bilt
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Posts: 159
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Post by bilt on Aug 2, 2016 21:38:45 GMT -5
Hardtner, Ks
August 6th at 7pm. Pits open at 4 pm.
Old Skool rules Bolt n chain class $1,500 purse Old Skool weld class (Ultimate Derby weld rules) $1,500 purse.
Any questions contact: Tony at 620-222-4535
Thanks, Barclay
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bilt
Pro Cheater
Posts: 159
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Post by bilt on Aug 2, 2016 21:41:30 GMT -5
Chain and Bolt class These Rules will be used at all shows for 2016 put on by OLD SKOOL PRODUCTIONS LLC. ENTRY FEE - $30 PIT PASSES - $25
NO DRIVERS UNDER 16 YEARS OF AGE. IF UNDER 18, YOU MUST HAVE A SIGNED RELEASE FORM FROM PARENT or Guardian. Except where the fair association states a minimum age.
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTION ABOUT THE RULES PLEASE CONTACT Tony at 620-222-4535.
2016 Demolition Derby Rule
The bolt n chain class is open to all men and women 16 and over. Driver must have a driver’s license or proof of age. In fairness to all, the following rules and regulations shall prevail. If under 18 you must have a Parents Signature. Must be 18 and over for the Cowley County Fair.
Do not do any more than what is stated in these rules. These rules state what you may do if not in here you can’t do it. Do not do anything to make your car illegal after inspection. If this happens you will be disqualified and there will be no return of entry fee. Officials have the right to re-inspect your cars at any time.
PARTICIPANT REGULATIONS
Drivers may move forward or backward. They must make contact every 60 seconds or be disqualified. There will be no sandbagging or team driving. If you sandbag/team driving, the race will be stopped and a sandbagger/team driving flag will be put on top of your car and whoever takes him/her out will get $50. No team driving allowed, not even on a sandbagger. If an official sees you have the ability to make a clean hit and you lock your brakes up to slide into them, you will be issued a sandbagging flag. Official's decision is final. The 2nd time this happens your flag will be broken. Cars must move when hit or show visible damage. No driver’s door hits will be allowed. No using the driver’s door for a shield will be allowed.
SAFETY RULES AND REGULATIONS
1. Cars must have at least 2 bars attached from the roof down to the dash area to prevent the hood from coming in. you may use chain or 2 in. by 3/16 steel bars welded no more than 4 inches on roof or firewall area.
2. Radiator over flow hoses must be pointed at the ground and fastened so they cannot shoot water towards officials or other drivers.
3. Header pipes must be pointing straight up. They cannot be aimed towards front or side of cars.
4. Note: If you have a hole in the fire wall, it must be covered.
5. Safety belts are required. Must be worn at all times when in arena.
6. D.O.T. approved helmets are mandatory. Any driver using an open faced helmet will be required to wear safety goggles or shield.
7. Helmets must be worn at all times when in the arena.
8. Mandatory: You must wear long pants and a shirt. (fire suit recommended)
9. 1 fire and you are out unless it’s a fuel fire. Then you must show official when re-entering arena it was fixed.
10. No alcoholic beverages or drugs are allowed in pit area or on the track.
11. NO PIT PERSONS ALLOWED ON THE TRACK. No drivers or fans in contact with judges if you or pit persons or fans of yours are in contact with judges you will be disqualified. If driver crawls out of car during a stop in action then you must exit arena area.
12. Note: Management does have the right to disqualify a car/driver at any time. Any person on the track or in the pit, causing trouble and not complying with the rules, will be asked to leave. (We can have you escorted off or have you arrested and banned from running future derbies.)
13. Protests must be made no later than 5 minutes after the heat or consolation in question. No protests will be taken after feature event. Only Drivers in this class are allowed to protest a car. $50 protest fee you get it back if you are right if not the driver you protested gets the protest money.
PREPARATION OF CARS No screws are allowed on outside of car. NO PLASTIC GAS TANKS. (Heavy duty plastic racing fuel cells are allowed.) No wedging, no sedagons, no jeeps, no trucks (ranchero and El Caminos are considered trucks), no carryalls, no hearse, no limos, no convertibles, no imperials 73 and older or imperial subs. No sub changes. All glass, chrome, pot metal, lights, carpet, headliner, back seats, fiber glass and anything else that is flammable must be removed before reaching the exhibit area. (Do not break glass down in the doors.) Trunks must be empty of all debris, spare tire rims, parts, etc. Wagons must have spare tire flap removed or hole cut in it for inspectors to see.
ABSOLUTELY NO welding besides what is stated in these rules. All 9 wire must be tied to the car so not to fall off in the arena. UNLIMITED 9-WIRE. This does not apply where rules specify how much wire you can use, i.e. doors and bumpers or Where used for reinforcement.
MANDATORY Car must have number on the roof with name on roof above front doors. Use your choice of number. You must have a roof sign with minimum of 12 inch numbers on both sides of sign. No profanity allowed on cars.
ENGINE Engine swaps are allowed. The lower engine mount may be welded or bolted with three 3/8" bolts to the frames crossmember. You may run a lower engine cradle that HAS to be mounted similar to how the original motor was mounted from the factory. Which means it can only be bolted to the car frame and has to have rubber mounts between the car frame and engine cradle. Absolutely no metal to metal contact between the car and the lower cradle. The cradle will only be 3/8" thick or less. No pulley protectors or anything the inspectors see as a pulley protector. You may use 2 chains to retain one on each side or use two straps, 2 in. by 3/16 thick to hold motor in. It can ONLY be welded to TOP of frame no more than 3 inch long weld. The strap cannot be farther forward than the stock mounted water pump. You may use header pipes. Must have stock motor mount bolted or welded to cross member, If stock mount not used it will be up to the inspection to ok best to use stock mount. If welded you may not add any material. No pulley protectors, distributor protectors, or carburetor protectors allowed.
RADIATORS It must be an automotive radiator, remain stock, and in the stock location. No home made radiators allowed.
TRANSMISSION Transmission coolers are allowed. They must have double clamps on all rubber to steel lines. No transmission protectors allowed. Aftermarket steel bell housing is allowed but must be close to factory specs. Transmission may have chain to secure. Cross member must be bolted in. If you don’t have a cross member you must use a piece of 2x4x1/4 C- Chanel and it must be bolted in with a max 4- 3/8 bolts with 1 inch od washers.
BATTERY The battery must be in the front passenger side and be covered with something nonflammable like rubber tube, rubber floor mat, etc. Batteries must be secured so they don’t move. 2-12 volt batteries max.
SUSPENSION Suspension must remain stock. No welding on the shocks, no trailer hitches, special lifts, blocks, air shackles, air shocks. Air lifts must be deflated. Screw in spring spacers ok. Shocks ok if after market. No homemade shocks.
REAR ENDS Rear ends must be 5 lug, GM to GM, Ford to Ford, Mopar to Mopar. Locking of the rear ends permitted. Stock mounting for make, year and model of car required. No braces or axle protectors. You may use a 3/8 chain around frame and to axle 1 wrap only. You may 9 wire or chain lower coil spring to spring pocket. After market gears in rear end are allowed.
DRIVE SHAFTS It must be OEM stock drive shaft.
TRAILING ARMS & A-ARMS They must be factory with absolutely no reinforcing, shortening or lengthening. You may 9 wire A-arms or bolt down with 5/8 max bolt with 1 ½ od washers. Or you may use 1 3/8 chain 1 wrap around a-arm to frame per side.
STEERING COLUMN/BRAKES/SHIFTER The steering column must be stock. You may put steering knuckle at rag joint. Brakes must work. You may use a bolt in pedal assembly in the drivers floor board and must be bolted to sheet metal only. You may put shifter on the floor or attached to the tranny. A cable shifter is ok.
HOOD Hood must remain in the factory position with no sliding forwards and folding down over the front.. 6 hood bolts allowed but only 2 may go through the frame outside of radiator support and cannot be directly in front or behind the radiator they must be bolted to the frame not welded in or you can weld your bolts to the core support with no more than 3" down from the top of the core support or fender ABOUSOULTY NO ADDED METAL WHEN WELDING JUST WELD THE BOLT lN . This rule will be strictly inforced. Bolts must not be any bigger than 1 inch with hood washers no bigger than 5 inches outside diameter. You must have 2 holes cut in the hood big enough for fire extinguisher. Not directly over carburetor. You may use 20 bolts around header holes no bigger than SAE 3/8 with washers no bigger than 1 inch.
TRUNK You can use 4- 1 in. bolts in trunk and 2 may go through frame with washers no bigger than 5 inches outside diameter. Trunk lids must remain on factory hinges. Tucking or V’ing of trunk lid is allowed, but absolutely no wedging. You may chain or 9 wire or bolt with 3/8 bolts with 1 inch od washers up to 10 places total on deck lid, if bolting it can only go through drip edge. Wagon gates are considered same as deck lid.NO MORE THAN 50% OF TRUNK MAY BE TUCKED.
BODY No seam welding and no patching is allowed. Pre-denting is okay. Body must be stock to frame.
FENDERS Fenders may be trimmed and 10 bolts may be used per fender. Bolts are to be no bigger than 3/8 with washers no bigger than 1 inch outside diameter. You may have 2 wraps 4 strands of 9 wire from fender to fender in front of radiator not connected to bumper. This wire must be ran behind or in front of wire from core support or hood to bumper.
BODY MOUNT BOLTS They must be factory. Bushings must be factory. If missing a body bolt, you may use factory size bolt for fix. If bushing is missing, you may wire mount with 9 wire. Do not remove rubber mount or you will 9 wire it or load it.
FRAME Absolutely no welding is allowed on frame. No reinforcing of frame whatsoever. You can notch the frame. You may pre bend frame. You may not put fix-it patch on a fresh car. You may patch or fix the frame with a max of 6-6x4x1/4 plates per car. Three (3) patches are allowed per frame rail uni-body cars will be considered 1 frame rail per side. There must be visible damage to the frame, i.e. tear or bend. A patch may not be closer than 1 inch to another patch, which means 1 inch between welds on patch. If you have to patch after your heat and have 6 plates, one must be removed before one is added.
DOORS Driver’s door may be welded solid with a strap no bigger than 3 inches, on the outside only. On the driver’s only, you may reinforce inside the car however you want as long as it does not attach to the frame and does not go past door seams of driver’s door more than 8 inches and is deemed safe by inspectors. You must have a safety bar welded or bolted. If bolted, must have 4 bolts through bar to body. Bar cannot go past door seam by more than 8 inches. All other doors may be chained up to 6 places per door or wired 6 places per door. On wagon’s tailgates, NO WELDING is allowed.
CAGE You may have a cage with two side bars, one on the driver’s door and one on the passenger door; and two cross bars, one behind the seat and one at the dash. The cage cannot extend past the dash area in the front and must be no further back than 8 inches behind the front seat or behind the front doors, rear door seam, i.e. 2 door cars. This can be welded in. Absolutely no kickers are allowed. You may have 5 down bars. They cannot go to the frame. sheet metal only. You may have a halo bar it cannot be any farther back than the seat bar. None of the cage or halo can connect to the frame. A halo cannot connect to the windshield bars or the roof sign.
BUMPERS No welding on bumpers. They can be wired, chained from mount to mount. You may remove brackets but cannot add any, i.e. you can put bolts or chain anywhere between the mounts to the car, 6 bolts 1 inch max 24 inches long per piece may be used to bolt front and rear bumper on. No welding of shocks or brackets. If you have an aluminum bumper you may change it to a stock model bumper for that make. Bumper swaps are ok; must be GM to GM, Ford to Ford, Mopar to Mopar. Brackets must be stock to the car you are running. No changing the mounting brackets for the make, model and year of car is allowed. Brackets must be in stock mounting position on frame. NO WELDING OF SKINS. Make sure the bumpers are well secured. We don’t want to pick them up all night.
GAS TANKS A maximum of 7 gallons of gas is allowed. Fuel cells/metal boat tanks must be placed in back seat area and properly secured. NO STOCK TANKS. Fuel cells must be secured so there is no movement. (Do not use bungee cords for this.) If tank is not secure you will not be running. Fuel cells must have secure caps and be leak proof. All fuel lines must have no leaks. Stock gas tanks must be removed or have holes in them and washed out. NO PLASTIC TANKS. (Heavy plastic racing fuel cells may be used.) Tanks must be covered with non-flammable material. Tank must be mounted in center or behind driver’s seat.
TIRES/ Wheels Any tire allowed up to 16 inch, Tire inside of tire is okay. No fluid allowed inside of tires. No valve stem protectors allowed. no wheel weights. Make sure you remove them even from your spares. Weld in centers are allowed maximum of 9 inch diameter and ¼ thick. Maximum of 16 inch wheels will be allowed.
2016 qualifying rules. 1. Must have 8 points to qualify for championship race in 2016. 2. Winner of a race will receive 6 points. 3. Top 8 get 5 points per race. 4. If show has a maddog he will get 4 points for the race. 5. Show up to a race ,car passes inspection and you run in at least one heat you will receive 3 points. These points are not added up per race IE. If you show up and win the race u get 6 points, not 3 for showing up, 5 for top eight and 6 for the win. Once you qualify if you place in the points your points will go to the guy who placed below you until it stops at 8th place.
You may repair your cars to a factory fix in the pit the night of the race. If during inspection after the show the inspectors find it to be excessive, you will be ejected and forfeit your winnings. This is a stock class. It will remain a stock class so do not do any more than what is stated in these rules. Do not do anything to make your car illegal after inspection. If this happens you will be disqualified and no entry fee will be returned. Officials have the right to re-inspect your cars at any time.
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bilt
Pro Cheater
Posts: 159
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Post by bilt on Aug 2, 2016 21:44:20 GMT -5
Weld rules (Ultimate Derby rules for modified weld class
General Rules 1. ALL RULES WILL BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NOT RUN. 2. Any American make car can run with the following exceptions; No 2003 or newer FoMoCo frames, No 1970 or older Lincolns. No 1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Imperial sub-frames, 4x4’s, ambulance, hearses, trucks, limousines, etc. 3. All drivers must sign the driver’s paperwork or they will not drive in the event. 4. Driver is recommended to wear a helmet, FIRE SUIT JACKET 5. All Drivers must attend the drivers meeting. 6. No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle. This will be the quickest way to be DISQUALIFIED. 7. You are given 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that particular car will be disqualified, not the team. You are only given 1 minute in total, not 1 minute to get started and 1 minute to hit. 8. No drivers are allowed alcohol - period. If you are wearing a driver’s band and drinking any form of Alcohol -YOU (if team event AND YOUR TEAM) WILL BE DISQUALIFIED. 9. Cars will be re-inspected before any prize money is paid out. The cars will be re-inspected by theOld Skool staff only. Everyone else will stay back until cars are deemed to be legal. 10. There is a $50 protest fee, and you must be a driver in the main event to protest another car or team’s car. Driver must have cash in hand directly after the feature in order to protest. If the car is found to be illegal it will be disqualified and (if it is a team event the ENTIRE TEAM WILL BE DISQUALIFIED). 11. Any complaints that a driver has about another car prior to the start of the first heat will need to be addressed in the drivers meeting in specifics. If nothing is said, we don’t want to hear about it after the show. 12. If these rules or a phone call to us does not say you can do it THEN DON’T. We can’t stress enough to call first. 13. Judges decisions are FINAL!!! IF THE RULES DO NOT SAY YOU CAN DO IT YOU CAN’T!!!!!!!!!! Car Preparation 1. No Fresh Paint or Undercoating on the frames at all. No buffing or grinding frames or bodies except where welding is specifically allowed in these rules. 2. All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules. 3. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby. 4. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed. 5. Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and covered. 6. You must have a number in Bright colors on each front door and must have a 15”x15” sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car. You cannot use the roof sign to strengthen the car. 7. All cars must have working brakes when you cross the ramp. If the car is not able to exhibit the ability to stop it will not be inspected. 8. NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your car or team will not run!! Frame Bumper Bumpers are interchangeable. Any automotive bumper and bumper brackets may be used on any car, but no more than one set of bumper brackets may be used. You can weld bumper brackets or towers to the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock towers. You can collapse shocks, and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with 1⁄2” bolt or less, and it must be done vertically. ** No brackets are allowed to extend any further back than the very front most part of your top-front a-arm bracket factory weld. Instead of using bumper brackets you are allowed to use 1- 4” wide x 3/8” thick strap extending from your bumper down one side of the frame and cannot extend any further back than the very front most part of your top-front a-arm bracket factory weld. You are also allowed to wrap this strap around the front of the frame 4” to create an “L” shape this is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to the strap. Plate may be formed but it cannot double at any point. Do not abuse this rule you will cut it. You may reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper. The bumper chrome must remain the stock shape but you may have metal put inside for reinforcement. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding the bumper skins (chrome to inner liner) is allowed. Weld them solid we do not want them coming off. No welding bumper to the body in any fashion, except on a 71-76 GM Wagon Rear bumper it may be welded to the body if still in factory location. Bumper height not to exceed 24” to the bottom of the bumper to the ground and much be a minimum of 14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper or frame. Bumpers must be in stock location. Front and rear bumpers may have 4 loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed in front of the radiator. If you choose to manufacture a homemade bumper it must conform to the following size limits. It can be no larger than 8”x8”. The point must taper over an area of at least 32” Overall the bumper cannot exceed 12” wide at the tip of the point. The point may only extend out 4” from the flat part of the bumper. The bumper must be completely in front of the frame rails. No part of the bumper may extend back past the front most part of the frame rails. Frame Shortening You may shorten the front frame on a FoMoCo or GM on the front frame only. You may cut the frame off flush with the front edge of the body mount hole. If it is a weld on mount leave the remaining portion of the body mount in place. If you remove the body mount completely or relocate it you will not run. Frame Welding All cars - Re-welding of all factory welded seams from the back of the front most vertical seam in the body mount area under the doors. Chryslers may weld from the back of the body mount bracket under the doors in the firewall area. 1/2" wide weld bead maximum. Factory K-Member cars can weld the K-member solid where they can achieve a bead with no filler metal. Rust Repair Call before fixing any rust on the frame. The rust can be cut out a piece cut exactly to the hole size may be butt welded in. Frame Shaping The only frame shaping that will be allowed on a fresh car will be a total of 22” on the rear hump frame. Do not do any frame shaping at all on fresh cars except the rear hump. In that 22” you can shape all sides for the frame but do not add any metal. If you split the frame from shaping, you are not allowed to weld back together. Front Suspension Tie Rods and Ball Joints - Tie rod tubes may be manufactured but must stay close to the same length and must mount in the same configuration as stock. Do not re-engineer the way the steering components mount to the frame. Only stock car replacement ball joints and tie rod ends are allowed; no pickup or van tie rod ends. A-Arms - A-arms may be welded or bolted down but may not be reinforced. If welded it may only use up to a 2x4x1/8” thick strap. This strap must weld to the a-frame and cannot extend farther forward or backward than 1” past the widest part of the a-frame. You may put older a-arms brackets on newer style Fords, but do it cleanly. If you convert a-arm mounts the bumper bracket will go off the original style mounting location or the new mount. Steering box – May be interchanged but must remain a stock box for a car that is legal in the class you are running. Pitman arms must remain stock or stock replacement Idler Arm – Idler arm must remain stock or interchanged for an idler arm for that is off a car that is legal in the class you are running. Hubs and Rotors – We are allowing specific after-market hubs and these may be purchased from the following shops – Stainless Manufacturing – 715-732-1719 or Fetrow Industries – 402-563-4134. If you have hubs or rotors manufactured somewhere other than these two shops, you must get them approved by us before running them. All dimensions of the hub and bearing must match stock and an actual bearing must be used. Brake calipers must remain stock for the stock spindles and cannot not be modified. Spindles – must be stock for a car that is legal in the class you are running with the exception – you are allowed to weld one – 3⁄4” round rod 6” down the back side of the spindle. Must only be on the spindle to reinforce the spindle it cannot act as a ball joint stop. Rear Suspension Leaf springs must be stock and made of stock spring material, with a 1” stagger and no springs can be as long as the main leaf. You can only have a total of 9 leaf springs per side no thicker than 3/8" thick and no wider than 2 3⁄4” wide. The main leaf must be the top spring in the spring pack and leaf springs must go down from longest to shortest in minimum 1” stagger. You can re-clamp springs, 6 clamps per side with only 4 being homemade. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4”. You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring, you can double the rear springs (they may be tied together in no more than two spots, do not weld them together), or put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other ways except what is listed above. You can bolt, wire, or chain coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out, do not go through body as this would be another body mount. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them from becoming unbolted. You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8” chain or 4 loops of #9 wires) from rear end to frame in 2 spots on each side, must go around frame, do not bolt the chain to the frame. We are going to allow you to weld the chain to the side of the frame, for your chains from the frame to the rear end, you can weld one link only to the side of the frame if you choose to weld the chain instead of wrapping it around the frame. Rear-Ends Use rear end of choice, but must be no more than 10 lugs. You can tilt rear end if you wish. Welded or posi-track highly recommended. Back braces are welcome. Braces may not extend more than 4 1/2” on the outer 10” of a stock size axle tube or 10” on the remaining housing. Rear end control arms can be reinforced. They must have a bushing or at least a bolt and pivot unobstructed what so ever. They may be shortened or made longer. They must attach in stock configuration for the suspension setup you are using. No Hybrid Setups. Watts-Conversion is allowed but all brackets must be only large enough to hold a stock style sized control arm. Control arms must be stock length and not shortened to reinforce the car. All factory brackets must be completely cut off car. A-Arms - A-arms may be welded or bolted down but may not be reinforced. If welded it may only use up to a 2x4x1/8” thick strap. This strap must weld to the a-frame and cannot extend farther forward or backward than 1” past the widest part of the a-frame. You may put older a-arms brackets on newer style Fords, but do it cleanly. If you convert a-arm mounts the bumper bracket will go off the original style mounting location or the new mount. Steering box – May be interchanged but must remain a stock box for a car that is legal in the class you are running. Pitman arms must remain stock or stock replacement Idler Arm – Idler arm must remain stock or interchanged for an idler arm for that is off a car that is legal in the class you are running. Hubs and Rotors – We are allowing specific after-market hubs and these may be purchased from the following shops – Stainless Manufacturing – 715-732-1719 or Fetrow Industries – 402-563-4134. If you have hubs or rotors manufactured somewhere other than these two shops, you must get them approved by us before running them. All dimensions of the hub and bearing must match stock and an actual bearing must be used. Brake calipers must remain stock for the stock spindles and cannot not be modified. Spindles – must be stock for a car that is legal in the class you are running with the exception – you are allowed to weld one – 3⁄4” round rod 6” down the back side of the spindle. Must only be on the spindle to reinforce the spindle it cannot act as a ball joint stop. Rear Suspension Leaf springs must be stock and made of stock spring material, with a 1” stagger and no springs can be as long as the main leaf. You can only have a total of 9 leaf springs per side no thicker than 3/8" thick and no wider than 2 3⁄4” wide. The main leaf must be the top spring in the spring pack and leaf springs must go down from longest to shortest in minimum 1” stagger. You can re-clamp springs, 6 clamps per side with only 4 being homemade. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4”. You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring, you can double the rear springs (they may be tied together in no more than two spots, do not weld them together), or put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other ways except what is listed above. You can bolt, wire, or chain coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out, do not go through body as this would be another body mount. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them from becoming unbolted. You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8” chain or 4 loops of #9 wires) from rear end to frame in 2 spots on each side, must go around frame, do not bolt the chain to the frame. We are going to allow you to weld the chain to the side of the frame, for your chains from the frame to the rear end, you can weld one link only to the side of the frame if you choose to weld the chain instead of wrapping it around the frame. Rear-Ends Use rear end of choice, but must be no more than 10 lugs. You can tilt rear end if you wish. Welded or posi-track highly recommended. Back braces are welcome. Braces may not extend more than 4 1/2” on the outer 10” of a stock size axle tube or 10” on the remaining housing. Rear end control arms can be reinforced. They must have a bushing or at least a bolt and pivot unobstructed what so ever. They may be shortened or made longer. They must attach in stock configuration for the suspension setup you are using. No Hybrid Setups. Watts-Conversion is allowed but all brackets must be only large enough to hold a stock style sized control arm. Control arms must be stock length and not shortened to reinforce the car. All factory brackets must be completely cut off car. Body Shaping You may only shape the body on the exterior of the car. Rust Repair You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal only. Do not cut rust out; weld 2” beyond rust. If your frame is rusted through, call for instructions on how to the fix the rust hole. DO NOT FIX IT WITHOUT CALLING AND EXPECT US TO ALLOW YOU TO RUN IT. If you have to re-stub your frame do so under the front doors but do not support the splice with the cross member. No ’03 and newer rear frames attached to ’02 and older front frames. No re-stubbing cars for Blizzard Bash!!!! #9 Wire Rules You are allowed 2 spots with 4 loops of wire, or up to one strand of 3/8” cable with no larger than 6” turn buckles, no chain in the door window openings and may go to the frame. All #9 wire going through the windows must stay in the passenger compartment and may not be twisted around the cage at all. The cage cannot support these wires in any way. They may touch the cage but if the judges feel the wire will not freely travel by the cage you will be asked to change it. When going through the floor and around the frame it has to go through the flat part of the floor. If you don’t understand please call first. If you chose to weld a washer on the body to run wire through it may only be a 2” sq. washer welded to the body. Nothing may be welded or added to frame to support or route wire. You may run wire from frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This may go around the frame, it may go through a factory frame hole, or you can weld 1 – 3/8 chain link to the side of the frame to run the wire through, but do not reinforce the frame with the chain link or you will cut it off. This wire may pass through the trunk floor if you choose. Radiators For mounting radiators you may use up to 4 – 1/2” all thread. This may pass thru the bottom of the core support. This must not pass thru upper core support. It may be attached to a 2”x 6” 1/8” flat steel and must be welded to the core support they must be outside the fan. No radiator guards allowed. Body Mounts Body mount bolts can be replaced with 1” bolts, body mounts can be replaced with steel or washers but must be 1” thick and have the same diameter as stock spacers. Bolts may extend through body and have up to a 5x5x1/4” square or 6”x1/4” round washer on top, washers must be separate and cannot reinforce the frame. Bolts must be up inside of frame as factory and may have larger washer inside of frame, not to exceed 5” long. If you choose to use a body mount hole for your trunk ready bolt this does not have to be up inside frame, the plate can go on the bottom side of the frame and be no larger than 5x5x1/4”. if you choose to leave in the stock rubber pucks you must leave the metal cones inside the rubber puck. You must leave at least a 3⁄4 space if using the factory rubber spacer. Do not devise a way that enables you to suck them down tight. Mopars are allowed to add one body mount bolt no longer than 8” vertically welded to the frame between the bottom of the rear hump and the rear bumper. This is intended for cars that have a uni- body frame in the rear only. Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid. Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added, do not shorten the front of your car and move back past the body mount hole as your car will not run. If you have to build core support spacers you may weld it either to the body or the frame mount, but only one side can be welded. Core Support Spacers cannot exceed 3” square material. . The front frame must not be shortened to far that the 1” all thread must pass through the factory stamped hole. The all-thread may only be welded to the side of the frame in this location. Chrysler k-member cars can remove the rubber spacers between the frame and k-member and bolt them up tight. Bolts may be replaced with up to 3⁄4” in diameter. Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washer no more than a total of 12 bolts allowed to pinch the hood sheet metal back together. You may cut multiple holes but do not exceed the 12 bolts. You are allowed 8 spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of 4 tie down spots. You may have up to 1” all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame, but must go through the front body mounts, this may be welded to the frame after it passes through the body mount but may not be nutted underneath the body mount if it is welded. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only, and the hold down bolts cannot exceed 8” in length! All hood bolts must be placed outside the windshield bars. You may have plates for hood tie down, not to exceed 5x5x1/4” square or 6” x1/4” round. Front core support cannot be moved back from its factory location. It must stay bolted to the fenders the same way that it came factory. You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with 5 -3/8” bolts or less with 1.25” diameter washers. No rolling your fenders and welding them. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the core support do not exceed 4 – 3/8” bolts with 1.25” washers to bolt back to the core support of fender. Windshield Bars and Firewall Firewall – You are allowed to lay the firewall flat by cutting reliefs and pounding flat. If you shape the firewall or weld it to reinforce it, you will cut the firewall out anywhere it is deemed to be reinforced. If you add any metal to the firewall you will be loaded without the opportunity to fix it. Window Bars - For safety, all cars must have (2) windshield bars extending from the roof of the car to the firewall/dash, straps cannot be any larger than 3/8"x3" flat strap, and must be 14” apart at firewall. If and only if you remove the firewall/dash completely between the straps you are allowed to connect these two bars. The removed part must be completely removed and must be as wide as the vertical bars. The horizontal bars connecting the two vertical bars cannot be any larger than 3/8"x3" straps. No more than 6" of strap material allowed on the roof and no more than 6" of strap material allowed on the firewall. Do not go over 6" on roof or firewall or you will cut. Window bars cannot come into contact with any braces or protectors. Doors You may weld your doors shut with nothing larger than 3” by 1/8” strap and must follow the door seam. Do not overlap strap or you will cut the strap off. You may fold tops of doors over and weld the outer skin and inner skin together but you are not allowed to add any material. If you chose must be tied shut in six locations using 1⁄2” bolts no longer than 6”, 3/8 Chain, or #9 wire. If we do not deem the car safe to compete you will add more fastening points. You are allowed to add bracing to the exterior side of the driver’s door. This bracing must not stick any further out than 2” from the door, and may not have any sharp edges. You are also allowed to carry the bracing up to 6” past the exterior door seam either forward or backward. Cage All cage material must be no larger than 6” od, unless specified for a specific rule smaller. It must also be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except the down legs going straight down. No cage material may be within 6” of the firewall and be a minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel. You may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X do not connect directly to frame, and you may also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your dash area to replace your dash. You may run a bar connecting the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front doors only. You may weld two down bars from the cage to the frame vertically or to the floor to protect batteries and your feet. These down bars must remain behind the inside door seem and may only be welded to the top side of the frame. These bars cannot not exceed 2”x3”. You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be welded or bolted to the roof. You may also weld a steering column to the cage. Back of cage including roll bar has to be placed: Ford and GM - a minimum of 5” in front of the center of the rear seat body mount. Mopars are allowed to run a 1” bolt with a 5" plate on both sides (frame and body) in the front most frame hole in the rear frame. You are then allowed to weld a kicker from the door bar and weld to the top of this plate. It can be a maximum of 2x3” square tubing. All Mopar cage material must be 5” forward from the center of this body mount hole other than the kicker explained prior. Some Mopars have a very tight passenger compartment and you may need to run the halo through the small back window, mainly Cordobas, call first. No straps may connect from the firewall to the dash bar – nothing can extend any closer than 6” to the firewall including cage compenents. All battery boxes and gas pedal, and any plate attached to it must be at least 2” away from any engine or transmission protector. Gas Tank Protector - You must run a gas tank protector. It cannot attach to anything other than your cage. It must be centered between your frame humps. It cannot exceed 24” wide. It can angle in from your roll over protection. It must be a full 1” away from rear sheet metal, which cannot be removed. The bracing must be 4” above all floor sheet metal, which cannot be removed, measured from the highest flat area of the floor in the rear seat area. Rear Window Bar – You are allowed a rear window bar which may not be any larger than 2” sq od. This bar must be centered in the car and only extend on the roof for 6”. The bar must be in contact with the front trunk seam and can only extend 6” on the trunk and must stay on top of the trunk lid. Fuel Tank, Oil Coolers, & Transmission Coolers Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well-made fuel cell, and it must be properly secured and covered. Only metal tanks may be used. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat use to be. No other source of gas inside the car at all. Engine coolers are allowed. These coolers cannot be placed to reinforce the car. No bolts may extend through the frame to create a body mount. Trunks You can fold hoods or trunk lid over. Do not slide your hood or trunk forward or back, trunk must remain on hinges. Truck lids must have a six-inch hole cut in the first 60% for inspection purposes, inspection hole may have 3 -3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washer bolting the two layers back together. YOUR TRUNK LID MAY BE V’D IN THE CENTER, BUT MUST REMAIN AT LEAST 10” OFF THE TRUNK FLOOR, the 10” will be measured from the top of the frame rails not the spare tire hole. If you tuck the trunk lid to the trunk floor you can only use a total of 12” of weld to attach it to the floor. Rear quarters may not be laid over to make a trunk seam. 2-1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame or trunk pan, if it passes through a body mount hole you must have a 1” spacer between the body and frame. Trunk lids may be chained/ wired/welded/ bolted from sheet metal to sheet metal. Chryslers may weld all thread to side of frame but the all thread must be vertical and go up through the deck lid, or they can go through the frame if they so choose. Short Trunk GM cars – If you run ready bolt through the front body mount they must be slightly bent to make sure they go through the trunk lid. If the trunk is completely in the stock location on a pre-73 Mopar it can be weld all the way across the rear seam to the bumper. Mopars are allowed to add one body mount bolt no longer than 8” vertically welded to the frame between the bottom of the rear hump and the rear bumper. This is intended for cars that have a unibody frame in the rear only.GM Wagons must remove all rear decking and seat components. All other rules above must be followed. Hump plates are allowed - 22" long, 4" tall, must be on one side of the frame, contoured to the frame, and centered in the hump. Repair plates - On pre-run cars you are allowed 8 - 6"x6"x1/8" plates if not running hump plates 6 - 6"x6"x1/8" plates if running hump plates. All plates must be a minimum of 1" apart including the weld.
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