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Post by mudflapsr on May 12, 2015 9:55:00 GMT -5
PITS OPEN AT 12:00PM INSPECTIONS START AT 1:00PM FINAL INSPECTIONS 6:00PM DERBY STARTS AT 7:00pm
ENTRY FEE 40$ PIT PASSES 20$
Here are the payouts: Payouts are GUARANTEED!!
Compacts 1st =$900 2nd = $400 3rd = $200 4th = $100
Full size car 1st = $1500 2nd = $600 3rd = $300 4th = $150 5th = $50 HOBO 1st =$900 2nd = $400 3rd = $200 4th = $100
Power Wheels
Powder puff 100% payout entrys in Powder puff
Best of paint class $50
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Post by mudflapsr on May 12, 2015 9:55:52 GMT -5
GENERAL RULES **CARS AND TRUCKS MAY HAVE A DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTER...CAN NOT TOUCH THE DASH BAR AT ANY TIME OR WILL BE DISQUALIFIED.
1) IF CAR DOES NOT PASS INSPECTION AND YOU WILL NOT FIX CAR TO PASS INSPECTION, THERE WILL BE NO REFUNDS OF ENTRY FEES. 2) ALL RULES WILL BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NOT RUN. 3) DRIVER MUST BE ATLEAST 16 YEARS OF AGE AND HAVE DRIVERS LICENSE. IF 16-18 YEARS MUST HAVE NOTARIZED PARENT RELEASE FORM. 4) DRIVER MUST WEAR HELMET AND SEAT BELT AT ALL TIMES. 5) DO NOT HIT DRIVERS’ DOOR. IF IT LOOKS INTENTIONAL, YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED. IF YOU USE YOUR DRIVER’S DOOR AS A SHIELD YOU MAY BE DISQUALIFIED. 6) YOU WILL BE GIVEN ONE MINUTE FOR AN AGGRESSIVE HIT, AND ONE MINUTE FOR RESTARTS OR HUNG UP. NO ALCOHOL IN THE PITS. 7) AFTER DERBY-TOP 5 CARS WINNING PRIZE MONEY WILL BE REINSPECTED BEFORE ANY CARS/DRIVERS LEAVE THE ARENA. DRIVERS AND OFFICIALS ONLY ALLOWED IN ARENA DURING AND AFTER DERBY. IF PIT PEOPLE, FAMILY, OR FANS ENTER ARENA, DRIVER OF THAT CAR WILL BE DISQUALIFIED. ABSOLUTELY NO WARNINGS! IF SOMETHING ILLEGAL IS FOUND, ALL MONEY AND ENTRIES WILL BE FORFEITED. THERE WILL BE NO EXCEPTIONS. SO IF IT’S NOT CAUGHT IN FIRST INSPECTION, AND WE FIND IT AFTER OR YOU ADDED SOMETHING AFTER THE HEAT, YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED. ALL JUDGES DECISIONS WILL BE FINAL.
Compact 106"rwd 110"fwd Car Preparation THIS SET OF RULES WILL BE FOLLOWED FOR ALL CLASS NO OVER BUILT CARS WILL RUN 1. No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames except where welding is specifically allowed in these rules. 2. All cars and trucks must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules. 3. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby. 4. Tires no bigger than 15 inch, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or doubled tires are ok – we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims. 5. Use rear end of choice, but must be no more than 5 lugs. You can tilt rear end if you wish. Welded or posi-track highly recommended. Back braces are welcome. 6. You must use a radiator and it must be in stock location. 7. All cars must have working brakes. 8. A-arms, ball joints, and tie-rods ends must remain stock. Tie rod tubes may be welded but no added material. Only stock car ball joints and tie rod ends are allowed. 9. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed. 10. Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell, and it must be properly secured and covered. Only metal tanks may be used. Fuel cell cannot exceed 12â€x12â€x12†or 7 gallons. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat use to be. No other source of gas inside the car at all. Engine coolers are allowed, however they must be a cooler with an elect. fan, no water/ice barrels or boxes can be used, these coolers cannot be placed to reinforce the car. 11. Transmission coolers are allowed, but must be safe and properly secured. 12. Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and covered. 13. You must have a number in Bright colors on each front door and must have a 15â€x15†sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car. Please paint all cars with the same color of paint and the number all in the same color. We want all cars to match as closely as possible.
Car Building Compact 106"
1. NO welding will be allowed on any part of the body or frame. The only welding allowed is in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you will not run!! NO OVER BUILT HARD CARS ALLOWED MUST BE TO THE RULES 2. All doors must be chained, wired, bolted or welded shut. Driver’s door may be welded inside and outside. All doors may be welded shut with strap no bigger than 3†by 1/8†thick. Tops of the doors may be pinched together and welded but do not add any filler material. 3. **For driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, and you may also have a bar across your dash bar to bars behind the seat across the inside of the front doors only. You can also weld a plate across the driver’s door not to exceed 6 inches past each seam. You may have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be welded or bolted to the roof – no kickers going back or front of the car. You may also weld a steering column to the cage. Back of cage including roll bar can only be 10†behind the back of the driver seat. You may also run a kicker from the door bar down to the floor or frame, do not extend any further forward than the front door seam, between the dash bar and seat bar, on the driver’s side only. **Please reinforce your driver’s door very good, in this type of competition all drivers doors will take some type of hit during the event. We want you to be safe and protected behind your reinforcement.** 4. Bumpers are interchangeable. Use bumper brackets from car’s stock bumper - no enclosing or boxing frames with bumper brackets or foreign material. No homemade bumper brackets. You can weld bumper brackets or towers to the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock towers. You can collapse shocks, and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with ½†bolt or less, and it must be done vertically. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding the bumper skins (chrome to inner liner) is allowed. When welding bumpers, shocks, and brackets - do not add any metal. Weld them solid. We do not want them coming off. No welding bumper to the body in any fashion. Bumper height not to exceed 24†to the bottom of the bumper to the ground. Bumpers must be in stock location. 5. Bumpers may be welded to the end of the frame with no added metal, just welding wire. Front and rear bumpers may have 2 chains or 4 loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed in front of the radiator.
6. 2-1†All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame, MUST go through body mount hole, and you must have a spacer between the body and frame. You may use wire in 2 spots with 4 loops from trunk lid and may go around the frame with the wire. DON’T DO BOTH. Trunk lids may be chained/ wired/welded/ bolted from sheet metal to sheet metal. Chryslers may weld all thread to side of frame but the all thread must be vertical and go up through the deck lid, or they can go through the frame if they so choose. Short Trunk cars – If you run ready bolt through the front body mount they must be slightly bent to make sure they go through the trunk lid. Ready bolt can also be just tin to tin if you choose not to go through or attach to the frame. 7. You can fold hoods or trunk lid over. 8. Hood must have at least a 12 inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be bolted back together with 3/8†or less bolts and 1.25†diameter washer no more than a total of 12 bolts allowed to pinch the hood sheet metal back together. You may cut multiple holes but do not exceed the 12 bolts. You are allowed 8 spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of 4 tie down spots. You may have up to 1†all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame, but must go through the front body mounts. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only, and the hold down bolts cannot exceed 8†in length! You may have plates for hood tie down, not to exceed 5x5x1/4â€square or 6†x1/4†round. 9. Body mount bolts can be replaced with 1†bolts, body mounts can be replaced with steel or washers but must be 1†thickness and have the same diameter as stock spacers. Bolts may extend through body and have up to a 5x5x1/4†square or 6â€x1/4†round washer on top, washers must be separate. Bolts must be up inside of frame as factory and may have larger washer inside of frame. If you choose to use a body mount hole for you trunk ready bolt this does not have to be up inside frame, the plate can go on the bottom side of the frame. Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid. Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added. Do not add bolts, wire, chain, or cable in any fashion from the body to the frame other than stated in these rules. Chrysler k-member cars can remove the rubber spacers between the frame and k-member and bolt them up tight. Bolts may be replaced with up to ¾†in diameter. All cars, if you choose to leave in the stock rubber pucks you must leave the metal cones inside the rubber puck. You must leave at least a ¾ space if using the factory rubber spacer. Do not devise a way that enables you to suck them down tight. 10. You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal only. Do not cut rust out; weld 2†beyond rust. If your frame is rusted through, call for instructions on how to the fix the rust hole. DO NOT FIX IT WITHOUT CALLING AND EXPECT US TO ALLOW YOU TO RUN IT. 11. Suspension must be stock height. Leaf springs must be stock and made of stock spring material, with a 1â€stagger and no springs can be as long as the main leaf. You can only have a total of 7 leaf springs per side no thicker than 3/8" thick. The main leaf must be the top spring in the spring pack and leaf springs must go down from longest to shortest in minimum 1†stagger. You can re-clamp springs, 6 clamps per side with only 4 being homemade. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4â€. You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring, you can double the rear springs (they may be tied together in no more than two spots, do not weld them together), or put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other ways except what is listed above. You can bolt, wire, or chain coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them from becoming unbolted. You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8†chain or 4 loops of #9 wires) from rear end to frame in 2 spots on each side, must go around frame, do not bolt the chain to the frame. We are going to allow you to weld the chain to the side of the frame, for your chains from the frame to the rear end, you can weld one link only to the side of the frame if you choose to weld the chain instead of wrapping it around the frame. 12. Rear end control arms can be reinforced. If you reinforce your control arms you must build them starting with a stock set. They maybe shortened or made longer. 13. Steering/suspension must be remain stock. 14. You can run shifter through the floor, and you can have a switch panel. If you are running an electric fuel pump, it must be hooked up to your ignition switch, so when your car shuts off so does the fuel pump. 15. You may alter your steering column to prevent steering loss. 16. You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with 5 -3/8†bolts or less with 1.25†diameter washers. No rolling your fenders and welding them. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the core support do not exceed 4 – 3/8†bolts with 1.25†washers to bolt back to the core support of fender. 17. For safety, all cars must have (2) windshield bars extending from the roof of the car to the firewall/dash, straps cannot be any larger than 3/8"x3". If and only if you remove a part of the firewall/dash you are allowed to connect these two bars. The removed part must be completely removed and must be as wide as the vertical bars. The horizontal bars connecting the two vertical bars cannot be any larger than 3/8"x3" straps. No more than 6" of strap material allowed on the roof and no more than 6" of strap material allowed on the firewall. Do not go over 6" on roof or firewall or you will cut. If the firewall/dash is completely cut out you can weld a strap from the dash sheet metal to the dash safety bar, on either side of the cut out portion. Do not connect the windshield bars to the dash safety bar in any manner. 18. You are allowed 2 spots with 4 loops of wire (no cable or chain) in each window opening and may go to the frame. All #9 wire going through the windows must stay in the passenger compartment. When going through the floor and around the frame it has to go through the flat part of the floor. If you don’t understand please call first. 19. You may run wire from frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This must go around the frame, not bolting it to the frame. Do not pass this wire through the trunk as it would be another body mount, must go under trunk floor. 20. Rewelding of factory frame seems (both top and bottom) from the "A" arms forward is allowed. No welding behind the "A" arms is allowed. ***Do not paint the frames at all, we want to see the welds*** 21. No radiator guards 22. Use motor and tranny of choice, motor must be in stock location. You may chain or weld motor and tranny to keep in place, but don’t strategically strengthen the frame. You may attached a strap on all four corners of engine going down to the frame, this strap may be welded directly to the top or side of the frame only, not to exceed 3/8†thick by 2†wide strap. The straps on the front of the motor cannot extend on the frame any more than 2†past the front of the head and cannot extend backwards at all. The straps on the rear of the motor cannot extend back on the frame any more than 2†past the back of the head and cannot extend forward at all. These straps can be connected from front to back, but the connection piece must be at least 4†above the frame and not to interfere with the A-Arm. Motor cradles are ok and can be welded to the cross member. This Rule will be Enforced. You must run the transmission cross member in the stock location you can weld 2†angle iron no thicker than 3/16â€, no longer than 6†to the side of the frame to support the cross member. If you pre-bend your frame do not use angle iron to re-support the bent area. The transmission cross member is the only method my which the transmission may be tied in. Do not attach transmission to dash bar or any other point in the car other than the cross member. If you choose to run an engine mid-plate this can only be attached to the frame by using the straps on the back of the motor. If you have questions on this please call first!!!!!!!!!! 23.SKID PLATES: - Skid plates are allowed. They must be separate plated for the engine and the transmission. - NO full-length skid plates. - NO bolting or welding the skid plated to the frame. 24. If you are not running a dp or engine cradle you will be able to run two kickers off the dash bar too 4in in front of the upper control arm max 2in pipe or tube
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Post by mudflapsr on May 12, 2015 9:56:26 GMT -5
Full Size Cars
No 2003 and newer Ford vehicle or frames unless the stock engine cradle and suspension is used. No hearses, ambulances, limos, vans,Imp or Imp subs minivans, SUVs, trucks, or any other vehicle considered a truck allowed . 1979 and newer GM cars will be allowed into this class. 1977 and 78 Chevy Impalas and Caprices will also be allowed. Used or Pre-ran cars may fix ripped, torn, bent, or twisted frames. The site in need of repair must be obvious to the judges. All cars will be allowed 24in of repair plate per frame rail all plates must have a 3/8 hole in them(4inwide x 3/16inthick). The plate may be as long as you want, but you only have 24in total per frame rail. So you can put one 24inx4inplate on each hump and be done or you may put two 4inx4in plates on the front and a 8inx4in plate on the hump (per frame rail). If you dont understand this, please call. All excess plates and welds will be cut off or if its excessive, you will not run. Any plate longer than 4in must have a Â1/2 hole drilled in it to prove thickness and that it is the only plate welded in that site. Cage Bars: For the drivers protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost and it can be in an X shape if desired, but may not touch, connect, or be welded to the frame. It also must be no more than 6in away from the back of the drivers seat. You may also weld in a dash bar where the factory dashboard was located. You are only allowed ONE dash bar! This bar must be at minimum 6in away from any other sheet metal on the firewall or any engine component or distributor protector before the show. You may also weld door bars vertically from the dash bar to the bar between the doorposts along the inside of both the drivers and passenger side doors. These bars may not be longer than 60in, so your seat bar must be within the length of this bar. You may also weld in four down bars from the bars along the doors down to the floorpan or top of the frame rail to protect the drivers feet/legs or a battery if its located on the passenger floorboard. These down bars must be within the door seams and must be straight up and down, not angled. If you run a halo bar in the back, this may go to the floor sheet metal/frame and will count as your two back down bars. These bars cannot be connected to any body bolt or body bolt washer and must be at least 4in,away from any body bolt or washer. None of the bars listed may be larger than 8†in diameter except the down bars and they may not be wider than 6in. Halo or Roll Bars: You may weld a roll bar to the bar behind the drivers seat, but this bar must be placed in the car vertically. It may be welded to the the rear drivers cage bar. There may be three bolts throughthe top crossover bar through the roof sheet metal. It may not be welded to the roof. If you have your halo bar welded to the top of the frame, this counts as your two rear down bars as stated above. Drivers Door: Please reinforce your drivers door very good. You will in all likelihood take at least one shot in the door, so make it safe! The drivers door must be welded shut for safety. You may weld both the inner and outer door seams solid. We also recommend that you reinforce the door skin. You may weld a plate across the door, but it may not extend more than 6†past the front and rear door seem. You may also place a pipe inside the drivers door, but it also cannot extend more then 6in past the front and rear door seem. No grader blades allowed on the outside of the door. Windshield Bars: A minimum of two steel straps or bars (not to exceed 2in) must be located in the windshield area. They may be welded or bolted into place. If welded, they may have only 6in of weld total at the top and 6in of weld at the bottom and must attach to sheet metal only. They may not be connected or welded to the hood. They may not act to strategically strengthen the car or they will have to be cut/ altered as the officials see fit. Battery: Must be re-located to the interior of the passenger compartment and we recommend the passenger side floor board. The battery or batteries must be in a solid container and covered. They also must be securely attached to the floorboard of the vehicle or cage, not to the frame in any way. Gas Tanks and Gas Tank Protectors: No plastic gas cans unless it is a plastic or urethane fuel cell, in which case it must be placed inside a metal container. Steel boat tanks are recommended. 10 gallon maximum for any gas tank. Gas tanks must be securely fastened inside the passenger compartment and in the rear seat area. They must be fastened to the floor, rear seat area, or rear cage bar. You will be allowed a gas tank protector that may extend backwards from the rear cage bar towards the rear seat area. It may not be larger than 24inx6in at the back and must be at least 1†away from the sheet metal/package tray on fresh cars. Rear seat sheet metal may not be beat back or moved. We must be able to run our hand between the rear seat sheet meal and the gas tank protector. The bars may run straight back or angle in, but the rear bar may be no wider than 24in and none of this apparatus may touch any sheet metal or the frame in any way. If it is excessive and the judges deem that this apparatus will be or become an advantage to the car, it will not be allowed. We want this to actually protect the gas tank and that is it! The gas tank itself also may not act as any sort of reinforcement. The tank, if homemade, may not be wider than 24in. If you have modified your upper or lower control arm brackets to fit your rearend, and these new brackets will act to strengthen the frame along with your gas tank protector, you will have to cut your gas tank protector. Oil and Transmission Coolers: Engine Oil and Transmission Oil coolers are allowed. You must use high pressure hydraulic lines and fittings. Frame and Body Mounts: On the 1979 and newer GM cars, you may weld one plate on the outside only of the rear humps over the rear end. This plate may not exceed 6in wide, 22in long, and ¼in thick. There also must be three ½in holes drilled in these plates to prove the thickness. You must also follow the frame rails with these plates. If you have a used GM car, the above repair plate rule will still apply and this plate will not count as your repair plates, but you will only be allowed 16inX4in of plate to use to make your repairs. No frame/body swaps with older cars. No added metal to the car or body is allowed other than what is set forth in the rules to follow. Plain and simple, nothing is to be added to the inside or outside of the frame other than what is allowed. Absolutely no painting, undercoating, grease, silicone and dirt tricks on the frame. There is also absolutely no reason for there to be any metal located INSIDE the frame. Any attempt to obscure the frame holes to hinder the inspection of the inside of the frame will be considered grounds for disqualification. Scopes will be used! As for the re-shaping of the stock frame, this is ONLY what will be allowed. You may re-shape the frame from the rear humps backwards towards the rear bumper. This means where the frame begins to turnupward just behind the lower trailing arms mounts and rear seat back body bolt, you may re-shape your frame. This may include beating the sides in or squaring the edges. You may re-weld the top and bottom factory frame seams from the cross-member forward (unless you have moved your cross member back, this will be allowed from where the factory cross-member was located. ½in wide weld bead maximum. Vertical pinch welds on Chrysler cars may be folded and welded. This will allow you to properly weld any factory seam welds, and tilt or pitch your frame. You may repair rust, but read carefully. If the car is fresh, the rust must be cut out and the patch must fit inside the hole cut out. The plate may not overlap and MUST be the same thickness as the original frame metal. There must be a ½in hole drilled in this frame repair plate to prove its thickness. Cutting and/or pre-notching of the frame is allowed, but you may not re-weld the frame rails where it is notched or cut. No adding or subtracting body mounts. You may not move any body mounts either as to shorten the frame rail. If you move a body mount hole and your car cannot be made right, you will not run. Chrysler sufframe cars may add two additional body bolts (one per side) in the rear seat/trunk area. These bolts may not be larger than ½in diameter and must use regular ½in washers. If you try to use a larger washer, you will have to remove it all together and you will not be allowed to replace it. These to bolts may to through the floor sheet metal down through the bottom of the sub-frame. Body mount bolts may be replaced with up to ¾in bolts. There must be at least a 1in space between the body and frame. Rubber bushings may be replaced with other spacers, but must be at least 1in thick and the same diameter as the original bushing. Spacers may be welded to the body, but not the frame. You may use original rubber body pucks, but you must leave the metal inserts in to maintain the 1in spacing. Do not devise a way to suck the body down tight to the frame. Maximum 5in body mount washers allowed on the top of the body bolts inside the passenger compartment and trunk. Sub-frame cars may have washers up to 2in larger than the factory body mount hole (for example: if the hole is 4in, the use of an 8in washer is permitted). These washers may not be welded to the floor pans or trunk floor. Washers inside the frame must be in stock location and may be 2âin larger than the original frame hole. Chrysler K-frame cars can remove the rubber spacers between the frame and the K-member and bolt them up tight. Bolts may be replaced with up to ¾in diameter bolts. Radiator support (or commonly called the Core Support) must remain in stock location. The radiator support mount bushings may be removed completely. The radiator support may contact the frame but must not be welded to it. The two radiator mount bolts may be up to 1in diameter. These two bolts may be welded to the frame. These two bolts may extend straight down through to the bottom side of the frame. No angling back to frames to form a kicker. These two bolts may extend up next to the radiator support, through to the top of the hood, and be used as two hood hold down bolts. These two bolts may be welded to the radiator support. These two bolts may be welded to the frame if they do not go down through the frame. Thicker (taller) than stock spacers are allowed between the radiator support and the frame. Spacers may be welded to frame or the support, not both. No bolts allowed in front of radiator. #9 Wire (four loops maximum) or cable (one loop of 3/8âin) from driver side frame rail, across to the passenger side frame rail, is allowed. If used, it must be located above and behind the rear axle housing. No welding. You are allowed 2 spots of #9 wire, no more than four wires thick, from roof sheet metal only to frame. You may weld in a standard ¾in washer on the roof sheet metal to keep the wire from ripping the metal. You must run the transmission cross member in the stock location. You can weld 2in angle iron no thicker than 3/16in, and no longer than 6in to the side of the frame to support the cross member. If you pre-bend your frame, you may not use this angle iron to reinforce your bend. The transmission cross member is the only way a transmission may be tied in. Do not attach transmission to dash bar or any other point that is not the cross member.
Body: Bodies must remain stock. No re-welding of factory seams inside the engine compartment, inside the passenger compartment, inside the trunk compartment, on the underside of the body, under the hood or trunk lid. No added bolts or screws to any body seams. No added metal anywhere on the body of the car because of “rustâ€. If the body is rusty, we must be able to see the rusted areas that have been fixed. Bodies will be drilled or cut open for inspection if needed as determined by the officials. Hoods must open for inspection. Hoods must remain in the stock location and position. Bending down, or bending up, excess hood in front of radiator support allowed. Other than that bend, hoods must remain flat. Hoods must have a minimum of two 12âin holes for fire control. Holes cut in hood for fire control, or exhaust may be bolted (not welded) back together with up to eight 3/8âin bolts (1in washers maximum) per hole. Hoods must be either chained or bolted shut. Hoods may have no more than ten 3/8in bolts (1in washer max) fastening inner/outer hood sheet metal together on hood itself. Hood bolts or washers may not be placed as to create any reinforcement. If hood is bolted shut: A minimum of four bolts ¾in diameter must be used. A maximum of six bolts (with the front two 1in radiator support bolts counting towards your six) allowed to hold your hood down. The factory hood hinges do not count as a hood hold down. Only the front two radiator support bolts may go down through the hood to the frame. The other four bolts, if used, must be sheet metal to sheet metal only. No bolts to be placed in front of radiator as protection. Washers for the topside of the hood may not exceed 5in square and 1/4in thick. The hood washer may be welded to the top of the hood. 5in square washers may also be welded to the inner fenders at the corners (fender to radiator support and fender to the fire wall or cowl) below the hood. Bolts may then be welded to these washers to hold the hood. 1in1/2 Angle Iron, no more than 6inlong welded to hood & fender/bolted together may be counted same as other hood bolts. If the hood is chained shut: A minimum of four spots of 1/4in chain must be used. A maximum of up to eight spots of 3/8in chain may be used. The use of 5in square washers is allowed as above. Fenders may be cut for a larger wheel well opening. Fenders may be bolted back together (with no welding) with up to eight 3/8in bolts (1in diameter washers maximum) per wheel well opening. Excess front fender in front of radiator support may be cut, folded over, and bolted (not welded) back together. Four 3/8in bolts (1in washers) allowed per fender for this. Doors must be chained, wired, bolted, or welded (exterior seams only) shut. You may weld the door seams and trunk lid solid. Chain must be a minimum of 1/4in, wire must be a minimum of two loops, bolts must be a minimum of 3/8in, and weld must be 4in on a minimum of two spots per door seam. No chain, wire, or bolts allowed to go to or around frame or cage. 3in wide by 1/8in strap maximum allowed to weld over the exterior door seams. You may also have one loop of #9 wire per window opening sheet metal to sheet metal no more than four wires thick. Trunk lids and station wagon tailgates may be chained, wired, bolted, or welded shut the same as the doors. Any two methods are allowed to fasten the trunk lid or tailgate. No method may go to or around the frame or rear bumper unless specified in these rules. Trunk lid may be tucked down inside the trunk compartment. Trunk lid may not be welded to the trunk floor pan. Two bolts (maximum 1in diameter) are allowed in the trunk from the bottom of the trunk pan up through the top of the trunk lid. These two bolts are allowed to go down through the top side of the frame only in the rear body mount holes. The bolt must be cut off flush with the bottom of the nut inside the frame. If the bolt sticks down through the bottom of the frame, it will have to be cut before an inspection will be done. If you choose not to run them through the body bolt hole, they may welded to the outside of the frame. These bolts will have to be welded to the side of the frame rail in a straight up and down manner. The use of 5in washers is allowed on the trunk lid the same as the hood. These two bolts must be cut flush with the top of the nuts. These two bolts are the only bolts allowed to hold the trunk lid down. If you beat your speaker deck and trunk lid down more than 2in, you must have a 12in inspection hole cut in the top of the trunk lid or floor board. Pre-forming or pre-bending the body sheet metal is allowed. It may be cut to shape it, but not allowed to re-weld or bolt back together (except for the front edge of the front fenders, wheel well radius, and hood holes). . Station wagon tail gates may be lowered, then chained, wired, bolted, or welded shut. No more than ten 3/8 bolts (1in washer max) may be used to bolt inner/outer trunk lid sheet metal together. If back bumper has been removed, Station Wagon gates maybe lowered & bolted or welded to back bumper brackets or shocks.Tops of doors, and areas that had moving windows, may be pinched together and welded. Weld bead only, no plates or other material allowed. Inspectors must be able to see down into the body. The re-welding of the doorpost or pillar, to the floor sheet metal is allowed on both the driver side and passenger side. No added metal The use of fabricated parts such as steering columns, fuel pedals, brake pedals, transmission shifters, seat brackets, battery boxes, fuel tanks (10gal max), and coolers allowed. Seat, battery, fuel tank, and cooler brackets must be welded to, or bolted to, the floor sheet metal. No chain, wire, or rubber type straps allowed to fasten these items. The seat, battery, fuel tank, and coolers must be secure. Steering column brackets and seat brackets may come in contact with, and be attached to these bars. No bracket may extend in front of the dash bar (other than steering column bracket). No bracket may extend past the rear of the seat bar except the gas tank bracket and protector. Brackets in the front seat area must be welded to, or bolted to, floor sheet metal only. Brackets in the front seat area may not be attached to the body mount washers. Brackets in the back seat area must be welded to, or bolted to, the floor sheet metal only. Bolts in the back seat area may not go through, or around, the frame or sub-frame. Brackets for the front seat area, and brackets for the back seat area, must be completely separate. One post or pillar is allowed in the rear window area. 2in x 2in square, or 2in round maximum size allowed. This post or pillar must mount to the back edge of the roof and extend down to the front edge of the original trunk lid seam on the body. One 5in x 5in x ¼in maximum size plate allowed at the top and one plate allowed at the bottom. These plates must be mounted to sheet metal only. This must be ONE bar and must remain straight. No looping or making a U-shaped bar. It’s one straight bar, or no bar. Remove all rear decking in station wagons. Suspension and Steering: YOU MAY CONVERT A WATTS LINK FORD TO A STANDARD GM REAREND IN THE FOLLOWING WAY: USE THE TRAILING ARM BRACKETS OFF AN OLDER FORD OR METAL OF THE SAME SIZE AND THICKNESS. NO POSITIONING OF THE BRACKETS TO STRENGTHEN THE FRONT DOWNLEG OF THE REAR HUMP. YOU MAY CUT OUT THE COIL SPRING FRAME TRAY FROM AN EARLIER YEAR FORD AND WELD IT IN THE NEWER FORD. IF YOU CHOOSE TO MANUFACTURE A SYSTEM FOR THE UPPER BRACKETS PLEASE CALL AHEAD. ONE PASS ONLY, 1/2in MAXIMUM. NO STRONGER THAN STOCK. You may not replace a ford package tray with a GM package tray, or vice versa. The package tray must be stock for that model of vehicle. Leaf spring packs may not have more than 7 leafs and must have 2in stagger in the front of the axle and the 2in in back of the axle. You may add 4 spring clamps per side, but not all four may be on either side of the axle. This means you may have two in front and two in rear, or one in front and three in rear. The clamps may not be larger than 5inx2inx1/4in and may have two ½in bolts holding them together. Front and rear factory leaf spring brackets, on Chrysler cars, may be welded to the floor brackets, and or sub-frame brackets. All shackles must be factory car shackles. Absolutely no welding allowed anywhere on the leaf springs or clamps. If your rearend is chained tight and down too low, you will be made to change it. The head judge will make the final decision on rear body height. You may run a dana80 or smaller rear end The interchange of front spindles, rotors, and upper A-arms allowed (except for 2003 and newer Fords). The parts must not be reinforced or altered and must be considered OEM car, not truck or SUV. Only a minimum of fabrication is allowed to do this. The A-arm mounts, if needed, may not strengthen the frame, or be stronger than what is considered stock. You may reinforce your tie rods. You may weld or bolt your front A-arms down to the frame. If you bolt them, you may use one ¾in bolt on each side. If you weld them, you may have 2in of weld on the top of the frame in front of the A-arm and 2in behind. This weld cannot be to the vertical sides of the frame or act to strengthen the frame in any way or will be cut. This should allow you a 2inx2âin plate from the top of the frame rail to the A-arm both front and back to weld it down.Any rear axle assembly may be used as long as it is a factory five lug set up. No floater-type rearends. Rear axle braces are also allowed, but must not be any closer than 4in from the frame on fresh cars. This distance will be judged differently on used cars. There must be at least a 2in gap on used cars minimum from the frame rails to the axle tubes or bracing as long as the humps are kinked and this small of a gap was unavoidable. If the hump has been stretched can into original position and plated/repaired, the 4in gap is then required. The head judge will have the final call on this gap. This measurement is from the axle tube straight back and upwards towards the rear frame rail. Factory rear control arms on coil sprung cars may be lengthened or shortened. Only a minimum of reinforcing is allowed. Boxing of rear control arms, allowed. Double coil springs are allowed, (one coil spring turned inside a second coil spring). Coil springs may be wired, welded, or cabled in on top or bottom. Only one place is allowed to hold coil spring in. Air shock lines must be cut. You are allowed two chains or cable or wire total (one on each side of the center section/pinion of the rear axle) around axle housing to frame or body. May not be welded or bolted to frame or body, but just looped around it. It must be looped AROUND the rear frame, not bolted through the frame creating a pin. Altered or fabricated steering columns allowed. Tires: We do not want flats. No bigger than 15âin rims, no spit rims, no studded tires on driven wheels. No rim reinforcements. Wheels may have after market centers welded in, but no larger than 6in wheel centers. No spikes, paddles, or other material to be welded inside or to the rim. No liquid filled tires allowed. Rim screws allowed, but only on the inside of the wheel. Implement tread, forklift type, foam filled, urethane, solid, and double tires are allowed. Valve stem protection is allowed. Any ply allowed. Bumpers: Any car bumper allowed on any car. Bumpers may be cut. Bumpers may be chained, bolted, or welded on. Bumpers may be welded to the brackets, and brackets may be welded to the frame. Bumpers may be welded directly to the frame. Brackets may be cut. Use only factory brackets. No bracket or shock may extend rearward more than 14 inches from the rear of bumper mounting face. This is measured at the factory mount surface. You may weld your bracket on the outside or run the shock inside the frame (not both) no farther than 14in back from the bumper. All excess bracket must be cut off at that point. All shocks inside the frame may have a ½in bolt run through it and drilled all the way through the fame rail side to side. You may not weld the nut or bolt to the frame. Nothing may extend back past this 14in point inside or outside the frame. All brackets must make contact with the bumper. No extra steel or other material allowed as a bumper bracket. You may use either the factory brackets that came with the bumper, or you may use the factory brackets that came with the car, not both. Instead of using bumper brackets you are allowed to use 1- 4” wide x 3/8” thick strap extending from your bumper down one side of the frame and cannot extend any further back than the very front most part of your top-front a-arm bracket. You are also allowed to wrap this strap around the front of the frame 4” to create an “L” shape this is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to the strap. Do not abuse this rule you will cut it.
Bumpers may have seams welded. You may reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper. The bumper must start stock and may have metal put inside for reinforcement. Bumper chrome may be smashed down and welded to inner bumper support. Bumpers may be mounted upside down. Rear car bumpers allowed on the front. Front car bumpers allowed on the rear. Rear bumper brackets may only be used on the rear of the car. Front bumper brackets may only be used on the front of the car. You also may NOT take a stock bumper and re-shape it and then load it. An example would be taking a steel Ford Crown Victoria bumper and re-working it into a “pointy†Chrysler look-alike. If its a Ford bumper, it needs to remain a Ford Bumper. Just put your steel on the inside. No homemade bumpers allowed. Rear Bumpers, 4 chains or 4, 2in wide straps from rear bumper to car body allowed. No more than 5in of weld on straps on body and 5in of weld on bumpers. Bumpers must be smooth at the edges. Front Bumpers will be allowed two plates not to exceed 2†wide x ¼ thick and 4in long. These plates are to be welded on the top of the bumper and may extend backwards along the top of the frame. They may also be welded on the side of the frame if you choose to. The plates must lay flat against the frame and may be welded along the entire outside edge of the plate. This is to help you keep your bumper on during the show. It may not act as a gusset or any strengthening. It is to keep your bumper in place¦That is it! If you would rather, you may use #9 wire in two locations (two loops or 4 strands each) may be used from front hood hold-down/bolts to front bumper or two 3/8in chains. Bumper height not to exceed 24in to the bottom of the bumper from the ground and must be a minimum of 14in from the bottom of the bumper to the ground. Bumpers must be in stock location.If your bumper breaks loose during the event and is sticking out or has the potential to become a hazard, the show will be stopped and you have a choice. If the bumper can be removed completely, you may continue. If you choose not to take it off, you will be disqualified for that heat and may come back into the consolation heat if eligible. Engines: Engines and transmissions may be interchanged and mounts may be fabricated and welded as long as it does not strategically reinforce the frame, A-arms, or shock towers. No engine mounts, braces, cables, or chains may extend in front of, or behind the engine block. If you feel the need to chain your engine or engine cradle in, you may use one 12âin chain (3/8in max) from the top motor mount or cradle down to the to of the frame. You may weld two of the links to the top of the frame rail, not to the vertical frame surfaces. No engine or transmission mounting to dash bar! K frames in cars may be welded to the main frame rails. 1/2in filler rod maximum. No plates as filler allowed. This filler rod and weld must not extend 4'' in front of or 4in behind engine block. No K-frames in non-K-frame cars. AFTERMARKET ENGINE CRADLES ARE ALLOWED. PULLEY PROTECTORS ARE ALLOWED. IF YOU USE A FRONT MOTOR PLATE, IT MAY NOT BE GUSSETTED TO THE HEADER FLANGES OR ATTACHED IN ANY OTHER MANNER. THE DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTOR IS AND MUST REMAIN A SEPARATE ITEM, NOT CONNECTED TO ANY OTHER COMPONENT IN ANY MANNER. AN EXAMPLE TO THIS WOULD BE IF YOUR SWAY BAR IS CONNECTED TO THE PULLEY PROTECTOR. THIS WILL NOT BE ALLOWed
If you are not running a dp or engine cradle you will be able to run two kickers off the dash bar too 6in in front of the upper control arm max 2in pipe or tube
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Post by mudflapsr on May 12, 2015 10:03:07 GMT -5
HOBO CLASS Any American make car or station wagon can run with the following exceptions. No 1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Imperial sub-frames, 4x4s, ambulance, hearses, trucks, limousines, No 2003 & newer Ford cars or frames, No Distributor protectors, engine cradles, No braced rear ends, No frame welding except for what is allowed in rules.
These rules are REQUIRED and must be met or you will not run.
1. Overall condition must be safe. This applies to used cars as well as some fresh cars. IF the officials deem the car unsafe to run, it will not run.
2. Fire jacket highly recommended. Long pants are required. Eye protection and gloves highly recommended. Shoes are required.
3. Minimum of D.O.T. rated helmet required. Full-face helmets recommended.
4. Seat belts are required, must be functional, and fastened to the floor or seat bracket. Officials decision is final.
5. Car must be fully stripped of all flammable material. Factory seats and factory dash are allowed. All glass, chrome, door handles, and any unsafe items must be removed from the inside and outside of the cars. All plastic, stainless and pot metal trim, fiberglass, and rubber must be removed from the outside of the car. Car floor, trunks, and inside of doors must be swept of glass, debris, and must be clean.
6. Factory fuel tank(s) must be removed. Unused factory fuel lines must be blown free of gas. Removing unused fuel lines recommended. Factory fuel tank may not be re-used.
7. A steel seat support (seat bar) is required from the inside of the driver door(s) across to the passenger door(s), must be behind the seat, and must be no farther back than 6 from back of drivers seat. This support must be made of steel, 2 x 2 x square, 2 x round minimum, 6 x square or round maximum. Steel plates are required on the ends of this support, 6 x 6 x minimum, 12 x 12 x maximum. These steel plates must be welded well to the support. Officials decision is final. The steel plates may be bolted to the car, however welding is highly recommended. IF the factory dash is removed, a support similar to the seat support is required. If you use a dash support, it may be connected to the seat support bar with similar material. These bars may be against inner door skin. These bars may not extend past the dash or seat supports more than 6.
8. Drivers door must be welded shut for safety. Welding the outer drivers door seams completely is highly recommended. Welding the inner drivers door seams allowed. Outer drivers door skin reinforcement is allowed and highly recommended. Outer drivers door bar may not extend in front of the front door seem more than 6, and may not extend past the rear door seem more than 6. No grader blades. Pipes, C channel, or other material are allowed on the outside of the drivers door. Reinforcement on the inside of the drivers door with pipe, bars and other material is allowed.
9. Halo bars and rollover bars are allowed. The addition of posts on hardtop sedans (connecting top of doors to roof) is also allowed. Roll over cages may run on the exterior of the roof, and must be welded to the seat support and dash support (if used). Connecting these roll over cages to the roof is allowed and recommended. These roll over bars, behind the seat only, must be vertical (not angled up and back), may extend down to the floor tin, however, it may not be attached to the frame or sub-frame.
10. A minimum of two steel straps or bars must be located in windshield area. These may be bolted or welded and must only attach to sheet metal.
11. Battery must be re-located inside of passenger compartment. The battery must be in a solid container and must be securely fastened and covered.
12. No steel gas cans or plastic gas jugs allowed. A steel boat tank is recommended, however any metal tank deemed safe by the officials is acceptable. Any plastic or urethane fuel cell must be in a solid metal container and must be covered with metal. The fuel tank must be securely fastened inside the passenger compartment. Officials decision is final.
13. Hoods must have a minimum of two 12 holes for fire control.
14. Cars must have some type of working brakes.
15. Oil coolers, engine and transmission, are allowed. IF air coolers (fans) are used, a shield must be located between the cooler and the driver. High-pressure hydraulic lines and fittings are recommended. No gas hose is allowed. It must be compatible with transmission oil. If oil hose is used, minimum of two hose clamps per fitting. Non high-pressure oil hose must be covered. Engine cooler hose and fittings must be high pressure.
16. Electric fuel pumps are allowed, must have high pressure fuel line, All fuel hose must be covered. And be safe!
17. Radiator coolant over flow tubes must point straight down.
Car Building Rules
Any American make car or station wagon can run with the following exceptions. No 1970 or older Lincolns. No 1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Imperial sub-frames, 4x4s, ambulance, hearses, trucks, limousines, No 2003 & newer Ford cars or frames, No Distributor protectors, engine cradles, No braced rear ends, No frame welding except for what is allowed in rules.
If it is not allowed in the following rules, then do not do it!
Frame and Body Rules:
1. Official's decision is final.
2. No frame / body swaps. No added metal to car body or frame other than what is allowed!!
3. Frames must remain stock. No re-welding factory frame seams except for what is allowed in rules! No filling holes in frame, big or small! No frame plating inside or out. No re-painting frames with paint or under coating. No grease and dirt tricks. No means NO! If you have any paint, undercoating, or other dirt grease tricks, foam or mouse nest etc. inside your frame you wont pass inspection! No welding on frame anywhere! Scopes will be used for inspection!! Any repairs on pre-run cars must call first! 4. Cutting and or pre-notching the frame are allowed, but must not re-weld any part of it. No adding of body mounts to the frame allowed.
5. Engines and transmissions may be interchanged and mounts may be fabricated and welded as long as it does not strategically reinforce the frame, A frames, or shock towers. No engine mounts, braces, cables, or chains may extend more than 4 in front of, or 4 behind the engine block. Maximum length of angle or plate is 4. Maximum size allowed is 2 x 2 x . Angle or plate must extend upward from top of frame only. Engine mounts may only be attached to the top of the frame rail, no welding to vertical frame surfaces. 6. Body mounts & bolts must remain stock! ( may replace with same size bolt like stock)Only added mounts are the front core support/ Hood bolts & two trunk bolts may go to frame. You are allowed #9 wire (4 strands thick) wrapped around body & frame in eight locations per car. You may use inch flat washers tack welded to the body to loop #9 wire thru. May run a lower engine cradle but no dp or pulley protectors .
7. Radiator support mount bushings may be removed completely. The radiator support may contact the frame but must not be welded to it. The two radiator mount bolts may be up to 3/4diameter. These two bolts may be welded to the frame. These two bolts may extend straight down through to the bottom side of the frame. These two bolts may extend up next to the radiator support, through to the top of the hood, and be used as two hood hold down bolts. No bolts allowed in front of radiator. 2 chains or #9 wire in two locations(two loops or 4 strands each) may be used from front hood hold-down/bolts to front bumper.
8. All trailer hitches, tow bars, and other material used for towing, must be removed completely.
9. Bodies must remain stock, No added bolts or screws to body seams than what is allowed in rules. No adding metal to body other than driver door. 10. All cut outs for fenders, hood fire hole, inspection hole, and header hood openings may have up to six 3/8 bolts per cut out. 11. Hoods must open for inspection. Hoods must remain in the stock location and position. Bending down, or bending up, excess hood in front of radiator support allowed. Holes cut in hood for fire control, or exhaust may be bolted (not welded) back together with up to six 3/8 bolts (1 washers maximum) per hole. Hoods must be either chained or bolted shut. Hoods may have no more than ten 3/8 bolts (1 washer max) fastening inner/outer hood sheet metal together on hood itself. If bolted shut: A maximum of six bolts, not to exceed 3/4 diameter is allowed. The factory hood hinges do not count as a hood hold down. Only the front two bolts may go down through the hood to the frame. The other four bolts, if used, must be sheet metal to sheet metal only. No bolts to be placed in front of radiator as protection. Washers for the topside of the hood may not exceed 5 square and 1/4 thick. The hood washers may be welded to the top of the hood. 5 square washers may also be welded to the inner fenders at the corners (fender to radiator support and fender to the fire wall or cowl) below the hood. Bolts may then be welded to these washers to hold the hood. If chained shut: A minimum of four spots of 1/4 chain must be used. A maximum of up to eight spots of 3/8 chain may be used. The use of 5 square washers is allowed as above.
12. Radiators must be in the stock location and may use factory type mounts. Ratchet straps, wire, and chain may be used to hold in radiator. Aluminum radiators may be used. Electric fans may be used. Air conditioner condensers may be bolted directly to the radiator support.
13. Fenders may be cut for a larger wheel well opening. Fenders may be bolted back together (with no welding) with up to six 3/8 bolts (1 diameter washers maximum) per wheel well opening. Excess front fender in front of radiator support may be cut, folded over, and bolted (not welded) back together. Four 3/8 bolts (1 washers) allowed per fender. 14. Doors must be chained, or wired shut or welded! Not to exceed 4 spots per door seam and a minimum of 4 spots per door. Chain must be a minimum of 1/4, wire must be a minimum of two loops. You are allowed #9 wire (4 strands thick) wrapped around body & frame in eight locations per car . If welding may have one 2X4in plate per seam . Only the Drivers door may be welded solid!
15. Trunk lids & station wagon tail gates must remain in the stock position. Tucking and folding the rear portion of trunk lid is ok. Trunk lids and station wagon tail gates must be chained, or wired shut! Not to exceed 4 spots per door seam. You may have two inch all thread from trunk lid to frame. You may also have two bolts sheet metal to sheet metal. No more than two locations of #9 wire from trunk lid or rear of station wagon roof to frame. No more than four chains or #9 wire per seam on wagon gates & trunk sheet metal to back bumper. Trunks must have a 12 square inspection hole. Station Wagons: are allowed to pre bend roof but NO SEDAGONS! 16. The use of fabricated parts such as steering columns, transmission shifters, seat brackets, battery boxes, fuel tanks, and coolers are allowed. Transmission and engine oil coolers are allowed. Two batteries are allowed.
17. Seat, battery, fuel tank, and cooler brackets must be welded to, or bolted to, the floor sheet metal. No chain, wire, or rubber type straps allowed to fasten these items. The seat, battery, fuel tank, and coolers must be secure. No bracket may be attached to, or come in contact with, the seat bar, dash bar, or door bars. Steering column brackets and seat brackets may come in contact with, and be attached to, these bars. No bracket may extend in front of the dash bar (other than steering column bracket). No bracket may extend past the rear of the seat bar. Brackets in the front seat area must be welded to, or bolted to, floor sheet metal only. Brackets in the front seat area may be attached to the factory body mount washers. Brackets in the back seat area must be welded to, or bolted to, the floor sheet metal only. Bolts in the back seat area may not go through, or around, the frame or sub-frame. Brackets in the back seat area must not be attached to, or come in contact with, the seat bar or door bars. Brackets for the front seat area, and brackets for the back seat area, must be completely separate. Gas tank protectors may be welded to seat bar and must have a 1 space between the backseat area. No wider than 24 The official's decision is final. Suspension Rules:
1. No leaf springs under non-leaf cars allowed. No solid suspension. Suspension must be working and have a minimum of 2 travel. No reinforcing of steering or suspension components other than what is allowed in these rules.
2. The front spindles, rotors, and upper A frames must not be reinforced or altered and must be considered OEM car, not truck or SUV.
3. Rear axle assemblies must be stock factory type rear ends. Rear ends must not have more than five wheel studs per axle shaft. NO Rear axle housing braces are allowed. May run a slider shaft.
4. No more than 7 leaf springs per side, no more than 3/8 thick leaves. The leaves must stagger down to bottom spring with a minimum of 1 stagger. The leaf directly under the main may not extend longer, or past, the main leaf eyebolt. No double wrapping of the main leaf. No leaf may be as long as the main leaf. No leaf springs on top of, or above, the main leaf allowed. 4 leaf spring clamps allowed per leaf spring pack, 8 total per car. Maximum size of clamps is 2 wide by 5 long by 1/2 thick.
5. Coil springs may be wired, welded, or cabled in on top or bottom. Only one place is allowed to hold coil spring in. Air shock lines must be cut.
6. Allowed two chains or cable or wire around axle housing to frame or body. May not be welded or bolted to frame or body, just looped around it.
7. Shocks are allowed and must have 2 minimum travel. 8. Wire (four loops maximum) or cable (one loop of 3/8) from driver side frame rail, across to the passenger side frame rail, is allowed. If used, it must be located above and behind the rear axle housing. No welding.
9. Altered, replaced, and or fabricated steering columns allowed.
Tire rules:. We do not want flats. 1. No bigger than 16 rims, no spit rims, no studded tires on driven wheels. No rim reinforcements. No spikes, paddles, or other material to be welded inside or to the rim. No liquid filled tires allowed. Rim screws allowed. Implement tread, forklift type, foam filled, urethane, solid, and double tires are allowed. Valve stem protection is allowed. Any ply allowed.
Bumper Rules:
1. Bumpers may be cut. Bumpers may be chained, bolted, or welded on. Bumpers may be welded to the brackets, and brackets may be welded to the frame. Brackets may be cut. Use only factory brackets, no extra steel or other material allowed as a bumper bracket. You may use either the factory brackets that came with the bumper, or you may use the factory brackets that came with the car, not both. Bumpers may have seams welded. Bumper chrome may be smashed down and welded to inner bumper support. Bumpers may be mounted upside down. Rear car bumpers allowed on the front. Front car bumpers allowed on the rear. Rear bumper brackets may only be used on the rear of the car. Front bumper brackets may only be used on the front of the car. No bracket may extend rearward more than 14 inches from the rear of bumper. This is measured at the factory mount surface. All brackets must make contact with the bumper.
2. Any car bumper allowed on any car.
3. Rear Bumpers, may have no more than four 3/8 chains or #9 wirefrom the rear bumper to car body, or trunk lid. Bumpers must have smooth edges.
4. Number 9 wire, you are allowed 2 spots no more than four wires thick from roof to frame 5. May have 2 4X4 repair plates per frame rail on used cars only .
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Post by mudflapsr on Jul 31, 2015 9:47:05 GMT -5
Will also be running lawn mowers 100% payback
Mowers must be a factory type lawn mower or garden mower prepared to these rules! RULES WILL BE ENFORCED!!!!!!!!!! Basic Lawn Mower Building Rules 1.Only front mounted motors are allowed on mowers. No rear mounted motors allowed. 2. Must be a factory lawn mower engine, Briggs & Straton, Tecumseh, Onan, etc. 3. No zero turn mowers allowed. 4. Only belt driven mowers allowed. 5. Electric start mower preferred, you must be able to start your mower from your seat. No lying across the hood of your mower to start it. 6. Battery and fuel tank cannot be in front of the motor. They both must be securely attached. Gas tanks must have a cap. Any mower leaking fuel or that is not safe will be disqualified for that heat. 7. All plastic, lights must be removed. Mower decks must be removed. 8 .All mowers must have a factory hood & Factory fenders. Plastic hoods may be replaced with Sheet metal hoods. Hoods must be secured by bolting, chaining, shut. 9. Engine bay area may be reinforced, But MUST be contained inside of the hood & maintain factory body lines. 10. All mowers must have Leg and feet guards installed. These guards must be built to protect feet and legs. The out side of guards must be covered with sheet metal. They may be welded or bolted to rear fenders and front frame and foot rest area. These guards must be built safe. Any mower with an unsafe leg guard or any guard that falls off during event will be disqualified or not allowed to participate. 11. A back seat bar is allowed. This is to protect the back of seat. This bar may be mounted to the rear fenders of the mower. 12. CLEAN UP YOUR WELDS!! We do not want any participants cut from nasty welds!! 13. Frames must be stock. Frames may have repair welds. Frames may have added metal to attach bumpers. 14. Spark plug and carburetor protectors are allowed. 15. Exhausts must not extend out from mower hood area. Must be safe! We do not want any burns! No Stacks! 16 .All mowers must use factory lawn mower type wheels. Rear wheels (rims) may not be any larger than 12 inches in diameter. Tractor treads and cut tires, atv tires are permitted. Air in tires only ! (no foam filled tires) 17. No dual wheels allowed. No wheel covers, wheel weights or chains are allowed. 18. Tubes, Slime, and other sealants are allowed. No foam filled tires allowed. You are allowed to glue or screw tires to rim. 19. Modification or replacement of the drive pulleys is allowed, BUT All mowers must be safe and participate at a safe speed. Official decision is final. 20. Transaxles must be factory available transaxles, but reinforcing and/or welding of spider gears is allowed. 21. Bumpers. All Bumpers (front and rear) must be safe! No pointed or jagged bumpers. Bumpers may not exceed 3 inches by 3inches and no wider than the inside of wheels. 22. No grill guards on front of mower. All reinforcing must be behind sheet metal & contained inside the hood area. 23. No kickers or braces from front bumper to leg guards. 24. Mowers may have steering altered or reinforced, BUT modifications must be kept to a minimum. (call first) 25. All mowers must have a number painted on side or back. 26. All Drivers must wear a helmet. All other ground rules and event rules will be gone over in the drivers meeting. Officials decision is final. For any Questions please call Daren 620-366-2823
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Post by mudflapsr on Aug 6, 2015 11:08:37 GMT -5
The hobo class will be a qualifier for 2016 SCK Championship demo derby winfied ks show next year .Bring spare parts may run heats
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Post by mudflapsr on Aug 14, 2015 7:49:38 GMT -5
Inspections are from 1:00pm to 6:00pm if your running late let me know
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Post by mudflapsr on Aug 17, 2015 8:09:25 GMT -5
Thanks to everyone that help and ran in the derby it was a good show . Would like to get all drivers that would like to run in my shows next year and go though the rules we need to clean somethings up and calm somethings down . Thanks Agin for a great show
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