2in gap on used cars minimum from the frame rails to the axle tubes or bracing as long as the humps are kinked and this small of a gap was unavoidable. If the hump has been stretched can into original position and plated/repaired, the 4in gap is then required. The head judge will have the final call on this gap. This measurement is from the axle tube straight back and upwards towards the rear frame rail. Factory rear control arms on coil sprung cars may be lengthened or shortened. Only a minimum of reinforcing is allowed. Boxing of rear control arms, allowed. Double coil springs are allowed, (one coil spring turned inside a second coil spring). Coil springs may be wired, welded, or cabled in on top or bottom. Only one place is allowed to hold coil spring in. Air shock lines must be cut. You are allowed two chains or cable or wire total (one on each side of the center section/pinion of the rear axle) around axle housing to frame or body. May not be welded or bolted to frame or body, but just looped around it. It must be looped AROUND the rear frame, not bolted through the frame creating a pin. Altered or fabricated steering columns allowed. Tires: We do not want flats. No bigger than 15âin rims, no spit rims, no studded tires on driven wheels. No rim reinforcements. Wheels may have after market centers welded in, but no larger than 6in wheel centers. No spikes, paddles, or other material to be welded inside or to the rim. No liquid filled tires allowed. Rim screws allowed, but only on the inside of the wheel. Implement tread, forklift type, foam filled, urethane, solid, and double tires are allowed. Valve stem protection is allowed. Any ply allowed. Bumpers: Any car bumper allowed on any car. Bumpers may be cut. Bumpers may be chained, bolted, or welded on. Bumpers may be welded to the brackets, and brackets may be welded to the frame. Bumpers may be welded directly to the frame. Brackets may be cut. Use only factory brackets. No bracket or shock may extend rearward more than 14 inches from the rear of bumper mounting face. This is measured at the factory mount surface. You may weld your bracket on the outside or run the shock inside the frame (not both) no farther than 14in back from the bumper. All excess bracket must be cut off at that point. All shocks inside the frame may have a ½in bolt run through it and drilled all the way through the fame rail side to side. You may not weld the nut or bolt to the frame. Nothing may extend back past this 14in point inside or outside the frame. All brackets must make contact with the bumper. No extra steel or other material allowed as a bumper bracket. You may use either the factory brackets that came with the bumper, or you may use the factory brackets that came with the car, not both. Instead of using bumper brackets you are allowed to use 1- 4” wide x 3/8” thick strap extending from your bumper down one side of the frame and cannot extend any further back than the very front most part of your top-front a-arm bracket. You are also allowed to wrap this strap around the front of the frame 4” to create an “L” shape this is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to the strap. Do not abuse this rule you will cut it.
Bumpers may have seams welded. You may reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper. The bumper must start stock and may have metal put inside for reinforcement. Bumper chrome may be smashed down and welded to inner bumper support. Bumpers may be mounted upside down. Rear car bumpers allowed on the front. Front car bumpers allowed on the rear. Rear bumper brackets may only be used on the rear of the car. Front bumper brackets may only be used on the front of the car. You also may NOT take a stock bumper and re-shape it and then load it. An example would be taking a steel Ford Crown Victoria bumper and re-working it into a “pointy†Chrysler look-alike. If its a Ford bumper, it needs to remain a Ford Bumper. Just put your steel on the inside. No homemade bumpers allowed. Rear Bumpers, 4 chains or 4, 2in wide straps from rear bumper to car body allowed. No more than 5in of weld on straps on body and 5in of weld on bumpers. Bumpers must be smooth at the edges. Front Bumpers will be allowed two plates not to exceed 2†wide x ¼ thick and 4in long. These plates are to be welded on the top of the bumper and may extend backwards along the top of the frame. They may also be welded on the side of the frame if you choose to. The plates must lay flat against the frame and may be welded along the entire outside edge of the plate. This is to help you keep your bumper on during the show. It may not act as a gusset or any strengthening. It is to keep your bumper in place¦That is it! If you would rather, you may use #9 wire in two locations (two loops or 4 strands each) may be used from front hood hold-down/bolts to front bumper or two 3/8in chains. Bumper height not to exceed 24in to the bottom of the bumper from the ground and must be a minimum of 14in from the bottom of the bumper to the ground. Bumpers must be in stock location.If your bumper breaks loose during the event and is sticking out or has the potential to become a hazard, the show will be stopped and you have a choice. If the bumper can be removed completely, you may continue. If you choose not to take it off, you will be disqualified for that heat and may come back into the consolation heat if eligible. Engines: Engines and transmissions may be interchanged and mounts may be fabricated and welded as long as it does not strategically reinforce the frame, A-arms, or shock towers. No engine mounts, braces, cables, or chains may extend in front of, or behind the engine block. If you feel the need to chain your engine or engine cradle in, you may use one 12âin chain (3/8in max) from the top motor mount or cradle down to the to of the frame. You may weld two of the links to the top of the frame rail, not to the vertical frame surfaces. No engine or transmission mounting to dash bar! K frames in cars may be welded to the main frame rails. 1/2in filler rod maximum. No plates as filler allowed. This filler rod and weld must not extend 4'' in front of or 4in behind engine block. No K-frames in non-K-frame cars. AFTERMARKET ENGINE CRADLES ARE ALLOWED. PULLEY PROTECTORS ARE ALLOWED. IF YOU USE A FRONT MOTOR PLATE, IT MAY NOT BE GUSSETTED TO THE HEADER FLANGES OR ATTACHED IN ANY OTHER MANNER. THE DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTOR IS AND MUST REMAIN A SEPARATE ITEM, NOT CONNECTED TO ANY OTHER COMPONENT IN ANY MANNER. AN EXAMPLE TO THIS WOULD BE IF YOUR SWAY BAR IS CONNECTED TO THE PULLEY PROTECTOR. THIS WILL NOT BE ALLOWED
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Post by THEEXTREME on Aug 16, 2013 14:14:52 GMT -5
JUST SEEN ON THE FAKEBOOK THAT IS SAYS ATV RACES RESCHEDULED FOR SAT AT 6 AT FAIRGROUNDS......HOW IS THIS GONNA AFFECT THE DERBY OF WAS IT A MIS PRINT. INQUIREING MINDS WANNA KNOW.
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