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Post by meatman on Mar 2, 2011 23:06:23 GMT -5
The Linn Picnic Demo Derby will be July 9, 2011 at the Linn City Park in Linn Kansas. DDT Derbyteam will be the officiating crew this year. At this time we are working on the payouts, they should be similar to what they have been the past few years. Scot will be posting the rules on here shortly, if you have any questions concerning the rules you can call Scot at 785-562-8642. We are also working on the Figure 8 Race at this time. More info to follow. Hope to see you at the derby.
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Post by meatman on Mar 6, 2011 15:35:43 GMT -5
2011 LINN PICNIC FIGURE 8 RACE/DEMO DERBY FIGURE 8 Races July 8th DEMOLITION DERBY JULY 9th Full Size – 80s and Newer – Compact Classes
If car does not pass inspection or driver is unwilling to change car to pass inspection - absolutely no refunds!! 1. All rules will be followed, or you will not run!! 2. Any American make sedan or station wagon can be run. No 1970 or older Lincoln’s! No 1973 or Older imperials or Imperial sub-frames/ frames, No 03 or newer Fords, 4x4’s, ambulances, hearses, trucks, limousines, etc… 3. Drivers must be 18 years of age and have a valid driver’s license. Ages 14 –17 must have a notarized permission slip and some form of driver’s license. The person that signs in as the driver must be the driver for that event! 4. Driver must wear seat belt and helmet, along with eye protection. 5. ALL drivers must attend the drivers meeting. 6. DO NOT hit the driver’s door! Sometimes this happens, but if it looks intentional or carelessness, you will be disqualified. Don’t use your door as a shield; it may cause you to get disqualified. 7. No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle. 8. Any open driver’s door or fire will cause disqualification. If in heat, you may fix it and come back in the consolation. 9. NO sandbagging or holding!!! You will be disqualified! You are given 20 seconds for aggressive hits, 1 minute for restarts and 1 minute if you are hung up. 10. No alcohol in the pits, if anyone is caught with alcohol, they will be disqualified, this includes their pit crew. 11. Cars are subject to re-inspection before any prize money is handed out. 12. Any controversies will be taken up at the drivers meeting. 13. Any questions give us a call! If it doesn’t say you can do it, don’t do it. Call 1st!! Judges decisions are FINAL!!! Car Preparation 1. All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules. 2. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby. 3. All decking in station wagons MUST be removed!!! 4. Tires no bigger than 15 inch, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or Doubled tires OK-we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors OK. Tires may be screwed to rims. 5. Driver must have a fire coat or non-flammable jacket to wear while driving in event. 6. Driver must have safety approved glasses or face shield. Driver needs to have FULL faced helmets. 7. You must use a radiator and it must be in stock location. All cars must have working brakes. 9. A-arms, ball joints remain stock. 10. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed. 11. Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell and it must be properly secured and covered. No gas cans. Plastic gas tanks must be placed in a metal box!! Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat, use to be. Compacts read additional rules on back!
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Post by meatman on Mar 6, 2011 15:36:41 GMT -5
SUSPENSION: 11. Suspension must be at stock height. Leaf springs must be stock, you may add one spring as long as the main leaf spring, you can't wrap the added leaf spring to make a double main - tow packages OK. The Main leaf spring must be the top spring in the spring pack and leaf springs must stagger down with at least a 2 inch stagger from longest to smallest. You can re-clamp springs, 6 clamps per side homemade or factory. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4 inch. You can put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height. You can bolt or wire coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them from becoming unbolted. You can loop chain or wire from rear end to frame in 1 spots on each side. No bigger than #9 wire or 1/2” chain or cable may be used. 12. Mopars can weld mounting brackets to uni-body where leaf springs are mounted factory to uni-body frame. Include rear shackle box. 13. Rear-end control arms may be reinforced, but must be workable. They may be shortened or made longer as well. No Homemade!! 14. Use rear end of choice, must be factory 5 lugs. You can tilt rear end if you wish. Welded or posi-track highly recommended 15. Rear-end Housings may be re-enforced. Hybrid rear-ends are allowed *****16. Front arms may be bolted or chained down to get your bumper height. ENGINE MOUNTING: 17. Engine mounts may be welded to engine cradle. Engine must be mounted in stock location. 18. Use motor and tranny of choice, motor must be in stock location. You may chain or weld motor and tranny to keep in place (don’t strengthen the frame). 19. You may have a 2-2” strap from the motor head to frame on top side of frame next to A-arm on front side of motor and can be welded with no added metal! You will be allowed 2- 2” straps on the rear of the motor connected from the motor heads to the Frame, but must be on the top side of frame within 3 inches of the back side of A-arms. If this is used to re-enforce frame, straps will be cut! STEERING: 20. Tie-rods ends must be stock, but the center can be re-enforced, A-arms, ball joints and all other steering/suspension must remain stock. You may alter your steering column to prevent loss of steering. Steering knuckles, homemade steering shafts, etc. FENDERS: 21. You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance & you may weld fender over tire back together. Fenders may also be bolted together with 5-3/8” bolts or each. The rear quarter panel is considered part of the rear fender. MISC: 22. For safety, you are allowed 1 strap in each door window opening straps can be 2” wide – ¼” thick and can be welded 5” on the door & 5” on the roof – you may not use wire if you use straps ** Hardtop cars may have another strap at the door post. You must have 2 bars in windshield from roof to dash for safety reasons. 23. You can run shifter through floor and you can have a switch panel. You may also have a hand throttle. If you are running an electric fuel pump – must be hooked up to your ignition switch – so when your car shuts off – it shuts off. 24. You are allowed 2 spots with 4 loops of wire (no cable or chain) in each window opening and may go to the frame. No welding washers around holes on car body. 25. You may run wire from frame rail to frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear-end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain/cable in 1 spot only. This must go around the frame, this can not be bolted to the frame. 26. You are allowed to weld Factory body seams weld 6 skip 6. Body seams
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Post by meatman on Mar 6, 2011 15:38:00 GMT -5
only NOT FRAME!!!!!!! ***27. 80’s cars will be allowed Dist. Cap Protector only if they are against OLD IRON cars. The protector must be mounted to engine heads and intake only. There must be 12 inches of clearance between the Dist. Cap protector and the dash bar at the start of the event. Dist. Cap protector can't be mounted to body, frame or cage. Dist. Cap Protector or firewall sheet metal. RUST REPAIR & FRAME REPAIR: 28. You may repair rusted out sheet metal with sheet metal only. Leave the rust in place and repair over it. Rusted out frames may be repaired with 1/8 inch or less. You are allowed to weld the patch 2 inches past the rusted out area, leave the rust in place. 29. Bent frames my be repaired with 1/8 inch metal 2 inches past the bend, but only on 1 side of the frame. The patch may be welded solid, but you must have a 1/2 inch hole in the patch. You can only repair the frame once in each place. No re-patching or layering of patches. 30. No fresh undercoating in frames. We have the right to make you burn it off. COMPACT CLASS: In addition to the above rules- 4 & 6 Cylinders only. 1. Any-Front wheel driver compact car with 108” or less wheel base but rear wheel driver cars must have a 106” or less wheelbase. 2. If the stock gas tank is located under the car but in front of rear axle, the stock gas tank may be used. Questions? Call Scot at 785-562-8642
Payouts will be posted within the next couple of weeks
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Post by meatman on Mar 27, 2011 16:36:33 GMT -5
2011 Linn Picnic Demolition Derby July 9, 2011 5:00 PM Linn City Park Linn, Kansas FULLSIZE CARS 1st Place - $1800.00 + Plaque 2nd Place - $1300.00 + Plaque 3rd Place - $1000.00 + Plaque 4th Place - $500.00 5th Place - $300.00 6th Place - $250.00 7th Place - $150.00 $50.00 to Heat Winners 80’s & NEWER CARS 1st - $300.00 2nd – $200.00 3rd - $100.00 Top 3 cars in this class advance to Main Final, rest of this class goes to consolation heat for a chance to go to the Main Final COMPACT CARS 1st – $400.00 2nd – $300.00 3rd - $100.00 4th – $50.00 5th – $35.00 Drivers from all classes will be entered into a drawing for $500.00 THIS DRAWING IS FOR DEMO DRIVERS ONLY $35.00 Entry Fee for Car and Driver $20.00 Pit Pass All Cars must be Checked in by 4:00 PM Compact Rules are the same as Full Size Cars (See last sheet of rules for more compact car rules)
For more information on rules, please contact Scot @ 785-562-8642
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Post by meatman on Mar 27, 2011 16:42:32 GMT -5
2011 Linn Picnic Figure 8 Race July 8, 2010 6:30 PM Start Linn City Park Linn, Kansas FULL SIZE 1st Place - $800.00 + Plaque 2nd Place - $500.00 + Plaque 3rd Place - $300.00 + Plaque 4th Place - $200.00 5th Place - $100.00 6th Place - $75.00 7th Place - $50.00 COMPACT CLASS 1st - $300.00 2nd - $200.00 3rd - $100.00 4th - $75.00 5th - $50.00 6th - $35.00 35.00 Entry Fee for Car and Driver 20.00 Pit Pass For more information on rules, please contact Scot @ 785-562-8642
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Post by meatman on Jun 15, 2011 0:33:30 GMT -5
TTT ;D
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Post by jklein68 on Jun 18, 2011 0:08:28 GMT -5
***27. 80’s cars will be allowed Dist. Cap Protector only if they are against OLD IRON cars. The protector must be mounted to engine heads and intake only. There must be 12 inches of clearance between the Dist. Cap protector and the dash bar at the start of the event. Dist. Cap protector can't be mounted to body, frame or cage. Dist. Cap Protector or firewall sheet metal. Does this mean that after the 80s heat the eighties cars can add a distributor protector before they go to the consie or the main? I did not see any rule stating specifics on frame welding, body mounts, or bumper mounting
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Post by jklein68 on Jun 18, 2011 0:11:58 GMT -5
The blue rapids rules however say A arms forward on top seam can be welded, if the rules crossover, as it says on the blue rapids thread that linn cars can run there
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Post by meatman on Jun 19, 2011 22:23:00 GMT -5
Jacob,the best thing to do on your question is to call Scot, tell the 8-)OLD man Hi, Hope to see you guys again this year for the race and derby
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Post by ddtmotorsports on Jun 21, 2011 14:14:40 GMT -5
Yes.. ANY car that is built for the Linn Rules can be ran at the Blue Rapids Derby.. Just as ANY car that is built to the Blue Rapids Rules can be ran at the Linn Derby..
Been getting a lot of response to this show!!!.. Should be a good turnout!!!..
Dont forget about the Figure 8 race!!.. Great payout for full size and compact cars!!!..
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Post by ddtmotorsports on Jun 21, 2011 14:20:51 GMT -5
Also if you have any questions about the rules just give me a call at 785-562-8642...
Scot Tormondson
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Post by meatman on Jul 3, 2011 11:16:47 GMT -5
Less than a week away ;D ;D
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Post by crusher71 on Jul 3, 2011 22:28:40 GMT -5
HOW MANY CARS USUALLY SHOW? WHAT WAS THE COUNT LAST YEAR?
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Post by meatman on Jul 4, 2011 11:31:36 GMT -5
There was 12 last year, but we have been getting alot of calls from people that have never been here before that have showed alot of interest, talk has been that there will be a very good turnout this year.
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