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Post by 33stylee on Mar 1, 2013 13:12:46 GMT -5
I have been informed that I will be officiating the Spring Derby in McCune KS on MAY 18TH. I'm being told that there will be a Full Size heat, a Compact Heat, and a Hobo Heat. Rules are posted below as both an attachment as well as in the next post. Times and payouts are still unknown, but I will post that info as soon as I know about it. -Jay Attachments:
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Post by 33stylee on Mar 1, 2013 13:14:05 GMT -5
Here are the rules if you can't get them to download from the above attachment.
DEMOLITION DERBY McCune, KS Saturday, April 6th, 2013
Head Officials Note: These rules have been modified from their original author. I have highlighted the areas in which you will need to be aware of for the changes and clarifications. I hope to see you all in McCune. -Jay
Check in times!!! Read up people. YOU MUST BE IN LINE FOR YOU INITIAL INSPECTION 2 HOURS PRIOR TO THE SHOW. That means if the show starts at 1pm, you have to be in line by 11am, or if the show starts at 11am, you have to be in line by 9am, etc. The only inspections that will happen after the 2 hour mark will be re-inspections. If you know you have cutting to do and don’t want to do it ahead of time, you better show up early.
RULES AND REGULATIONS
Entries in the Demolition Derby are open to men and women who have a valid drivers license. The following regulations shall be observed for the safety and fairness of all.
ENTRY
1. Each driver must be 21 years old or have a notarized permit from parent. No driver under 16 years of age will be allowed. 2. Each driver must furnish his own car or have someone sponsor his car. 3. Only American cars and station wagons are permitted. No Chrysler Imperials, hearses, Jeeps, trucks, Carryalls, convertibles, mini vans or commercial vehicles will be allowed. 4. A driver may enter each heat BUT must have a different car for each heat.. 5. Prior to race time, each driver MUST sign an entry blank and each driver and pitman MUST sign a release form.
PARTICIPATION RULES
1. Drivers may maneuver either forward or backward. 2. Hitting an opponent's car in the driver’s door is NOT ALLOWED AND WILL BE DISQUALIFIED. 3. If a driver does not hit another legal car within 60 seconds, that driver shall be disqualified. Do not play "Possum". No team driving is allowed. (This will be covered in drivers meeting) 4. All drivers must attend the pit meeting prior to the race. 5. The driver MUST remain in his car until his car is removed by a tow. 6. No derby official may officiate a heat in which an immediate family member drives. 7. Any driver not in place when heat is called will be disqualified. 8. No DRIVER or PITMAN under the INFLUENCE OF ALCOHOL will be permitted to enter the performance area or to participate. 9. Pitmen are not allowed in the show arena during a heat. 10. No one will be allowed to stay in the pit area without a pit pass.** This will be strictly enforced. 11. No one under the age of 14 will be allowed in the pit area. ** This will also be strictly enforced. 12. Cars may be inspected at anytime for reinforcements, etc. and disqualified PREPARATION OF CARS
Vehicles may only be modified in the following ways. Any modifications not specifically authorized by the rules are prohibited. No unauthorized modifications are permitted in order to accommodate authorized modifications. Structural modifications are not permitted unless specifically authorized herein.
Advertising and printing may be placed on the car anywhere except the front doors. The DRIVER'S NAME should be placed above the NUMBER (use your own choice of number) on BOTH FRONT DOORS, in LARGE PRINT. NO OBSCENITIES ALLOWED.
1).ALL plastic, chrome, fiberglass, die cast metals and glass MUST BE REMOVED BEFORE REACHING THE FAIRGROUNDS. This means vacuuming the inside of doors, etc. If glass is found in the vehicle, you will not be allowed to compete. This rule will be strictly enforced.
2) Imperials, hearses, ambulances, trucks, jeeps, convertibles, and carryalls will not be allowed. (This includes imperial sub frames)
3) Concrete, metal plated, wood, foam, and pins in the frame will be considered added ballast and NOT allowed. (Exceptions will be stated below)
4) Welding on the frame will NOT be permitted except where stated below.
Welding Exceptions (A-L) A. Door seams, trunk lid seams, and wagon gate seams may be welded with 1” by ¼” strap or equivelant. Examples: ½“ rebar, 2“x 1/8“, 4“x1/16“ absolutely nothing wider than 4“ Smaller material may be used.
B. 1 pipe not to exceed 3” diameter in the place of the dash and 1 pipe not to exceed 3” diameter placed no more than 6” behind the driver’s seat will be allowed. A 5” by 5” by ¼” plate can be welded on each end of these 2 pipes. A third pipe will be allowed on the passenger side that connects to the other two pipes. The third pipe will be inside the car, but next to the inside door panel is OK. Rollover/Halo bars permitted, but must be vertical, attached only to the cross pipe behind seat, and must have a 1“ gap between bar and roof of car when fresh. No bolting or attaching halo bar to roof in any way.
C. Any factory sheet metal seam may be welded without filler material.
D. A maximum of 2 straps (1” by ¼”) can be welded on the front of the car. A maximum of 2 straps (1” by ¼”) can be welded to the back of the car. All straps on the front and back of the car must be placed vertically, and not longer than 36 inches in length, and must attach to the bumper.
E. Driver’s door may be braced from 6” in front of the door to 6” behind the door. Material used for this will not exceed 6” in width. Prefer to have the brace on the outside of the door. (You will not be allowed to race without a driver’s door brace.)
F. Station wagon decking must be removed.
G. Factory bumper mounts may be welded to the frame without using filler material. Mounts must stay in factory location front on front, back on back.
H. Shock bumper cars may weld the shock without using filler material.
I. Hood/trunk pins may be welded to the car body, but not to the frame. They may be bolted to the frame as a combination body mount/hood or trunk pin. A total of 6 pins will be allowed in the hood and 2 pins will be allowed in the trunk. All pins will be no greater than ¾” in size and through the top layer of the frame only.
J. Factory motor mounts can be welded without filler material. Homemade motor mounts may connect only to the engine cradle cross member.
K. Fender welds – You may use 25 3/8” bolts anywhere on body panels. The rear can be rolled up and welded. NO filler rod allowed.
L. Window seams may be rolled over and welded. NO filler rod allowed.
5) Gas tanks are to be placed on the floor behind the driver’s seat. It must be chained, strapped, or bolted securely to the floor. Recommended is a 6-gallon boat tank. Fuel cells must be covered with sheet metal.
6) Transmission coolers may be placed inside the car in the back seat area.
7) Body mounts may be changed to ¾" bolts or less. They may go through the top layer of the frame only. A stamped washer must be used inside the frame, but a 5" by 5" by ¼" plate may be used inside the car as a washer on the topside of the body mounts. Do not add any body mounts. All cars must have rubber body bushing or 2" spacer between body and frame. Spacer must not exceed 3" in diameter. If factory bolts are removed, aftermarket spacers must be used. No stock pucks.
8) Car trunk lids may be folded in one place to fit inside the trunk compartment. Do not invert your trunk lid. Removal of the trunk lid is acceptable. Any other prefolding will not be allowed. No wedging of the trunks, this includes sedagons.
9) Entire hood MUST open for inspection.
10) Motors may be changed, but must remain in stock position front to back. Example: A Ford motor in a Chevy is allowed.
11) Radiators must remain in original location and contain water and/or antifreeze only.
12) Air conditioning condensing core may be placed in front of the radiator. No other reinforcement such as expanded metal may be used.
13) Coil springs: Coil spring rear end cars may NOT be changed to a leaf spring rear end.
Leaf springs: Leaf springs can be replaced, BUT: Do NOT add any leafs to leaf spring cars. Leaf springs must have factory stagger and arch. Do NOT torch leaf springs, they must remain stock length. NO FLAT STACKS. 3 sets of additional spring clamps may be added per side.
Coil and leaf springs must remain factory thickness for that vehicle. You may run one chain from the rearend to the top of the frame arch on each side, or run one chain across from frame rail to frame rail in back, but not both. Chains must attach to frame only and not be used as an additional body mount.
14) You may have two places of #9 wire on the car. Your choice of location. Each place may not have more than two loops or 4 strands twisted.
15) No tractor lugs allowed. No larger than 16” tires.
16) Pre-run cars may repair a total of 24 inches long by ¼" thick by 4” wide PER Frame Rail. It must be form-fitted to the frame. Any excess will be cut off, there will be nothing hanging off. This means you may take a ¼” plate that is 24” long and 4”wide and cut it however you choose and repair any bent, ripped, or twisted frame. This rule will be strictly enforced.
17) Pre-run cars may patch a hole in the body of the car, but not replace the whole side of the car. If you patch a hole you must use sheet metal no greater than the sheet metal that makes up the original car body. This patch may overlap the outside of the hole 2”-4”. Don’t push your luck.
18) A-arms may be welded. Trailing arms may be altered, but not reinforced. Tie rods must remain stock, no alterations, but you may do cross-overs. (Ex. Ford on Chevy etc)
19) Rear ends may be changed to passenger car, ½ ton or less with 5 factory lugs. Any 5 lug rear end may be run.
20) You may have a distributor protector OR a kicker pipes. But not both. The kicker pipe shall be 3” in diameter from the FIREWALL (NOT THE DASH BAR) to 6” behind the A-arms. You may have a 6” plate on the firewall to attach kicker pipe to. The distributor protector or kicker pipes must be 6” away from any body or dash bar metal prior to the show unless it’s a used car; Then there must be 3” clearance (if the car is nosed up and the judge can see that.)
22.) Rust repair to body: must be 12 gauge or thinner and the rust must be visible to the judge. Judges decision prevails. This means the judge must be able to see the rust and tell the thickness of the repair metal. If it is found that you have double layered or used sheet metal too thick to repair the rust, you will be made to cut it ALL off or you will not run.
23.) Frames: NO frame repair on fresh cars. Frame seams may be welded front to back using NO WIDER than ¼’ beads (one pass).
24) All judges’ decisions are final. No refunds of entry fees will be allowed. Please come legal so we do not have any problems.
25) If it does not state specifically that you can do something to your car, then don’t do it.
Re-stub and tilt Rule
80’s and newer: may cut and tilt front stubs and re-weld. Re-welding must be no wider than ¼”.
Pre-run cars that have damage to the front end may replace the front frame section or subframe.
Subframes may be replaced by bolting through factory body mount holes according to our body mount rules.
Full frame cars may replace the frame “stub”. No front stub replacements on fresh cars.
The replacement of a full frame stub must be within the preceding rule and must also be from GM to GM, Chrysler to Chrysler, and Ford to Ford etc. The stub must also be from within the same model or “family” of cars. (i.e. ’03 Lincoln Town car stub under a ’95 Crown Victoria… Not an ’03 Crown Victoria under an older model Ford Galaxie)
ABSOLUTELY NO IMPERIAL SUBFRAMES.
New for 2013: 2003 and newer Ford Motor Products will be allowed to run but must follow the following rules. You may replace the factory engine crossmember and suspension with either an aftermarket “cradle” or you may “retro-fit” suspension onto the car. Let me be perfectly clear here. You may only weld or bolt components onto the front frame section so as to hold those components on. Absolutely NO excessive welding or fabricating. If you have done something that strategically strengthens the frame, you WILL NOT run…period. The head judge has the final say in this area and all other areas of car preparation and driver participation.
Cars could be re-inspected after the Feature.
IF THIS REPAIR IS DONE INCORRECTLY THEN YOU WILL NOT RUN. IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS YOU NEED TO CONTACT US.
JUDGES RULINGS ARE FINAL
ALL PRIZES WILL BE GIVEN AT THE CONCLUSION OF THE DERBY
NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ACCIDENTS, SHOULD ANY OCCUR
Any questions about rules or car preparation should be directed to Jay Armbrister at 785.393.1721 JackWagon Promotions -Jay Armbrister 785.393.1721
Full Size No-Weld “Hobo” Class Rules
*Note from the head judge: This class is designed to allow for a person who does not have the money, time, or resources to build a competitive car in the full-size class. This class is designed with beginners in mind. When I say that I want this class to be stock, I mean absolutely bone-stock. I will allow you to do a few things, but those things will be for safety. If you take what I say and attempt to undermine the nature of this class, you will not be allowed to run. This set of rules is very simple and shouldn’t be too hard to understand. If you have questions, please call. You can be assured that I will rule on the side of more stock than more work. If you spend more than two days building this car, you are most likely over-built and stand the chance of not running the show. My ultimate goal is to allow people to get out and compete and have FUN!
Any year, make, or model car may be run (except those listed below) but it must be an American made passenger car. No vans, trucks, limousines, El Camino’s, etc. No Chrysler Imperials, ’59-’64 Ford Galaxies, or 60’s Lincolns, and no 71-76 GM Station Wagons.
You must relocate the gas tank and battery into the passenger compartment of the vehicle and they must be covered and securely fastened to the floor sheet metal. You must use a metal gas tank (we recommend a metal boat tank). No plastic gas tanks unless they are in a metal container.
Drivers Cage: You MUST weld in a bar behind the drivers seat from doorpost to doorpost. This bar may not be larger than 8” around or square and may have a larger 12”x12” plate welded on the ends. You may weld a bar where the dash board used to be. You may weld a bar from the back seat bar to the dash bar along the inside of the drivers door. You may also add another bar inside the drivers side door and we suggest a bar that runs inside the door from the rear of the door down at an angle toward the front bottom corner of the drivers front door. This cage is the extent of the welding allowed on these cars unless stated otherwise. Drivers door padding is recommended.
You MUST have a halo or roll over bar. This can be a single post from the back cage bar welded vertically up to the roof and welded or bolted to a plate and then to the roof or you may weld bars in a rollover bar fashion up off the back cage bar and along the top of the roof. The halo or roof bar must be vertical.
Body and Frame: No welding allowed on the frame unless otherwise specified. The frame must be completely bone-stock. Body must remain completely stock as well unless modifications are allowed in the following rules.
Minor notching of the rear frame allowed. You are allowed to make one notch on each frame rail in the rear of the frame behind the rear axle. No pre-bending on fresh cars.
No suspension modifications allowed. All suspension must remain stock.
You may remove the trunk lid, but if you run it, it must remain in the stock location. No tucking the trunk lid. The hood may only be cut to allow for the exhaust and each hood must have at least one 12” hole for fire safety. You must also have at least one bar bolted vertically in the front windshield area to keep your hood from coming back into the passenger compartment and cutting your head off (or any other variation on such an injury)
You will be allowed two pieces of ½” allthread in the hood. They must go from the top of the hood, straight down to the frame and may go through the frame body mount hole near the core support. These rods may not be welded and must be bolted.
Doors may have two chains, cables, bolts, or wire per seam to fasten them shut. Trunks and hoods may have only four total chains, cables, bolts, or wire to fasten them. Nothing larger than 3/8” chain, 3/8” cable, ½” bolts, or four loops of #9 wire. If any of your doors come open during the competition, you will be disqualified.
You may beat in the fenders, but only very minimal shaping will be allowed. Absolutely no enhancing or making new body lines in the sheet metal.
You must run the stock bumper for that make and model. The bumper may not be modified. If your bumper comes loose and is sticking out at an angle and is unsafe, you will be stopped and disqualified if the bumper cannot be broken off completely. You are allowed two chains total from the front bumper to the frame or hood/core support area. If you choose to go to the frame, you may drill one 3/8” hole vertically through the frame and you may attach your chain from the bumper to the frame using a 3/8” bolt in that hole. This hole must be no further than 4” from the back of the bumper mounting surface. This may also be done on the rear bumper and the measurements will apply the same. These two bumper chains will not count as two of your hood or trunk chains if they only go from the frame to the bumper. You are also allowed 8” of weld bead on the bumper for each frame/shock mounting area. This means you may weld a little on the bumper to hold it on. No added metal at all.
You may weld the lower motor mounts to the cradle/cross-member to keep your engine from breaking loose and flipping over. One pass top and bottom is all on each lower mount! If you can’t get to the cradle to weld it, you may have one 12” piece of chain that may be welded to the top motor mount and welded or bolted to the top of the frame.
Drivetrain: You must use a stock factory engine and transmission/drive shaft in this class. This means that GM cars must have a GM engine and transmission and Fords must run Ford engine and transmission and etc. There will be a $600 claim on any engine and transmission combo used during this competition. If you wouldn’t sell your engine and transmission for $600, then don’t run it in this class. Drivers competing in this class as well as the head judge may claim any engine from this class. Cash in hand policy on all claims.
You may convert the engine from fuel injection to carbueration. This must be done by only exchanging the intake manifolds.
Stock rearend axle assemblies must be used. You may weld the gears inside the rear axle, but no “geared rearends” and certainly no braced or reinforced rearends.
No transmission coolers. Tires: Nothing larger than 15” wheels and NO doubled tires or valve stem protectors. To clarify, you may have a factory wheel, a tube if you choose, and a tire no bigger than 15” and that is it. The only exception to this rule would be if the make and model of vehicle you are running came with larger wheels (i.e. newer Ford’s come with 16” wheels)…Nothing else.
The last rule is to get out there and have a good time!
2013 McCune Lions Club Derby Compact Class Rules
Any compact car or truck is allowed to compete in this class within the following specs: 106” maximum wheel base for rear wheel drive cars and trucks, and 108” maximum wheel base for front wheel drive cars.
No V8’s allowed in this class unless that specific year and model of car or truck came from the factory with a V8. (you better bring some documentation with you as your proof)
1. NO extra welding will be allowed on any part of the body or frame. The only welding allowed is in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you will not run!! NO OVER BUILT HARD CARS ALLOWED MUST BE TO THE RULES. Any added metal or other form of “cheating” that is hidden or attempted to be hidden is grounds for automatic disqualification.
2. All doors must be chained, wired, bolted or welded shut. Drivers door may be welded inside and outside. All doors may be welded shut with strap no bigger than 3” by 1/8” thick. Tops of the doors may be pinched together and welded but do not add any filler material.
3. For drivers protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X shape, and you may also have a bar across your dash where the dashboard used to be. You may also weld two bars inside of the front doors from the dash bar to the back bar. You may have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be welded or bolted to the roof. Back of cage including roll bar can only be 10” behind the back of the driver seat. You can also weld a plate across the drivers door not to exceed 6 inches past each seam. No kickers going back or front of the car off of any cage or roll bars. You may also weld a steering column to the cage. You may also weld a pipe from the drivers side door bar down to the floor or frame vertically. This pipe may not extend any further forward than the front door seam and must stay between the dash bar and seat bar. Please reinforce your drivers door very good, in this type of competition, all drivers doors will take some type of hit during the event. We want you to be safe and protected behind your reinforcement.
4. Bumpers are interchangeable, but must be a stock automobile bumper. Use bumper brackets from the cars stock bumper - no enclosing or boxing frames with bumper brackets or foreign material. No homemade bumpers or bumper brackets. You can weld bumper brackets or towers to the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock towers. You can collapse shocks, and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with 1/2” bolt or less, and it must be done vertically. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding the bumper skins (chrome to inner liner) is allowed. When welding bumpers, shocks, and brackets - do not add any metal. Weld them solid. We do not want them coming off. No welding bumper to the body in any fashion. Bumper height not to exceed 24” from the bottom of the bumper to the ground. Bumpers must be in stock location. No reshaping of a bumper. And example of this would be; you cannot take a stock bumper and cut, weld, and stuff it to look like a Chrysler Pointy bumper.
5. Bumpers may be welded to the end of the frame with no added metal, just welding wire. Front and rear bumpers may have 2 chains or 4 loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed in front of the radiator.
6. 2-1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame, MUST go through body mount hole, and you must have a 1” spacer between the body and frame or you may use wire in 2 spots with 4 loops from trunk lid and may go around the frame with the wire. DON’T DO BOTH. Trunk lids may be chained/ wired/welded/ bolted from sheet metal to sheet metal. Chryslers may weld all thread to side of frame but the all thread must be vertical and go up through the deck lid, or they can go through the frame if they so choose.
7. You can fold hoods or trunk lid over.
8. Hood must have at least a 12 inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be bolted back together with 8-3/8” or less bolts and 1” diameter washer. You may cut multiple holes but do not exceed the 8 bolts. You are allowed 8 spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of 4 tie down spots. You may have up to 1” all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame, but must go through the front body mounts. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only, and the hold down bolts cannot exceed 8” in length! You may have plates for hood tie down, not to exceed 5”x5”x1/4”square washers or 6” x1/4” round washers.
9. Body mount bolts can be replaced with 1” bolts, body mounts can be replaced with steel washers but must be 1” thickness and have the same diameter as stock spacers. Bolts may extend through body and have up to a 5x5x1/4” square or 6”x1/4” round washer on top, washers must be separate. Bolts must be up inside of frame as factory and may have larger washer inside of frame. If you choose to use a body mount hole for your trunk ready bolt this does not have to be up inside frame, the plate can not go on the bottom side of the frame. Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid. Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added. Do not add bolts, wire, chain, or cable in any fashion from the body to the frame other than stated in these rules. Chrysler k-member cars can remove the rubber spacers between the frame and k-member and bolt them up tight. Bolts may be replaced with up to ¾” in diameter. All cars, if you choose to leave in the stock rubber pucks you must leave the metal cones inside the rubber puck. You must leave at least a ¾” space if using the factory rubber spacer. Do not devise a way that enables you to suck them down tight.
10. You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal only. Do not cut rust out; weld 2” beyond rust. If your frame is rusted through, call for instructions on how to the fix the rust hole. DO NOT FIX IT WITHOUT CALLING AND EXPECT US TO ALLOW YOU TO RUN IT.
11. Suspension must be stock height. Leaf springs must be stock and made of stock spring material, with a 1” stagger and no springs can be as long as the main leaf. You can only have a total of 7 leaf springs per side no thicker than 3/8" thick. The main leaf must be the top spring in the spring pack and leaf springs must go down from longest to shortest in minimum 1” stagger. You can re-clamp springs, 6 clamps per side with only 4 being homemade. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4”. You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring, you can double the rear springs (they may be tied together in no more than two spots, do not weld them together), or put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other ways except what is listed above. You can bolt, wire, or chain coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them from becoming unbolted. You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8” chain or 4 loops of #9 wires) from rear end to frame in 2 spots on each side, must go around frame, do not bolt the chain to the frame. We are going to allow you to weld the chain to the side of the frame, for your chains from the frame to the rear end, you can weld one link only to the side of the frame if you choose to weld the chain instead of wrapping it around the frame.
12. Rear end control arms can be reinforced. If you reinforce your control arms you must build them starting with a stock set. They maybe shortened or made longer.
13. You can run shifter through the floor, and you can have a switch panel. If you are running an electric fuel pump, it must be hooked up to your ignition switch, so when your car shuts off so does the fuel pump.
14. You may alter your steering column to prevent steering loss.
15. You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with 5 -3/8” bolts or less with 1” diameter washers. No rolling your fenders and welding them. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the core support do not exceed 4- 3/8” bolts with 1” washers to bolt back to the core support of fender.
16. For safety, all cars must have (2) windshield bars extending from the roof of the car to the firewall/dash, straps cannot be any larger than 3/8"x3". If and only if you remove a part of the firewall/dash you are allowed to connect these two bars. The removed part must be completely removed and must be as wide as the vertical bars. The horizontal bars connecting the two vertical bars cannot be any larger than 3/8"x3" straps. No more than 6" of strap material allowed on the roof and no more than 6" of strap material allowed on the firewall. Do not go over 6" on roof or firewall or you will cut. If the firewall/dash is completely cut out you can weld a strap from the dash sheet metal to the dash safety bar, on either side of the cut out portion. Do not connect the windshield bars to the dash safety bar in any manner.
17. You are allowed 2 spots with 4 loops of wire (no cable or chain) in each window opening and may go to the frame. All #9 wire going through the windows must stay in the passenger compartment. When going through the floor and around the frame it has to go through the flat part of the floor. If you don’t understand please call first.
18. You may run wire from frame rail to frame rail underneath the back of car, behind rear end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This must go around the frame, not bolting it to the frame. Do not pass this wire through the trunk as it would be another body mount, must go under trunk floor.
19. Rewelding of factory frame seems (both top and bottom) from the "A" arms forward is allowed. No welding behind the "A" arms is allowed. Do not paint the frames at all, we want to see the welds. No welding of body seams inside the engine compartment unless it is where the subframe meets the body on subframe cars.
20. No radiator guards
21. Use motor and tranny of choice, motor must be in stock location. You may chain your motor and tranny to keep it in place, but don’t strategically strengthen the frame. You are allowed one piece of chain from each side of the engine to go to the top side of the frame rail. You may weld two chain links to the top of the frame only. These may not go to the side of the frame nor can they be bolted through the frame. Motor cradles are OK and can be welded to the cross member.
22. You may not weld the sway bar to the engine/cradle.
23. You must run the transmission cross member in the stock location. You can weld 2” angle iron no thicker than 3/16”, no longer than 6” to the side of the frame to support the cross member. If you pre-bend your frame do not use angle iron to re-support the bent area. The transmission cross member is the only method my which the transmission may be tied in. Do not attach transmission to dash bar or any other point in the car other than the cross member. If you have questions on this please call!!!!!!
-Jay Armbrister JackWagon Promotions 785.393.1721 jackwagonpromotions@gmail.com
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Post by 33stylee on Mar 22, 2013 7:34:53 GMT -5
no....not yet.
I was told start time of 11am and haven't heard different, but still no news on payout. I will make some calls and find out for sure. Sorry the info is so late on this
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Post by 33stylee on Mar 23, 2013 19:16:09 GMT -5
CONFIRMED!!!!
START TIME 11AM $25 entry for cars $10 for adults and $5 for kids (not sure what age is the break off)
Payouts as follows:
Full Size Weld Class 1st- $1200 2nd- $650 3rd- $350 4th- $25
Compact Class (payout based on minimum 6 cars) $500 total payout to be broken up as drivers decide
Hobo Class (payout based on minimum of 6 cars) $500 total payout to be broken up as drivers decide
Both the Hobo and Compact classes can get a little more money thrown at it if the turnout is good.
Since the start time is so early, I will be moving my cut off time for inspections to 10am. You must be in line for your initial inspection by 10am. The only inspections done after that time will be re-inpsections. I will try to be there by 7am and we will work very hard to get this show started on time. -Jay
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Post by 33stylee on Apr 1, 2013 12:13:42 GMT -5
[glow=red,2,300]RULE CHANGE!!![/glow]
I'm really sorry to do this at such a late stage, but it has to be done.
There has been some confusion about frame plates. The rules say "no repair plates on fresh cars." However...I allow fresh plates at my other shows. Several people have already put plates on their cars. Therefore...
Every car in the full-size weld class will be allowed 24" of repair plate per frame rail. Fresh or used...stubbed or not...24". That's it! End of story.
Please pass this information along to anybody you might know running this show. -Jay
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Post by 33stylee on Apr 1, 2013 12:15:28 GMT -5
Here's the rule... Just take out "pre-run" and forget the bent, twisted, ripped...part.
16) Pre-run cars may repair a total of 24 inches long by ¼" thick by 4” wide PER Frame Rail. It must be form-fitted to the frame. Any excess will be cut off, there will be nothing hanging off. This means you may take a ¼” plate that is 24” long and 4”wide and cut it however you choose and repair any bent, ripped, or twisted frame. This rule will be strictly enforced.
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Post by crusher71 on May 7, 2013 23:51:36 GMT -5
WHERE DO YOU SEE "3/8"? IT SAYS- 16) Pre-run cars may repair a total of 24 inches long by ¼" thick by 4” wide PER Frame Rail. It must be form-fitted to the frame. Any excess will be cut off, there will be nothing hanging off. This means you may take a ¼” plate that is 24” long and 4”wide and cut it however you choose and repair any bent, ripped, or twisted frame. This rule will be strictly enforced.
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