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Post by 33stylee on Jul 31, 2013 16:52:20 GMT -5
It appears that I will be back for the fall show in McCune this year. I will post more details later as far as rules, classes, and payouts. I can only assume the rules will be the same as the spring show, but I will let you know for sure. -Jay
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Post by shinernation on Aug 14, 2013 14:30:06 GMT -5
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Post by shinernation on Aug 14, 2013 14:30:41 GMT -5
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hhr12
Sandbagger
Posts: 21
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Post by hhr12 on Aug 24, 2013 23:13:42 GMT -5
Jay are they going have the hobo class again
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Post by 33stylee on Aug 26, 2013 9:33:39 GMT -5
No, I'm sorry. The board decided to just run two classes and Hobo got the cut. There will only be full size and compact class. -Jay
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hhr12
Sandbagger
Posts: 21
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Post by hhr12 on Aug 26, 2013 17:57:02 GMT -5
K thanks for the heads up
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Post by 33stylee on Sept 5, 2013 11:12:20 GMT -5
Full Size Rules
Head Officials Note: These rules have been modified from their original author. I have highlighted the areas in which you will need to be aware of for the changes and clarifications. I hope to see you all in McCune. -Jay
Check in times!!! Read up people. YOU MUST BE IN LINE FOR YOU INITIAL INSPECTION 2 HOURS PRIOR TO THE SHOW. That means if the show starts at 1pm, you have to be in line by 11am, or if the show starts at 11am, you have to be in line by 9am, etc. The only inspections that will happen after the 2 hour mark will be re-inspections. If you know you have cutting to do and don’t want to do it ahead of time, you better show up early.
RULES AND REGULATIONS
Entries in the Demolition Derby are open to men and women who have a valid drivers license. The following regulations shall be observed for the safety and fairness of all.
ENTRY
1. Each driver must be 21 years old or have a notarized permit from parent. No driver under 16 years of age will be allowed. 2. Each driver must furnish his own car or have someone sponsor his car. 3. Only American cars and station wagons are permitted. No Chrysler Imperials, hearses, Jeeps, trucks, Carryalls, convertibles, mini vans or commercial vehicles will be allowed. 4. A driver may enter each heat BUT must have a different car for each heat.. 5. Prior to race time, each driver MUST sign an entry blank and each driver and pitman MUST sign a release form.
PARTICIPATION RULES
1. Drivers may maneuver either forward or backward. 2. Hitting an opponent's car in the driver’s door is NOT ALLOWED AND WILL BE DISQUALIFIED. 3. If a driver does not hit another legal car within 60 seconds, that driver shall be disqualified. Do not play "Possum". No team driving is allowed. (This will be covered in drivers meeting) 4. All drivers must attend the pit meeting prior to the race. 5. The driver MUST remain in his car until his car is removed by a tow. 6. No derby official may officiate a heat in which an immediate family member drives. 7. Any driver not in place when heat is called will be disqualified. 8. No DRIVER or PITMAN under the INFLUENCE OF ALCOHOL will be permitted to enter the performance area or to participate. 9. Pitmen are not allowed in the show arena during a heat. 10. No one will be allowed to stay in the pit area without a pit pass.** This will be strictly enforced. 11. No one under the age of 14 will be allowed in the pit area. ** This will also be strictly enforced. 12. Cars may be inspected at anytime for reinforcements, etc. and disqualified PREPARATION OF CARS
Vehicles may only be modified in the following ways. Any modifications not specifically authorized by the rules are prohibited. No unauthorized modifications are permitted in order to accommodate authorized modifications. Structural modifications are not permitted unless specifically authorized herein.
Advertising and printing may be placed on the car anywhere except the front doors. The DRIVER'S NAME should be placed above the NUMBER (use your own choice of number) on BOTH FRONT DOORS, in LARGE PRINT. NO OBSCENITIES ALLOWED.
1).ALL plastic, chrome, fiberglass, die cast metals and glass MUST BE REMOVED BEFORE REACHING THE FAIRGROUNDS. This means vacuuming the inside of doors, etc. If glass is found in the vehicle, you will not be allowed to compete. This rule will be strictly enforced.
2) Imperials, hearses, ambulances, trucks, jeeps, convertibles, and carryalls will not be allowed. (This includes imperial sub frames)
3) Concrete, metal plated, wood, foam, and pins in the frame will be considered added ballast and NOT allowed. (Exceptions will be stated below)
4) Welding on the frame will NOT be permitted except where stated below.
Welding Exceptions (A-L) A. Door seams, trunk lid seams, and wagon gate seams may be welded with 1” by ¼” strap or equivelant. Examples: ½“ rebar, 2“x 1/8“, 4“x1/16“ absolutely nothing wider than 4“ Smaller material may be used.
B. 1 pipe not to exceed 3” diameter in the place of the dash and 1 pipe not to exceed 3” diameter placed no more than 6” behind the driver’s seat will be allowed. A 5” by 5” by ¼” plate can be welded on each end of these 2 pipes. A third pipe will be allowed on the passenger side that connects to the other two pipes. The third pipe will be inside the car, but next to the inside door panel is OK. Rollover/Halo bars permitted, but must be vertical, attached only to the cross pipe behind seat, and must have a 1“ gap between bar and roof of car when fresh. No bolting or attaching halo bar to roof in any way.
C. Any factory sheet metal seam may be welded without filler material.
D. A maximum of 2 straps (1” by ¼”) can be welded on the front of the car. A maximum of 2 straps (1” by ¼”) can be welded to the back of the car. All straps on the front and back of the car must be placed vertically, and not longer than 36 inches in length, and must attach to the bumper.
E. Driver’s door may be braced from 6” in front of the door to 6” behind the door. Material used for this will not exceed 6” in width. Prefer to have the brace on the outside of the door. (You will not be allowed to race without a driver’s door brace.)
F. Station wagon decking must be removed.
G. Factory bumper mounts may be welded to the frame without using filler material. Mounts must stay in factory location front on front, back on back.
H. Shock bumper cars may weld the shock without using filler material.
I. Hood/trunk pins may be welded to the car body, but not to the frame. They may be bolted to the frame as a combination body mount/hood or trunk pin. A total of 6 pins will be allowed in the hood and 2 pins will be allowed in the trunk. All pins will be no greater than ¾” in size and through the top layer of the frame only.
J. Factory motor mounts can be welded without filler material. Homemade motor mounts may connect only to the engine cradle cross member.
K. Fender welds – You may use 25 3/8” bolts anywhere on body panels. The rear can be rolled up and welded. NO filler rod allowed.
L. Window seams may be rolled over and welded. NO filler rod allowed.
5) Gas tanks are to be placed on the floor behind the driver’s seat. It must be chained, strapped, or bolted securely to the floor. Recommended is a 6-gallon boat tank. Fuel cells must be covered with sheet metal.
6) Transmission coolers may be placed inside the car in the back seat area.
7) Body mounts may be changed to ¾" bolts or less. They may go through the top layer of the frame only. A stamped washer must be used inside the frame, but a 5" by 5" by ¼" plate may be used inside the car as a washer on the topside of the body mounts. Do not add any body mounts. All cars must have rubber body bushing or 2" spacer between body and frame. Spacer must not exceed 3" in diameter. If factory bolts are removed, aftermarket spacers must be used. No stock pucks.
8) Car trunk lids may be folded in one place to fit inside the trunk compartment. Do not invert your trunk lid. Removal of the trunk lid is acceptable. Any other prefolding will not be allowed. No wedging of the trunks, this includes sedagons.
9) Entire hood MUST open for inspection.
10) Motors may be changed, but must remain in stock position front to back. Example: A Ford motor in a Chevy is allowed.
11) Radiators must remain in original location and contain water and/or antifreeze only.
12) Air conditioning condensing core may be placed in front of the radiator. No other reinforcement such as expanded metal may be used.
13) Coil springs: Coil spring rear end cars may NOT be changed to a leaf spring rear end.
Leaf springs: Leaf springs can be replaced, BUT: Do NOT add any leafs to leaf spring cars. Leaf springs must have factory stagger and arch. Do NOT torch leaf springs, they must remain stock length. NO FLAT STACKS. 3 sets of additional spring clamps may be added per side.
Coil and leaf springs must remain factory thickness for that vehicle. You may run one chain from the rearend to the top of the frame arch on each side, or run one chain across from frame rail to frame rail in back, but not both. Chains must attach to frame only and not be used as an additional body mount.
14) You may have two places of #9 wire on the car. Your choice of location. Each place may not have more than two loops or 4 strands twisted.
15) No tractor lugs allowed. No larger than 16” tires.
16) Pre-run cars may repair a total of 24 inches long by ¼" thick by 4” wide PER Frame Rail. It must be form-fitted to the frame. Any excess will be cut off, there will be nothing hanging off. This means you may take a ¼” plate that is 24” long and 4”wide and cut it however you choose and repair any bent, ripped, or twisted frame. This rule will be strictly enforced.
17) Pre-run cars may patch a hole in the body of the car, but not replace the whole side of the car. If you patch a hole you must use sheet metal no greater than the sheet metal that makes up the original car body. This patch may overlap the outside of the hole 2”-4”. Don’t push your luck.
18) A-arms may be welded. Trailing arms may be altered, but not reinforced. Tie rods must remain stock, no alterations, but you may do cross-overs. (Ex. Ford on Chevy etc)
19) Rear ends may be changed to passenger car, ½ ton or less with 5 factory lugs. Any 5 lug rear end may be run.
20) You may have a distributor protector OR a kicker pipes. But not both. The kicker pipe shall be 3” in diameter from the FIREWALL (NOT THE DASH BAR) to 6” behind the A-arms. You may have a 6” plate on the firewall to attach kicker pipe to. The distributor protector or kicker pipes must be 6” away from any body or dash bar metal prior to the show unless it’s a used car; Then there must be 3” clearance (if the car is nosed up and the judge can see that.)
22.) Rust repair to body: must be 12 gauge or thinner and the rust must be visible to the judge. Judges decision prevails. This means the judge must be able to see the rust and tell the thickness of the repair metal. If it is found that you have double layered or used sheet metal too thick to repair the rust, you will be made to cut it ALL off or you will not run.
23.) Frames: NO frame repair on fresh cars. Frame seams may be welded front to back using NO WIDER than ¼’ beads (one pass).
24) All judges’ decisions are final. No refunds of entry fees will be allowed. Please come legal so we do not have any problems.
25) If it does not state specifically that you can do something to your car, then don’t do it.
Re-stub and tilt Rule
80’s and newer: may cut and tilt front stubs and re-weld. Re-welding must be no wider than ¼”.
Pre-run cars that have damage to the front end may replace the front frame section or subframe.
Subframes may be replaced by bolting through factory body mount holes according to our body mount rules.
Full frame cars may replace the frame “stub”. No front stub replacements on fresh cars.
The replacement of a full frame stub must be within the preceding rule and must also be from GM to GM, Chrysler to Chrysler, and Ford to Ford etc. The stub must also be from within the same model or “family” of cars. (i.e. ’03 Lincoln Town car stub under a ’95 Crown Victoria… Not an ’03 Crown Victoria under an older model Ford Galaxie)
ABSOLUTELY NO IMPERIAL SUBFRAMES.
New for 2013: 2003 and newer Ford Motor Products will be allowed to run but must follow the following rules. You may replace the factory engine crossmember and suspension with either an aftermarket “cradle” or you may “retro-fit” suspension onto the car. Let me be perfectly clear here. You may only weld or bolt components onto the front frame section so as to hold those components on. Absolutely NO excessive welding or fabricating. If you have done something that strategically strengthens the frame, you WILL NOT run…period. The head judge has the final say in this area and all other areas of car preparation and driver participation.
Cars could be re-inspected after the Feature.
IF THIS REPAIR IS DONE INCORRECTLY THEN YOU WILL NOT RUN. IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS YOU NEED TO CONTACT US.
JUDGES RULINGS ARE FINAL
ALL PRIZES WILL BE GIVEN AT THE CONCLUSION OF THE DERBY
NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ACCIDENTS, SHOULD ANY OCCUR
Any questions about rules or car preparation should be directed to Jay Armbrister at 785.393.1721
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Post by 33stylee on Sept 5, 2013 11:13:24 GMT -5
Compact Rules
2013 McCune Lions Club Derby Compact Class Rules
Any compact car or truck is allowed to compete in this class within the following specs: 106” maximum wheel base for rear wheel drive cars and trucks, and 108” maximum wheel base for front wheel drive cars.
No V8’s allowed in this class unless that specific year and model of car or truck came from the factory with a V8. (you better bring some documentation with you as your proof)
1. NO extra welding will be allowed on any part of the body or frame. The only welding allowed is in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you will not run!! NO OVER BUILT HARD CARS ALLOWED MUST BE TO THE RULES. Any added metal or other form of “cheating” that is hidden or attempted to be hidden is grounds for automatic disqualification.
2. All doors must be chained, wired, bolted or welded shut. Drivers door may be welded inside and outside. All doors may be welded shut with strap no bigger than 3” by 1/8” thick. Tops of the doors may be pinched together and welded but do not add any filler material.
3. For drivers protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X shape, and you may also have a bar across your dash where the dashboard used to be. You may also weld two bars inside of the front doors from the dash bar to the back bar. You may have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be welded or bolted to the roof. Back of cage including roll bar can only be 10” behind the back of the driver seat. You can also weld a plate across the drivers door not to exceed 6 inches past each seam. No kickers going back or front of the car off of any cage or roll bars. You may also weld a steering column to the cage. You may also weld a pipe from the drivers side door bar down to the floor or frame vertically. This pipe may not extend any further forward than the front door seam and must stay between the dash bar and seat bar. Please reinforce your drivers door very good, in this type of competition, all drivers doors will take some type of hit during the event. We want you to be safe and protected behind your reinforcement.
4. Bumpers are interchangeable, but must be a stock automobile bumper. Use bumper brackets from the cars stock bumper - no enclosing or boxing frames with bumper brackets or foreign material. No homemade bumpers or bumper brackets. You can weld bumper brackets or towers to the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock towers. You can collapse shocks, and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with 1/2” bolt or less, and it must be done vertically. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding the bumper skins (chrome to inner liner) is allowed. When welding bumpers, shocks, and brackets - do not add any metal. Weld them solid. We do not want them coming off. No welding bumper to the body in any fashion. Bumper height not to exceed 24” from the bottom of the bumper to the ground. Bumpers must be in stock location. No reshaping of a bumper. And example of this would be; you cannot take a stock bumper and cut, weld, and stuff it to look like a Chrysler Pointy bumper.
5. Bumpers may be welded to the end of the frame with no added metal, just welding wire. Front and rear bumpers may have 2 chains or 4 loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed in front of the radiator.
6. 2-1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame, MUST go through body mount hole, and you must have a 1” spacer between the body and frame or you may use wire in 2 spots with 4 loops from trunk lid and may go around the frame with the wire. DON’T DO BOTH. Trunk lids may be chained/ wired/welded/ bolted from sheet metal to sheet metal. Chryslers may weld all thread to side of frame but the all thread must be vertical and go up through the deck lid, or they can go through the frame if they so choose.
7. You can fold hoods or trunk lid over.
8. Hood must have at least a 12 inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be bolted back together with 8-3/8” or less bolts and 1” diameter washer. You may cut multiple holes but do not exceed the 8 bolts. You are allowed 8 spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of 4 tie down spots. You may have up to 1” all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame, but must go through the front body mounts. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only, and the hold down bolts cannot exceed 8” in length! You may have plates for hood tie down, not to exceed 5”x5”x1/4”square washers or 6” x1/4” round washers.
9. Body mount bolts can be replaced with 1” bolts, body mounts can be replaced with steel washers but must be 1” thickness and have the same diameter as stock spacers. Bolts may extend through body and have up to a 5x5x1/4” square or 6”x1/4” round washer on top, washers must be separate. Bolts must be up inside of frame as factory and may have larger washer inside of frame. If you choose to use a body mount hole for your trunk ready bolt this does not have to be up inside frame, the plate can not go on the bottom side of the frame. Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid. Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added. Do not add bolts, wire, chain, or cable in any fashion from the body to the frame other than stated in these rules. Chrysler k-member cars can remove the rubber spacers between the frame and k-member and bolt them up tight. Bolts may be replaced with up to ¾” in diameter. All cars, if you choose to leave in the stock rubber pucks you must leave the metal cones inside the rubber puck. You must leave at least a ¾” space if using the factory rubber spacer. Do not devise a way that enables you to suck them down tight.
10. You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal only. Do not cut rust out; weld 2” beyond rust. If your frame is rusted through, call for instructions on how to the fix the rust hole. DO NOT FIX IT WITHOUT CALLING AND EXPECT US TO ALLOW YOU TO RUN IT.
11. Suspension must be stock height. Leaf springs must be stock and made of stock spring material, with a 1” stagger and no springs can be as long as the main leaf. You can only have a total of 7 leaf springs per side no thicker than 3/8" thick. The main leaf must be the top spring in the spring pack and leaf springs must go down from longest to shortest in minimum 1” stagger. You can re-clamp springs, 6 clamps per side with only 4 being homemade. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4”. You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring, you can double the rear springs (they may be tied together in no more than two spots, do not weld them together), or put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other ways except what is listed above. You can bolt, wire, or chain coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them from becoming unbolted. You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8” chain or 4 loops of #9 wires) from rear end to frame in 2 spots on each side, must go around frame, do not bolt the chain to the frame. We are going to allow you to weld the chain to the side of the frame, for your chains from the frame to the rear end, you can weld one link only to the side of the frame if you choose to weld the chain instead of wrapping it around the frame.
12. Rear end control arms can be reinforced. If you reinforce your control arms you must build them starting with a stock set. They maybe shortened or made longer.
13. You can run shifter through the floor, and you can have a switch panel. If you are running an electric fuel pump, it must be hooked up to your ignition switch, so when your car shuts off so does the fuel pump.
14. You may alter your steering column to prevent steering loss.
15. You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with 5 -3/8” bolts or less with 1” diameter washers. No rolling your fenders and welding them. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the core support do not exceed 4- 3/8” bolts with 1” washers to bolt back to the core support of fender.
16. For safety, all cars must have (2) windshield bars extending from the roof of the car to the firewall/dash, straps cannot be any larger than 3/8"x3". If and only if you remove a part of the firewall/dash you are allowed to connect these two bars. The removed part must be completely removed and must be as wide as the vertical bars. The horizontal bars connecting the two vertical bars cannot be any larger than 3/8"x3" straps. No more than 6" of strap material allowed on the roof and no more than 6" of strap material allowed on the firewall. Do not go over 6" on roof or firewall or you will cut. If the firewall/dash is completely cut out you can weld a strap from the dash sheet metal to the dash safety bar, on either side of the cut out portion. Do not connect the windshield bars to the dash safety bar in any manner.
17. You are allowed 2 spots with 4 loops of wire (no cable or chain) in each window opening and may go to the frame. All #9 wire going through the windows must stay in the passenger compartment. When going through the floor and around the frame it has to go through the flat part of the floor. If you don’t understand please call first.
18. You may run wire from frame rail to frame rail underneath the back of car, behind rear end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This must go around the frame, not bolting it to the frame. Do not pass this wire through the trunk as it would be another body mount, must go under trunk floor.
19. Rewelding of factory frame seems (both top and bottom) from the "A" arms forward is allowed. No welding behind the "A" arms is allowed. Do not paint the frames at all, we want to see the welds. No welding of body seams inside the engine compartment unless it is where the subframe meets the body on subframe cars.
20. No radiator guards
21. Use motor and tranny of choice, motor must be in stock location. You may chain your motor and tranny to keep it in place, but don’t strategically strengthen the frame. You are allowed one piece of chain from each side of the engine to go to the top side of the frame rail. You may weld two chain links to the top of the frame only. These may not go to the side of the frame nor can they be bolted through the frame. Motor cradles are OK and can be welded to the cross member.
22. You may not weld the sway bar to the engine/cradle.
23. You must run the transmission cross member in the stock location. You can weld 2” angle iron no thicker than 3/16”, no longer than 6” to the side of the frame to support the cross member. If you pre-bend your frame do not use angle iron to re-support the bent area. The transmission cross member is the only method my which the transmission may be tied in. Do not attach transmission to dash bar or any other point in the car other than the cross member. If you have questions on this please call!!!!!!
-Jay Armbrister JackWagon Promotions 785.393.1721 jackwagonpromotions@gmail.com
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Post by 33stylee on Sept 24, 2013 13:52:01 GMT -5
Needed clarification... I said the rules will be the same as the Spring show, but forgot I had to change them before the show.
The change was that the 24" of plate rule is for BOTH new and used cars. I doubt we will see too many new cars, but in case we do, I want the playing field to be level.
Another note on the 24" of plate rule. If you take a tape measure and hold it against the back face of your bumper and mark a line at 14", this is where I will begin counting your 24". The 14" behind the bumper is free and for your bumper bracket. -Jay
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Post by LincolnSt178 on Sept 26, 2013 11:59:57 GMT -5
Can you still reserve spots for trucks by the fence to watch the derby? If so what is the number to call? Thanks
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Post by 33stylee on Sept 27, 2013 17:53:06 GMT -5
Call Clint McColm. He's on the Lions Club and I have nothing to do with that side of things. -Jay 620-562-9617
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jmac1
Sandbagger
Posts: 17
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Post by jmac1 on Sept 28, 2013 11:31:08 GMT -5
This show rain or shine?
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Post by LincolnSt178 on Sept 28, 2013 12:49:37 GMT -5
Alright I appreciate it.
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Post by 33stylee on Sept 28, 2013 17:17:43 GMT -5
I had Clint's number wrong. It's (866) 562-9617.
I'm assuming it will be perfect weather tomorrow. See you there!
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Post by 33stylee on Sept 30, 2013 10:49:00 GMT -5
21 Full Size Cars 8 Compacts
I honestly don't recall the names of the winners
I want to thank all the drivers for being very cool during inspections. Not one problem to be had. For that I thank you
There were a few glitches in the show and a few upset drivers. Some were upset rightfully so and some were just the victim of the ball bouncing the other way. One mistake (and it was substantial) was on me. I told a guy he could bring a car without consuting my own rules and it was clearly not to the rules, but I had told him he could run it. I can't go back on my word and he ran and did well. The other drivers beat by him have every right to be upset with me, but I stand behind my call. If I give somebody my word, I stand by it. All I can do is apologize to the rest.
The last thing is this... This was my last show as a promoter/inspector. I am shutting JackWagon Promotions down, so all of you out there that want to get on here and trash me and my crew and tell me how you'll never run another one of my shows...I just beat you to the punch. Thanks for having me down and I really enjoyed meeting all of you guys down there. Kichler...You were very good to me and I thank you for that. Thank man -Jay
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