EACH CLASS WILL NEED A MINIMUM OF 6 CARS OR WE WILL NOT RUN THAT CLASS AND WILL DISPERSE THAT MONEY TO THE OTHER CLASSES!! IF YOUR CLASS DOES NOT RUN DUE TO CLASS CANCELATION AND YOU DO NOT ENTER ANOTHER CLASS, WE WILL REFUND YOUR CAR ENTRY.
Car/Driver$30 Pit passes $20 General Admission $15
NOONE under age of 14 allowed in pits!!
ALL RULES WILL BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NOT RUN!!! If a car does not pass inspection or the driver cant or wont fix car within time allowed to pass inspection driver will NOT receive a refund of entry.. Bring your car built to the rules! IF ANYTHING IS FOUND IN CAR,FRAME/BODY OR HIDDEN THAT IS NOT ALLOWED IN THESE RULES YOU WILL NOT BE ALLOWED TO FIX IT AND WILL BE LOADED AND LOSE YOUR ENTRY FEE!!! DON’T JUST ASSUME WE WILL ALLOW YOU TO RUN! Don’t bring your plated up cars that “you just want to finish off” to this show unless they are plated to OUR rules…There are other shows that you can take your “rolling dumpster” to.
Any American made, full-size car will be allowed with the exception of the following… NO 2003 or newer Ford Motor Company frames(ford,merc,Lincoln), NO 1973 or older Chrysler imperials or imperial sub frames, no suicide door Lincolns, 4x4’s, ambulance,hearses,trucks,limos,anything classified as a truck, etc..
Drivers must be 14 yrs of age and have valid drivers license. 14-18 yrs of age must have a signed parents release form..
The person that signs in as the driver of that car must run that car.. NO changing drivers of cars or letting someone else drive. Car and driver qualify together.
The driver must wear seat belt and helmet. Fire jacket and eye protection is recommended.
All drivers must attend the drivers meeting.
No hot roding in the pits, keep it at an idle. This will be the quickest way to be DISQUALIFIED or escorted off the property..
Any open door or gas fire will cause disqualification, for that heat or feature.
You are given 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that particular car will be disqualified.
No drivers are allowed alcohol-period! If you are wearing a drivers band and drinking any form of Alcohol-YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED. Drivers keep your pit crew under control, fairboard has the right to have anyone at anytime escorted off the premises and could result in a disqualification of the driver..
Any questions, give me a call: Justin 417-693-6182. If these rules or a phone call to me does not say you can do it THEN DON”T. I can’t stress enough to call first if you have any doubts or questions. Just remember there are always gray areas. If you push the gray areas, you may have to cut or fix it.
Judges decisions are FINAL!!
***LIMITED WELD RULES*** NO DP’s/KICKERS!!!
**No fresh paint, under coating or any other hiding tricks on frame**
All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
NO welding will be allowed on any part of the body or frame unless specified in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction you will not run- IF YOUR CAR IS FOUND TO HAVE WELD ANYWHERE OTHER THAN SPECIFIED AND IT CANNOT BE FIXED PROPERLY WITH A TORCH within the time allowed you will not run!
All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
Tires no bigger than 16 inch. No split rims, no steel studded tires. If you are running a foam filled tire or any tire that may be coming apart during the derby and a hazard to crowd you may be disqualified!
Engines and transmissions... drivetrains may be interchanged. LOWER ENGINE CRADLES/PULLEY PROTECTOR ALLOWED but can only be mounted to the block from bottom side of water pump back to factory mount bosses on side of block. engine mounts may be fabricated and welded as long as it does not strategically reinforce the frame, “A” frames, or shock towers. Must be mounted within 5" of stock location on factory engine crossmember only. You can build or weld factory mount/pad but Nothing over 6’’x6’’ mounting pad and can only be welded on the frame cross member, CANNOT extend up into spring pocket,frame rail or shock tower! Also allowed two 2"x8"x3/8" flat strap to retain engine but must be located within factory engine cradle area and not to strengthen frame. One 3/8” chain per side of engine to frame. Only 2 links can be welded to frame rail on top side of frame and no chain past back of engine block.. -Transmission protectors allowed from back side of block to tail shaft. must make one torch cut full length of transmission in top side of transmission tunnel. If used for any reinforcement it will not be allowed to run. -Transmission must be free floating on crossmember mounted either by a factory mount or by the 2 chains around tailshaft. May build your own crossmember no larger than 2”x2” square tube. no more than 6" of weld allowed to mount it on each frame rail.
You can run a shifter, throttle cable ect thru floor but just keep safety in mind.. If you are running a electric fuel pump you must have it wired to main switch so that when switched off your fuel pump will shut off.
A-arms, spindles, hubs/rotors, springs, ball joints, steering box, center link and tie-rod ends must remain stock Original CAR pieces. You can retube or reinforce tie rods but must use factory tie rod ends for the make and model of car your running. Steering wheel to steering box may be altered but still mechanical. If you have to weld anything to the frame to support steering rod it can only be welded on top side of frame and be no more than 2’’ of weld on frame. NO HYDRAULIC STEERING!! NO AFTER MARKET SPINDELS!
Use rear end of choice factory 8 lug or less. You can tilt rear end if you wish by Shortening or lengthening of stock oem car origin control arms. Control arms must work w/ factory bushings. Control arms may be reinforced. Welded or posi-track highly recommended. Braced rear ends are welcome but must only be used to strengthen rear end housing only! Braces cannot extend further back than 6’’ from back of housing and cannot be any taller than top of factory housing. NO frame supports or pushers! Judge will have final call on this if you have something more on rear end than what is designed to strengthen housing! NO AXLE PROTECTORS. Suspension must be stock for the car model you are running! No homemade suspension..
Rear-Leaf springs must be stock for the model you are running. 9 leaf max! Main leaf must be the top leaf in pack and other leafs following from longest to shortest with a minimum of 2” stagger from leaf to leaf. 4 leaf springs clamps per leaf pack 2”x4’’x¼” max. Coil sprung rear ends may clamp in coils springs to the rear end housing only to keep from loosing them. 1 loop of 3/8’’ chain or cable per side of rear end is allowed from frame to rear end. NO bolting through frame to create a pin and no welding chain to frame, must go over or around frame. Do not weld chain links to create a bar affect. NO SOLID REAR SUSPENSION, must have bounce! No solid shocks or adjusters.. No leaf conversions! **WATTS LINK CONVERSIONS- Only means of doing this is… **Lower control arm brackets you can cut ones off a older ford of same model. If you make your own they must be of same thickness material as frame and can be no larger than 6’’by6’’ and mounted in the same way and location as the older crown vics were mounted.. Absolutely no moving bracket up on down leg of rear hump to strengthen the frame!! **Upper control arm brackets can be homemade, but if homemade they can only be bolted in on the package tray only, not to frame rail or body and a max size of 6’’by6’’ on mounting plate. You can also cut a old package tray out of a older car of same make and model and weld in place of the original package tray.. No excessive welding! One pass of weld only where factory weld was! No welding frame seams in the process.. Judges have final say on how this is done so don’t push your luck! If anything is done out of how the factory did it you will not be allowed to run..
Front-No homemade suspension or mounts!! Do not move a-arm mounts or add any material to them! When bolting a-arms to frame only bolt it on w/ factory size of bolt and as factory would have mounted it.. NO BOLTING as to create the effect of a pin! Do not mount a-arm in any way to help strengthen frame or spring pocket! The ONLY means of welding on front suspension is to raise front end in this way… I will allow a MAX of 2- 3’’x3’’x¼’’ plates per a-arm. DO NOT WELD A-ARM SOLID!! Must be welded on a-arm at the ball joint area to the frame. Sway bars must remain stock, located in stock location and only bolted to frame/a-arm, DO NOT WELD them to frame. You can cut them out if you wish or if they are gonna come in contact with pulley protector they will need to be cut out. ** If anything is done outside of what we want, you WILL cut or fix it.. Have ??’s CALL.
Slider driveshafts are welcome!!
All cars must have working brakes!
All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell, and it must be properly secured and covered. Only metal tanks may be used. No tanks larger than 24’’ wide or long. NO PLASTIC TANKS.. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly in side of car only, DO NOT mount under car. Double clamp all full lines recommended. Keep away from exhaust or sharp pinch points. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat use to be. NO ALCOHOL. Tank protectors will be allowed in sedans only. Only attach to the backseat bar and rear seat area sheet metal. No more than 24” wide at any point. Must run horizontal to the floor pan directly straight off back seat bar to rear seat sheet metal…Gas tank protector can only form a square around the tank, do not weld any down bars or such from it.. If you have questions call!
Transmission coolers are allowed, but must be safe and properly secured.
Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and covered. Max of 2 batteries.
You must have a number in bright colors on each front door and must have a 15” x 15” sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car.
All doors may be welded or chained shut. Driver’s door may be welded solid inside and outside, no more than 6’’ past front or back of drivers door.. If chained must use minimum of 2 chains per door, max of six chains per side for a four-door car. Four chains per side for a two-door car. No chains longer than 3’. IF welded, strap no larger than 3” x 1/8” flat strap may be used. No other filler! Top of door skins may be welded together without any filler material. This includes wagon gates.. ** Make sure you reinforce the drivers door well. This is a derby, it could get hit. We all know in this sport it will happen so expect it, we will not stop the show for minor door hits! Definitely if you use it for defensive driving! Use your door for defensive driving and you could be the one DQ’d!! NO GRADER BLADES!!!!!
Trunks and wagon gates Can be welded shut along factory seam with 3"X1/8" flat strap. No added metal in gutter!! Can use 2-1” all threads with 5” x 5” washers on top side of trunk lid and can go through frame with 1” washer inside frame. Chryslers can weld all thread to the side of the frame 3‘’ max on frame. All thread must be ran vertically. Cut off any excess! All trunk lids must have a 12” x 12” hole for inspection. You may bolt sheet metal back together around hole with 6- 3/8” bolts/washers. You can fold or tuck trunk lid but 50% of the trunk lid must be in factory location.
Hoods- Must be open for inspection.. must have at least a 12” square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolts and washers. A maximum of 6 per hole. If you choose to cut one large hole in your hood you may weld it or bolt it back together with 12-3/8” bolts and washers. You are allowed 6 spots to hold the hood on; minimum of 4. You may have up to 1” all-thread, only 2 may go through factory frame/core support mount hole. All others must be sheet metal to sheet metal and ran vertically. Cut off access all -thread. No plates larger than 5” x 5”. No hood bolts longer than 10”, other than core support bolts. If for some reason you can not run a hood, the fan blade must be removed or belt cut.
For driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X but do not connect to frame. Only to sheet metal! You may also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your dash area to replace your dash. You may run a bar connecting the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front doors only. You may weld two vertical down bars from the cage to the floor pan or frame no more than 3" diameter to protect batteries and your feet. These down bars MUST remain within the inside front door seems and may only be welded to the top side of floor pan sheet metal or top of frame. This is the ONLY part of cage that can connect to frAme. You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the rear seat bar and/or to the floor sheet metal or top side of frame only 3" max and may be attached to roof with two 3/4” bolts max and four 5” x 5” plates max. No part of cage or roll bar can be rearward past rear seat body mount. ROLL BAR MUST BE MOUTED VERTICAL, no laying it back towards rear of car.
All cage material must be straight and not exceed 3’’x3’’square or 3’’ round. Front of cage cannot extend further forward than 6" from dash sheet metal in center of dash and no further back than body mount inside rear door or back seat area. ONLY the Gas Tank protector can extend rearward past the rear seat body mounts…
**THIS YR HOMEMADE BUMPERS ALLOWED BUT MUST BE REASONABLE. Recommend to send me pic first and ask. No large points or they will be cut. You can load bumpers, You may weld the chrome solid to the backing. *Bumper brackets you can either run a factory car bumper bracket or use (1) 10”x4”x1/4”plate per frame rail. no exceptions! You can weld the bumper brackets to the frame and the bumpers to the brackets or bumper directly to frame. Weld them good we don’t want them falling off!! Don’t push your luck! Ask if you have a question on this. No homemade brackets or shocks. Only cars that originally had shocks mounted inside frame may have shocks mounted inside frame.. **Absolutely NO brackets further back than 10’’ from back of bumper, any excess will be cut off! So if you find a bracket of some sort that is longer than 10” it must be shortened!
You may also weld Two 2’’x¼’’ flat strap from bumper to core support and Two on rear bumper to trunk lid.. Max of 36’’ long. Bumper to sheet metal only and ran vertically..
#9 WIRE UNLIMITED. If you go to frame it can only be at one end and must go around frame or thru existing frame hole and other end needs to go thru sheet metal only.. Do NOT weld anything to frame to run wire through! You can weld a 1” washer MAX to the sheet metal to run the wire thru to prevent ripping. NO larger plates at all!! And no adding washers for later use.. 4 loops of wire twisted max!
Body mount bolts may be replaced. NO MOVING BODY MOUNT LOCATIONS including the front core support mounts! You can suck body to frame but no welding body to frame at any point. If you use spacers at body mounts they CANNOT be any more than 3‘’ diameter round pipe! Body bolts may be up to 1’’diameter and 8’’ long max all thread other than the 2 core support and two trunk/wagon gate all threads. Washer on bottom side MUST be inside frame 1“ max! (do not obstruct view of body mount hole or you will cut it out!) Top side of floor pan you may have 5”x5”x¼” plate only! Radiator support can be sucked down to frame without spacer. If you use spacer at core support such as in tilting fords you can only use 3” max diameter pipe directly over top of body mount hole! DO NOT WELD TO FRAME!!! Absolutely NO adding or moving any body mounts locations!! Do not add any bolts,wire,cable,weld,chain etc in any fashion from the body to frame other than stated in these rules! Mopars are allowed to run 1” bolt with a 5” plate on both sides (frame and body) in the front most frame hole in the rear frame (rear seat area).
You can repair floor pan rust with sheet metal only! 2” past where rust stops, do not cut out the rust! No other patching without permission!! I will not allow full plated pillar repair!! No layering/overlapping of sheet metal! If you just show up with repairs and they are more than needed don’t just expect us to allow you in w/ it. Frame rust and repair will follow up in rules…
Fender wells may be cut for clearance. You will be allowed 12-3/8"bolts/washers per front fender and rear quarter.
For safety you must have 2 flat straps in windshield area from roof to cowl. Sheet metal to sheet metal only. Do not weld more than 6‘’ on each end.. Strap must not exceed 3’’x¼” flat strap. If you do not weld strap on you can use 2 spots of chain,wire,cable.. Do not attach to cage, roll bar,etc… If bars are used to strengthen car in any way they will be cut or fixed..
Radiators must be factory oem style for model of car you run and in factory location. Aluminum aftermarket ones are ok. NO redibarrels or custom steels tank style radiators.. NO RADIATOR GAURDS or explanded metal! You can use A/C condenser in front of radiator. You can use two 3/8” or smaller all threads or two ratchet straps around radiator to help hold it in. nothing more.. Minimal expanding foam, only to keep radiator from moving side to side.. No filling holes..
WAGONS.. All rear decking/spare tire cover MUST be removed. NO SEDAGONS!!
Body predenting, prebending, creasing is allowed but do not roll body’s seams to make multiple layers. No welding on body other than what is stated in rules, that includes NO SEAM WELDING… Rear quarter panels and taillight panel must stay in factory upright position.. Do not lay them over.. No full wedge trunks.. You may fold, tuck, dimple, U-shape trunk lid..
Frames- The ONLY welding allowed other than what has been specified in the rules is.. -You can weld frame seams top and bottom from the factory location of transmission cross member to the front bumper. FRAME SEAMS ONLY! ½’’ wide bead max. Do not weld anything else or you will cut! -You can tilt front ends at the FACTORY firewall frame seam or crush box only! The only means of doing this is by cutting factory weld, tilting and rewelding factory frame seam. NO ADDED METAL!! -This is the same method to be used to RESTUB front frames.. IF you restub a front frame it MUST be chevy to chevy, Cadillac to Cadillac, ford to ford, etc and of same year.. No stubbing old cars with newer subs, etc and NO 03 and newer Ford Motor Company frames or front stubs… If you have a question on restubbing call! -Shocks,brackets and bumpers can be welded solid to frame. -ATTENTION HERE ON FRAME PLATING! Can be on fresh or preran cars.. The only means of plating that I will allow will be.. -(12) 4'’x6’’x¼’’ plates TOTAL on car. Max of 6 plates for a total of 36" per frame rail(side of car)! Must be welded to outside of frame. YOU CAN ONLY HAVE A MAX OF 12 PLATES OR LESS TOTAL ON YOUR FRAME!! DO NOT SHOW UP WITH MORE! If you have more than that on your frame have the ones you wish not to run cut of BEFORE you show up.. Be easier to have done before hand than doing it at the track and risking chance of not getting to run… -Pinch frame cars may beat over front frame seams and weld down. No added material. -Rear frame rails may be notched or prebent. -No shortening of rear frame rails. -Front frame rails can be shortened up to front of core support mounting hole but DO NOT move factory Core support mounting bracket or hole!! -No added material to frame of any kind other than what is listed in these rules! -You may run one chain or cable from frame rail to frame rail behind rear end housing. 3/8’’ max. - NO FULL FRAME SHAPING. Do not square corners,reshape, etc unless it is to fix damaged frame. The only thing allowed will be minimal dimpling of the rear frame humps above the rear tires. K-frame cars can fold over one side of front frame rail ears, not both and weld down with no added metal. Y-frame(73 and older) mopars can close in the front frame opening by core support in this way only… You can weld a ¼’’ plate top and bottom of frame and can only go 1’’ past the original opening of the frame.. All four plates MUST have a 1” hole cut in the center of plate before you show up!! If you have questions on this CALL.
***PURE STOCK FULL-SIZE***
This is a new class we are gonna start that will bring derby back to anyone that wants some cheap easy fun!
The following is the ONLY things you will be able to do to your car. Car must remain as it came from the factory other than what is set forth in these rules! NO predenting of car bodies.. May cut off anything u wish but do not add!
Any American made full-size car will be allowed with the exception of the following… NO 2003 or newer Ford Motor Company frames(ford,merc,Lincoln), NO 1973 or older Chrysler imperials or imperial sub frames, no suicide door Lincolns, 4x4’s, ambulance,hearses,trucks,limos,anything classified as a truck, etc..
1. Car must be stripped of all flammable materials, plastic,glass, chrome, molding and such before arriving at track!
2. Metal gas tank must be located inside car in a secure, safe manner
3. Battery moved inside car and covered.
4. 3”x3” max material to make a 4 bar, 4 point cage inside car from front door post to behind driver seat. May be connected on both sides. No part of cage beyond body mount at rear seat area. Single bar halo over top of roof mounted to top side of cage. (2) 1/2” bolts attaching it to roof. (1) down bar from cage to floor pan sheet metal inside front door seams to protect legs and battery. 5. Hood must have a 5x5 hole cut in it to extinguish fires. Hood must open for inspection and must remain on hinges. You can use 8 pieces of chain 3/8 6 in hood to fender, 2 from hood to bumper .or you can use 9 wire the same way with 3 wraps per fastening spot. Must have windshield bar from top of windshield to top of fire wall you can use 9 wire, chain or 3 inch flat metal. 2 max in this area.
6. Trunks must be on hinges. You can use 8 pieces of chain 3/8 in trunk 6 to fasten trunk lid and 2 from trunk lid to bumper. Or you can use 9 wire the same way with 3 wraps per fastening spot. You can tuck 50% of trunk lid only or remove trunk lid completely.
7. BUMPERS can be bolted on with two 3⁄4 x 8 inch long althread with 3 inch washers or use your wire or chain. You can replace aluminum bumper with a steel bumper if needed. Must be from same era of car.
8. Doors you can use 6 pieces of chain 3/8” per door or 6 pieces of 9 wire per door with 3 wraps. Both front doors you can have a six inch wide piece of channel or equivalent from 6 inches in front of front doors to 6 inches behind front doors. May be welded or bolted.
9. TIRES: D.O.T. approved light truck tires max.
10. Headers allowed.
11. REAR ENDS: Locking of rear ends permitted, otherwise stock!
12. FRAME Notching of frame permitted but cannot be welded back together.
13. Push pull shifter allowed.
14.Push button start allowed. Electric fuel pumps must activated with your kill switch!
15. No drivetrain swaps! Run what came factory for that car! I will allow full injection to be swapped to carb..
THIS IS THE MAX OF WHAT YOU CAN DO ON A BONE STOCK CAR. DO NOT DO ANYMORE THAN THIS OR YOU WON’T BE RUNNING THIS CLASS.
NO TRUCKS, SUVS or FULL FRAME VEHICLES!!
Preparation of Cars WHEEL BASE WILL NOT EXCEED 108 INCHES. Measured from center of wheel to center of wheel (must be factory 108 inches cannot move wheels in). No convertibles. All glass, chrome, pot metal, lights, carpet, headliner, back seats, fiber glass (anything flammable) must be removed before reaching the exhibit area. DO NOT BREAK GLASS IN DOORS. Trunks must be empty of all debris (spare tires, rims, etc.). Absolutely no welding but what is stated in these rules. Mandatory you must have number on both front doors and roof big enough to see and must be bright enough colors to be seen. No profanity allowed on cars.
Engines Must be 4 or 6 cylinders and must be in stock position. No cradles or protectors. YOU can have a simple carb protector from motor mounts on front to bolts on back of motor. ( no bigger then 2x3 material to be used). If it is used for anything other than to protect carb it will come off before u run!
MOTOR MOUNTS YOU CAN USE A 2X2 SQUARE TUBING TO REPLACE FACTORY MOUNT BUT, NOTHING TO MAKE IT A KICKER.
Radiators May be removed but not relocated
Transmission TRANNY COOLERS ARE ALLOWED keep safety in mind when installing. NO PROTECTORS. YOU CAN HAVE A AFTER MARKET SHIFTER
Battery Must be in a secure position and be covered with something nonflammable (like rubber floor mat). Batteries must be secure with no movement.
Suspension/steering Must remain stock.
Steering Column May be modified from gear box to steering wheel. All other components must remain stock. No hydraulic setups.
Windshield Must have two spots of chain or 9 wire.
Hood Must be in factory position. 4 hood bolts allowed but only 2 can go to the frame. They cannot go in front of the radiator. Bolts must not be bigger than ¾ with washers no larger than 6 inches outside diameter. Must have 2 holes cut in hood big enough for fire extinguisher. Not directly over carburetor. Althread or bolts must be straight.
Trunk/Wagon tailgate/Hatches You can use 4 ¾ bolts with washers not bigger than 6 inches outside diameter, none to the frame, 9 wire or (2) 3"x6" straps welded. Trunk lids must remain on hinges. You may tuck the trunk but no wedging and no sedagons. ONLY 50% OF TRUNKS MAY BE TUCKED , V-D. Trunk lids may be removed.
Body No seam welding allowed. No patching allowed. Pre-denting is okay. Creasing is allowed no double creasing no welding or bolting creases.
Fenders Fenders may be trimmed. Nothing added.
Body mount bolts Must be factory size and must be in factory location. Must have factory rubbers.
Frame Absolutely no welding on frame other than bumper mounting. No reinforcing of frame. You can notch the frame. Preran cars with noticeable damage can have up to (4) 4x4x1/4 inch plates for damaged area only. Must have at least 4 inches between all patches and brackets.
Doors Driver door may be welded solid with a strap no bigger than 3 inches, on the outside only. Driver’s door must be reinforced. All other doors must be chained or wired in two places or 2-3"x6" straps welded.
Cage You may have a square cage around seat. The cage cannot extend past the dash area in the front and must be at least 4 inches in front of the rear wheel wells in the back. This can be welded in. Absolutely no kickers. You may have a halo bar no further back than 10 inched behind driver’s seat. None of the cage or halo bars can connect to the frame, back seat area or to windshield bars or roof signs. Cage must be at least 4 inches off of floor and no higher than bottom of door windows. Halo bars must be vertical. Gas tank protectors allowed but must mount off back seat bar and not attached to anything else.
Bumpers FULL SIZED STOCK BUMPERS ALLOWED must be cut down to width of car. You may weld the bumper on. Bumper brackets must be factory car brackets or 1- 4"x6" plate per frame rail. welding of bumpers and brackets can go no further back than 6 inches from back side of bumper! No stuffed bumpers. You can have 2-3/8" chains or two spots of 9 wire from bumper to sheet metal. No pointy bumpers in this class!!! BUMPER SKIN MAY BE WELDED.
Gas Tank Maximum 5 gallons of gas. Prefer to be placed in back seat area and properly secured and covered. If tank is left under car it must be in front of rearend. And please make sure it’s not full In case of leak!
Tires Any tire allowed. Valve stem protectors are okay. NO reinforcing of rims except around bolt holes (2 inch maximum on outside diameter of lug holes).
POWER WHEELS RULES
-Power wheels open to kids 8 yrs and younger.. Must be a regular sized store bought power wheels. No homemade rides. This for YOUNG kids to have fun and be safe! -Helmets must be worn. -12volt lawn mower battery max. Do not mount in seat or by the kid. Mount in floorboard or away from them and make sure it is safe and COVERED w/ rubber! Stock motors on power wheels, no conversions.. -All doors, tailgates ,hoods and such must be strapped shut with zip ties, duck tape, or something similar. NO metal or sharp edges.. -No adding to the factory power wheels. Body, bumpers and such must remain stock. This is fun for the kids! -So really the only modifications that can be done is lawn mower battery, tie doors shut and paint!! And let the kids have fun!
We will have a designated area for you to keep power wheels till time to run.(NO KIDS IN PITS)
CRAZY 8 FIGURE 8
**This will be a contact event but not a all out derby! We will allow contact in the X crossing of the track if you dare, otherwise cars must be racing for the lead! You must follow the course and must go around each tire in the correct direction to count your laps made. -Open to any car built to the following guidelines. -All cars must be on factory suspension with drivetrains in factory location. -All cars must be stripped before entering the grounds. All loose items must be removed from the car including items in the truck and door panels -Door and truck lids must be welded shut or chained with minimum 5/16" chain. -Hood can be chained with a minimum 5/16" chain or no more than (4), 3/4" all thread. -Gas tank must be metal. Please use a maximum of 6 gallons of fuel!! You will not use that much during the race and helps us out if you have a leak! You can leave tanks underneath car IF in front of rear axle. If gas tank is moved it must be fastened safely the rear seat area. -ELECTRIC FUEL PUMPS MUST BE POWERED BY YOUR IGNITION SWITCH!! -Batteries may be moved to the front seat compartment and securely fastened. -Air cleaners must be left in place. -Drivers compartment must have a 4 point roll cage. A minimum of 2" O.D. pipe may be used. May use 3" square tubing 1/4" max as 4 point cage. Halo bar is optional but highly recommended. -Driver door reinforcement must be added. No Grader blades. Race car style cages with front and rear loops are legal. -Holes must be cut in the hood large enough for a fire extinguisher to be used. -Radiator must be left in factory location. -All wheels must be stock OEM. Balancing weights removed. Nothing added to wheels. Tires must be DOT approved light truck tire max. No off-road or racing tires. -For safety reasons leave firewall intact or holes covered. Clean engine of oil and grease. -All cars will need to have a number on roof, will help with scoring. -A piece of pipe or square tubing, no more than 4" and no wider than fenders can be used for a bumper, front and rear. A push bar can be welded to the bumpers but no taller than 12". -windshield needs to have a minimum of 2 bars for safety from cowl to roof -Seatbelt and shoulder harness must be permanently mounted and used at all times during the race. -Helmets with a face shield or goggles must be worn. If a helmet or eye protection comes off or is removed during a race, driver will be disqualified from the race. -Driver will be disqualified for the heat if any door or hood comes open during the race. -Driver must be present at the drivers meeting. -When calls go out to be in place, drivers have two minutes to be in place or will be disqualified for the race. Be ready and watching for your heats!<we won’t come find you. -Any car that rolls over or catching fire will be allowed one restart at tail back of the field. UPON JUDGES APPROVAL. -All cars must stop immediately in the current spot when red flag comes out. -Driver must stay in car until race is over. If a red flag happens you cannot get out of your car for any reason, other than a fire. If you do you will be disqualified. -Drivers must keep arms and hands inside of car during race. -Flagging will be in accordance with stock car racing and will be explained at the drivers meeting. -All cars are subject to re-inspection at any time, all ruling by the judges are final. -For safety reason, we recommend that you wear a fire suit, neck roll. Jeans and long sleeve shirts are mandatory.
Old Skool Productions LLC: we are working hard to get payouts up we have been in contact with the fair associations and are working as quickly as possible to get you payout info will post s soon as we finalize the contracts
Jun 3, 2016 7:54:47 GMT -5