|
Post by Cody Anno 09 on Sept 2, 2010 17:05:17 GMT -5
UDP is going to be announcing our winter team event in the next few days but here is a little bit of information.
Ultimate Demo Promotions is excited to announce the biggest Team Event that we have ever put on. We obviously had issues with ventilation last year at our New Years Eve Event so we have looked for months for the right facility and I believe we have found it. We will be holding an event in one of the nicest facilities that I have been in and trust me we have looked at a bunch of them. The facility is set-up with great ventilation and great seating. We are going to be holding this event in the Kansas Expocentre it seats 8,000+ people and has an ag arena connected to it where we will have the indoor pits.
Classes we will run:
Team Event - 16 Teams of 4 Cars 80's Event - 20 Car Limit Trucks - 10 Truck Limit Compacts - 20 Car Limit
|
|
|
Post by Cody Anno 09 on Sept 2, 2010 17:05:50 GMT -5
Event Information Classes Running - Team Event (4 man teams) - 16 Team Limit – Bracket Format, see below 80's Event - 20 Car Limit - One Run Go Trucks - 10 Truck Limit - One Run Go Compacts - 20 Car Limit - One Run Go Dates - December 4 - 12:00-4:00 Session 1 - Rounds 1-8 December 4 - 6:00 - Finish Session 2 - Rounds 9-20 December 5 - 4:00 - Finish Session 3 - All Features See Bracket Below, Rounds are the Number is Red Location - Kansas Expocentre Topeka Kansas Landon Arena - Demo will be held here Domer Livestock Arena - Indoor Pits Entry Fees & Payouts: Team Event - $1000 - $100 of this is a deposit you will get back when you leave and your pit area is clean. A Feature 1st - $8000 2nd - $4000 3rd - $2000 4th - $1000 B Feature 1st - $3000 2nd - $1500 3rd - $1000 4th - $500 80's Event - Entry $200.00 1st - $2,000.00 2nd - $1,000.00 3rd - $750.00 4th - $500.00 5th - $250.00 6th - $125.00 Compacts - Entry $100.00 1st - $1,000.00 2nd - $800.00 3rd - $600.00 4th - $400.00 5th - $200.00 6th - $100.00 Trucks - Entry $150.00 1st - $1,500.00 2nd - $1,000.00 3rd - $500.00 Team Entry can be printed below and sent with a check. www.scribd.com/doc/36328401Trucks, Compacts, and 80s Entrys will be done over the internet and will open Thursday. I will post the web address on Wecrash, and our website www.udpromo on Thursday. I will try and get all the rules out tomorrow. Please let me know if you have any questions. Thanks, Sam Williams 303-726-8337
|
|
|
Post by Cody Anno 09 on Sept 2, 2010 17:06:24 GMT -5
Rules for Team & 80s Cars
Ultimate Demo Promotions Open Class Set of Rules Winter Demolition Derby Promoted by – UDP Sam Williams – 303-726-8337
General Rules
1. ALL RULES WILL BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NOT RUN. 2. Any American make car can run with the following exceptions. No 1970 or older Lincolns. No 1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Imperial sub-frames, 4x4’s, ambulance, hearses, trucks, limousines, etc… 3. Drivers must be 18 years of age. Ages 16-17 must have a NOTARIZED permission slip and a valid driver’s license. 4. The person that signs in as the driver – must be the driver for the event. 5. Driver must wear a seat belt, helmet, FIRE SUIT JACKET (no more exceptions to the fire jacket rule). 6. All Drivers and Crew Members must attend the drivers meeting. 7. No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle. This will be the quickest way to be DISQUALIFIED. 8. Any open door or fire will cause disqualification, for that heat, of that particular car not the team. 9. You are given 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that particular car will be disqualified, not the team. You are only given 1 minute in total, not 1 minute to get started and 1 minute to hit. 10. No drivers are allowed alcohol - period. If you are wearing a driver’s band and drinking any form of Alcohol -YOU (if team event AND YOUR TEAM) WILL BE DISQUALIFIED. 11. Cars will be re-inspected before any prize money is paid out. The cars will be re-inspected by the head judges, and Sam Williams only. Everyone else will stay back until cars are deemed to be legal. 12. There is a $250.00 protest fee, and you must be a driver in the main event to protest another car or team’s car. Driver must have cash in hand directly after the feature in order to protest. If the car is found to be illegal it will be disqualified and (if it is a team event the ENTIRE TEAM WILL BE DISQUALIFIED). 13. Any complaints that a driver has about another car prior to the start of the first heat will need to be addressed in the drivers meeting in specifics. If nothing is said, we don’t want to hear about it after the show. 14. Any questions, give me a call: Sam Williams 303-726-8337. If these rules or a phone call to us does not say you can do it THEN DON’T. We can’t stress enough to call first. 15. Judges decisions are FINAL!!!
Car Preparation
1. No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames except where welding is specifically allowed in these rules. 2. All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules. 3. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby. 4. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed. 5. Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and covered. 6. You must have a number in Bright colors on each front door and must have a 15”x15” sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car. Please paint all cars with the same color of paint and the number all in the same color. We want all cars to match as closely as possible. 7. You must use a radiator and it must be in stock location. 8. All cars must have working brakes. 9. You can run shifter through the floor, and you can have a switch panel. If you are running an electric fuel pump, it must be hooked up to your ignition switch, so when your car shuts off so does the fuel pump. 10. You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with 5 -3/8” bolts or less with 1.25” diameter washers. No rolling your fenders and welding them. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the core support do not exceed 4 – 3/8” bolts with 1.25” washers to bolt back to the core support of fender. 11. No radiator guards in front of or behind radiator
Tires
1. Tires no bigger than 15 inch, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or doubled tires are ok – we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims.
Motors and Transmission
1. Use motor of choice, motor must be in stock location.
A. You have two options for tying in your motor:
If using a distributor protector:
You may weld in additional supports to the engine cradle area, but they may not be attached to the frame rails at any point. THEY MAY NOT HAVE ANY PUROPOSE OTHER THAN TO HOLD THE ENGINE IN PLACE, OFFICIALS DECISION IS FINAL
Distributor protectors allowed, must be attached to engine or transmission only, backside must be no wider than 12 inches. If you run a DP do not mount your dash bar closer than 6 inches from any sheet metal, firewall, dash, or floor tin. It may not be welded, bolted or connected to body, hood or frame. Forward supports must be inside normally positioned headers and not extend past the water pump.
AFTERMARKET ENGINE CRADLES ARE ALLOWED. PULLEY PROTECTORS ARE NOT ALLOWED. IF YOU USE A FRONT MOTOR PLATE, IT MAY NOT BE GUSSETTED TO THE HEADER FLANGES OR ATTACHED IN ANY OTHER MANNER. THE DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTOR IS AND MUST REMAIN A SEPARATE ITEM, NOT CONNECTED TO ANY OTHER COMPONENT IN ANY MANNER.
If not using a distributor protector:
You may attached a strap on all four corners of engine going down to the frame, this strap may be welded directly to the top or side of the frame only, not to exceed 3/8” thick by 2” wide strap and no more than 2” total strap attached to the frame on each attachment point. The straps on the front of the motor cannot extend on the frame any more than 2” past the front of the head and cannot extend backwards at all. The straps on the rear of the motor cannot extend back on the frame any more than 2” past the back of the head and cannot extend forward at all. These straps can be connected from front to back, but the connection piece must be at least 4” above the frame and not to interfere with the A-Arm.
AFTERMARKET ENGINE CRADLES ARE ALLOWED. PULLEY PROTECTORS ARE NOT ALLOWED. IF YOU USE A FRONT MOTOR PLATE, IT MAY NOT BE GUSSETTED TO THE HEADER FLANGES OR ATTACHED IN ANY OTHER MANNER. THE DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTOR IS AND MUST REMAIN A SEPARATE ITEM, NOT CONNECTED TO ANY OTHER COMPONENT IN ANY MANNER.
This Rule will be Enforced. You must run the transmission cross member in the stock location you can weld 2” angle iron no thicker than 1/4”, no longer than 6” to the side of the frame to support the cross member. If you pre-bend your frame do not use angle iron to re-support the bent area. The transmission cross member is the only method which the transmission may be tied in. Do not attach transmission to dash bar or any other point in the car other than the cross member. If you choose to run an engine mid-plate this can only be attached to the frame by using the straps on the back of the motor and must be within the rules above. If you have questions on this please call!!!!!!
Rear-Ends
Use rear end of choice, but must be no more than 5 lugs. You can tilt rear end if you wish. Welded or posi-track highly recommended. Back braces are welcome. Rear end control arms can be reinforced. If you reinforce your control arms you must build them starting with a stock set. They may be shortened or made longer.
Fuel Tank, Oil Coolers, & Transmission Coolers
Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell, and it must be properly secured and covered. Only metal tanks may be used. Non County Fair Events - Fuel cell cannot exceed 12”x12”x12” or 7 gallons. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat use to be. No other source of gas inside the car at all. Engine coolers are allowed, however they must be a cooler with an elect. fan, no water/ice barrels or boxes can be used, these coolers cannot be placed to reinforce the car.
Sedans only, are allowed a gas tank protector, no wider than 24 inches, must be at least 1” away from rear tray package. May NOT run straight back to frame humps, must angle in from back seat pipe. IT MAY RUN STRAIGHT BACK, BUT ONLY IN THE CENTER OF THE CAR, and must be 4” off the floor. May not be connected to gas tank and must be free floating.
|
|
|
Post by Cody Anno 09 on Sept 2, 2010 17:06:48 GMT -5
Welding
NO welding will be allowed on any part of the body or frame. The only welding allowed is in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your car or team will not run!!
All doors must be chained, wired, bolted or welded shut. Driver’s door may be welded inside and outside. All doors may be welded shut with strap no bigger than 3” by 1/8” thick. Tops of the doors may be pinched together and welded but do not add any filler material.
80s Cars Only - Re-welding of factory frame seems (both top side and bottom side) from the: Fords - back of the boxes forward is allowed (You are allowed to cut the frame at the box, pull it down, and re-weld it.), GMs - Firewall forward is allowed, Chryslers - Firewall forward is allowed (Do not weld the K-member to the frame as you created this seem and it is not considered a factory seem) 1/2" wide weld bead maximum. Old Iron Cars- Re-welding of factory frame seems (both top and bottom) from the "A" arms forward is allowed. No welding behind the "A" arms is allowed unless otherwise stated in a different section of the rules. ***Do not paint the frames at all, we want to see the welds***
Cage
For driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X do not connect directly to frame, and you may also have a bar across your dash area to replace your dash (must be at least 6” away from all sheet metal, firewall, dash, and floor tin). You may run a bar down each front door connecting the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front doors only. You can also weld a plate across the driver’s door not to exceed 6 inches past each seam.
You may have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be welded or bolted to the roof – no kickers going back or front of the car. You may also weld a steering column to the cage. Back of cage including roll bar can only be 10” behind the back of the driver seat. You may also run a kicker from the door bar down to the floor or frame, do not extend any further forward than the front door seam, between the dash bar and seat bar, on the driver’s side only. **Please reinforce your driver’s door very good, in this type of competition all drivers doors will take some type of hit during the event. We want you to be safe and protected behind your reinforcement.**
Bumpers
Bumpers are interchangeable. Use your choice of bumper brackets either from bumper itself or car’s stock bumper - no enclosing or boxing frames with bumper brackets or foreign material. Choose one and only one way, either the brackets from the bumper you choose to run or the brackets that were supplied with the factory bumper. Any automotive bumper and bumper brackets may be used on any car. No homemade bumpers or bumper brackets. You can weld bumper brackets or towers to the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock towers. You can collapse shocks, and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with ½” bolt or less, and it must be done vertically.
You may reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper. The bumper must start stock and may have metal put inside for reinforcement. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding the bumper skins (chrome to inner liner) is allowed. When welding bumpers, shocks, and brackets - do not add any metal. Weld them solid. We do not want them coming off. No welding bumper to the body in any fashion. Bumper height not to exceed 24” to the bottom of the bumper to the ground. Bumpers must be in stock location. Bumpers may be welded to the end of the frame with no added metal, just welding wire.
Front and rear bumpers may have 4 loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed in front of the radiator.
Trunks
You can fold hoods or trunk lid over, but 60% of the hood/trunk lid must be factory location. Do not slide your hood or trunk forward or back this would mean that 0% would be in the factory location, trunk must remain on hinges. Truck lids must have a six inch hole cut in the first 60% for inspection purposes, inspection hole may have 3 -3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washer bolting the two layers back together. YOUR TRUNK LID MAY BE V’D IN THE CENTER, BUT MUST REMAIN AT LEAST 10” OFF THE TRUNK FLOOR. If you tuck the remaining 40% of the trunk lid to the trunk floor you can only use a total of 12” to attach it to the floor.
2-1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame, MUST go through body mount hole, and you must have a spacer between the body and frame. You may use wire in 2 spots with 4 loops from trunk lid and may go around the frame with the wire. DON’T DO BOTH. Trunk lids may be chained/ wired/welded/ bolted from sheet metal to sheet metal. Chryslers may weld all thread to side of frame but the all thread must be vertical and go up through the deck lid, or they can go through the frame if they so choose. Short Trunk cars – If you run ready bolt through the front body mount they must be slightly bent to make sure they go through the trunk lid. Ready bolt can also be just tin to tin if you choose not to go through or attach to the frame.
Hoods
Hood must have at least a 12 inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washer no more than a total of 12 bolts allowed to pinch the hood sheet metal back together. You may cut multiple holes but do not exceed the 12 bolts. You are allowed 8 spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of 4 tie down spots. You may have up to 1” all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame, but must go through the front body mounts. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only, and the hold down bolts cannot exceed 8” in length! You may have plates for hood tie down, not to exceed 5x5x1/4”square or 6” x1/4” round.
|
|
|
Post by Cody Anno 09 on Sept 2, 2010 17:07:16 GMT -5
Body Mounts
Body mount bolts can be replaced with 1” bolts, body mounts can be replaced with steel or washers but must be 1” thickness and have the same diameter as stock spacers. Bolts may extend through body and have up to a 5x5x1/4” square or 6”x1/4” round washer on top, washers must be separate and cannot reinforce the frame. Bolts must be up inside of frame as factory and may have larger washer inside of frame, not to exceed 5” long. If you choose to use a body mount hole for you trunk ready bolt this does not have to be up inside frame, the plate can go on the bottom side of the frame. Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid. Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added, do not shorten the front of your car and move back the body mount as your car will not run. Do not add bolts, wire, chain, or cable in any fashion from the body to the frame other than stated in these rules. Chrysler k-member cars can remove the rubber spacers between the frame and k-member and bolt them up tight. Bolts may be replaced with up to ¾” in diameter. All cars, if you choose to leave in the stock rubber pucks you must leave the metal cones inside the rubber puck. You must leave at least a ¾ space if using the factory rubber spacer. Do not devise a way that enables you to suck them down tight.
Do not move the any body mount hole to shorten a frame rail. If you move a body mount hole and your car cannot be made right it will not run.
Rust and Repair
You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal only. Do not cut rust out; weld 2” beyond rust. If your frame is rusted through, call for instructions on how to the fix the rust hole. DO NOT FIX IT WITHOUT CALLING AND EXPECT US TO ALLOW YOU TO RUN IT.
Suspension
Suspension must be stock height. Leaf springs must be stock and made of stock spring material, with a 1”stagger and no springs can be as long as the main leaf. You can only have a total of 9 leaf springs per side no thicker than 3/8" thick and no wider than 2 ¾” wide. The main leaf must be the top spring in the spring pack and leaf springs must go down from longest to shortest in minimum 1” stagger. You can re-clamp springs, 6 clamps per side with only 4 being homemade. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4”. You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring, you can double the rear springs (they may be tied together in no more than two spots, do not weld them together), or put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other ways except what is listed above. You can bolt, wire, or chain coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out, do not go through body as this would be another body mount. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them from becoming unbolted. You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8” chain or 4 loops of #9 wires) from rear end to frame in 2 spots on each side, must go around frame, do not bolt the chain to the frame. We are going to allow you to weld the chain to the side of the frame, for your chains from the frame to the rear end, you can weld one link only to the side of the frame if you choose to weld the chain instead of wrapping it around the frame.
A-arms, ball joints, and tie-rods ends must remain stock. Tie rod tubes may be welded but no added material and must start from a stock tie rod tube do not manufacture them. Only stock car ball joints and tie rod ends are allowed; no pickup or van tie rod ends.
A-arms may be welded or bolted down either by taking out the rubber grommet underneath the a-arm and weld the a-arm directly to the frame using the grommet hole with only a 2” long weld by ½” wide or use up to two straps 1/8”x2” strap only 4” long looping over the a-arm welding to the frame holding the a-arm down.
WATTS-LINK CONVERSIONS:
YOU MAY CONVERT A WATTS LINK FORD TO A STANDARD GM REAREND IN THE FOLLOWING WAY.. USE THE TRAILING ARM BRACKETS OFF AN OLDER FORD OR METAL OF THE SAME SIZE AND THICKNESS. NO POSITIONING OF THE BRACKETS TO STRENGTHEN THE FRONT DOWNLEG OF THE REAR HUMP. YOU MAY CUT OUT THE COIL SPRING FRAME TRAY FROM AN EARLIER YEAR FORD AND WELD IT IN THE NEWER FORD, IF YOU CHOOSE TO MANUFACTURE A SYSTEM FOR THE UPPER BRACKETS PLEASE CALL AHEAD. ONE PASS ONLY, ¼” MAXIMUM. NO STRONGER THAN STOCK.
Window Bars & #9 Wire
For safety, all cars must have (2) windshield bars extending from the roof of the car to the firewall/dash, straps cannot be any larger than 3/8"x3". If and only if you remove a part of the firewall/dash you are allowed to connect these two bars. The removed part must be completely removed and must be as wide as the vertical bars. The horizontal bars connecting the two vertical bars cannot be any larger than 3/8"x3" straps. No more than 6" of strap material allowed on the roof and no more than 6" of strap material allowed on the firewall. Do not go over 6" on roof or firewall or you will cut. If the firewall/dash is completely cut out you can weld a strap from the dash sheet metal to the dash safety bar, on either side of the cut out portion. Do not connect the windshield bars to the dash safety bar in any manner. If window bars are deemed to reinforce the firewall beyond reason they will be changed. Judges discretion
You are allowed 2 spots with 4 loops of wire (no cable or chain) in each window opening and may go to the frame. All #9 wire going through the windows must stay in the passenger compartment. When going through the floor and around the frame it has to go through the flat part of the floor. If you don’t understand please call first. Rear window can have 1 spot with 4 loops or wire going to sheet metal, this can go to anywhere you choose but must be top window opening to sheet metal only.
You may run wire from frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This must go around the frame, not bolting it to the frame. Do not pass this wire through the trunk as it would be another body mount, must go under trunk floor.
No 2003 or New Ford Cars or Frame and no wagons allowed sedans only at December Team Show!!
|
|
|
Post by Cody Anno 09 on Sept 2, 2010 17:07:49 GMT -5
Rules for Compacts
Ultimate Demo Promotions Compact Rules December Event Promoted by – UDP Sam Williams – 303-726-8337
General Rules
1. ALL RULES WILL BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NOT RUN. 2. Any compact car with the following specs; 105” Maximum Wheel Base for Rear Wheel Drive, 108” Maximum Wheel Base for Front Wheel Drive. Four Wheel drive cars must remove front drive shaft. 3. Drivers must be 18 years of age. Ages 16-17 must have a NOTARIZED permission slip and a valid driver’s license. 4. The person that signs in as the driver – must be the driver for the event. 5. Driver must wear a seat belt, helmet, FIRE SUIT JACKET (no more exceptions to the fire jacket rule). 6. All Drivers and Crew Members must attend the drivers meeting. 7. No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle. This will be the quickest way to be DISQUALIFIED. 8. Any open door or fire will cause disqualification, for that heat, of that particular car not the team. 9. You are given 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that particular car will be disqualified, not the team. You are only given 1 minute in total, not 1 minute to get started and 1 minute to hit. 10. No drivers are allowed alcohol - period. If you are wearing a drivers band and drinking any form of Alcohol -YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED 11. Cars will be re-inspected before any prize money is paid out. The cars will be re-inspected by the head judges, and Sam Williams only. Everyone else will stay back until cars are deemed to be legal. 12. There is a $250.00 protest fee, and you must be a driver in the main event to protest another team’s car. Driver must have cash in hand directly after the feature in order to protest. If the car is found to be illegal the ENTIRE TEAM WILL BE DISQUALIFIED. 13. Any complaints that a driver has about another car prior to the start of the first heat will need to be addressed in the drivers meeting in specifics. If nothing is said, we don’t want to hear about it after the show. 14. Any questions, give us a call: Sam Williams 303-726-8337. If these rules or a phone call to us does not say you can do it THEN DON’T. We can’t stress enough to call first. 15. Judges decisions are FINAL!!!
Car Preparation
1. No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames except where welding is specifically allowed in these rules. 2. All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules. 3. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby. 4. Tires no bigger than 15 inch, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or doubled tires are ok – we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims. 5. Use motor and tranny of choice, motor must be in stock location. You may chain or weld motor and tranny to keep in place, but don’t strategically strengthen the frame. You may attached a strap on all four corners of engine going down to the frame, this strap may be welded directly to the top or side of the frame only, not to exceed 3/8” thick by 2” wide strap. The straps on the front of the motor cannot extend on the frame any more than 2” past the front of the head and cannot extend backwards at all. The straps on the rear of the motor cannot extend back on the frame any more than 2” past the back of the head and cannot extend forward at all. These straps can be connected from front to back, but the connection piece must be at least 4” above the frame and not to interfere with the A-Arm. Motor cradles are ok and can be welded to the cross member. This Rule will be Enforced. You must run the transmission cross member in the stock location you can weld 2” angle iron no thicker than 3/16”, no longer than 6” to the side of the frame to support the cross member. If you pre-bend your frame do not use angle iron to re-support the bent area. The transmission cross member is the only method my which the transmission may be tied in. Do not attach transmission to dash bar or any other point in the car other than the cross member. If you choose to run an engine mid-plate this can only be attached to the frame by using the straps on the back of the motor. If you have questions on this please call!!!!!! 6. Use rear end of choice, but must be no more than 5 lugs. You can tilt rear end if you wish. Welded or posi-track highly recommended. Back braces are welcome. 7. You must use a radiator and it must be in stock location. 8. All cars must have working brakes. 9. A-arms, ball joints, and tie-rods ends must remain stock. Tie rod tubes may be welded but no added material. Only stock car ball joints and tie rod ends are allowed; no pickup or van tie rod ends. 10. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed. 11. Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell, and it must be properly secured and covered. Only metal tanks may be used. Fuel cell cannot exceed 12”x12”x12” or 7 gallons. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat use to be. No other source of gas inside the car at all. Engine coolers are allowed, however they must be a cooler with an elect. fan, no water/ice barrels or boxes can be used, these coolers cannot be placed to reinforce the car. 12. Transmission coolers are allowed, but must be safe and properly secured. 13. Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and covered. 14. You must have a number in Bright colors on each front door and must have a 15”x15” sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car. Please paint all cars with the same color of paint and the number all in the same color. We want all cars to match as closely as possible.
Car Building
1. NO welding will be allowed on any part of the body or frame. The only welding allowed is in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your team will not run!! 2. All doors must be chained, wired, bolted or welded shut. Driver’s door may be welded inside and outside. All doors may be welded shut with strap no bigger than 3” by 1/8” thick. Tops of the doors may be pinched together and welded but do not add any filler material. 3. **For driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, and you may also have a bar across your dash bar to bars behind the seat across the inside of the front doors only. You can also weld a plate across the driver’s door not to exceed 6 inches past each seam. You may have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be welded or bolted to the roof – no kickers going back or front of the car. You may also weld a steering column to the cage. Back of cage including roll bar can only be 10” behind the back of the driver seat. You may also run a kicker from the door bar down to the floor or frame, do not extend any further forward than the front door seam, between the dash bar and seat bar, on the driver’s side only. **Please reinforce your driver’s door very good, in this type of competition all drivers doors will take some type of hit during the event. We want you to be safe and protected behind your reinforcement.** 4. Bumpers are interchangeable, but must be a stock automobile bumper. Use bumper brackets from car’s stock bumper - no enclosing or boxing frames with bumper brackets or foreign material. No homemade bumpers or bumper brackets. You can weld bumper brackets or towers to the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock towers. You can collapse shocks, and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with ½” bolt or less, and it must be done vertically. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding the bumper skins (chrome to inner liner) is allowed. When welding bumpers, shocks, and brackets - do not add any metal. Weld them solid. We do not want them coming off. No welding bumper to the body in any fashion. Bumper height not to exceed 24” to the bottom of the bumper to the ground. Bumpers must be in stock location. 5. Bumpers may be welded to the end of the frame with no added metal, just welding wire. Front and rear bumpers may have 2 chains or 4 loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed in front of the radiator.
|
|
|
Post by Cody Anno 09 on Sept 2, 2010 17:08:11 GMT -5
6. 2-1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame, MUST go through body mount hole, and you must have a spacer between the body and frame. You may use wire in 2 spots with 4 loops from trunk lid and may go around the frame with the wire. DON’T DO BOTH. Trunk lids may be chained/ wired/welded/ bolted from sheet metal to sheet metal. Chryslers may weld all thread to side of frame but the all thread must be vertical and go up through the deck lid, or they can go through the frame if they so choose. Short Trunk cars – If you run ready bolt through the front body mount they must be slightly bent to make sure they go through the trunk lid. Ready bolt can also be just tin to tin if you choose not to go through or attach to the frame. 7. You can fold hoods or trunk lid over, but 60% of the hood/trunk lid must be factory location. Do not slide your hood or trunk forward or back this would mean that 0% would be in the factory location. This means no beating speaker decks or trunk lids down more than 6” in the first 60% of the trunk. 8. Hood must have at least a 12 inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washer no more than a total of 12 bolts allowed to pinch the hood sheet metal back together. You may cut multiple holes but do not exceed the 12 bolts. You are allowed 8 spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of 4 tie down spots. You may have up to 1” all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame, but must go through the front body mounts. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only, and the hold down bolts cannot exceed 8” in length! You may have plates for hood tie down, not to exceed 5x5x1/4”square or 6” x1/4” round. 9. Body mount bolts can be replaced with 1” bolts, body mounts can be replaced with steel or washers but must be 1” thickness and have the same diameter as stock spacers. Bolts may extend through body and have up to a 5x5x1/4” square or 6”x1/4” round washer on top, washers must be separate. Bolts must be up inside of frame as factory and may have larger washer inside of frame. If you choose to use a body mount hole for you trunk ready bolt this does not have to be up inside frame, the plate can go on the bottom side of the frame. Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid. Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added. Do not add bolts, wire, chain, or cable in any fashion from the body to the frame other than stated in these rules. Chrysler k-member cars can remove the rubber spacers between the frame and k-member and bolt them up tight. Bolts may be replaced with up to ¾” in diameter. All cars, if you choose to leave in the stock rubber pucks you must leave the metal cones inside the rubber puck. You must leave at least a ¾ space if using the factory rubber spacer. Do not devise a way that enables you to suck them down tight. 10. You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal only. Do not cut rust out; weld 2” beyond rust. If your frame is rusted through, call for instructions on how to the fix the rust hole. DO NOT FIX IT WITHOUT CALLING AND EXPECT US TO ALLOW YOU TO RUN IT. 11. Suspension must be stock height. Leaf springs must be stock and made of stock spring material, with a 1”stagger and no springs can be as long as the main leaf. You can only have a total of 7 leaf springs per side no thicker than 3/8" thick. The main leaf must be the top spring in the spring pack and leaf springs must go down from longest to shortest in minimum 1” stagger. You can re-clamp springs, 6 clamps per side with only 4 being homemade. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4”. You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring, you can double the rear springs (they may be tied together in no more than two spots, do not weld them together), or put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other ways except what is listed above. You can bolt, wire, or chain coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them from becoming unbolted. You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8” chain or 4 loops of #9 wires) from rear end to frame in 2 spots on each side, must go around frame, do not bolt the chain to the frame. We are going to allow you to weld the chain to the side of the frame, for your chains from the frame to the rear end, you can weld one link only to the side of the frame if you choose to weld the chain instead of wrapping it around the frame. 12. Rear end control arms can be reinforced. If you reinforce your control arms you must build them starting with a stock set. They maybe shortened or made longer. 13. Steering/suspension must be remain stock. 14. You can run shifter through the floor, and you can have a switch panel. If you are running an electric fuel pump, it must be hooked up to your ignition switch, so when your car shuts off so does the fuel pump. 15. You may alter your steering column to prevent steering loss. 16. You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with 5 -3/8” bolts or less with 1.25” diameter washers. No rolling your fenders and welding them. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the core support do not exceed 4 – 3/8” bolts with 1.25” washers to bolt back to the core support of fender. 17. For safety, all cars must have (2) windshield bars extending from the roof of the car to the firewall/dash, straps cannot be any larger than 3/8"x3". If and only if you remove a part of the firewall/dash you are allowed to connect these two bars. The removed part must be completely removed and must be as wide as the vertical bars. The horizontal bars connecting the two vertical bars cannot be any larger than 3/8"x3" straps. No more than 6" of strap material allowed on the roof and no more than 6" of strap material allowed on the firewall. Do not go over 6" on roof or firewall or you will cut. If the firewall/dash is completely cut out you can weld a strap from the dash sheet metal to the dash safety bar, on either side of the cut out portion. Do not connect the windshield bars to the dash safety bar in any manner. 18. You are allowed 2 spots with 4 loops of wire (no cable or chain) in each window opening and may go to the frame. All #9 wire going through the windows must stay in the passenger compartment. When going through the floor and around the frame it has to go through the flat part of the floor. If you don’t understand please call first. 19. You may run wire from frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This must go around the frame, not bolting it to the frame. Do not pass this wire through the trunk as it would be another body mount, must go under trunk floor. 20. Rewelding of factory frame seems (both top and bottom) from the "A" arms forward is allowed. No welding behind the "A" arms is allowed. ***Do not paint the frames at all, we want to see the welds*** 21. No distributor protectors. 21. No radiator guards.
|
|
|
Post by Cody Anno 09 on Sept 2, 2010 17:09:42 GMT -5
Rules for Trucks
Ultimate Demo Promotions Set of Rules- Trucks Promoted by – UDP Sam Williams – 303-726-8337
Truck Rules
1. ALL RULES WILL BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NOT RUN. 2. Drivers must be 18 years of age. Ages 16-17 must have a NOTARIZED permission slip and a valid driver’s license. 3. The person that signs in as the driver – must be the driver for the event. 4. Driver must wear a seat belt, helmet, FIRE SUIT JACKET. 5. All Drivers and Crew Members must attend the drivers meeting. 6. No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle. This will be the quickest way to be DISQUALIFIED. 7. Any open door or fire will cause disqualification, for that heat. 8. You are given 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that particular truck will be disqualified. 9. No drivers are allowed alcohol - period. If you are wearing a drivers band and drinking any form of Alcohol -YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED. 10. Trucks will be re-inspected before any prize money is paid out. The trucks will be re-inspected by the head judges, Sam Williams only. Everyone else will stay back until trucks are deemed to be legal. 11. There is a $250.00 protest fee, and you must be a driver in the main event to protest another driver’s truck. Driver must have cash in hand directly after the feature in order to protest. If the truck is found to be illegal the truck and driver will be escorted off the grounds and will not receive any prize money. 13. Any complaints that a driver has about another truck prior to the start of the first heat will need to be addressed in the drivers meeting in specifics. If nothing is said, we don’t want to hear about it after the show. 14. Any questions, give us a call: Sam Williams 303-728-4036. If these rules or a phone call to us does not say you can do it THEN DON’T. We can’t stress enough to call first. 15. Judges decisions are FINAL!!!
TRUCK RULES 1. ANY full size 1/2, 3/4, or 1 ton LT Truck, SUV, Suburban, or Van may compete. No compact truck, foreign truck, or passenger cars allowed. 4x4’s may compete with the front drive shaft removed. 2. BUMPERS must be automotive or LT Truck bumpers and bumper brackets in any position may be used front or rear. No aftermarket bumpers, homemade bumpers, or bumper brackets allowed,- they must appear stock. All trucks MUST have bumpers on front and rear. Two 4” wide 1/4” thick straps may be welded vertically from rear bumper to tailgate, weld 5” on bumper, and 5” on tailgate. Two 4” wide, 1/4” thick, 8” long straps may be welded horizontally on front and rear bumpers. Rear bumper welded from bottom of tailgate to the bumper and front bumper welded, from bumper to radiator support. Front and rear bumper may have wire in 4 locations, 4 strands from front bumper to radiator support and rear bumper to tailgate. Bumper brackets and bumper may be welded solid. Bumpers must be stock height, all models may raise front to level with rear, but if it looks too high it is, and it will have to be let down, or not run per judge’s discretion. 3. CAB AND BOX MOUNTS may be removed. Body bolts may be replaced with a MINIMUM 5/8” bolt and a MAXIMUM, of 1” bolts. Four ADDITIONAL bolts must be added from cab to frame, and four bolts from box to frame or a MINIMUM of 8 EXTRA bolts to hold cab and box or body on. Washers 1/4” thick 6”x 6" on top and 3”x 3” on bottom must be added. Washers to hold cab and box to frame may not touch each other. 4. ENGINE and transmission of choice maybe used. Motor mounts may be welded, chained, or cabled and added solid engine mounts okay as long as it is not reinforcing the frame. 5. EXTRA REINFORCEMENTS No wire, sheet metal screws, chains, cables, bolts, or added metal unless specified in rules, JUST WELD IT. 6. FENDERS front and rear may be rolled, welded or bolted with no added metal. pickup rev. 01/08 7. FRAME may not be reinforced, and no filling in holes on frame. The cab maybe welded to the frame and box to the frame and all riveted frame brackets. The very front 8” of frame and very back 8” of frame maybe reinforced no longer than 8” and no taller than the factory frame. No connecting the frame rails to each other with added metal. Frame may be repaired if broken. Use the same thickness of metal as frame to repair or just weld it. If patches are excessive in any way they will be cut at judge’s discretion. 8. HOOD must remain in factory position. The front two hood bolts must go through the front radiator support mount and frame with no spacer, all other hood bolts must be welded to body only. Hood may be welded solid with 3/8” filler rod, or MUST be bolted, or chained in a MINIMUM of 4 locations and a MAXIMUM of 8 locations. A 5”x 5” 1/2” thick washer must be used on top of hood bolts, to keep bolts from pulling through. The bolts must be MINIMUM of 5/8” or MAXIMUM of 1”, (Bolts must not be directly in front of radiator), or MINIMUM 4 chains 3/8” thick. There must be one 12" hole cut into hood for fires and the tin maybe bolted or welded around each hole. 9. RADIATOR must remain in stock position. Radiator blow by tubes must be secured and remain pointing down at all times. No extra cooling allowed for radiators. Original or electric fans okay and ratchet straps may be used to secure radiator. Cooling fans must be covered by hood or removed. Top of radiator support may have one piece of angle iron 2”x 2” 1/4” thick from fender to fender, and two 2”x 2” 1/4” thick angle iron or square tube, from radiator support to top of frame in front of control arm/A-frame. Air conditioning condenser may be welded to front of radiator support. 10. REAR END and front end must not be larger than 1-ton LT Truck. Rear end only maybe reinforced and hybrid rear ends allowed. No reinforcements on front axle. The rear end may be tied to the frame in two locations with 3/8” cable or chain. Leaf spring trucks must have a 2” stager. A MAXIMUM of 11 leaf springs on rear axle and 9 leafs on front axle. A total of 3 spring helper clamps in front of axle and 3-rear of axle per side on front and rear leafs. These clamps must only be a MAXIMUM of 2” wide, 5” long, and ¼” thick. The leaf spring mounts may be welded to the frame front, and rear. Welded or posi-track rear end is highly recommended. 11. SHOCKS may be welded solid. 12. STEERING tie rod ends must be stock, the center section of tie rods may be reinforced. Steering columns maybe welded in and altered to prevent steering loss. All suspension components must remain stock and may not be reinforced. A-arms maybe welded or bolted to the frame to raise front end and prevent them from falling off. 13. TAILGATE must be chained, bolted, or welded securely to box or removed. 14. TIRES any ply with a MAXIMUM of 31” height. Tire inside a tire, tubes, solid tires, implement tread tires, valve stem protectors and grease on tires are all okay. No water or other ballast in tires, studded tires, duel tires on rear, split rims, paddle rims, or reinforced rims. All wheel weights must be removed. 15. WELDING All cab and box seams interior and exterior may be welded. The cab and box maybe welded together, and use a fill material to fill in the gap between the cab and box. Doors and tailgate may be welded with metal no more than 3” wide MAXIMUM. If doors and tailgate are not welded, they must be bolted, or chained, with same size bolts or chains as hood, IN A MINIMUM OF 2 LOCATIONS PER DOOR OR TAILGATE for safety. Tops of doors may be beat down and welded with no added metal. Rust holes or metal tears may be patched. Use a MAXIMUM of 1 layer of stock metal to patch rust or tear use only enough metal to patch hole or tear or just weld it.
|
|
|
Post by Cody Anno 09 on Sept 3, 2010 9:31:23 GMT -5
Re: Ultimate Team Demo- Topeka, KS Dec 4-5 « Reply #46 on: Today at 10:08:35 » Registered 80s Drivers
Ian Adkins IA Cody Anno KS Bill Crawley MO Kurtis Dittmer KS Bix Felska MN Troy Gilges KS Andy Hanson MN Eric Jeffers MO Andy Mildenburg CO Evan Noble KS Matt Shilling IA Gary Shoemaker MO Mel Shoemaker MO Robert Skroch ND Michael Tait CO Jack Teegarden MO Shay Walden ND Bobby Whittaker IL Chuck Wilson MO Jesse Wolbeck MN
Registered Truck Drivers
Rob Baker IA Rob Baker IA Derek Craft MN Artie Clark MO Josh Dewitt KS Andrew Hanson MN Andy Hanson MN Tom Mobley NE Jim Reebe MN Bruno Reebe MN
I will post the Teams and Compacts as soon as they are full.
Thanks, Sam
|
|
|
Post by skip17 on Sept 12, 2010 9:20:15 GMT -5
Team Event is Full !!!!!
Team List
Team JD Green/Black Brian Cyr MN Lance Pritchett MN Bob Meier MN Mike Gebro MN
Team Maroon & Black Shay Walden ND Dukey Skroch ND Andy Hanson MN Kurtis Dettmer KS
Team Camoflauge Jerod Star SD Greg King SD Joel Harris IA ?
Team Black & White David Gaukel IA Dylan Lane NE ? ?
Team Dark Green - Mopar Express Tony Atchinson IA Calvin Atchinson IA J.M. McKim IA Kenny Carr IA
Team Silver & Black Trent Conkle KS Brandon Conkle KS Rhett Glue KS ?
Team Dark Blue Jim Johnson KS Kenny Gunn KS Hugh Griggs KS ?
Team Black Mac Cole KS Matt Topper KS Derek Genz WI Kyle Genz WI
Team Brown Dusty Gilges IL Bobby Whittaker IL Nick Erlacher KS Richard Neis KS
Team Grey Kirk Amos MO Chad Markley KS Kyle Guenther KS ?
Team Red & Silver Justin Wirsig MO Jamie Frost KS Steve Trieb KS Shann Trieb KS
Team Blue/Black Justin Montgomery KS Jeremiah Faulkner KS Jesse Levin KS Derek Funk KS
Team Gold Jack Teegarden MO Jeff Chandler KS Chris DeMeranville KS ?
Team Blue/Yellow Andy Robinson IA Mike Wurth IA Kenny Money IA Bob Brittain IA
Team Orange/Black Mike Mowery IL Tom Mowery IL Eric Beret IL Nick Breed IL
Team Red/Black Todd Cyr KS Beau Derasseau KS John Hatesohl KS Randy Senters KS
I am sure some of these names will change but we will make changes to this list as we go.
|
|
|
Post by rookie101 on Sept 13, 2010 7:58:29 GMT -5
Alot of KS guys...should be alot of fun to watch!!
|
|
|
Post by skip17 on Sept 13, 2010 10:46:07 GMT -5
That truck heat is gonna be good ;D
|
|
|
Post by KG on Sept 17, 2010 20:34:33 GMT -5
Registration Update as of today Spots Remaining Teams - 0 Class Full 80s - 0 Class Full Trucks - 2 Rob Baker has decided to run on a team which has left two truck spots open Compacts - 8 Remaining If you would like to register a truck or compact click on the link below: www.regonline.com/register/checkin.aspx?EventId=889587Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks, Sam 303-726-8337
|
|
|
Post by skip17 on Sept 20, 2010 0:12:05 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by Cody Anno 09 on Oct 28, 2010 10:39:05 GMT -5
A little over a month away.
|
|