OK... Here is the story on the compacts. They will run if there is more than three cars and they will run for their entry money only. The Lions Club won't be able to put up any extra money for this class. I will use Darren Moore's rules that he runs in Emporia. They are a good set and allow you to build a pretty hard car so I doubt anybody will be overbuilt for these rules. Let me know if you have any questions. -Jay
Compact 106"rwd 110"fwd Car Preparation
THIS SET OF RULES WILL BE FOLLOWED FOR ALL CLASS NO OVER BUILT CARS WILL RUN
1. No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames except where welding is specifically allowed in these rules.
2. All cars and trucks must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
3. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
4. Tires no bigger than 15 inch, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or doubled tires are ok – we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims.
5. Use rear end of choice, but must be no more than 5 lugs. You can tilt rear end if you wish. Welded or posi-track highly recommended. Back braces are welcome.
6. You must use a radiator and it must be in stock location.
7. All cars must have working brakes.
8. A-arms, ball joints, and tie-rods ends must remain stock. Tie rod tubes may be welded but no added material. Only stock car ball joints and tie rod ends are allowed.
9. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
10. Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell, and it must be properly secured and covered. Only metal tanks may be used. Fuel cell cannot exceed 12â€x12â€x12†or 7 gallons. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat use to be. No other source of gas inside the car at all. Engine coolers are allowed, however they must be a cooler with an elect. fan, no water/ice barrels or boxes can be used, these coolers cannot be placed to reinforce the car.
11. Transmission coolers are allowed, but must be safe and properly secured.
12. Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and covered.
13. You must have a number in Bright colors on each front door and must have a 15â€x15†sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car. Please paint all cars with the same color of paint and the number all in the same color. We want all cars to match as closely as possible.
Car Building Compact 106"
1. NO welding will be allowed on any part of the body or frame. The only welding allowed is in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you will not run!! NO OVER BUILT HARD CARS ALLOWED MUST BE TO THE RULES
2. All doors must be chained, wired, bolted or welded shut. Driver’s door may be welded inside and outside. All doors may be welded shut with strap no bigger than 3†by 1/8†thick. Tops of the doors may be pinched together and welded but do not add any filler material.
3. **For driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, and you may also have a bar across your dash bar to bars behind the seat across the inside of the front doors only. You can also weld a plate across the driver’s door not to exceed 6 inches past each seam. You may have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be welded or bolted to the roof – no kickers going back or front of the car. You may also weld a steering column to the cage. Back of cage including roll bar can only be 10†behind the back of the driver seat. You may also run a kicker from the door bar down to the floor or frame, do not extend any further forward than the front door seam, between the dash bar and seat bar, on the driver’s side only.
**Please reinforce your driver’s door very good, in this type of competition all drivers doors will take some type of hit during the event. We want you to be safe and protected behind your reinforcement.**
4. Bumpers are interchangeable, but must be a stock automobile bumper. Use bumper brackets from car’s stock bumper - no enclosing or boxing frames with bumper brackets or foreign material. No homemade bumpers or bumper brackets. You can weld bumper brackets or towers to the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock towers. You can collapse shocks, and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with ½†bolt or less, and it must be done vertically. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding the bumper skins (chrome to inner liner) is allowed. When welding bumpers, shocks, and brackets - do not add any metal. Weld them solid. We do not want them coming off. No welding bumper to the body in any fashion. Bumper height not to exceed 24†to the bottom of the bumper to the ground. Bumpers must be in stock location.
5. Bumpers may be welded to the end of the frame with no added metal, just welding wire. Front and rear bumpers may have 2 chains or 4 loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed in front of the radiator.
6. 2-1†All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame, MUST go through body mount hole, and you must have a spacer between the body and frame. You may use wire in 2 spots with 4 loops from trunk lid and may go around the frame with the wire. DON’T DO BOTH. Trunk lids may be chained/ wired/welded/ bolted from sheet metal to sheet metal. Chryslers may weld all thread to side of frame but the all thread must be vertical and go up through the deck lid, or they can go through the frame if they so choose. Short Trunk cars – If you run ready bolt through the front body mount they must be slightly bent to make sure they go through the trunk lid. Ready bolt can also be just tin to tin if you choose not to go through or attach to the frame.
7. You can fold hoods or trunk lid over.
8. Hood must have at least a 12 inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be bolted back together with 3/8†or less bolts and 1.25†diameter washer no more than a total of 12 bolts allowed to pinch the hood sheet metal back together. You may cut multiple holes but do not exceed the 12 bolts. You are allowed 8 spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of 4 tie down spots. You may have up to 1†all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame, but must go through the front body mounts. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only, and the hold down bolts cannot exceed 8†in length! You may have plates for hood tie down, not to exceed 5x5x1/4â€square or 6†x1/4†round.
9. Body mount bolts can be replaced with 1†bolts, body mounts can be replaced with steel or washers but must be 1†thickness and have the same diameter as stock spacers. Bolts may extend through body and have up to a 5x5x1/4†square or 6â€x1/4†round washer on top, washers must be separate. Bolts must be up inside of frame as factory and may have larger washer inside of frame. If you choose to use a body mount hole for you trunk ready bolt this does not have to be up inside frame, the plate can go on the bottom side of the frame. Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid. Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added. Do not add bolts, wire, chain, or cable in any fashion from the body to the frame other than stated in these rules. Chrysler k-member cars can remove the rubber spacers between the frame and k-member and bolt them up tight. Bolts may be replaced with up to ¾†in diameter. All cars, if you choose to leave in the stock rubber pucks you must leave the metal cones inside the rubber puck. You must leave at least a ¾ space if using the factory rubber spacer. Do not devise a way that enables you to suck them down tight.
10. You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal only. Do not cut rust out; weld 2†beyond rust. If your frame is rusted through, call for instructions on how to the fix the rust hole. DO NOT FIX IT WITHOUT CALLING AND EXPECT US TO ALLOW YOU TO RUN IT.
11. Suspension must be stock height. Leaf springs must be stock and made of stock spring material, with a 1â€stagger and no springs can be as long as the main leaf. You can only have a total of 7 leaf springs per side no thicker than 3/8" thick. The main leaf must be the top spring in the spring pack and leaf springs must go down from longest to shortest in minimum 1†stagger. You can re-clamp springs, 6 clamps per side with only 4 being homemade. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4â€. You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring, you can double the rear springs (they may be tied together in no more than two spots, do not weld them together), or put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other ways except what is listed above. You can bolt, wire, or chain coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them from becoming unbolted. You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8†chain or 4 loops of #9 wires) from rear end to frame in 2 spots on each side, must go around frame, do not bolt the chain to the frame. We are going to allow you to weld the chain to the side of the frame, for your chains from the frame to the rear end, you can weld one link only to the side of the frame if you choose to weld the chain instead of wrapping it around the frame.
12. Rear end control arms can be reinforced. If you reinforce your control arms you must build them starting with a stock set. They maybe shortened or made longer.
13. Steering/suspension must be remain stock.
14. You can run shifter through the floor, and you can have a switch panel. If you are running an electric fuel pump, it must be hooked up to your ignition switch, so when your car shuts off so does the fuel pump.
15. You may alter your steering column to prevent steering loss.
16. You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with 5 -3/8†bolts or less with 1.25†diameter washers. No rolling your fenders and welding them. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the core support do not exceed 4 – 3/8†bolts with 1.25†washers to bolt back to the core support of fender.
17. For safety, all cars must have (2) windshield bars extending from the roof of the car to the firewall/dash, straps cannot be any larger than 3/8"x3". If and only if you remove a part of the firewall/dash you are allowed to connect these two bars. The removed part must be completely removed and must be as wide as the vertical bars. The horizontal bars connecting the two vertical bars cannot be any larger than 3/8"x3" straps. No more than 6" of strap material allowed on the roof and no more than 6" of strap material allowed on the firewall. Do not go over 6" on roof or firewall or you will cut. If the firewall/dash is completely cut out you can weld a strap from the dash sheet metal to the dash safety bar, on either side of the cut out portion. Do not connect the windshield bars to the dash safety bar in any manner.
18. You are allowed 2 spots with 4 loops of wire (no cable or chain) in each window opening and may go to the frame. All #9 wire going through the windows must stay in the passenger compartment. When going through the floor and around the frame it has to go through the flat part of the floor. You may run two rear window bars . If you don’t understand please call first.
19. You may run wire from frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This must go around the frame, not bolting it to the frame. Do not pass this wire through the trunk as it would be another body mount, must go under trunk floor.
20. Rewelding of factory frame seems (both top and bottom) from the "A" arms forward is allowed. No welding behind the "A" arms is allowed. ***Do not paint the frames at all, we want to see the welds***
21. No radiator guards
22. Use motor and tranny of choice, motor must be in stock location. You may chain or weld motor and tranny to keep in place, but don’t strategically strengthen the frame. You may attached a strap on all four corners of engine going down to the frame, this strap may be welded directly to the top or side of the frame only, not to exceed 3/8†thick by 2†wide strap. The straps on the front of the motor cannot extend on the frame any more than 2†past the front of the head and cannot extend backwards at all. The straps on the rear of the motor cannot extend back on the frame any more than 2†past the back of the head and cannot extend forward at all. These straps can be connected from front to back, but the connection piece must be at least 4†above the frame and not to interfere with the A-Arm. Motor cradles are ok and can be welded to the cross member. This Rule will be Enforced. You must run the transmission cross member in the stock location you can weld 2†angle iron no thicker than 3/16â€, no longer than 6†to the side of the frame to support the cross member. If you pre-bend your frame do not use angle iron to re-support the bent area. The transmission cross member is the only method my which the transmission may be tied in. Do not attach transmission to dash bar or any other point in the car other than the cross member. If you choose to run an engine mid-plate this can only be attached to the frame by using the straps on the back of the motor. If you have questions on this please call!!!!!!
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