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Post by justin66756 on Feb 18, 2015 14:01:05 GMT -5
Erie Demolition derby is back this yr! Derby is set for Sat June 13 at 6pm at the Erie Ks Fairgrounds.. Wanted to get it out there so you could start planning.. We are looking at limted weld fullsize and compacts.. As of right now we have a guarenteed $4000 purse for fullsize and $1000 for compacts. As sponser money comes in that could grow.. First place fullsize will pay at least a minimum of $2000 and compacts first place $1000. Rules and final payouts are being finalized and will be out soon! When they are finalized they will be posted on here!!
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Post by justin66756 on Mar 8, 2015 21:05:37 GMT -5
Erie Ks Demolition Derby Sat June 13 6pm Erie Fairgrounds
Inspections 2-5:00pm NO LATE ARRIVALS!
Payouts listed are GUARANTEED!! As more sponsors donate the prize money could go up.. Full-size First $2000 Second $1000 Third $500 Fourth $250 $50 will be paid out to the top 2 placing cars in the heats.
Compacts First $1000
Here you go!!!!! You guys have asked for it so we got it. Now come earn it!!!!! $1000 has been donated for mad dog driver of the night!!!!!!
Power Wheels Derby Kids 8 and under (all will receive prize)
Car/Driver entry $40 includes 1 pit pass Pit passes $20 General Admission $10
NOBODY under age of 14 allowed in pits!!
ALL RULES WILL BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NOT RUN!!! If a car does not pass inspection or the driver cant or wont fix car within time allowed to pass inspection driver will NOT receive a refund of entry.. Bring your car built to the rules! ***THE FIRST CAR/DRIVER TO PASS INSPECTION THE FIRST TIME THROUGH WILL GET HIS/HER ENTRY FEE REFUNDED!!! IF ANYTHING IS FOUND IN CAR,FRAME/BODY OR HIDDEN THAT IS NOT ALLOWED IN THESE RULES YOU WILL NOT BE ALLOWED TO FIX IT AND WILL BE LOADED AND LOSE YOUR ENTRY FEE!!! DON’T JUST ASSUME WE WILL ALLOW YOU TO RUN! This derby is early enough in the season and we have worked to get you these rules out soon enough for you to build a car to the rules.. Don’t bring your plated up cars that “you just want to finish off” to this show unless they are plated to OUR rules…There are other shows that you can take your “rolling dumpster” to.
Any American made car will be allowed with the exception of the following… NO 2003 or newer Ford Motor Company frames(ford,merc,Lincoln), NO 1973 or older Chrysler imperials or imperial sub frames, 4x4’s, ambulance,hearses,trucks,limos,anything classified as a truck, etc..
Drivers must be 16 yrs of age and have valid drivers license. 16-18 yrs of age must have a signed parents release form..
The person that signs in as the driver of that car must run that car.. NO changing drivers of cars or letting someone else drive. Car and driver qualify together.
The driver must wear seat belt and helmet. Fire suite and eye protection is recommended.
All drivers must attend the drivers meeting.
No hot roding in the pits, keep it at an idle. This will be the quickest way to be DISQUALIFIED or escorted off the property..
Any open door or gas fire will cause disqualification, for that heat or feature.
You are given 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that particular car will be disqualified.
No drivers are allowed alcohol-period! If you are wearing a drivers band and drinking any form of Alcohol-YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED. Drivers keep your pit crew under control, fairboard has the right to have anyone at anytime escorted off the premises and could result in a disqualification of the driver..
There is a $250.00 protest fee, and you must be a driver in the main event to protest another driver’s car. Driver must have cash in hand directly after the feature in order to protest. If the car is found to be illegal the car and driver will be escorted off the grounds and will not receive any prize money and the prize money will move down to the next placing drivers.
Any complaints that a deliver has about another car prior to the start of the first heat will need to be addressed in the drivers meeting in specifics. If nothing is said, we don’t want to hear about it after the show. Any questions, give me a call: Justin 417-693-6182. If these rules or a phone call to me does not say you can do it THEN DON”T. I can’t stress enough to call first if you have any doubts or questions. Just remember there are always gray areas. If you push the gray areas, you may have to cut or fix it.
Judges decisions are FINAL!!
Car Preparation
**No fresh paint or under coating on frame**
All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
Tires no bigger than 16 inch. No split rims, No bead locks, no rim or bead protectors and No steel studded tires. Foam filled or doubled tires are ok-we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims. **Rims must be a stock production car or light truck rim. Small weld in centers allowed. 8” diameter max. **No full weld in centers!
Use motor and tranny of choice, motor must be in stock location. **READ RULES BELOW IN THE “IF YOUR RUNNING PROTECTORS” SECTION AS HOW TO MOUNT ENGINE AND TRANS!! Same rules will apply to all cars whether running protectors or not..
You must run the stock transmission cross member in the stock location. You can weld a 2” angle iron no thicker than 3/16”, NO LONGER than 6” only to the inside of the frame to support the cross member. The transmission cross member is the only method by which the transmission may be tied in. **NO HOMEMADE CROSS MEMBERS and no loading stock cross member!!
Use rear end of choice, but must be stock OEM 5 lug car or ½ ton truck. You can tilt rear end if you wish by Shortening or lengthening of stock oem car origin control arms is allowed but do not reinforce. Control arms must work w/ factory bushings. If you cut do not overlap more than 1” to re-weld, no added metal.. Welded or posi-track highly recommended. Braced rear ends are welcome but must only be used to strengthen rear end housing only! Braces cannot extend further back than 6’’ from back of housing and cannot be any taller than top of factory housing. NO frame supports or pushers! Judge will have final call on this if you have something more on rear end than what is designed to strengthen housing! Pinion brakes are ok. NO AXLE PROTECTORS!! Have them off before you show up!
Slider driveshafts are welcome!!
All cars must have working brakes.
A-arms, ball joints, and tie-rod ends must remain stock for the model of car you run. You can retube or reinforce tie rods but must use factory tie rod ends for the make and model of car your running. Steering wheel to steering box may be altered. If you have to weld anything to the frame to support steering rod it can only be welded on top side of frame and be no more than 2’’ of weld on frame.
All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell, and it must be properly secured and covered. Only metal tanks may be used. No tanks larger than 24’’ wide or long. NO PLASTIC TANKS.. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly in side of car only, DO NOT mount under car. Double clamp all full lines recommended. Keep away from exhaust or sharp pinch points. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat use to be. NO ALCOHOL. Tank protectors will be allowed. Only attach to the backseat bar and rear seat area sheet metal. No more than 24” wide at any point. Must run horizontal to the floor pan directly straight off back seat bar to rear seat sheet metal…Gas tank can only form a square around the tank, do not weld any down bars or such from it.. If you have questions call!
Transmission coolers are allowed, but must be safe and properly secured.
Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and covered. Max of 2 batteries.
You must have a number in bright colors on each front door and must have a 15” x 15” sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car.
NO welding will be allowed on any party of the body or frame unless specified in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction you will not run- IF YOUR CAR IS FOUND TO HAVE WELD ANYWHERE OTHER THAN SPECIFIED AND IT CANNOT BE FIXED PROPERLY WITH A TORCH within the time allowed you will not run!
All doors may be welded or chained shut. Driver’s door may be welded solid inside and outside, no more than 6’’ past front or back of drivers door.. If chained must use minimum of 2 chains per door, max of six chains per side for a four-door car. Four chains per side for a two-door car. No chains longer than 3’. Do not wrap chains around cage. IF welded, strap no larger than 3” x 1/8” flat strap may be used.
**ATTENTION HERE** ** Weld 5” leave 5” and only outside of doors may be welded. No other filler! Top of door skins may be welded together without any filler material. This includes wagon gates.. IF your car is welded solid have it cut 5’’ on 5’’ off BEFORE you show up! ** Make sure you reinforce the drivers door well. This is a derby it could get hit. We all know in this sport it will happen so expect it, we will not stop the show for minor door hits! Definitely if you use it for defensive driving! Use your door for defensive driving and you could be the one DQ’d!! NO GRADER BLADES!!!!!
For driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X but do not connect to frame. Only to sheet metal! You may also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your dash area to replace your dash. You may run a bar connecting the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front doors only. You may weld two vertical down bars from the cage to the floor pan to protect batteries and your feet. These down bars MUST remain within the inside front door seems and may only be welded to the top side of floor pan sheet metal, NOT FRAME. NO PART OF CAGE CAN BE CONNECTED TO FRAME! That means no bolting or welding it to frame of any kind!! You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the rear seat bar and/or to the floor sheet metal top side only and may be attached to roof with two 3/4” bolts max and four 5” x 5” plates max. No part of cage or roll bar can be rearward past rear seat body mount. Do not weld cage or roll bar to body mount plate or frame. Cage/ roll bar mounting must have a 5” gap to body mount plate. ROLL BAR MUST BE MOUTED VERTICAL, no laying it back towards rear of car.
Mopars are allowed to run 1” bolt with a 5” plate on both sides (frame and body) in the front most frame hole in the rear frame (rear seat area).
All cage material must be straight and not exceed 3’’x3’’square or 3’’ round. Front of cage cannot extend further forward than 6” past front inner door seam and no further back than body mount inside rear door or back seat area. Cage can ONLY be welded to sheet metal. Do not attach to frame or body mounts in any way. ONLY the Gas Tank protector can extend rearward past the rear seat body mounts…
Bumpers are interchangeable but must be a oem car bumper. No homemade bumpers! You may weld the chrome solid to the backing. *You can load bumpers but must only be done in this way…You can take apart the factory oem bumper by unbolting, load bumper as you wish and rebolt or weld it back together.. DO NOT reshape bumpers to form pointy bumpers or such! From the outside bumper MUST appear stock as bumper originated from the factory.. *Bumper brackets you can either run the factory bumper bracket that matches the bumper or one that matches the car, no exceptions! You can weld the bumper brackets to the frame and the bumpers to the brackets or bumper directly to frame. Weld them good we don’t want them falling off!! No added filler material to weld them. Don’t push your luck! Ask if you have a question on this. No homemade brackets or shocks. Only cars that originally had shocks mounted inside frame may have shocks mounted inside frame.. **Absolutely NO brackets further back than 14’’ from back of bumper, any excess will be cut off! So if you find a bracket of some sort that is longer than 14” it must be shortened! **In addition to this I will allow… One 6’’x4’’x¼’’ max plate per frame rail to help attach bumper to frame. It MUST be welded directly off back side of bumper to the inner(core support) side of frame in front and on rear of car it can be welded on the inner side OR bottom side of frame rail, if welded on bottom side it must have a 1‘’ hole in plate if it covers a body mount hole. Max 4’’ of plate can be welded to frame! If you have these plates on your car they must be welded to bumper as intended for or they will be cut off. They are to help keep bumper on not to strengthen frame.. You may also weld Two 2’’x¼’’ flat strap from bumper to core support and Two on rear bumper to trunk lid.. Max of 36’’ long. Bumper to sheet metal only and ran vertically..
Trunks and wagon gates Weld 5” on 5” off. No added metal in gutter!! Can use 2-1” all threads with 5” x 5” washers on top side of trunk lid and can go through frame with 1” washer inside frame. Chryslers can weld all thread to the side of the frame 3‘’ max on frame. All thread must be ran vertically. Cut off any excess! All trunk lids must have a 12” x 12” hole for inspection. You may bolt sheet metal back together around hole with 6- 3/8” bolts/washers. You can fold or tuck trunk lid but 50% of the trunk lid must be in factory location. Do not slide your trunk forward or back. ** NO REMOVING SPEAKER DECKS. When welding front of truck lid it must be welded to speaker deck area..
Hoods- Must be open for inspection.. must have at least a 12” square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolts and washers. A maximum of 6 per hole. If you choose to cut one large hole in your hood you may weld it or bolt it back together with 12-3/8” bolts and washers. You are allowed 6 spots to hold the hood on; minimum of 4. You may have up to 1” all-thread, only 2 may go through factory frame/core support mount hole. All others must be sheet metal to sheet metal and ran vertically. Cut off access all -thread. No plates larger than 5” x 5”. No hood bolts longer than 10”, other than core support bolts. If for some reason you can not run a hood, the fan blade must be removed or belt cut.
#9 Wire-You may have 2 places of #9 wire, your choice of location.. Sheet metal to sheet metal or sheet metal to frame.. If you go to frame it can only be at one end, other end needs to go thru sheet metal only.. You can weld a 1” washer MAX to the sheet metal to run the wire thru to prevent ripping. NO large plates at all!! And no adding washers for later use.. You can only weld on the 2 that you use if you run wire through them. 4 loops of wire twisted max!
Body mount bolts may be replaced. NO MOVING BODY MOUNT LOCATIONS including the front core support mounts! You can suck body to frame but no welding body to frame at any point. If you use spacers at body mounts they CANNOT be any more than 3‘’ diameter round pipe! Body bolts may be up to 1’’diameter and 8’’ long max all thread. Washer on bottom side MUST be inside frame 1“ max! (do not obstruct view of body mount hole or you will cut it out!) Top side of floor pan you may have 5”x5”x¼” plate only! Radiator support can be sucked down to frame without spacer. If you use spacer at core support such as in tilting fords you can only use 3” max diameter pipe directly over top of body mount hole! DO NOT WELD TO FRAME!!! Absolutely NO adding or moving any body mounts locations!! Do not add any bolts,wire,cable,weld,chain etc in any fashion from the body to frame other than stated in these rules!
You can repair floor pan rust with sheet metal only! 2” past where rust stops, do not cut out the rust! No other patching without permission!! I will not allow full plated pillar repair!! No layering/overlapping of sheet metal! If you just show up with repairs and they are more than needed don’t just expect us to allow you in w/ it. Frame rust and repair will follow up in rules…
Suspension must be stock for the car model you are running! No homemade suspension..
Rear-Leaf springs must be stock for the model you are running. 9 leaf max! Main leaf must be the top leaf in pack and other leafs following from longest to shortest with a minimum of 2” stagger from leaf to leaf. 4 leaf springs clamps per leaf pack 2”x4’’x¼” max. Coil sprung rear ends may clamp in coils springs to the rear end housing only to keep from loosing them. Coil sprung cars must use control arms for that model of car and may also shorten or lengthen control arms but do not reinforce and may only overlap and weld 1” past where you cut. 1 loop of 3/8’’ chain or cable per side of rear end is allowed from frame to rear end. NO bolting through frame to create a pin and no welding chain to frame, must go over or around frame. Do not weld chain links to create a bar affect. NO SOLID REAR SUSPENSION, must have bounce! No solid shocks or adjusters.. No leaf conversions! **WATTS LINK CONVERSIONS- Only means of doing this is… **Lower control arm brackets you can cut ones off a older ford of same model. If you make your own they must be of same thickness material as frame and can be no larger than 6’’by6’’ and mounted in the same way and location as the older crown vics were mounted.. Absolutely no moving bracket up on down leg of rear hump to strengthen the frame!! **Upper control arm brackets can be homemade, but if homemade they can only be bolted in on the package tray only not to frame rail or body and a max size of 6’’by6’’ on mounting plate. You can also cut a old package tray out of a older car of same make and model and weld in place of the original package tray.. No excessive welding! One pass of weld only where factory weld was! No welding frame seams in the process.. Judges have final say on how this is done so don’t push your luck! If anything is done out of how the factory did it you will not be allowed to run..
Front-Must use factory suspension for model of car you run.. No homemade suspension or mounts!! Do not move a-arm mounts or add any material to them! When bolting a-arms to frame only bolt it on w/ factory size of bolt and as factory would have mounted it.. NO BOLTING as to create the effect of a pin! Do not mount a-arm in any way to help strengthen frame or spring pocket! The ONLY means of welding on front suspension is to raise front end in this way… I will allow a MAX of 2- 3’’x3’’x¼’’ plates per a-arm. DO NOT WELD A-ARM SOLID!! Must be welded on a-arm at the ball joint area to the frame. Sway bars must remain stock, located in stock location and only bolted to frame/a-arm, DO NOT WELD them to frame. You can cut them out if you wish. ** If anything is done outside of what we want, you WILL cut or fix it.. Have ??’s CALL.
You can run a shifter, throttle cable ect thru floor but just keep safety in mind.. If you are running a electric fuel pump you must have it wired to main switch so that when switched off your fuel pump will shut off.
Fender wells may be cut for clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with a max of 6- 3/8” bolts/washers per fender well only! No bolting outside of the fender well..
For safety you must have 2 bars in windshield area from roof to cowl. Sheet metal to sheet metal only. Do not weld more than 6‘’ on each end.. Bars must not exceed 3’’x¼” flat strap. If you do not weld bars in you can use 2 spots of chain,wire,cable.. Do not attach to cage, roll bar, engine protector etc… If bars are used to strengthen car in any way they will be cut or fixed..
Radiators must be factory oem style for model of car you run and in factory location. Aluminum aftermarket ones are ok. NO redibarrels or custom steels tank style radiators.. NO RADIATOR GAURDS or explanded metal! You can use A/C condenser in front of radiator. You can use two 3/8” or smaller all threads or two ratchet straps around radiator to help hold it in. nothing more.. Minimal expanding foam, only to keep radiator from moving side to side.. No filling holes..
****** PAY ATTENTION HERE IF YOUR RUNNING PROTECTORS!!!!******* I will only allow you to keep your engine cradle,distributor protector, mid plate, trans protector on IF you follow these following rules!!! THIS WILL BE ENFORCED AND FOLLOWED!!!
Dp must be ONLY attached to engine or trans!! Back side of DP no wider than 12”. No kickers or such off any of the protectors.
-- The only means of mounting engine to factory engine cross member… You can build or weld factory mount/pad to frame but IT MUST BE FACTORY SIZE.. Nothing over 6’’x6’’ mounting pad and can only be welded on the frame cross member, CANNOT extend up into spring pocket or shock tower! One 3/8” chain per side of engine to frame. Only 2 links can be weld to frame rail on top side of frame and no chain past back of engine block..
Transmission cross member MUST be stock for the year,make,model of car you are running! No home made cross members or adding to the stock ones! NO LOADING CROSSMEMBERS!!! If you don’t run trans mount you may chain your transmission to trans cross member at tail shaft with 2- 3/8’’ or smaller chain or cable..
FIREWALL… Must be cut out starting from the top of the transmission bell housing to 3” above the tallest point of the Distributor protector/midplate and 3’’ on each side of widest part of the DP.. ALL of the sheet metal must be COMPLETELY removed in the cutout area!! The rest of the dash can be smashed flat on engine side if you wish but do not weld or bolt or reinforce dash in any way.. HAVE THIS DONE PRIOR TO SHOWING UP OR YOU WILL NOT RUN!
So you are only allowed 3 points of engine/trans mounting at the factory locations and the 2 engine hold down chains…
Dash bar must be a minimum of 8’’ from back of DP to front of dash bar on fresh or preran cars! We will measure through the hole you cut out… YOU WILL NOT BE DQ’D IF YOUR DASH BAR TOUCHES THE DP AFTER THE DERBY that just means you used your car… But you must start out with the 8’’ before… NO removable/adjustable plates from dash bar to DP at ANY POINT. Dash bar and dp must remain the same throughout derby from time of inspection till end of derby. DO NOT add anything between dash ba and dp to fill the gap at anytime throughout derby!! READ CAREFULLY, if you have questions CALL!!
WAGONS.. All rear decking/spare tire cover MUST be removed. NO SEDAGONS!!
Body predenting, prebending, creasing is allowed but do not roll body’s seams to make multiple layers. No welding on body other than what is stated in rules, that includes NO SEAM WELDING… Rear quarter panels must stay in factory upright position.. Do not lay them over.. No full wedge trunks.. You may fold, tuck, dimple, U-shape trunk lid..
Frames- The ONLY welding allowed other than what has been specified in the rules is.. -You can weld frame seams top and bottom from the stock location of transmission cross member to the front bumper. FRAME SEAMS ONLY! ½’’ wide bead max. Do not weld anything else or you will cut! -You can tilt front ends at the FACTORY firewall frame seam or crush box only! The only means of doing this is by cutting factory weld, tilting and rewelding factory frame seam. NO ADDED METAL!! -This is the same method to be used to RESTUB front frames.. IF you restub a front frame it MUST be chevy to chevy, Cadillac to Cadillac, ford to ford, etc and of same year.. No stubbing old cars with newer subs, etc and NO 03 and newer Ford Motor Company frames or front stubs… If you have a question on restubbing call! -Shocks,brackets and bumpers can be welded solid to frame with NO added material.. -ATTENTION HERE ON FRAME PLATING! Can be on fresh or preran cars.. The only means of plating that I will allow will be.. -Eight 6’’x4’’x¼’’ plates TOTAL on car. Only 4 per frame rail(side of car)! Must be welded to outside of frame. Do not butt plates up to one another, CANNOT be made into a continuous plate, must have 2’’ in between each plate welds!! No cutting the plates into smaller plates and welding on frame YOU CAN ONLY HAVE A MAX OF 8 PLATES OR LESS TOTAL ON YOUR FRAME!!! DO NOT SHOW UP WITH MORE! If you have more than that on your frame have the ones you wish not to run cut of BEFORE you show up.. Be easier to have done before hand than doing it at the track and risking chance of not getting to run… -Pinch frame cars may beat over front frame seams and weld down. No added material. -Rear frame rails may be notched or prebent. -No shortening of rear frame rails. -Front frame rails can be shortened but DO NOT move factory Core support mounting bracket or hole!! -No added material to frame of any kind other than what is listed in these rules! -You may run one chain or cable from frame rail to frame rail behind rear end housing. 3/8’’ max. - NO FRAME SHAPING OF ANY KIND! Do not square corners,reshape, etc.. The only thing allowed will be minimal dimpling of the rear frame humps above the rear tires, 6’’ in each direction from the center point of hump. K-frame cars can fold over one side of front frame rail ears, not both and weld down with no added metal. Y-frame(73 and older) mopars can close in the front frame opening by core support in this way only… You can weld a ¼’’ plate top and bottom of frame and can only go 1’’ past the original opening of the frame.. All four plates MUST have a 1” hole cut in the center of plate before you show up!! If you have questions on this CALL..
COMPACTS
All Rules will be followed like the full-size with the exception of the following…
Any compact car or truck allowed within the following specs; 105’’ MAX wheelbase for rear wheel drive car. 108’’ for front wheel drive and trucks.. NO four wheel drives. NO shortening cars to fit wheelbase! No v8’s unless car came factory with one..
Cages cannot extend more than 6’’ past front most of inner door seam and no more than 12’’ behind drivers seat. SEDANS ONLY will be allowed a gas tank protector. Mounted in the same manor as the full-size! From back seat bar to sheet metal where rear seat backing was mounted..
Body Mounts. Same rules apply as full-size if your compact has factory body mounts.. If you compact DOES NOT have body mounts You are allowed SIX 1’’ body/frame bolts placed as you desire inside of the car. MAX 8’’ long and must be vertical thru frame/unibody and floor pan with 5’’x5’’x¼’’ plates max..
Compacts can run DP’s but must be a minimum of 8’’ from rear most part of dp to front most part of dash bar before derby. Compacts DO NOT have to cut firewall out.. Dp’s can only be mounted to eng/trans. Cannot connect to anything else!! Engine/trans mounting is same as full-size.. Factory engine mount locations, trans mount location and two 3/8’’ chains from motor to frame..
Same frame plating rules as full-size!
Same bumper/bracket rules as full-size. May use any factory car bumper. May load bumper but must look stock appearing from outside.. No reshaping bumpers!
Compact trucks must keep bedsides upright. And tailgates use same rules as station wagons. No full wedge cars or trucks. No shortening of frames in rear.
If you cut off bumpers cut off the shocks too! Do not leave shocks sticking out..
POWER WHEELS RULES
-Power wheels open to kids 8 yrs and younger.. Must be a regular sized store bought power wheels. No homemade rides. This for YOUNG kids to have fun and be safe! -Helmets must be worn. -12volt lawn mower battery max. Do not mount in seat or by the kid. Mount in floorboard or away from them and make sure it is safe and COVERED w/ rubber! Stock motors on power wheels, no conversions.. -All doors, tailgates ,hoods and such must be strapped shut with zip ties, duck tape, or something similar. NO metal or sharp edges.. -No adding to the factory power wheels. Body, bumpers and such must remain stock. This is fun for the kids! -So really the only modifications that can be done is lawn mower battery, tie doors shut and paint!! And let the kids have fun!
We will have a designated area for you to keep power wheels till time to run.(NO KIDS IN PITS)
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Post by justin66756 on Jun 5, 2015 8:04:08 GMT -5
MADDOG IS NOW SET AT $1000!!!!!
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Post by justin66756 on Jun 9, 2015 15:38:53 GMT -5
Show starts at 6:00pm!! Be early, inspection ends at 5:00!!
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Brandamn
Pro Cheater
"if you aint on the gas you must be suckin @$$!"
Posts: 129
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Post by Brandamn on Jun 9, 2015 19:30:02 GMT -5
Show starts at 6:00pm!! Be early, inspection ends at 5:00!! Passengers?
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Post by justin66756 on Jun 12, 2015 8:05:30 GMT -5
No passengers sorry.
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Post by amandakay on Jun 12, 2015 11:02:46 GMT -5
Powderpuff?
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Post by greenphantom on Jun 24, 2015 22:17:00 GMT -5
Been waiting to see what the car count and results were. Guess I will ask.
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Post by tanner on Dec 27, 2015 19:09:21 GMT -5
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