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HPT 5-6
Feb 23, 2012 9:17:09 GMT -5
Post by skip17 on Feb 23, 2012 9:17:09 GMT -5
DEMO DERBY MAY 6 2012 HEARTLAND PARK TOPEKA LOCATIONHEARTLAND PARK DIRT TRACK DERBY STARTS AT PM 2:30 ADMISSION FEE ADULT $15.00 12AND UNDER $5.00 PIT PASSES $20.00 ENTRY FEE $50.00 PITS OPEN AT 11:30PM INSPECTIONS START AT 12:30PM FINAL INSPECTIONS 2:00PM DERBY STARTS AT 2:30 Here are the payouts: Payouts are GUARANTEED!! FWD COMPACTS 1st =$600 2nd = $300 3rd = $100 4th = $50 80s AND NEWER 1st = $1500 2nd = $700 3rd = $300 4th = $200 5th = $100 TRUCKS 1st = $800 2nd = $400 3rd = $200 4th = $100 COMPACTS 1st = $1000 2nd = $500 3rd = $250 4th = $100 THESE ARE THE CLASSES WE WILL BE RUNNING AT BOTH SHOWS AT HPT FOR MORE INFO OR RULES CALL DAREN MOORE AT (620-342-9066) or(620-366-2823) Read more: www.kansasdemoderby.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=events&action=display&thread=1280#ixzz1nDOH7iqz
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HPT 5-6
Feb 23, 2012 9:19:10 GMT -5
Post by skip17 on Feb 23, 2012 9:19:10 GMT -5
GENERAL RULES **CARS AND TRUCKS MAY HAVE A DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTER...CAN NOT TOUCH THE DASH BAR AT ANY TIME OR WILL BE DISQUALIFIED.
1) IF CAR DOES NOT PASS INSPECTION AND YOU WILL NOT FIX CAR TO PASS INSPECTION, THERE WILL BE NO REFUNDS OF ENTRY FEES. 2) ALL RULES WILL BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NOT RUN. 3) DRIVER MUST BE ATLEAST 16 YEARS OF AGE AND HAVE DRIVERS LICENSE. IF 16-18 YEARS MUST HAVE NOTARIZED PARENT RELEASE FORM. 4) DRIVER MUST WEAR HELMET AND SEAT BELT AT ALL TIMES. 5) DO NOT HIT DRIVERS’ DOOR. IF IT LOOKS INTENTIONAL, YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED. IF YOU USE YOUR DRIVER’S DOOR AS A SHIELD YOU MAY BE DISQUALIFIED. 6) YOU WILL BE GIVEN ONE MINUTE FOR AN AGGRESSIVE HIT, AND ONE MINUTE FOR RESTARTS OR HUNG UP. NO ALCOHOL IN THE PITS. 7) AFTER DERBY-TOP 5 CARS WINNING PRIZE MONEY WILL BE REINSPECTED BEFORE ANY CARS/DRIVERS LEAVE THE ARENA. DRIVERS AND OFFICIALS ONLY ALLOWED IN ARENA DURING AND AFTER DERBY. IF PIT PEOPLE, FAMILY, OR FANS ENTER ARENA, DRIVER OF THAT CAR WILL BE DISQUALIFIED. ABSOLUTELY NO WARNINGS! IF SOMETHING ILLEGAL IS FOUND, ALL MONEY AND ENTRIES WILL BE FORFEITED. THERE WILL BE NO EXCEPTIONS. SO IF IT’S NOT CAUGHT IN FIRST INSPECTION, AND WE FIND IT AFTER OR YOU ADDED SOMETHING AFTER THE HEAT, YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED. ALL JUDGES DECISIONS WILL BE FINAL.
Compact 106"rwd 110"fwd Car Preparation THIS SET OF RULES WILL BE FOLLOWED FOR ALL CLASS NO OVER BUILT CARS WILL RUN 1. No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames except where welding is specifically allowed in these rules. 2. All cars and trucks must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules. 3. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby. 4. Tires no bigger than 15 inch, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or doubled tires are ok – we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims. 5. Use rear end of choice, but must be no more than 5 lugs. You can tilt rear end if you wish. Welded or posi-track highly recommended. Back braces are welcome. 6. You must use a radiator and it must be in stock location. 7. All cars must have working brakes. 8. A-arms, ball joints, and tie-rods ends must remain stock. Tie rod tubes may be welded but no added material. Only stock car ball joints and tie rod ends are allowed. 9. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed. 10. Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell, and it must be properly secured and covered. Only metal tanks may be used. Fuel cell cannot exceed 12â€x12â€x12†or 7 gallons. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat use to be. No other source of gas inside the car at all. Engine coolers are allowed, however they must be a cooler with an elect. fan, no water/ice barrels or boxes can be used, these coolers cannot be placed to reinforce the car. 11. Transmission coolers are allowed, but must be safe and properly secured. 12. Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and covered. 13. You must have a number in Bright colors on each front door and must have a 15â€x15†sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car. Please paint all cars with the same color of paint and the number all in the same color. We want all cars to match as closely as possible.
Car Building Compact 106"
1. NO welding will be allowed on any part of the body or frame. The only welding allowed is in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you will not run!! NO OVER BUILT HARD CARS ALLOWED MUST BE TO THE RULES 2. All doors must be chained, wired, bolted or welded shut. Driver’s door may be welded inside and outside. All doors may be welded shut with strap no bigger than 3†by 1/8†thick. Tops of the doors may be pinched together and welded but do not add any filler material. 3. **For driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, and you may also have a bar across your dash bar to bars behind the seat across the inside of the front doors only. You can also weld a plate across the driver’s door not to exceed 6 inches past each seam. You may have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be welded or bolted to the roof – no kickers going back or front of the car. You may also weld a steering column to the cage. Back of cage including roll bar can only be 10†behind the back of the driver seat. You may also run a kicker from the door bar down to the floor or frame, do not extend any further forward than the front door seam, between the dash bar and seat bar, on the driver’s side only. **Please reinforce your driver’s door very good, in this type of competition all drivers doors will take some type of hit during the event. We want you to be safe and protected behind your reinforcement.** 4. Bumpers are interchangeable, but must be a stock automobile bumper. Use bumper brackets from car’s stock bumper - no enclosing or boxing frames with bumper brackets or foreign material. No homemade bumpers or bumper brackets. You can weld bumper brackets or towers to the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock towers. You can collapse shocks, and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with ½†bolt or less, and it must be done vertically. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding the bumper skins (chrome to inner liner) is allowed. When welding bumpers, shocks, and brackets - do not add any metal. Weld them solid. We do not want them coming off. No welding bumper to the body in any fashion. Bumper height not to exceed 24†to the bottom of the bumper to the ground. Bumpers must be in stock location. 5. Bumpers may be welded to the end of the frame with no added metal, just welding wire. Front and rear bumpers may have 2 chains or 4 loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed in front of the radiator.
6. 2-1†All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame, MUST go through body mount hole, and you must have a spacer between the body and frame. You may use wire in 2 spots with 4 loops from trunk lid and may go around the frame with the wire. DON’T DO BOTH. Trunk lids may be chained/ wired/welded/ bolted from sheet metal to sheet metal. Chryslers may weld all thread to side of frame but the all thread must be vertical and go up through the deck lid, or they can go through the frame if they so choose. Short Trunk cars – If you run ready bolt through the front body mount they must be slightly bent to make sure they go through the trunk lid. Ready bolt can also be just tin to tin if you choose not to go through or attach to the frame. 7. You can fold hoods or trunk lid over. 8. Hood must have at least a 12 inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be bolted back together with 3/8†or less bolts and 1.25†diameter washer no more than a total of 12 bolts allowed to pinch the hood sheet metal back together. You may cut multiple holes but do not exceed the 12 bolts. You are allowed 8 spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of 4 tie down spots. You may have up to 1†all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame, but must go through the front body mounts. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only, and the hold down bolts cannot exceed 8†in length! You may have plates for hood tie down, not to exceed 5x5x1/4â€square or 6†x1/4†round. 9. Body mount bolts can be replaced with 1†bolts, body mounts can be replaced with steel or washers but must be 1†thickness and have the same diameter as stock spacers. Bolts may extend through body and have up to a 5x5x1/4†square or 6â€x1/4†round washer on top, washers must be separate. Bolts must be up inside of frame as factory and may have larger washer inside of frame. If you choose to use a body mount hole for you trunk ready bolt this does not have to be up inside frame, the plate can go on the bottom side of the frame. Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid. Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added. Do not add bolts, wire, chain, or cable in any fashion from the body to the frame other than stated in these rules. Chrysler k-member cars can remove the rubber spacers between the frame and k-member and bolt them up tight. Bolts may be replaced with up to ¾†in diameter. All cars, if you choose to leave in the stock rubber pucks you must leave the metal cones inside the rubber puck. You must leave at least a ¾ space if using the factory rubber spacer. Do not devise a way that enables you to suck them down tight. 10. You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal only. Do not cut rust out; weld 2†beyond rust. If your frame is rusted through, call for instructions on how to the fix the rust hole. DO NOT FIX IT WITHOUT CALLING AND EXPECT US TO ALLOW YOU TO RUN IT. 11. Suspension must be stock height. Leaf springs must be stock and made of stock spring material, with a 1â€stagger and no springs can be as long as the main leaf. You can only have a total of 7 leaf springs per side no thicker than 3/8" thick. The main leaf must be the top spring in the spring pack and leaf springs must go down from longest to shortest in minimum 1†stagger. You can re-clamp springs, 6 clamps per side with only 4 being homemade. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4â€. You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring, you can double the rear springs (they may be tied together in no more than two spots, do not weld them together), or put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other ways except what is listed above. You can bolt, wire, or chain coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them from becoming unbolted. You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8†chain or 4 loops of #9 wires) from rear end to frame in 2 spots on each side, must go around frame, do not bolt the chain to the frame. We are going to allow you to weld the chain to the side of the frame, for your chains from the frame to the rear end, you can weld one link only to the side of the frame if you choose to weld the chain instead of wrapping it around the frame. 12. Rear end control arms can be reinforced. If you reinforce your control arms you must build them starting with a stock set. They maybe shortened or made longer. 13. Steering/suspension must be remain stock. 14. You can run shifter through the floor, and you can have a switch panel. If you are running an electric fuel pump, it must be hooked up to your ignition switch, so when your car shuts off so does the fuel pump. 15. You may alter your steering column to prevent steering loss. 16. You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with 5 -3/8†bolts or less with 1.25†diameter washers. No rolling your fenders and welding them. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the core support do not exceed 4 – 3/8†bolts with 1.25†washers to bolt back to the core support of fender. 17. For safety, all cars must have (2) windshield bars extending from the roof of the car to the firewall/dash, straps cannot be any larger than 3/8"x3". If and only if you remove a part of the firewall/dash you are allowed to connect these two bars. The removed part must be completely removed and must be as wide as the vertical bars. The horizontal bars connecting the two vertical bars cannot be any larger than 3/8"x3" straps. No more than 6" of strap material allowed on the roof and no more than 6" of strap material allowed on the firewall. Do not go over 6" on roof or firewall or you will cut. If the firewall/dash is completely cut out you can weld a strap from the dash sheet metal to the dash safety bar, on either side of the cut out portion. Do not connect the windshield bars to the dash safety bar in any manner. 18. You are allowed 2 spots with 4 loops of wire (no cable or chain) in each window opening and may go to the frame. All #9 wire going through the windows must stay in the passenger compartment. When going through the floor and around the frame it has to go through the flat part of the floor. If you don’t understand please call first. 19. You may run wire from frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This must go around the frame, not bolting it to the frame. Do not pass this wire through the trunk as it would be another body mount, must go under trunk floor. 20. Rewelding of factory frame seems (both top and bottom) from the "A" arms forward is allowed. No welding behind the "A" arms is allowed. ***Do not paint the frames at all, we want to see the welds*** 21. No radiator guards 22. Use motor and tranny of choice, motor must be in stock location. You may chain or weld motor and tranny to keep in place, but don’t strategically strengthen the frame. You may attached a strap on all four corners of engine going down to the frame, this strap may be welded directly to the top or side of the frame only, not to exceed 3/8†thick by 2†wide strap. The straps on the front of the motor cannot extend on the frame any more than 2†past the front of the head and cannot extend backwards at all. The straps on the rear of the motor cannot extend back on the frame any more than 2†past the back of the head and cannot extend forward at all. These straps can be connected from front to back, but the connection piece must be at least 4†above the frame and not to interfere with the A-Arm. Motor cradles are ok and can be welded to the cross member. This Rule will be Enforced. You must run the transmission cross member in the stock location you can weld 2†angle iron no thicker than 3/16â€, no longer than 6†to the side of the frame to support the cross member. If you pre-bend your frame do not use angle iron to re-support the bent area. The transmission cross member is the only method my which the transmission may be tied in. Do not attach transmission to dash bar or any other point in the car other than the cross member. If you choose to run an engine mid-plate this can only be attached to the frame by using the straps on the back of the motor. If you have questions on this please call!!!!!!
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HPT 5-6
Feb 23, 2012 9:20:17 GMT -5
Post by skip17 on Feb 23, 2012 9:20:17 GMT -5
1980 AND NEWER RULES
1980 and newer Ford and Chrysler cars and station wagons only. No 2003 and newer Ford vehicle or frames unless the stock engine cradle and suspension is used. No hearses, ambulances, limos, vans, minivans, SUV’s, trucks, or any other vehicle considered a “truckâ€. 1979 and newer GM cars will be allowed into this class. 1977 and 78 Chevy Impalas and Caprices will also be allowed. Used or Pre-ran cars may fix ripped, torn, bent, or twisted frames. The site in need of repair must be obvious to the judges. Used cars will be allowed 16†of repair plate per frame rail (4â€wide x 3/16†thick). The plate may be as long as you want, but you only have 16†total per frame rail. So you can put one 16â€x4†plate on each hump and be done or you may put two 4â€x4†plates on the front and a 8â€x4†plate on the hump (per frame rail). If you don’t understand this, please call. All excess plates and welds will be cut off or if it’s excessive, you will not run. Any plate longer than 4†must have a ½†hole drilled in it to prove thickness and that it is the only plate welded in that site. Cage Bars: For the driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost and it can be in an “X†shape if desired, but may not touch, connect, or be welded to the frame. It also must be no more than 6†away from the back of the driver’s seat. You may also weld in a “dash bar†where the factory dashboard was located. You are only allowed ONE dash bar! This bar must be at minimum 6†away from any other sheet metal on the firewall or any engine component or distributor protector before the show. You may also weld door bars vertically from the dash bar to the bar between the doorposts along the inside of both the drivers and passenger side doors. These bars may not be longer than 60â€, so your seat bar must be within the length of this bar. You may also weld in four down bars from the bars along the doors down to the floorpan or top of the frame rail to protect the drivers feet/legs or a battery if it’s located on the passenger floorboard. These down bars must be within the door seams and must be straight up and down, not angled. If you run a halo bar in the back, this may go to the floor sheet metal/frame and will count as your two back down bars. These bars cannot be connected to any body bolt or body bolt washer and must be at least 4†away from any body bolt or washer. None of the bars listed may be larger than 8†in diameter except the down bars and they may not be wider than 6â€. Halo or Roll Bars: You may weld a roll bar to the bar behind the drivers seat, but this bar must be placed in the car vertically. It may be welded to the the rear driver’s cage bar. There may be three bolts throughthe top crossover bar through the roof sheet metal. It may not be welded to the roof. If you have your halo bar welded to the top of the frame, this counts as your two rear “down bars†as stated above. Drivers Door: Please reinforce your drivers door very good. You will in all likelihood take at least one shot in the door, so make it safe! The drivers door must be welded shut for safety. You may weld both the inner and outer door seams solid. We also recommend that you reinforce the door skin. You may weld a plate across the door, but it may not extend more than 6†past the front and rear door seem. You may also place a pipe inside the drivers door, but it also cannot extend more then 6†past the front and rear door seem. No grader blades allowed on the outside of the door. Windshield Bars: A minimum of two steel straps or bars (not to exceed 2â€) must be located in the windshield area. They may be welded or bolted into place. If welded, they may have only 6†of weld total at the top and 6†of weld at the bottom and must attach to sheet metal only. They may not be connected or welded to the hood. They may not act to strategically strengthen the car or they will have to be cut/ altered as the officials see fit. Battery: Must be re-located to the interior of the passenger compartment and we recommend the passenger side floor board. The battery or batteries must be in a solid container and covered. They also must be securely attached to the floorboard of the vehicle or cage, not to the frame in any way. Gas Tanks and Gas Tank Protectors: No plastic gas cans unless it is a plastic or urethane “fuel cellâ€, in which case it must be placed inside a metal container. Steel boat tanks are recommended. 10 gallon maximum for any gas tank. Gas tanks must be securely fastened inside the passenger compartment and in the rear seat area. They must be fastened to the floor, rear seat area, or rear cage bar. You will be allowed a gas tank protector that may extend backwards from the rear cage bar towards the rear seat area. It may not be larger than 24â€x6†at the back and must be at least 1†away from the sheet metal/package tray on fresh cars. Rear seat sheet metal may not be beat back or moved. We must be able to run our hand between the rear seat sheet meal and the gas tank protector. The bars may run straight back or angle in, but the rear bar may be no wider than 24†and none of this apparatus may touch any sheet metal or the frame in any way. If it is excessive and the judges deem that this apparatus will be or become an advantage to the car, it will not be allowed. We want this to actually protect the gas tank and that is it! The gas tank itself also may not act as any sort of reinforcement. The tank, if homemade, may not be wider than 24â€. If you have modified your upper or lower control arm brackets to fit your rearend, and these new brackets will act to strengthen the frame along with your gas tank protector, you will have to cut your gas tank protector. Oil and Transmission Coolers: Engine Oil and Transmission Oil coolers are allowed. You must use high pressure hydraulic lines and fittings. Frame and Body Mounts: On the 1979 and newer GM cars, you may weld one plate on the outside only of the rear humps over the rear end. This plate may not exceed 6†wide, 22†long, and ¼†thick. There also must be three ½†holes drilled in these plates to prove the thickness. You must also follow the frame rails with these plates. If you have a used GM car, the above repair plate rule will still apply and this plate will not count as your repair plates, but you will only be allowed 12â€x4†of plate to use to make your repairs. No frame/body swaps with older cars. No added metal to the car or body is allowed other than what is set forth in the rules to follow. Plain and simple, nothing is to be added to the inside or outside of the frame other than what is allowed. Absolutely no painting, undercoating, grease, “silicone and dirt tricks†on the frame. There is also absolutely no reason for there to be any metal located INSIDE the frame. Any attempt to obscure the frame holes to hinder the inspection of the inside of the frame will be considered grounds for disqualification. Scopes will be used! As for the re-shaping of the stock frame, this is ONLY what will be allowed. You may re-shape the frame from the rear humps backwards towards the rear bumper. This means where the frame begins to turnupward just behind the lower trailing arms mounts and rear seat back body bolt, you may re-shape your frame. This may include beating the sides in or “squaring†the edges. You may re-weld the top and bottom factory frame seams from the cross-member forward (unless you have moved your cross member back, this will be allowed from where the factory cross-member was located. ½†wide weld bead maximum. Vertical pinch welds on Chrysler cars may be folded and welded. This will allow you to properly weld any factory seam welds, and tilt or “pitch†your frame. You may repair rust, but read carefully. If the car is fresh, the rust must be cut out and the patch must fit inside the hole cut out. The plate may not overlap and MUST be the same thickness as the original frame metal. There must be a ½†hole drilled in this frame repair plate to prove its thickness. Cutting and/or pre-notching of the frame is allowed, but you may not re-weld the frame rails where it is notched or cut. No adding or subtracting body mounts. You may not move any body mounts either as to shorten the frame rail. If you move a body mount hole and your car cannot be made right, you will not run. Chrysler sufframe cars may add two additional body bolts (one per side) in the rear seat/trunk area. These bolts may not be larger than ½†diameter and must use regular ½†washers. If you try to use a larger washer, you will have to remove it all together and you will not be allowed to replace it. These to bolts may to through the floor sheet metal down through the bottom of the sub-frame. Body mount bolts may be replaced with up to ¾†bolts. There must be at least a 1†space between the body and frame. Rubber bushings may be replaced with other spacers, but must be at least 1†thick and the same diameter as the original bushing. Spacers may be welded to the body, but not the frame. You may use original rubber body “pucksâ€, but you must leave the metal inserts in to maintain the 1†spacing. Do not devise a way to suck the body down tight to the frame. Maximum 5†body mount washers allowed on the top of the body bolts inside the passenger compartment and trunk. Sub-frame cars may have washers up to 2†larger than the factory body mount hole (for example: if the hole is 4â€, the use of an 8†washer is permitted). These washers may not be welded to the floor pans or trunk floor. Washers inside the frame must be in stock location and may be 2†larger than the original frame hole. Chrysler K-frame cars can remove the rubber spacers between the frame and the K-member and bolt them up tight. Bolts may be replaced with up to ¾†diameter bolts. Radiator support (or commonly called the Core Support) must remain in stock location. The radiator support mount bushings may be removed completely. The radiator support may contact the frame but must not be welded to it. The two radiator mount bolts may be up to 1â€diameter. These two bolts may be welded to the frame. These two bolts may extend straight down through to the bottom side of the frame. No angling back to “A†frames to form a “kickerâ€. These two bolts may extend up next to the radiator support, through to the top of the hood, and be used as two hood hold down bolts. These two bolts may be welded to the radiator support. These two bolts may be welded to the frame if they do not go down through the frame. Thicker (taller) than stock spacers are allowed between the radiator support and the frame. Spacers may be welded to frame or the support, not both. No bolts allowed in front of radiator. #9 Wire (four loops maximum) or cable (one loop of 3/8â€) from driver side frame rail, across to the passenger side frame rail, is allowed. If used, it must be located above and behind the rear axle housing. No welding. You are allowed 2 spots of #9 wire, no more than four wires thick, from roof sheet metal only to frame. You may weld in a standard ¾†washer on the roof sheet metal to keep the wire from ripping the metal. You must run the transmission cross member in the stock location. You can weld 2†angle iron no thicker than 3/16â€, and no longer than 6†to the side of the frame to support the cross member. If you pre-bend your frame, you may not use this angle iron to reinforce your bend. The transmission cross member is the only way a transmission may be tied in. Do not attach transmission to dash bar or any other point that is not the cross member. You must use a factory made car cross member. No homemade cross members
Body: Bodies must remain stock. No re-welding of factory seams inside the engine compartment, inside the passenger compartment, inside the trunk compartment, on the underside of the body, under the hood or trunk lid. No added bolts or screws to any body seams. No added metal anywhere on the body of the car because of “rustâ€. If the body is rusty, we must be able to see the rusted areas that have been fixed. Bodies will be drilled or cut open for inspection if needed as determined by the officials. Hoods must open for inspection. Hoods must remain in the stock location and position. Bending down, or bending up, excess hood in front of radiator support allowed. Other than that bend, hoods must remain flat. Hoods must have a minimum of two 12†holes for fire control. Holes cut in hood for fire control, or exhaust may be bolted (not welded) back together with up to eight 3/8†bolts (1†washers maximum) per hole. Hoods must be either chained or bolted shut. Hoods may have no more than ten 3/8†bolts (1†washer max) fastening inner/outer hood sheet metal together on hood itself. Hood bolts or washers may not be placed as to create any reinforcement. If hood is bolted shut: A minimum of four bolts ¾†diameter must be used. A maximum of six bolts (with the front two 1†radiator support bolts counting towards your six) allowed to hold your hood down. The factory hood hinges do not count as a hood hold down. Only the front two radiator support bolts may go down through the hood to the frame. The other four bolts, if used, must be sheet metal to sheet metal only. No bolts to be placed in front of radiator as protection. Washers for the topside of the hood may not exceed 5†square and 1/4†thick. The hood “washers†may be welded to the top of the hood. 5†square “washers†may also be welded to the inner fenders at the corners (fender to radiator support and fender to the fire wall or cowl) below the hood. Bolts may then be welded to these “washers†to hold the hood. 1â€1/2 Angle Iron, no more than 6†long welded to hood & fender/bolted together may be counted same as other hood bolts. If the hood is chained shut: A minimum of four spots of 1/4†chain must be used. A maximum of up to eight spots of 3/8†chain may be used. The use of 5†square “washers†is allowed as above. Fenders may be cut for a larger wheel well opening. Fenders may be bolted back together (with no welding) with up to eight 3/8†bolts (1†diameter washers maximum) per wheel well opening. Excess front fender in front of radiator support may be cut, folded over, and bolted (not welded) back together. Four 3/8†bolts (1†washers) allowed per fender for this. Doors must be chained, wired, bolted, or welded (exterior seams only) shut. You may weld the door seams and trunk lid solid. Chain must be a minimum of 1/4â€, wire must be a minimum of two loops, bolts must be a minimum of 3/8â€, and weld must be 4†on a minimum of two spots per door seam. No chain, wire, or bolts allowed to go to or around frame or cage. 3†wide by 1/8†strap maximum allowed to weld over the exterior door seams. You may also have one loop of #9 wire per window opening sheet metal to sheet metal no more than four wires thick. Trunk lids and station wagon tailgates may be chained, wired, bolted, or welded shut the same as the doors. Any two methods are allowed to fasten the trunk lid or tailgate. No method may go to or around the frame or rear bumper unless specified in these rules. Trunk lid may be “tucked†down inside the trunk compartment. Trunk lid may not be welded to the trunk floor pan. Two bolts (maximum 1†diameter) are allowed in the trunk from the bottom of the trunk pan up through the top of the trunk lid. These two bolts are allowed to go down through the top side of the frame only in the rear body mount holes. The bolt must be cut off flush with the bottom of the nut inside the frame. If the bolt sticks down through the bottom of the frame, it will have to be cut before an inspection will be done. If you choose not to run them through the body bolt hole, they may welded to the outside of the frame. These bolts will have to be welded to the side of the frame rail in a straight up and down manner. The use of 5†washers is allowed on the trunk lid the same as the hood. These two bolts must be cut flush with the top of the nuts. These two bolts are the only bolts allowed to hold the trunk lid down. If you beat your speaker deck and trunk lid down more than 2â€, you must have a 12†inspection hole cut in the top of the trunk lid or floor board. Pre-forming or pre-bending the body sheet metal is allowed. It may be cut to shape it, but not allowed to re-weld or bolt back together (except for the front edge of the front fenders, wheel well radius, and hood holes). . Station wagon tail gates may be lowered, then chained, wired, bolted, or welded shut. No more than ten 3/8 bolts (1†washer max) may be used to bolt inner/outer trunk lid sheet metal together. If back bumper has been removed, Station Wagon gates maybe lowered & bolted or welded to back bumper brackets or shocks.Tops of doors, and areas that had moving windows, may be pinched together and welded. Weld bead only, no plates or other material allowed. Inspectors must be able to see down into the body. The re-welding of the doorpost or pillar, to the floor sheet metal is allowed on both the driver side and passenger side. No added metal The use of fabricated parts such as steering columns, fuel pedals, brake pedals, transmission shifters, seat brackets, battery boxes, fuel tanks (10gal max), and coolers allowed. Seat, battery, fuel tank, and cooler brackets must be welded to, or bolted to, the floor sheet metal. No chain, wire, or rubber type straps allowed to fasten these items. The seat, battery, fuel tank, and coolers must be secure. Steering column brackets and seat brackets may come in contact with, and be attached to these bars. No bracket may extend in front of the dash bar (other than steering column bracket). No bracket may extend past the rear of the seat bar except the gas tank bracket and protector. Brackets in the front seat area must be welded to, or bolted to, floor sheet metal only. Brackets in the front seat area may not be attached to the body mount washers. Brackets in the back seat area must be welded to, or bolted to, the floor sheet metal only. Bolts in the back seat area may not go through, or around, the frame or sub-frame. Brackets for the front seat area, and brackets for the back seat area, must be completely separate. One post or pillar is allowed in the rear window area. 2†x 2†square, or 2†round maximum size allowed. This post or pillar must mount to the back edge of the roof and extend down to the front edge of the original trunk lid seam on the body. One 5†x 5†x ¼†maximum size plate allowed at the top and one plate allowed at the bottom. These plates must be mounted to sheet metal only. This must be ONE bar and must remain straight. No looping or making a U-shaped bar. It’s one straight bar, or no bar. Remove all rear “decking†in station wagons. Suspension and Steering: YOU MAY CONVERT A WATTS LINK FORD TO A STANDARD GM REAREND IN THE FOLLOWING WAY: USE THE TRAILING ARM BRACKETS OFF AN OLDER FORD OR METAL OF THE SAME SIZE AND THICKNESS. NO POSITIONING OF THE BRACKETS TO STRENGTHEN THE FRONT DOWNLEG OF THE REAR HUMP. YOU MAY CUT OUT THE COIL SPRING FRAME TRAY FROM AN EARLIER YEAR FORD AND WELD IT IN THE NEWER FORD. IF YOU CHOOSE TO MANUFACTURE A SYSTEM FOR THE UPPER BRACKETS PLEASE CALL AHEAD. ONE PASS ONLY, 1/2†MAXIMUM. NO STRONGER THAN STOCK. You may not replace a ford package tray with a GM package tray, or vice versa. The package tray must be stock for that model of vehicle. Leaf spring packs may not have more than 7 leafs and must have 2†stagger in the front of the axle and the 2†in back of the axle. You may add 4 spring clamps per side, but not all four may be on either side of the axle. This means you may have two in front and two in rear, or one in front and three in rear. The clamps may not be larger than 5â€x2â€x1/4†and may have two ½†bolts holding them together. Front and rear factory leaf spring brackets, on Chrysler cars, may be welded to the floor brackets, and or sub-frame brackets. No leaf springs under non-leaf cars allowed. All shackles must be factory car shackles. No homemade shackles. Absolutely no welding allowed anywhere on the leaf springs or clamps. If your rearend is chained tight and down too low, you will be made to change it. The head judge will make the final decision on rear body height. The interchange of front spindles, rotors, and upper A-arms allowed (except for 2003 and newer Fords). The parts must not be reinforced or altered and must be considered OEM car, not truck or SUV. Only a minimum of fabrication is allowed to do this. The A-arm mounts, if needed, may not strengthen the frame, or be stronger than what is considered stock. You may reinforce your tie rods. You may weld or bolt your front A-arms down to the frame. If you bolt them, you may use one ¾†bolt on each side. If you weld them, you may have 2†of weld on the top of the frame in front of the A-arm and 2†behind. This weld cannot be to the vertical sides of the frame or act to strengthen the frame in any way or will be cut. This should allow you a 2â€x2†plate from the top of the frame rail to the A-arm both front and back to weld it down.Any rear axle assembly may be used as long as it is a factory five lug set up. No floater-type rearends. Rear axle braces are also allowed, but must not be any closer than 4†from the frame on fresh cars. This distance will be judged differently on used cars. There must be at least a 2†gap on used cars minimum from the frame rails to the axle tubes or bracing as long as the humps are “kinked†and this small of a gap was unavoidable. If the hump has been stretched can into original position and plated/repaired, the 4†gap is then required. The head judge will have the final call on this gap. This measurement is from the axle tube straight back and upwards towards the rear frame rail. Factory rear control arms on coil sprung cars may be lengthened or shortened. Only a minimum of reinforcing is allowed. “Boxing†of rear control arms, allowed. Double coil springs are allowed, (one coil spring turned inside a second coil spring). Coil springs may be wired, welded, or cabled in on top or bottom. Only one place is allowed to hold coil spring in. Air shock lines must be cut. You are allowed two chains or cable or wire total (one on each side of the center section/pinion of the rear axle) around axle housing to frame or body. May not be welded or bolted to frame or body, but just looped around it. It must be looped AROUND the rear frame, not bolted through the frame creating a pin. Altered or fabricated steering columns allowed. Tires: We do not want flats. No bigger than 15†rims, no spit rims, no studded tires on driven wheels. No rim reinforcements. Wheels may have after market centers welded in, but no larger than 6†wheel centers. No spikes, paddles, or other material to be welded inside or to the rim. No liquid filled tires allowed. Rim screws allowed, but only on the inside of the wheel. Implement tread, forklift type, foam filled, urethane, solid, and double tires are allowed. Valve stem protection is allowed. Any ply allowed. Bumpers: Any car bumper allowed on any car. Bumpers may be cut. Bumpers may be chained, bolted, or welded on. Bumpers may be welded to the brackets, and brackets may be welded to the frame. Bumpers may be welded directly to the frame. Brackets may be cut. Use only factory brackets. No homemade brackets will be allowed. No bracket or shock may extend rearward more than 14 inches from the rear of bumper mounting face. This is measured at the factory mount surface. You may weld your bracket on the outside or run the shock inside the frame (not both) no farther than 14†back from the bumper. All excess bracket must be cut off at that point. All shocks inside the frame may have a ½†bolt run through it and drilled all the way through the fame rail side to side. You may not weld the nut or bolt to the frame. Nothing may extend back past this 14†point inside or outside the frame. All brackets must make contact with the bumper. No extra steel or other material allowed as a bumper bracket. You may use either the factory brackets that came with the bumper, or you may use the factory brackets that came with the car, not both. Bumpers may have seams welded. You may reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper. The bumper must start stock and may have metal put inside for reinforcement. Bumper chrome may be smashed down and welded to inner bumper support. Bumpers may be mounted upside down. Rear car bumpers allowed on the front. Front car bumpers allowed on the rear. Rear bumper brackets may only be used on the rear of the car. Front bumper brackets may only be used on the front of the car. You also may NOT take a stock bumper and re-shape it and then load it. An example would be taking a steel Ford Crown Victoria bumper and re-working it into a “pointy†Chrysler look-alike. If it’s a Ford bumper, it needs to remain a Ford Bumper. Just put your steel on the inside. No homemade bumpers allowed. Rear Bumpers, 4 chains or 4, 2†wide straps from rear bumper to car body allowed. No more than 5†of weld on straps on body and 5†of weld on bumpers. Bumpers must be smooth at the edges. Front Bumpers will be allowed two plates not to exceed 2†wide x ¼ thick and 4†long. These plates are to be welded on the top of the bumper and may extend backwards along the top of the frame. They may also be welded on the side of the frame if you choose to. The plates must lay flat against the frame and may be welded along the entire outside edge of the plate. This is to help you keep your bumper on during the show. It may not act as a gusset or any strengthening. It is to keep your bumper in place…That is it! If you would rather, you may use #9 wire in two locations (two loops or 4 strands each) may be used from front hood hold-down/bolts to front bumper or two 3/8†chains. Bumper height not to exceed 24†to the bottom of the bumper from the ground and must be a minimum of 14†from the bottom of the bumper to the ground. Bumpers must be in stock location.If your bumper breaks loose during the event and is sticking out or has the potential to become a hazard, the show will be stopped and you have a choice. If the bumper can be removed completely, you may continue. If you choose not to take it off, you will be disqualified for that heat and may come back into the consolation heat if eligible. Engines: Engines and transmissions may be interchanged and mounts may be fabricated and welded as long as it does not strategically reinforce the frame, A-arms, or shock towers. No engine mounts, braces, cables, or chains may extend in front of, or behind the engine block. If you feel the need to chain your engine or engine cradle in, you may use one 12†chain (3/8†max) from the top motor mount or cradle down to the to of the frame. You may weld two of the links to the top of the frame rail, not to the vertical frame surfaces. No engine or transmission mounting to dash bar! “K†frames in cars may be welded to the main frame rails. 1/2†filler rod maximum. No plates as filler allowed. This filler rod and weld must not extend 4'' in front of or 4†behind engine block. No K-frames in non-K-frame cars. AFTERMARKET ENGINE CRADLES ARE ALLOWED. PULLEY PROTECTORS ARE ALLOWED. IF YOU USE A FRONT MOTOR PLATE, IT MAY NOT BE GUSSETTED TO THE HEADER FLANGES OR ATTACHED IN ANY OTHER MANNER. THE DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTOR IS AND MUST REMAIN A SEPARATE ITEM, NOT CONNECTED TO ANY OTHER COMPONENT IN ANY MANNER. AN EXAMPLE TO THIS WOULD BE IF YOUR SWAY BAR IS CONNECTED TO THE PULLEY PROTECTOR. THIS WILL NOT BE ALLOWED.
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HPT 5-6
Feb 23, 2012 9:21:09 GMT -5
Post by skip17 on Feb 23, 2012 9:21:09 GMT -5
FULL SIZE TRUCK CLASS
** 2wd only 1/2,or 3/4 ton truck, van or suburban can be used
** If truck does not pass inspection or driver is unwilling to change truck to pass inspection absolutely no refunds!!
1. All trucks must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules. 2. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby. 3. Foam filled or doubled tires OK -we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors OK. Tires may be screwed to rims. 4. Use motor and tranny of choice, motor must be in stock location. You may chain or weld motor and tranny to keep in place (don’t strengthen the frame). 5. Use rear end of choice. You can tilt rear end if you wish. Welded or posi-track highly recommended. 6. You must use a radiator and it must be in stock location. 7. All trucks must have working brakes. 8. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed. 9. Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell and it must be properly secured and covered. No gas cans. Plastic gas tanks must be cover with a metal shield!! Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat, use to be. 10. Transmission coolers will be allowed, but must be safe and properly secured. 11. Batteries must be moved to passenger floorboard close to transmission. It must be properly secured and covered. 12. You must have a number In Bright colors on each front door truck number on it for judging and recognition of truck.
Truck building: 1. All doors may be welded 5" and skip 5" from the bottom of the window down, using 3"x 3/16". If not welded, they may be chained shut using up to 3/8" chain only or #9 wire. Chain or wire may go around the frame but, NOT THROUGH THE FRAME. If using wire you may spot weld washers no bigger than 1" to the body for the wire to pass through. Two chains or wire per seam. Drivers door may be welded solid but metal is not to exceed 3" in width and 3/16" thick. 2. Tailgate may be welded 5" and skip 5" or you may use two 3/8"chain/#9 wire per seam. You weld 3 straps or chain from the cab to box on both sides 3. Hoods may be fastened with six all thread up to ¾" diameter or six 3/8" single loop chains/#9 wire. Two hood fasteners may go through the frame the others must be sheet metal to sheet metal only. You may use plates/washers for the all thread, but they are not to exceed 4"X4"X¼" thick. If using wire you may spot weld washers no bigger than 1" to the body for the wire to pass through. A minimum of 4" safety hole must be cut in the hood for fire inspection 4. Car or truck bumpers may be used. Bumper and brackets may be welded may weld brackets to frame . You may box in 18" section of the front and rear frame to help mount bumper . 5. A-arms, ball joints and Tie-rods must remain stock 6. Any tire is allowed on a rim no bigger than 16.5". No split rims. 7. Fuel tank must be placed in the center of the box by the cab. 8. Must use a 4 point cage system inside cab.(Dash bar and bar behind the seat may be connected with the same size pipe/tubing) 9. May not run a 4x4 frame for height reasons 10. May re-bolt or chain the box and cab in 4 places.(¾" bolt maximum and 3/8" chain) Plate size is limited to 6"x6"x¼". 11. Must run three strap from roof to dash for safety reasons.
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HPT 5-6
Feb 23, 2012 9:21:49 GMT -5
Post by skip17 on Feb 23, 2012 9:21:49 GMT -5
Fwd compact rules 109 " wheel base class
no 4x4 made into fwd. (for saftey, they sit too high) NO v8's. only 4 or 6 cyl
cages are allowed: One 6" max O.D. pipe or tube mounted between the doorposts behind the driver=s seat may be used. An 8" x 8" plate must be welded to each end of the pipe or tube. One 6" max O.D. pipe may be put in the front between the door posts where the dashboard was located. These must be welded around the plate only, no bolting them in place is allowed. You may weld one 6" max O.D. connecting pipe or tube on the inside of the front driver door and one 6" max O.D. pipe or tube no less than 6" from the inside of the front passenger door from front pipe or tube to rear pipe or tubes for safety. They CAN NOT be connected to the frame.
Steering:
1. Tie rods and steering arms can be altered.
2. Steering column shaft can be altered. Welding: All exterior seams may be welded using the weld 4" skip 4" rule. No welding of interior seams. NO FRAME WELDING. Driver's door may be welded solid. may also use two chains per seam
HOOD and TRUNK/HATCH Hood may be bolted with no more than 6 bolts not to go through frame EXCEPT the 2 core support bolts which can go through to the bottom of the frame.
Trunk lid may be bolted with no more than 8 3/8bolts. Two 3/4" bolts may go through to the bottom of the frame.
BUMPERS any car bumper (full size or compact) may be used. no added metal when changing bumpers
Tires:
1. Tires on front must 15" or smaller. the rear tires are optional, its your choice on the back
2. You may use inner tubes, screw tire to the rim, or glue a tire inside of a tire.
3. No foreign material (water, foam, concrete, etc.) inside of the tires.
4. Tires must be inflated with air only.
5. You may weld on valve stem protectors.
6.You may have two rear window bars from roof to trunk must only conect to outside body skin
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HPT 5-6
May 1, 2012 16:25:17 GMT -5
Post by mudflapsr on May 1, 2012 16:25:17 GMT -5
Anyone coming to the derby on sunday needs to be signed in and in the inspection line by 2:00 or you will not run . Everyone needs to go to the ticket office and sign in then come around to the south side of the dirt track to get in to the pits same as last year . thanks Daren
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HPT 5-6
May 1, 2012 22:40:30 GMT -5
Post by mudflapsr on May 1, 2012 22:40:30 GMT -5
PITS OPEN AT 11:30PM INSPECTIONS START AT 12:30PM FINAL INSPECTIONS 2:00PM DERBY STARTS AT 2:30
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Post by camocrush33t on May 4, 2012 0:04:55 GMT -5
so we are driving up and filling out the forms for driver entry at the ticketbox, and then taking the access road around to get in the inspection line?
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Post by skip17 on May 4, 2012 7:41:10 GMT -5
so we are driving up and filling out the forms for driver entry at the ticketbox, and then taking the access road around to get in the inspection line? Yes
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solidgold
Cheater
Always looking for R Body Mopars
Posts: 53
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HPT 5-6
May 6, 2012 10:12:28 GMT -5
Post by solidgold on May 6, 2012 10:12:28 GMT -5
Today: Showers and thunderstorms likely, mainly after 1pm. Some of the storms could be severe. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 84. Southwest wind between 5 and 10 mph. Chance of precipitation is 60%.
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HPT 5-6
May 6, 2012 20:18:33 GMT -5
Post by KG on May 6, 2012 20:18:33 GMT -5
Congrats to all the winners!
80's 1st Richard Neis 2nd Jason Dials 3rd Clint Doherty 4th D.J. Welsh
FWD 1st Joe Capell 2nd Barry Brown 3rd ? 4th ?
Compacts 1st ? orange and black car 2nd ? orange and black car 3rd S. Trieb 4th Mike Williams
This was a very hard hitting derby.
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HPT 5-6
May 6, 2012 20:54:05 GMT -5
Post by T.Harris on May 6, 2012 20:54:05 GMT -5
3rd Place in 80s was Clint Doherty and 4th in compacts Mike Williams...I think
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