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Post by PAY UP $ SUCKER! on Jun 5, 2014 23:46:32 GMT -5
General Rules.
NO 2003 & Newer Ford cars or frames.
1. Official’s decision is final.
2. No profanity allowed on the cars. No one under the influence of drugs or alcohol will be allowed to participate. Classless behavior will not be tolerated.
3. Driving. You must make aggressive contact with another live car in less than one minute. If you do not make aggressive enough hits, we will let you know. No intentional driver door hits. Depending on the severity of the hit, we may simply warn you, or we may break your stick. If you use your driver’s door to block another car, do not expect that car to be disqualified for the driver’s door hit. Official’s decision final.
4. During competition stay in the car. Keep your helmet on. Keep your hands and arms inside the car.
5. During competition, no driver, pitmen, or spectators shall approach the officials. Classless behavior will not be tolerated. Official’s decision is final.
6. If you are black flagged (for example a door hit), you finish in that spot, not last, and receive that place trophy and winnings, if any.
7. Cars may be disqualified at any time. We will re-inspect the Top five after the derby is over. IF a car is found to be illegal, it will be disqualified and finish last.
8. NO BITCH RULE!
CAR PREP & BUILD 1. Overall condition must be safe. This applies to used cars as well as some fresh cars. IF the officials deem the car unsafe to run, it will not run.
2. Fire jacket highly recommended. Long pants are required. Eye protection and gloves highly recommended. Shoes are required.
3. Minimum of D.O.T. rated helmet required. Full-face helmets recommended.
4. Seat belts are required, must be functional, and fastened to the floor or seat bracket. Official’s decision is final.
5. Car must be fully stripped of all flammable material. Factory seats and factory dash are allowed. All glass, chrome, door handles, and any unsafe items must be removed from the inside and outside of the cars. All plastic, stainless and pot metal trim, fiberglass, and rubber must be removed from the outside of the car. Car floor, trunks, and inside of doors must be swept of glass, debris, and must be clean. Factory fuel tank(s) must be removed. Unused factory fuel lines must be blown free of gas. Removing unused fuel lines recommended. Factory fuel tank may not be re-used.
7. Cage & Hallo bar For driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X do not connect directly to frame, and you may also have a bar across your dash area to replace your dash (must be at least 6” away from all sheet metal, firewall, dash, and floor tin). You may run a bar down each front door connecting the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front doors only. You can also weld a plate across the driver’s door not to exceed 6 inches past each seam.
You may have a roll loop behind the seat, (Halo Bar) which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be welded or bolted to the roof. These roll over bars, behind the seat only, must be vertical (not angled up and back)– no kickers going back or front of the car. You may also weld a steering column to the cage. Back of cage including roll bar can only be 10” behind the back of the driver seat. You may also run 2 down bars (one drivers side & one passenger side) from the door bar down to the floor. Do not extend any further forward than the front door seam, between the dash bar and seat bar, on the driver’s side only may be welded to frame , passenger side welded to floor sheet metal only.
**Please reinforce your driver’s door very good, in this type of competition all drivers doors will take some type of hit during the event. We want you to be safe and protected behind your reinforcement.** 8.Driver’s door must be welded shut for safety. Welding the outer driver’s door seams completely is highly recommended. Welding the inner driver’s door seams allowed. Outer driver’s door skin reinforcement is allowed and highly recommended. Outer drivers door bar may not extend in front of the front door seem more than 6”, and may not extend past the rear door seem more than 6”. Reinforcement on the inside of the driver’s door with pipe, bars and other material is allowed. No Grader Blades on out side of door!! Use flat iron if you rein force the outside of drivers door.
10. A minimum of two steel straps or bars must be located in windshield area. These may be bolted or welded and must only attach to sheet metal. No more than 6 inches of weld on each end on roof and windshield area.
11. Battery must be re-located inside of passenger compartment. The battery must be in a solid container and must be securely fastened and covered.
12. No steel gas “cans” or plastic gas “jugs” allowed. A steel boat tank is recommended, however any metal tank deemed safe by the officials is acceptable. Any plastic or urethane “fuel cell” must be in a solid metal container and must be covered with metal. The fuel tank must be securely fastened inside the passenger compartment. Fuel cell cannot exceed 12”x12”x12” or 7 gallons. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat use to be. No other source of gas inside the car at all.Official’s decision is final.
14. Cars must have some type of working brakes.
15. Oil coolers, engine and transmission, are allowed. IF air coolers (fans) are used, a shield must be located between the cooler and the driver. High-pressure hydraulic lines and fittings are recommended. No gas hose is allowed. It must be compatible with transmission oil. If oil hose is used, minimum of two hose clamps per fitting. Non high-pressure oil hose must be covered. Engine cooler hose and fittings must be high pressure.
16. Electric fuel pumps are allowed, must have high pressure fuel line, All fuel hose must be covered. And be safe!
17. No wheel weights or balance weights allowed on wheel rims.
18. Radiator coolant over flow tubes must point straight down.
Car Building Rules. Old Iorn .. 1960 thru 2002 cars allowed. Same as 80's build rules. No frame swaps, trucks, vans, compacts, Imps etc
. No compact cars, hearses, ambulances, limos, vans, minivans, or any vehicle considered a “truck” or “SUV” allowed. No 2003 & or newer ford cars or frames.
If it is not allowed in the following rules, then do not do it!
Frame and Body Rules:
1. Official's decision is final.
WE WILL ALLOW 16" OF PLATE PER FRAME RAIL ON ALL CARS FRESH OR PRE RAN
2. No frame / body swaps with older cars. No added metal to car body or frame other than what is allowed!!
3. Frames must remain stock. No re-welding factory frame seams other than what is allowed. No filling holes in frame, big or small! No frame plating inside or out. No re-painting frames with paint or under coating. No “grease and dirt tricks”. No means NO! If you have any paint, undercoating, or other dirt grease tricks, foam or mouse nest etc. inside your frame you won’t pass inspection! No welding on frame anywhere, other than what is allowed in these rules. Scopes will be used for inspection!!
4. Re-welding of factory frame seams (both top side and bottom side) from the back of the crush box forward or firewall forward on old iron is allowed . 1/2” wide weld bead maximum. Vertical pinch welds on Mopar cars may be folded and welded. The re-welding (12” total length, ½” wide bead maximum, per frame rail) of factory frame seams from the “A” frames rearward is allowed. This rule is to allow the welding of frame seams that were not welded correctly at the factory. Only a total of 12” allowed. This may be 5” on top, 7” on the bottom, etc, for a total of 12”, per frame rail. You may cut factory frames seams to tilt or pitch & re-weld as long as it is in the weld rule.
Uni-Body Cars. May have a toatal of 12 inches of weld to repair factory spot welds from back doors rearward.
For rust repair ONLY. You can use a 4in piece of plate MAX and MUST be same thickness as frame this dont mean 1/4in or 3/8 SAME THICKNESS AS FRAME. You must cut out the old piece of rust and fit the new in WITHOUT overlapping at all and must have 2 3/8 holes drilled in it. This is the only way you can repair rust you will be allowed 2 places MAX and no more.
5. Cutting and or pre-notching the frame are allowed, but must not re-weld rear frame rails if cut or notchedt. No adding of body mounts to the frame allowed. Do not move the any body mount hole to shorten a frame rail. If you move a body mount hole and your car cannot be made right it will not run.
6. Engines and transmissions may be interchanged and mounts may be fabricated and welded as long as it does not strategically reinforce the frame, “A” frames, or shock towers. No engine mounts, braces, cables, or chains may extend more than 4” in front of, or 4” behind the engine block. Maximum length of angle or plate is 4”. Maximum size allowed is 2” x 2” x ¼”. Angle or plate must extend upward from top of frame only. Engine mounts may only be attached to the top of the frame rail, no welding to vertical frame surfaces. No engine or transmision mounting to dash bar! “K” frames in cars may be welded to the main frame rails. 1/2” filler rod maximum. No plates as filler allowed. This filler rod and weld must not extend 4'' in front of or 4” behind engine block. No K-frames in non-K-frame cars.
7.Distributor protectors allowed, must be attached to engine or transmission only, backside must be no wider than 12 inches. If you run a DP...do not mount your dash bar closer than 6 inches from any sheet metal, firewall, dash, or floor tin. DP. may not be welded, bolted or connected to body, hood or frame. Forward supports must be inside normally positioned headers and not extend past the water pump.
AFTERMARKET ENGINE CRADLES ARE ALLOWED. PULLEY PROTECTORS ARE ALLOWED. THE DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTOR IS AND MUST REMAIN A SEPARATE ITEM, NOT CONNECTED TO ANY OTHER COMPONENT IN ANY MANNER.
7. Body mount bolts may be replaced with up to 3/4” diameter bolts. . Spacers may be welded to the body, but not to the frame. Longer body mount bolts that enter the interior of the car are allowed. Maximum 4” washers on the topside of the trunk pans and floor pans are allowed. Sub-frame cars may have washers up to 2” larger than factory body mount hole (for example: if the hole is 4”, the use of an 8” washer is allowed). These washers may not be fully welded to the trunk pans or floor pans. Bolts must be cut flush with top of nuts. Body mount washers under or in frame MUST BE IN STOCK LOCATION, however these body mount washers may be up to 2” larger than the frame hole diameter.
7.Radiator support mount bushings may be removed completely. The radiator support may contact the frame but must not be welded to it. The two radiator mount bolts may be up to 1”diameter. These two bolts may be welded to the frame. These two bolts may extend straight down through to the bottom side of the frame. No angling back to “A” frames to form a “kicker”. These two bolts may extend up next to the radiator support, through to the top of the hood, and be used as two hood hold down bolts. These two bolts may be welded to the radiator support. These two bolts may be welded to the frame if they do not go down through the frame. Thicker (taller) than stock spacers allowed between the radiator support and the frame. No bolts allowed in front of radiator. Spacers may be welded to frame.
9. All trailer hitches, tow bars, and other material used for towing, must be removed completely.
10. Bodies must remain stock. No re-welding factory seams inside engine compartment. No re-welding factory body seams inside passenger compartment, trunk compartment, or seams under body. No re-welding seams under hood or seams under trunk lid. No added bolts or screws to body seams. No adding metal to body other than driver door. 2, ½” minimum, holes per rocker panel required for inspection. We drill the holes.
11. Hoods must open for inspection. Hoods must remain in the stock location and position. Bending down, or bending up, excess hood in front of radiator support allowed. Hoods must have a minimum of two 12” holes for fire control.Holes cut in hood for fire control, or exhaust may be bolted (not welded) back together with up to eight 3/8” bolts (1” washers maximum) per hole. Hoods must be either chained or bolted shut. Hoods may have no more than ten 3/8” bolts (1” washer max) fastening inner/outer hood sheet metal together on hood itself.
If bolted shut: A minimum of four bolts 5/8” diameter must be used. A maximum of eight bolts, not to exceed 1” diameter is allowed. The factory hood hinges do not count as a hood hold down. Only the front two bolts may go down through the hood to the frame. The other six bolts, if used, must be sheet metal to sheet metal only. No bolts to be placed in front of radiator as protection. Washers for the topside of the hood may not exceed 5” square and 1/4” thick. The hood “washers” may be welded to the top of the hood. 5” square “washers” may also be welded to the inner fenders at the corners (fender to radiator support and fender to the fire wall or cowl) below the hood. Bolts may then be welded to these “washers” to hold the hood. 1”1/2 Angle Iron , no more than 6” long welded to hood & fender/bolted together may be counted same as other hood bolts.
If chained shut: A minimum of four spots of 1/4” chain must be used. A maximum of up to eight spots of 3/8” chain may be used. The use of 5” square “washers” is allowed as above.
12. Radiators must be in the stock location and may use factory type mounts. Ratchet straps, wire, and chain may be used to hold in radiator. Aluminum radiators may be used. Electric fans may be used. Air conditioner condensers may be welded directly to the radiator support, may use filler rod or plates to do so, not to exceed 6’’ long by 2” wide on each side only, ( not all the way across). No guards in front or behind radiator.
13. Fenders may be cut for a larger wheel well opening. Fenders may be bolted back together (with no welding) with up to six 3/8” bolts (1” diameter washers maximum) per wheel well opening. Excess front fender in front of radiator support may be cut, folded over, and bolted (not welded) back together. Four 3/8” bolts (1” washers) allowed per fender.
14. Doors must be chained, wired, bolted, or welded (exterior seams only) shut. Weld full seams allowed on door seams. Chain must be a minimum of 1/4”, wire must be a minimum of two loops, bolts must be a minimum of 3/8”, and weld must be 4” on a minimum of two spots per door. No chain, wire, or bolts allowed to go to or around frame. 4” wide by 3/16” strap maximum allowed to weld over door seams. Other exterior body seams may be welded. 2” wide by 1/8” strap maximum allowed.
15. Trunk lids and station wagon tail gates may be chained, wired, bolted, or welded shut the same as the doors. Any two methods allowed to fasten the trunk lid or tailgate. No method may go to or around the frame or rear bumper. Trunk lid may be “tucked” down inside the trunk compartment. Trunk lid may not be welded to the trunk floor pan. Two bolts (maximum 1” diameter) are allowed in the trunk from the bottom of the trunk pan up through the top of the trunk lid. These two bolts are allowed to go down through the frame, but may not be welded to the frame. The use of 5” “washers” is allowed the same as the hood. These two bolts must be cut flush with the top of the nuts. Pre-forming or pre-bending the body sheet metal is allowed. It may be cut to shape it, but not allowed to re-weld or bolt back together (except for the front edge of the front fenders, wheel well radius, and hood holes). . Station wagon tail gates may be lowered, then chained, wired, bolted, or welded shut. No more than, Ten, 3/8 bolts ( 1” washer max) may be used to bolt inner/outer trunk lid sheet metal together.
If back bumper has been removed, Station Wagon gates maybe lowered & bolted or welded to back bumper brackets or shocks.
16. Tops of doors, and areas that had moving windows, may be pinched together and welded. Weld bead only, no plates or other material allowed. Inspectors must be able to see down into the body. Interior rules:
1. No re-welding of interior body seams. No added bolts or screws. The re-welding of the doorpost or pillar, to the floor sheet metal, allowed on both the driver side and passenger side.
2. The use of fabricated parts such as steering columns, fuel pedals, brake pedals, transmission shifters, seat brackets, battery boxes, fuel tanks, and coolers allowed. Transmission and engine oil coolers are allowed. Two batteries are allowed.
3. Seat, battery, fuel tank, and cooler brackets must be welded to, or bolted to, the floor sheet metal. No chain, wire, or rubber type straps allowed to fasten these items. The seat, battery, fuel tank, and coolers must be secure. No bracket may be attached to, or come in contact with, the seat bar, dash bar, or door bars. Steering column brackets and seat brackets may come in contact with, and be attached to, these bars. No bracket may extend in front of the dash bar (other than steering column bracket). No bracket may extend past the rear of the seat bar. Brackets in the front seat area must be welded to, or bolted to, floor sheet metal only. Brackets in the front seat area may be attached to the factory body mount washers. Brackets in the back seat area must be welded to, or bolted to, the floor sheet metal only. Bolts in the back seat area may not go through, or around, the frame or sub-frame. Brackets in the back seat area must not be attached to, or come in contact with, the seat bar or door bars. Brackets for the front seat area, and brackets for the back seat area, must be completely separate..You are allowed a gas tank protector, no wider than 24 inches, must be at least 1” away from rear tray package/ backseat sheet metal. May NOT run straight back to frame humps, must angle in from back seat pipe. IT MAY RUN STRAIGHT BACK, BUT ONLY IN THE CENTER OF THE CAR, and must be 4” off the floor. May not be connected to gas tank and must be free floating.
4. Roll bars or “halo” bars, above the rear seat bar, must extend vertically, not angle back.
5. One post or pillar is allowed in the rear window area. 2” x 2” square, or 2” round maximum size allowed. This post or pillar must mount to the back edge of the roof and extend down to the front edge of the trunk lid. One 5” x 5” x ¼” maximum size plate allowed at the top and one plate allowed at the bottom. This post or pillar with plates, must be mounted to sheet metal only
6. Remove or loosely fasten rear “decking” in station wagons. It may be bolted, wired, or chained, but not tightly. No method may go to, or around, frame or sub-frame. Must be sheet metal to sheet metal only. “Decking” may not be welded. A 12” inspection hole in “decking” or lower floor sheet metal is required.
Suspension Rules:
WATTS-LINK CONVERSIONS:
YOU MAY CONVERT A WATTS LINK FORD TO A STANDARD GM REAREND IN THE FOLLOWING WAY.. USE THE TRAILING ARM BRACKETS OFF AN OLDER FORD OR METAL OF THE SAME SIZE AND THICKNESS. NO POSITIONING OF THE BRACKETS TO STRENGTHEN THE FRONT DOWNLEG OF THE REAR HUMP. YOU MAY CUT OUT THE COIL SPRING FRAME TRAY FROM AN EARLIER YEAR FORD AND WELD IT IN THE NEWER FORD, IF YOU CHOOSE TO MANUFACTURE A SYSTEM FOR THE UPPER BRACKETS PLEASE CALL AHEAD. ONE PASS ONLY, ¼” MAXIMUM. NO STRONGER THAN STOCK.
1. No leaf springs under non-leaf cars allowed. No solid suspension. Suspension must be working and have a minimum of 2” travel. No reinforcing of steering or suspension components other than what is allowed in these rules.
2. The interchange of front spindles, rotors, and upper “A” frames allowed. The parts must not be reinforced or altered and must be considered OEM car, not truck or SUV. Only a minimum of fabrication is allowed to do this. The “A” frame mounts, if needed, may not strengthen the frame, or be stronger than what is considered stock.
3. Rear axle assemblies may be interchanged, .. Rear axle housing braces are allowed. Mounts may be fabricated. Mounts may be a maximum length of 12”. Rear end bracing must be 6” away from frame (fresh cars)
4. No more than 7 leaf springs per side, no more than 3/8” thick leaves. The leaves must stagger down to bottom spring with a minimum of 1” stagger. The leaf directly under the main may not extend longer, or past, the main leaf eyebolt. No double wrapping of the main leaf. No leaf may be as long as the main leaf. No leaf springs on top of, or above, the main leaf allowed. 4 leaf spring clamps allowed per leaf spring pack, 8 total per car. Maximum size of clamps is 2” wide by 5” long by 1/2” thick.
5. Factory rear control arms on coil sprung cars may be lengthened or shortened. Only a minimum of reinforcing is allowed. “Boxing” of rear control arms, allowed. Double coil springs are allowed, (one coil spring turned inside a second coil spring). Coil springs may be wired, welded, or cabled in on top or bottom. Only one place is allowed to hold coil spring in. Air shock lines must be cut.
6. Front and rear factory leaf spring brackets, on Mopar cars, may be welded to the floor brackets, and or sub-frame brackets.
7. Allowed two chains or cable or wire around axle housing to frame or body. May not be welded or bolted to frame or body, just looped around it.
8. Shocks are allowed and must have 2” minimum travel. One strand (not loop) of chain (no wire or cable) 3/8” size maximum allowed to replace the shock. This strand of chain must be mounted at the same factory location, both top and bottom, as the factory shock. You may use either one shock, or one strand of chain, not both. The chain links must not be welded. The chain must flex.
9. Wire (four loops maximum) or cable (one loop of 3/8”) from driver side frame rail, across to the passenger side frame rail, is allowed. If used, it must be located above and behind the rear axle housing. No welding.
10. Altered, replaced, and or fabricated steering columns allowed.
Tire rules:. We do not want flats.
1No bigger than 15” rims, no spit rims, no studded tires on driven wheels. No rim reinforcements. No spikes, paddles, or other material to be welded inside or to the rim. No liquid filled tires allowed. Rim screws allowed. Implement tread, forklift type, foam filled, urethane, solid, and double tires are allowed. Valve stem protection is allowed. Any ply allowed.
Bumper Rules:
1. Any car bumper allowed on any car. Bumpers may be cut. Bumpers may be chained, bolted, or welded on. Bumpers may be welded to the brackets, and brackets may be welded to the frame. Bumpers may be welded to the frame. Brackets may be cut. Use only factory brackets, no extra steel or other material allowed as a bumper bracket. You may use either the factory brackets that came with the bumper, or you may use the factory brackets that came with the car, not both. Bumpers may have seams welded. You may reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper. The bumper must start stock and may have metal put inside for reinforcement. Bumper chrome may be smashed down and welded to inner bumper support. Bumpers may be mounted upside down. Rear car bumpers allowed on the front. Front car bumpers allowed on the rear. Rear bumper brackets may only be used on the rear of the car. Front bumper brackets may only be used on the front of the car. No bracket may extend rearward more than 14 inches from the rear of bumper. This is measured at the factory mount surface. All brackets must make contact with the bumper. YOU MAY USE 1 4" WIDE X 3/8TH STRAP FROM FRONT BUMPER TO THE TOP FAREST POINT FORWARD ON UPPER A-ARMS INSTEAD OF BUMPER SHOCKS AND BUMPER BRACKETS IF YOU CHOOSE BUT ONLY 1 OR THE OTHER
3. Rear Bumpers, 4 chains or 4, 2” wide straps from rear bumper to car body allowed. No more than 5” of weld on straps on body and 5” of weld on bumpers. Bumpers must be smooth at the edges.
4.Front Bumpers..allowed two straps not to exceed 2” wide x ¼ thick allowed from radiator support / hood hold down bolts down to front bumper with no more than 5” of strap welded to bumper & no more than 3” of weld to core support. OR #9 wire in two locations (two loops or 4 strands each) may be used from front hood hold-down/bolts to front bumper.
Number 9” wire, You are allowed 2 spots no more than four wires thick from roof to frame. You may also have one per window opening sheet metal to sheet metal no more than four wires thick.
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Post by PAY UP $ SUCKER! on Jun 5, 2014 23:46:43 GMT -5
Hobo / beginner class any yr of car allowed (no imps, hearse, ambulance, trucks vans mini vans or compact type cars NO 03 and newer fords or frames 1. car needs to remain as close as stock as possible
2. NO carb/DP's, NO engine cradles, NO slider drive shafts, cable type gas pedals ok.
3. engine swaps ok but can only weld lower mounts in to do a clean conversion (no added metal!) trans must be stock for the auto its in (no manual trans unless the type of car came with one factory)
4.NO truck rear ends, must be a stock car rear end (gears are fine, after market axles NOT allowed)
5. bumper swaps allowed but must be an automotive car bumper can have 8" of weld per side to attach bumpers on
6. ONLY welding allowed is drivers door and cage.
7.may use a trans mounted shifter.
8. may use up to 1" core support bolts thru the hood but only thru the top of the frame.
9. CAR MUST HAVE A DRIVERS DOOR BAR
10. a dash bar and seat bar is recomended but not required
11.Car must be fully stripped of all flammable material. Factory seats and factory dash are allowed. All glass, chrome, door handles, and any unsafe items must be removed from the inside and outside of the cars. All plastic, stainless and pot metal trim, fiberglass, and rubber must be removed from the outside of the car. Car floor, trunks, and inside of doors must be swept of glass, debris, and must be clean. Factory fuel tank(s) must be removed. Unused factory fuel lines must be blown free of gas. Removing unused fuel lines recommended. Factory fuel tank may not be re-used
12.Battery must be re-located inside of passenger compartment. The battery must be in a solid container and must be securely fastened and covered.
13.No steel gas “cans” or plastic gas “jugs” allowed. A steel boat tank is recommended, however any metal tank deemed safe by the officials is acceptable. Any plastic or urethane “fuel cell” must be in a solid metal container and must be covered with metal. The fuel tank must be securely fastened inside the passenger compartment. Fuel cell cannot exceed 12”x12”x12” or 7 gallons. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat use to be. No other source of gas inside the car at all.Official’s decision is final.
14.Cars must have some type of working brakes.
15.Oil coolers, engine and transmission, are allowed. IF air coolers (fans) are used, a shield must be located between the cooler and the driver. High-pressure hydraulic lines and fittings are recommended. No gas hose is allowed. It must be compatible with transmission oil. If oil hose is used, minimum of two hose clamps per fitting. Non high-pressure oil hose must be covered. Engine cooler hose and fittings must be high pressure
16.Electric fuel pumps are allowed, must have high pressure fuel line, All fuel hose must be covered. And be safe!
17. No wheel weights or balance weights allowed on wheel rims.
18. Radiator coolant over flow tubes must point straight down.
19. bumper shocks can be collapsed and bumper chained
20. ALL DOORS AND TRUNK / HOOD MUST BE CHAINED OR #9 WIRED SHUT. max of 2 loops chain 4 strand wire.
21. NO WELDING ON FRAMES AT ALL!!!!!! IF YOU DO YOU WILL NOT RUN!!! You will be given the chance to run with the oldiron/80's weld class.
22.MUST HAVE HALO BAR/ roll over bar allowed to be welded to floor pan only and bolted to roof top. no more than 6" behind drivers seat. 23 must have 2 bars welded or bolted in the windshield area to keep hood from cutting your head off!
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Post by PAY UP $ SUCKER! on Jun 27, 2014 14:02:34 GMT -5
Compact Rules
1. ALL RULES WILL BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NOT RUN.
2. Any compact car with the following specs; 105” Maximum Wheel Base for Rear Wheel Drive, 108” Maximum Wheel Base for Front Wheel Drive. Four Wheel drive cars must remove front drive shaft.
3. Drivers must be 18 years of age. Ages 16-17 must have a NOTARIZED permission slip and a valid driver’s license.
4. The person that signs in as the driver – must be the driver for the event.
5. Driver must wear a seat belt, helmet, FIRE SUIT JACKET (no more exceptions to the fire jacket rule).
6. All Drivers and Crew Members must attend the drivers meeting.
7. No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle. This will be the quickest way to be DISQUALIFIED.
8. Any open door or fire will cause disqualification, for that heat, of that particular car not the team.
9. You are given 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that particular car will be disqualified, not the team. You are only given 1 minute in total, not 1 minute to get started and 1 minute to hit.
10.
11. Cars will be re-inspected before any prize money is paid out.
12.
13. Any complaints that a driver has about another car prior to the start of the first heat will need to be addressed in the drivers meeting in specifics. If nothing is said, we don’t want to hear about it after the show.
14. Any questions, give us a call: We can’t stress enough to call first.
15. Judges decisions are FINAL!!!
Small Car wheelbase is 108" maximum no full frame CARS, compact trucks under 108” allowed, 6 cylinder maximum
CAGES & DOOR BARS:
- You may use channel or tubing up to 6" for the door bars. Total length is not to exceed 60". This bar may not be more than 18" behind the center post on 4 door cars and 10" behind the door seam on 2 door cars - no exceptions.
- Dash bar and seat bars may not exceed 5" diameter. Seat bar must be no further than 10" behind the seat. All bars must be straight pieces no contoured pieces.
- Sedans only, are allowed a gas tank protector, 24” X 6” inches, centered in the back seat area. There must be a 1” space between the back bar and all sheet metal, may not be attached to anything other than back seat bar. All interior sheet metal must remain in stock position. Do not pound!
- You may add a diagonal bar behind the driver’s seat and directly below the seat bar running from the seat bar to the floor sheet metal.
- Back bar may form an “X”
- You may add 4 VERTICAL down bars, welded to your cage and to the floor sheet metal or frame. These bars may not attach to or conceal a body mount.
- No kickers, angled or otherwise. NO cage components may be welded to the frame other than down bars and halo.
- All horizontal cage components must be at least 4" off the floor of the car, including gas tank protector, measured at the body bolt elevation.
- All cage components must be in the interior of the car, not inside the door structure with the exception of
the driver’s side. This door bar MAY be inside the door structure to allow more room for driver’s safety.
HALO OR ROLLOVER BARS:
- You may add a halo bar to the cage components listed above. It may not exceed 5" in diameter.
- On a 4-door post car, this bar must attach to the seat bar, no exceptions.
- On a 2-door or 4-door non-post car, this bar may be attached to the floor sheet metal or frame.
- Halo bars may NOT be angled toward the rear of the car. They must be vertical.
-You may bolt or weld the halo bar to the roof sheet metal in 4 places.
SKID PLATES:
- Skid plates are allowed. They must be separate plated for the engine and the transmission.
- NO full-length skid plates.
- NO bolting or welding the skid plated to the frame.
TRUNK LIDS:
- Trunk lids must remain 50% in the stock location. The trunk lid must remain on hinges.
- You may fasten your trunk lid in ALL OF THE FOLLOWING 3 ways:
- You may weld solid with 3" x 1/4" strap max.
- AND -You may weld 4 pieces of 5/8" all thread vertically to the rear frame rails and run them thru the trunk lid. No double nutting. You may use a 5" washer on the trunk lid bolts, plates may not be welded and must be free-floating.
- AND -You may place up to 16 - 3/8" bolts in the drip rail area of the trunk lid.
- There must be 12" minimum hole in the trunk lid for inspection purposes.
- Relocation of the speaker deck is not allowed it must remain in the stock location, no relocation of any sheet metal or components. Your trunk lid may be V’ed in the center.
- No fully wedged cars, rear quarters must remain vertical.
HOODS:
- Hoods may be bolted, wired or chained shut ONLY.
- You may use 8 bolts to hold the hood, may be 1" all thread max.
- The 2 front bolts may go thru the frame or welded vertically to the frame. The other 4 must be sheet metal to sheet metal.
- If you use chain or wire, you may weld up to 5" washers to the hood. If bolting, the 5" washers must be free floating.
-You may install up to 12 - 3/8" bolts or self tapping screws per hood cutout. Maximum of 3 cut outs. Maximum washer size is 1" diameter. Cutouts may be for header clearance, air breather clearance or radiator fill opening only. These bolts may NOT be installed in any area other than the immediate perimeter of the cut out.
- NO welding of cut outs is allowed.
- You must have a minimum 10" hole in the hood for fire protection.
- Hoods must be open at inspection time.
DOORS:
- Doors may be welded solid, outside only, 3" x 1/4" strap maximum.
-You may smash the inner and outer skin together and weld them solid, NO added metal. This includes wagon tailgates
- If you do not weld your doors you must chain or #9 wire them closed in at least 2 spots. You may NOT bolt your doors shut.
- Drivers door may have window netting for driver’s safety. NO other windows may have netting.
- You may weld a plate Maximum 6" x 1/4" across the front doors for protection, not to exceed 6" beyond the front door seams. NO GRADER BLADES. These plates must be in the center of the door, run horizontally.
- Wagon tail gates may be welded, 5 on 5 off, not solid, **OR** you may bolt the tailgate. 4 bolts, 4 nuts, 3/4” max **OR** you may weld 5” pieces of angle to the tailgate and quarters and use 3/4 “ max bolts.- pick 1 not all 3.
- Compact trucks may weld the cab to the bed on both sides the same as a door or trunk seam.
WINDOWS:
- You must have a piece of rebar/all thread/chain(3/8 max),#9 wire or 2”X1/4” straps running from the roof to the cowl in the windshield area for drivers protection, up to 2 pieces max. This may not be designed as reinforcement to the car and must be space at least 12 inches apart on the bottom, unless forming a “V” from A-pillar to A-pillar and no cross connections. No component may be welded within 6 inches of the DP.
- 2 rear window bars are allowed from roof sheet metal (not halo) to the trunk lid within 8” of the front trunk seam. 2” max diameter or 2”x2”
- You may use 2 loops, 4 strands of #9 wire total in each window opening. This wire may go to or around the frame.
- Wagons may not use wire in any window opening beyond the rear passenger door window opening.
OTHER:
- Body creasing, enhancing of existing body lines and addition of body lines is allowed to the sides of the car only.
- No doubling of body panels allowed, no added metal allowed
- Quarter panels must remain vertical.
- NO SEAM WELDING other than what is stated in these rules.
- Rewelding of body seam from the front of the a-arms forward only is allowed.
- Washers for #9 wire may be welded to the roof sheet metal. They may be a maximum of 1 ½" diameter. No washers may be welded for future wire installation.
- Holes may be cut in the floor & firewall to accommodate the shifter, fuel lines, and transmission lines.
- You may cut a hole in the firewall to accommodate the engine, within reason.
- You may have up to 8 - 3/8" bolts with 1¼” washers to bolt fenders together in each wheel opening.
- Excess front fender in front of radiator support may be cut off or folded over and bolted or welded back together. Four 3/8” bolts (1¼” washers) allowed per fender for this, no added metal.
- Sway bars may not be welded to frame, but brackets can.
ENGINES:
- no v8's but it must be mounted within 5" of the original motor.
- You may chain the motor, 2 chains per side, 3/8 max.
- You may attached a strap on all four corners of engine going down to the frame, this strap may be welded directly to the top or side of the frame only, not to exceed 3/8” thick by 3” wide strap. The straps on the front of the motor cannot extend on the frame any more than 3” past the front of the head and cannot extend backwards at all. The straps on the rear of the motor cannot extend back on the frame any more than 3” past the back of the head and cannot extend forward at all. These straps can be connected from front to back, but the connection piece must be at least 3” from the frame and not to interfere with the A-Arm. Motor cradles are ok and can be welded to the cross member.
- You may weld in additional supports to the engine cradle area, but they may not be attached to the frame rails at any point. Only allowed for holding engine in place.
- No engine oil coolers are allowed.
- You must have an air cleaner over the carburetor at all times.
- No starting fluid is allowed.
- Allowed to secure K member in the following ways:
Remove pucks and bolt tight to frame, stock size bolts only.
Leave pucks in between and weld 4 - 3 inch welds, total (not per side) of 12 inches only with wire only NO filler.
DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTORS/CRADLES:
- If you run a DP do not mount your dash bar closer than 5 inches to the rear most point of the firewall fresh, YOU WILL NOT RUN.
-Distributor protectors allowed, must be attached to engine or transmission only, back side must be no wider than 12 inches, must not contact cage before the event. It may not be welded, bolted or connected to body, hood or frame.
- Aftermarket Distributor protectors, cradles and pulley protectors are allowed. These must be separate items and may not all be connected for a complete engine protector system. If you use a front plate it may not be gusseted to header flanges or other components in any manner with the exception to 4 cylinder motors. No “extreme” engine systems.
-You may beat flat the engine side of the firewall only, do not weld or bolt firewall. Do not re-enforce the firewall in any way.
TRANSMISSIONS:
- Transmissions must be of passenger car or truck origin, transmission coolers may be used, but they must be secured in such a way to prevent injury.
- Metal or braided lines must be used. No fuel or low-pressure lines may be used.
- Coolers must be secured in a container in the passenger compartment of the car.
- You can weld 2” angle iron no thicker than ¼”, and no longer than 6” to the side of the frame to support the cross member. If you pre-bend your frame, you may not use this angle iron to reinforce your bend.
REAR ENDS:
- You may use any type of rear end (Ford / Mopar / GM / Hybrid) but 5 lug max.
- You may tilt the rear end by lengthening or shortening the trailing arms. Trailing arms must be of passenger car origin and must operate. Trailing arms may be reinforced but must be OEM origin.
- Rear end braces are allowed, but they may serve no purpose other than to strengthen the rear end housing. They may not extend from the rear end further than 6” and may not be higher than the top of the housing.
BODY BOLTS:
- All body bolts may be replaced with up to 1" bolts, maximum 8" length.
- Core support bolts may be 1" diameter. Core support bolts may go thru the hood and count as 2 of your 8 hood bolts.
- You may use pipe up to 1 ½" OD to run the core support all thread thru. These pipes may be welded to the core support using 3/16" strapping, 2 -5" pieces max per pipe.
- Washers must be free floating inside the car and inside the frame on the bottom side.
- Do NOT weld the body washers to the floor. Maximum washer size is 6" x 1/4".
- Space must be maintained between the body and the frame; Minimum 3/4".
- You may add 2 body mounts in the position of your choice. They must be painted for easy viewing.
- If you decide to bolt your coil springs in place thru the frame and the rear package tray, these will count as your added mounts.
- Compact trucks may run one “washer” for both cab body mounts on the topside (inside the cab only). This strap washer may not be wider than 4” and may not extend more than 4” past the body mount hole in the front and 4” in the back. You may only have two of these washers inside the cab; one on the driver’s side and one on the passenger side.
RADIATORS:
- Radiator must be in the stock position in front of the motor.
- OEM style radiators only, no homemade tube construction radiators.
- You may not add cooling capacity. No supplemental cooling devices allowed.
-Radiators may be mounted in any of the following ways:
Ratchet straps
2-3/8” all thread front and back of radiator
Welding 2-1/8” X 3” to core support bolts
NO EXPANDING FOAM or you will not run
FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEMS: - No plastic gas tanks allowed. Marine tank or metal fuel tank only.
- 5+ gallon tank recommended. No coffins, be reasonable!
- Original gas tanks must be removed from the car, unless it is in front of the rear axle.
- You must have the gas tank securely mounted behind the driver’s seat and it must be covered.
- Fuel lines must run inside the car, not under the car along the frame.
- Fuel lines must be secured to the floor and kept from pinch points
- Automotive pump gas only, NO ALCOHOL.
- Electric fuel pumps are allowed. They must be covered and have an on/off switch near the steering wheel and clearly marked in large letters.
- All lines must be double clamped.
TIRES & BRAKES:
- No tires taller than 30". 4 wheels max per car. No duals.
- No split rims or studded tires, you may use aftermarket center with various bolt patterns, 8 inch max, 14 inch for mobile home tires.
- Valve stem protectors allowed, wheel weights must be removed.
- Doubled or foam filled tires OK - we don’t like flats!
- All cars must be able to demonstrate the ability to stop at any time. If your brakes do not work, you will not compete.
- You may not change tires after inspection; ride height will be measured with your competition tires only.
BATTERIES:
- A maximum of 2 - 12 volt batteries may be used.
- They must be secured inside the car in front of the passenger seat and covered.
- Rusted out holes in your floor sheet metal may be patched where components will be mounted or for drivers safety, sheet metal only. No other sheet metal patching is allowed unless it is a safety issue. You may not patch clean and solid floors.
- When patching you may NOT weld, you may bolt, self tap or pop rivet all patches. No patch may be attached to any vertical sheet metal (firewall); all must be patched or mounted in the horizontal floorboards only. Do not mount anything within 6 inches of any body bolt.
FRAMES:
- The only frame welding allowed is from the front of the a-arms forward, no more than a ½" wide bead.
- Pinch welds may be beat over and welded a-arms forward, no more than a ½” wide bead.
- The bumper strap to frame welding is covered in the bumper section.
- NO other frame welding is allowed. No plating, stuffing, heat treating or foam filling of frames is allowed. Do NOT paint or undercoat your frame or you will not even be inspected and loaded.
- You may weld your motor mounts to the engine cradle.
- Rear frame rails may not be shortened. No dowel pinning of the frame is allowed.
- You may notch the frame for minimal pre-bending, but do NOT weld the cut.
- You may run a chain or cable or #9 wire from rear rail to rear rail behind the rearend. 3/8" chain maximum.
- You may chain or wire your rearend to the frame. You may NOT use strapping of any kind for this. Wire or chain only. 3/8" chain maximum. Chain must go around frame on full frame cars, do not bolt through the frame creating a frame pin. Uni-body cars may use 1 bolt per side thru the frame for this.
- You may not weld the chain links to create a bar effect.
- There is no frame shaping allowed at all. Do not sharpen the corners of the frame or square them in any way. The frame humps above the rear tires may be beat in for a distance of 8” in each direction from the center of the hump. That is the ONLY frame shaping that is allowed.
- Used or Pre-ran cars may fix ripped, torn, bent, or twisted frames.
- Used cars will be allowed a total of 16” x 4” x ¼” repair plate per frame rail divided however you want.
BUMPERS, BUMPER BRACKETS:
-You must start with a stock/replacement bumper but you are allowed to re-enforce inside or the backside between the shock mounts. Bumper re-enforcement may not be done in any way to stop frame bending. Bumper must appear stock from the stands, no spike or protruding items.
- Bumpers are interchangeable for all cars.
- You may weld the bumper seams, the shocks and weld any OEM car brackets to the frame. *OR* you may weld 16” of 3/8” X 3” flat plate from the bumper back if you decide not to run bumper brackets. Must have 2-1” holes cut in plate at third way points to prove thickness.
- If you choose not to use brackets, you may weld your bumper directly to the frame.
- You may not weld the bumper to the body at any time.
- Bumpers may be cut to keep them out of the tires.
- Bumpers may be flipped (upside down).
- Compression bumper shocks may be drained, slid back into the shock and welded fully.
- All bumper brackets and shock components must be OEM automotive materials.
- REAR bumper brackets may not be welded more than 8” onto the frame rail.
- You may run 4 loops of #9 wire from the radiator support to the bumper in 2 locations *OR* You may weld 2-3/8” max chain to bumper and bolt to the car A-arms forward to hold bumper on. If these act to strengthen the car in any way, they will be removed.
- You may weld a 2" x 8" x 1/4" strap from the bumper to the frame to help keep the bumper on the car. This must remain in one piece. It cannot be angled to the corner of the bumper to form a kicker. 8" is the maximum length.
SUSPENSION, SPRINGS:
- Coil to leaf conversions allowed.
- You may change coil springs.
- You may weld, bolt or chain down your a-arms. You are allowed either two 1” straps, **OR** one chain **OR** one bolt per side.
-A-arms may be reinforced.
- You may reinforce your tie rods, but you must use the OEM tie rod ends.
- Pipe Tie Rods are allowed but you must use the stock ends, no aftermarket hiems.
- Steering wheel to Steering gearbox may be modified.
- After market steering columns allowed.
- Air shock lines must be cut.
LEAF SPRINGS:
- 7 leaf maximum, 3/8" maximum thickness, 2 ½" wide maximum.
- Stagger - 2" long side (rear of axle), 2” short side (front of axle).
- 6 clamps per spring, minimum of 2 in front of the axle.
- Clamp material 1/4" thick, 2" wide, 2 – 3/8" bolts per clamp.
- U-bolts – ½” maximum, stock mounting plates must be used.
- Shackles and perches may be welded or bolted to the frame.
- No homemade or oversized u-bolts will be allowed.
- No welding on the spring pack.
- No flat sprung cars - leaf pack must have a minimum of 2" of arch.
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