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Post by outlawsthe1 on Jul 4, 2014 14:50:53 GMT -5
Stock Rules
1. ALL RULES WILL BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NOT RUN.
2. Any American make car can run with the following exceptions. No 2003 and newer FoMoCo frames. No 1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Imperial sub-frames, 4x4’s, ambulance, hearses, trucks, limousines, etc…
3. Drivers must be 18 years of age. Ages 16-17 must have a NOTARIZED permission slip and a valid driver’s license.
4. The person that signs in as the driver – must be the driver for the event.
5. Driver must wear a seat belt, helmet, FIRE SUIT JACKET.
6. All Drivers and Crew Members must attend the drivers meeting.
7. No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle. This will be the quickest way to be DISQUALIFIED.
8. Any open door or fire will cause disqualification, for that heat, of that particular car not the team.
9. You are given 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that particular car will be disqualified, not the team.
10. No drivers are allowed alcohol - period. If you are wearing a drivers band and drinking any form of Alcohol -YOU WILL BE DISQUALIFIED.
11. Cars will be re-inspected before any prize money is paid out. The cars will be re-inspected by the head judges, and Sam Williams only. Everyone else will stay back until cars are deemed to be legal.
12. There is a $250.00 protest fee, and you must be a driver in the main event to protest another driver’s car. Driver must have cash in hand directly after the feature in order to protest. If the car is found to be illegal the car and driver will be escorted off the grounds and will not receive any prize money.
13. Any complaints that a driver has about another car prior to the start of the first heat will need to be addressed in the drivers meeting in specifics. If nothing is said, we don’t want to hear about it after the show.
14. Any questions, give us a call: Trent Conkle- 1-620-364-6391. If these rules or a phone call to us does not say you can do it THEN DON’T. We can’t stress enough to call first.
15. Judges decisions are FINAL!!!
Car Preparation
**No Fresh Paint or Under coating on Frame**
1. All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
2. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
3. Tires no bigger than 15 inch, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or doubled tires are ok – we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims.
4. Use motor and tranny of choice, motor must be in stock location. You may chain or weld motor and tranny to keep in place, but don’t strategically strengthen the frame. The engine mounts may only attach to the engine cross member.
5. You must run the transmission cross member in the stock location you can weld 2” angle iron no thicker than 3/16”, no longer than 6” to the side of the frame to support the cross member. If you pre-bend your frame do not use angle iron to re-support the bent area. The transmission cross member is the only method my which the transmission may be tied in.
6. Use rear end of choice, but must be no more than 8 lugs. You can tilt rear end if you wish. Welded or posi-track highly recommended. Back braces are welcome.
7. You must use a radiator and it must be in stock location.
8. All cars must have working brakes.
9. A-arms, ball joints, and tie-rods ends must remain stock. Tie rod tubes may not be reinforced in any way.
10. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
11. Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell, and it must be properly secured and covered. Only metal tanks may be used. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat use to be.
12. Transmission coolers are allowed, but must be safe and properly secured.
13. Batteries must be moved to passenger front floorboard. They must be properly secured and covered.
14. You must have a number in Bright colors on each front door and must have a 15”x15” sign on the roof of your car with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car.
Car Building
1. NO welding will be allowed on any part of the body or frame unless specified in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you will not run – this is a stock no-weld class. IF YOUR CAR IS FOUND TO HAVE WELD ANYWHERE OTHER THAN SPECIFIED AND IT CANNOT BE FIXED PROPERLY WITH A TORCH YOU will not run! I'm allowing 24 inches of frame welding per frame rail from the firewall forward. And that's frame not welding a-arms! 2. All doors may be welded or chained shut. Driver’s door may be welded inside and outside. If chained six chains per side for a four-door car. Four chains per side for a two-door car. No chains longer than 3’. Do not wrap chains around cage. If welded strap no larger than 3”x1/8” flat strap may be used weld 5 leave 5 and only outside of doors may be welded.
3. For driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X do not connect directly to frame, and you may also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your dash area to replace your dash .You may run a bar connecting the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front doors only. You may weld two down bars from the cage to the frame vertically or to the floor to protect batteries and your feet. These down bars must remain behind the inside door seem and may only be welded to the top side of the frame. These bars cannot not exceed 2”x3”. You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be welded or bolted to the roof. You may also weld a steering column to the cage. Back of cage including roll bar has to be placed: Ford and GM - a minimum of 5” in front of the center of the rear seat body mount. Mopars are allowed to run a 1” bolt with a 5" plate on both sides (frame and body) in the front most frame hole in the rear frame. Gas tank protector is ok nothing wider than 24 inches.
**Please reinforce your driver’s door very good, in this type of competition all drivers doors will take some type of hit during the event. We want you to be safe and protected behind your reinforcement.**
All Cage material cannot extend further forward than 6” behind the flat part of the firewall directly behind the engine.
4. Bumpers are interchangeable. No homemade bumpers or reinforcements. You may weld the chrome solid to the backing. You can either run the factory bumper bracket that matches the bumper or one that matches the car no exceptions! You can weld the bumper brackets to the frame and and the bumpers to the brackets. Weld them good we don't want them falling off!! No added filler material to weld them.
5. Trunks – May have 6 fastening points, if you run the trunk hinges these count as two fastening points. You may also have 2-1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame, MUST go through body mount hole, and you must have a spacer between the body and frame, this will count as two of the six fastening points. If you are running the trunk hinges you may be chain from sheet metal to sheet metal in two other locations. If you do not run trunk hinges you can chain in four locations. Chryslers can either go through the frame or weld all thread to side of frame but the all thread must be vertical. Trunk lid must be open for inspection!
6. You can fold hoods or trunk lid over, but 60% of the hood/trunk lid must be factory location. Do not slide your hood or trunk forward or back this would mean that 0% would be in the factory location. 7. Hood must have at least a 12 inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washer a maximum of 6 per hole. If you choose to cut one large hole in your hood you may weld it or bolt it back together with 3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washers a maximum of 10 per hole. You are allowed 6 spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of 4 tie down spots. You may have up to 1” all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame, but must go through the front body mounts. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only!
7. You may have plates for hood tie down, not to exceed 5x5x1/4”square or 6” x1/4” round. If you use the stock hood hinges these count as two fastening points.
8. Body mount bolts may be replaced with a 3/4in bolt and two inch washer on top and bottom. You must put a 1” spacer between the frame and body. You may use a 5”x5”x1/4” plates. The radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid and if you choose to run the 1” all thread through the trunk it may be modified according to rule #5. Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added. Do not add bolts, wire, chain, or cable in any fashion from the body to the frame other than stated in these rules. Chrysler k-member cars – do not remove the rubber pucks between the frame and the k-frame.
9. You can patch rust holes on the floor boards of the car with sheet metal only, no other patching without permission. Do not cut rust out; weld 2” beyond rust. If your frame is rusted through, call for instructions on how to the fix the rust hole. Do not fix it without calling and expect us to allow you to run it.
10. Suspension must be stock height. Leaf springs must be stock and made of stock spring material, with a 1”stagger and no springs can be as long as the main leaf. The main leaf must be the top spring in the spring pack and leaf springs must go down from longest to shortest in minimum 1” stagger. You can re-clamp springs, 4 clamps per side. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4”. You can put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other ways except spacers in or on the springs. You can bolt or wire coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out. Coil springs may be doubled and tied together in no more than two spots. Do not weld the coil springs together if you double them. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them from becoming unbolted. You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8” chain or 4 loops of #9 wire) from rear end to frame in 1 spot on each side. You cannot leaf non-leaf cars. No solid suspension.
11. Rear end control arms must remain stock.
12. Steering/suspension must be remain stock unless noted.
13. You can run shifter through the floor, and you can have a switch panel. If you are running an electric fuel pump, it must be hooked up to your ignition switch, so when your car shuts off so does the fuel pump.
14. You may alter your steering column to prevent steering loss.
15. You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with 5 -3/8” bolts or less with 1.25” diameter washers. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the core support do not bolt them back to the core support of fender.
16. For safety, you must have 2 bars in windshield from roof to dash for safety reasons. Bars may not exceed 3”x3/8” flat strap, and may only have 3” on the roof and 3” on dash or cowl. Bars may be tied together but may not be tied to the cage. They must attach to sheet metal only.
17. No distributor protectors, transmission braces, skid plates, or mid plates.
18. No radiator guards
19. You may alter your .
20. I know how elaborate and difficult the distributor protectors are to take on and off, so if you leave it on your engine you must cut the firewall at least 3 inches wider on each side and remove it. This go's for mid plates as well.
Wagons
1. All rear decking must be removed from all wagons.
2. You may chain humps.
3. Rear side windows can have #9 wire with 4 loops of wire (no cable or chain) in one location going down to sheet metal.
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Post by outlawsthe1 on Jul 4, 2014 14:57:48 GMT -5
This show will be a stock class and a compact class. Compact rules and payout will be posted later. Compacts will run the same rules as all the Pay Up Sucker shows. Any questions call or text me.1-620-364-6391 Trent Conkle
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Post by outlawsthe1 on Jul 30, 2014 18:21:20 GMT -5
I will allow the body bolts to be up to 3/4 in. Payouts will be posted by the end of the week and it will be guaranteed! The only way it will change is that there are more sponsors donating as we speak and that means it will just go up. With what we have so far it is shaping up to be a very good payout for the first time having a show in Leroy Ks. Any questions feal free to call or text me. Thanks- Trent. 620-364-6391
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Post by outlawsthe1 on Aug 7, 2014 19:56:39 GMT -5
Payouts- Full size 1st- 1750.00 2nd- 1250.00 3rd- 750.00 4th- 500.00 5th- 250.00 Compacts 1st- 800.00 2nd- 500.00 3rd- 300.00 That payout is guaranteed- we are still trying for more sponsors so the payouts could possibly go up from there. Thanks we hope to see a good turnout for this show even though the rules are a little different than other shows in the area. We're just trying to get another show in Southeast kansas for drivers to compete at.
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Post by pitman11 on Aug 11, 2014 10:06:38 GMT -5
Compact Rules
1. ALL RULES WILL BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NOT RUN.
2. Any compact car with the following specs; 105” Maximum Wheel Base for Rear Wheel Drive, 108” Maximum Wheel Base for Front Wheel Drive. Four Wheel drive cars must remove front drive shaft.
3. Drivers must be 18 years of age. Ages 16-17 must have a NOTARIZED permission slip and a valid driver’s license.
4. The person that signs in as the driver – must be the driver for the event.
5. Driver must wear a seat belt, helmet, FIRE SUIT JACKET (no more exceptions to the fire jacket rule).
6. All Drivers and Crew Members must attend the drivers meeting.
7. No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle. This will be the quickest way to be DISQUALIFIED.
8. Any open door or fire will cause disqualification, for that heat, of that particular car not the team.
9. You are given 1 minute to make an aggressive hit. After 1 minute that particular car will be disqualified, not the team. You are only given 1 minute in total, not 1 minute to get started and 1 minute to hit.
10.
11. Cars will be re-inspected before any prize money is paid out. Everyone else will stay back until cars are deemed to be legal.
12.
13. Any complaints that a driver has about another car prior to the start of the first heat will need to be addressed in the drivers meeting in specifics. If nothing is said, we don’t want to hear about it after the show.
14. any ?'s call
15. Judges decisions are FINAL!!!
Small Car wheelbase is 108" maximum no full frame CARS, compact trucks under 108” allowed, 6 cylinder maximum
CAGES & DOOR BARS:
- You may use channel or tubing up to 6" for the door bars. Total length is not to exceed 60". This bar may not be more than 18" behind the center post on 4 door cars and 10" behind the door seam on 2 door cars - no exceptions.
- Dash bar and seat bars may not exceed 5" diameter. Seat bar must be no further than 10" behind the seat. All bars must be straight pieces no contoured pieces.
- Sedans only, are allowed a gas tank protector, 24” X 6” inches, centered in the back seat area. There must be a 1” space between the back bar and all sheet metal, may not be attached to anything other than back seat bar. All interior sheet metal must remain in stock position. Do not pound!
- You may add a diagonal bar behind the driver’s seat and directly below the seat bar running from the seat bar to the floor sheet metal.
- Back bar may form an “X”
- You may add 4 VERTICAL down bars, welded to your cage and to the floor sheet metal or frame. These bars may not attach to or conceal a body mount.
- No kickers, angled or otherwise. NO cage components may be welded to the frame other than down bars and halo.
- All horizontal cage components must be at least 4" off the floor of the car, including gas tank protector, measured at the body bolt elevation.
- All cage components must be in the interior of the car, not inside the door structure with the exception of
the driver’s side. This door bar MAY be inside the door structure to allow more room for driver’s safety.
HALO OR ROLLOVER BARS:
- You may add a halo bar to the cage components listed above. It may not exceed 5" in diameter.
- On a 4-door post car, this bar must attach to the seat bar, no exceptions.
- On a 2-door or 4-door non-post car, this bar may be attached to the floor sheet metal or frame.
- Halo bars may NOT be angled toward the rear of the car. They must be vertical.
-You may bolt or weld the halo bar to the roof sheet metal in 4 places.
SKID PLATES:
- Skid plates are allowed. They must be separate plated for the engine and the transmission.
- NO full-length skid plates.
- NO bolting or welding the skid plated to the frame.
TRUNK LIDS:
- Trunk lids must remain 50% in the stock location. The trunk lid must remain on hinges.
- You may fasten your trunk lid in ALL OF THE FOLLOWING 3 ways:
- You may weld solid with 3" x 1/4" strap max.
- AND -You may weld 4 pieces of 5/8" all thread vertically to the rear frame rails and run them thru the trunk lid. No double nutting. You may use a 5" washer on the trunk lid bolts, plates may not be welded and must be free-floating.
- AND -You may place up to 16 - 3/8" bolts in the drip rail area of the trunk lid.
- There must be 12" minimum hole in the trunk lid for inspection purposes.
- Relocation of the speaker deck is not allowed it must remain in the stock location, no relocation of any sheet metal or components. Your trunk lid may be V’ed in the center.
- No fully wedged cars, rear quarters must remain vertical.
HOODS:
- Hoods may be bolted, wired or chained shut ONLY.
- You may use 8 bolts to hold the hood, may be 1" all thread max.
- The 2 front bolts may go thru the frame or welded vertically to the frame. The other 4 must be sheet metal to sheet metal.
- If you use chain or wire, you may weld up to 5" washers to the hood. If bolting, the 5" washers must be free floating.
-You may install up to 12 - 3/8" bolts or self tapping screws per hood cutout. Maximum of 3 cut outs. Maximum washer size is 1" diameter. Cutouts may be for header clearance, air breather clearance or radiator fill opening only. These bolts may NOT be installed in any area other than the immediate perimeter of the cut out.
- NO welding of cut outs is allowed.
- You must have a minimum 10" hole in the hood for fire protection.
- Hoods must be open at inspection time.
DOORS:
- Doors may be welded solid, outside only, 3" x 1/4" strap maximum.
-You may smash the inner and outer skin together and weld them solid, NO added metal. This includes wagon tailgates
- If you do not weld your doors you must chain or #9 wire them closed in at least 2 spots. You may NOT bolt your doors shut.
- Drivers door may have window netting for driver’s safety. NO other windows may have netting.
- You may weld a plate Maximum 6" x 1/4" across the front doors for protection, not to exceed 6" beyond the front door seams. NO GRADER BLADES. These plates must be in the center of the door, run horizontally.
- Wagon tail gates may be welded, 5 on 5 off, not solid, **OR** you may bolt the tailgate. 4 bolts, 4 nuts, 3/4” max **OR** you may weld 5” pieces of angle to the tailgate and quarters and use 3/4 “ max bolts.- pick 1 not all 3.
- Compact trucks may weld the cab to the bed on both sides the same as a door or trunk seam.
WINDOWS:
- You must have a piece of rebar/all thread/chain(3/8 max),#9 wire or 2”X1/4” straps running from the roof to the cowl in the windshield area for drivers protection, up to 2 pieces max. This may not be designed as reinforcement to the car and must be space at least 12 inches apart on the bottom, unless forming a “V” from A-pillar to A-pillar and no cross connections. No component may be welded within 6 inches of the DP.
- 2 rear window bars are allowed from roof sheet metal (not halo) to the trunk lid within 8” of the front trunk seam. 2” max diameter or 2”x2”
- You may use 2 loops, 4 strands of #9 wire total in each window opening. This wire may go to or around the frame.
- Wagons may not use wire in any window opening beyond the rear passenger door window opening.
OTHER:
- Body creasing, enhancing of existing body lines and addition of body lines is allowed to the sides of the car only.
- No doubling of body panels allowed, no added metal allowed
- Quarter panels must remain vertical.
- NO SEAM WELDING other than what is stated in these rules.
- Rewelding of body seam from the front of the a-arms forward only is allowed.
- Washers for #9 wire may be welded to the roof sheet metal. They may be a maximum of 1 ½" diameter. No washers may be welded for future wire installation.
- Holes may be cut in the floor & firewall to accommodate the shifter, fuel lines, and transmission lines.
- You may cut a hole in the firewall to accommodate the engine, within reason.
- You may have up to 8 - 3/8" bolts with 1¼” washers to bolt fenders together in each wheel opening.
- Excess front fender in front of radiator support may be cut off or folded over and bolted or welded back together. Four 3/8” bolts (1¼” washers) allowed per fender for this, no added metal.
- Sway bars may not be welded to frame, but brackets can.
ENGINES:
- no v8's, but it must be mounted within 5" of the original motor.
- You may chain the motor, 2 chains per side, 3/8 max.
- You may attached a strap on all four corners of engine going down to the frame, this strap may be welded directly to the top or side of the frame only, not to exceed 3/8” thick by 3” wide strap. The straps on the front of the motor cannot extend on the frame any more than 3” past the front of the head and cannot extend backwards at all. The straps on the rear of the motor cannot extend back on the frame any more than 3” past the back of the head and cannot extend forward at all. These straps can be connected from front to back, but the connection piece must be at least 3” from the frame and not to interfere with the A-Arm. Motor cradles are ok and can be welded to the cross member.
- You may weld in additional supports to the engine cradle area, but they may not be attached to the frame rails at any point. Only allowed for holding engine in place.
- No engine oil coolers are allowed.
- You must have an air cleaner over the carburetor at all times.
- No starting fluid is allowed.
- Allowed to secure K member in the following ways:
Remove pucks and bolt tight to frame, stock size bolts only.
Leave pucks in between and weld 4 - 3 inch welds, total (not per side) of 12 inches only with wire only NO filler.
DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTORS/CRADLES:
- If you run a DP do not mount your dash bar closer than 5 inches to the rear most point of the firewall fresh, YOU WILL NOT RUN.
-Distributor protectors allowed, must be attached to engine or transmission only, back side must be no wider than 12 inches, must not contact cage before the event. It may not be welded, bolted or connected to body, hood or frame.
- Aftermarket Distributor protectors, cradles and pulley protectors are allowed. These must be separate items and may not all be connected for a complete engine protector system. If you use a front plate it may not be gusseted to header flanges or other components in any manner with the exception to 4 cylinder motors. No “extreme” engine systems.
-You may beat flat the engine side of the firewall only, do not weld or bolt firewall. Do not re-enforce the firewall in any way.
TRANSMISSIONS:
- Transmissions must be of passenger car or truck origin, transmission coolers may be used, but they must be secured in such a way to prevent injury.
- Metal or braided lines must be used. No fuel or low-pressure lines may be used.
- Coolers must be secured in a container in the passenger compartment of the car.
- You can weld 2” angle iron no thicker than ¼”, and no longer than 6” to the side of the frame to support the cross member. If you pre-bend your frame, you may not use this angle iron to reinforce your bend.
REAR ENDS:
- You may use any type of rear end (Ford / Mopar / GM / Hybrid) but 5 lug max.
- You may tilt the rear end by lengthening or shortening the trailing arms. Trailing arms must be of passenger car origin and must operate. Trailing arms may be reinforced but must be OEM origin.
- Rear end braces are allowed, but they may serve no purpose other than to strengthen the rear end housing. They may not extend from the rear end further than 6” and may not be higher than the top of the housing.
BODY BOLTS:
- All body bolts may be replaced with up to 1" bolts, maximum 8" length.
- Core support bolts may be 1" diameter. Core support bolts may go thru the hood and count as 2 of your 8 hood bolts.
- You may use pipe up to 1 ½" OD to run the core support all thread thru. These pipes may be welded to the core support using 3/16" strapping, 2 -5" pieces max per pipe.
- Washers must be free floating inside the car and inside the frame on the bottom side.
- Do NOT weld the body washers to the floor. Maximum washer size is 6" x 1/4".
- Space must be maintained between the body and the frame; Minimum 3/4".
- You may add 2 body mounts in the position of your choice. They must be painted for easy viewing.
- If you decide to bolt your coil springs in place thru the frame and the rear package tray, these will count as your added mounts.
- Compact trucks may run one “washer” for both cab body mounts on the topside (inside the cab only). This strap washer may not be wider than 4” and may not extend more than 4” past the body mount hole in the front and 4” in the back. You may only have two of these washers inside the cab; one on the driver’s side and one on the passenger side.
RADIATORS:
- Radiator must be in the stock position in front of the motor.
- OEM style radiators only, no homemade tube construction radiators.
- You may not add cooling capacity. No supplemental cooling devices allowed.
-Radiators may be mounted in any of the following ways:
Ratchet straps
2-3/8” all thread front and back of radiator
Welding 2-1/8” X 3” to core support bolts
NO EXPANDING FOAM or you will not run
FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEMS: - No plastic gas tanks allowed. Marine tank or metal fuel tank only.
- 5+ gallon tank recommended. No coffins, be reasonable!
- Original gas tanks must be removed from the car, unless it is in front of the rear axle.
- You must have the gas tank securely mounted behind the driver’s seat and it must be covered.
- Fuel lines must run inside the car, not under the car along the frame.
- Fuel lines must be secured to the floor and kept from pinch points
- Automotive pump gas only, NO ALCOHOL.
- Electric fuel pumps are allowed. They must be covered and have an on/off switch near the steering wheel and clearly marked in large letters.
- All lines must be double clamped.
TIRES & BRAKES:
- No tires taller than 30". 4 wheels max per car. No duals.
- No split rims or studded tires, you may use aftermarket center with various bolt patterns, 8 inch max, 14 inch for mobile home tires.
- Valve stem protectors allowed, wheel weights must be removed.
- Doubled or foam filled tires OK - we don’t like flats!
- All cars must be able to demonstrate the ability to stop at any time. If your brakes do not work, you will not compete.
- You may not change tires after inspection; ride height will be measured with your competition tires only.
BATTERIES:
- A maximum of 2 - 12 volt batteries may be used.
- They must be secured inside the car in front of the passenger seat and covered.
- Rusted out holes in your floor sheet metal may be patched where components will be mounted or for drivers safety, sheet metal only. No other sheet metal patching is allowed unless it is a safety issue. You may not patch clean and solid floors.
- When patching you may NOT weld, you may bolt, self tap or pop rivet all patches. No patch may be attached to any vertical sheet metal (firewall); all must be patched or mounted in the horizontal floorboards only. Do not mount anything within 6 inches of any body bolt.
FRAMES:
- The only frame welding allowed is from the front of the a-arms forward, no more than a ½" wide bead.
- Pinch welds may be beat over and welded a-arms forward, no more than a ½” wide bead.
- The bumper strap to frame welding is covered in the bumper section.
- NO other frame welding is allowed. No plating, stuffing, heat treating or foam filling of frames is allowed. Do NOT paint or undercoat your frame or you will not even be inspected and loaded.
- You may weld your motor mounts to the engine cradle.
- Rear frame rails may not be shortened. No dowel pinning of the frame is allowed.
- You may notch the frame for minimal pre-bending, but do NOT weld the cut.
- You may run a chain or cable or #9 wire from rear rail to rear rail behind the rearend. 3/8" chain maximum.
- You may chain or wire your rearend to the frame. You may NOT use strapping of any kind for this. Wire or chain only. 3/8" chain maximum. Chain must go around frame on full frame cars, do not bolt through the frame creating a frame pin. Uni-body cars may use 1 bolt per side thru the frame for this.
- You may not weld the chain links to create a bar effect.
- There is no frame shaping allowed at all. Do not sharpen the corners of the frame or square them in any way. The frame humps above the rear tires may be beat in for a distance of 8” in each direction from the center of the hump. That is the ONLY frame shaping that is allowed.
- Used or Pre-ran cars may fix ripped, torn, bent, or twisted frames.
- Used cars will be allowed a total of 16” x 4” x ¼” repair plate per frame rail divided however you want.
BUMPERS, BUMPER BRACKETS:
-You must start with a stock/replacement bumper but you are allowed to re-enforce inside or the backside between the shock mounts. Bumper re-enforcement may not be done in any way to stop frame bending. Bumper must appear stock from the stands, no spike or protruding items.
- Bumpers are interchangeable for all cars.
- You may weld the bumper seams, the shocks and weld any OEM car brackets to the frame. *OR* you may weld 16” of 3/8” X 3” flat plate from the bumper back if you decide not to run bumper brackets. Must have 2-1” holes cut in plate at third way points to prove thickness.
- If you choose not to use brackets, you may weld your bumper directly to the frame.
- You may not weld the bumper to the body at any time.
- Bumpers may be cut to keep them out of the tires.
- Bumpers may be flipped (upside down).
- Compression bumper shocks may be drained, slid back into the shock and welded fully.
- All bumper brackets and shock components must be OEM automotive materials.
- REAR bumper brackets may not be welded more than 8” onto the frame rail.
- You may run 4 loops of #9 wire from the radiator support to the bumper in 2 locations *OR* You may weld 2-3/8” max chain to bumper and bolt to the car A-arms forward to hold bumper on. If these act to strengthen the car in any way, they will be removed.
- You may weld a 2" x 8" x 1/4" strap from the bumper to the frame to help keep the bumper on the car. This must remain in one piece. It cannot be angled to the corner of the bumper to form a kicker. 8" is the maximum length.
SUSPENSION, SPRINGS:
- Coil to leaf conversions allowed.
- You may change coil springs.
- You may weld, bolt or chain down your a-arms. You are allowed either two 1” straps, **OR** one chain **OR** one bolt per side.
-A-arms may be reinforced.
- You may reinforce your tie rods, but you must use the OEM tie rod ends.
- Pipe Tie Rods are allowed but you must use the stock ends, no aftermarket hiems.
- Steering wheel to Steering gearbox may be modified.
- After market steering columns allowed.
- Air shock lines must be cut.
LEAF SPRINGS:
- 7 leaf maximum, 3/8" maximum thickness, 2 ½" wide maximum.
- Stagger - 2" long side (rear of axle), 2” short side (front of axle).
- 6 clamps per spring, minimum of 2 in front of the axle.
- Clamp material 1/4" thick, 2" wide, 2 – 3/8" bolts per clamp.
- U-bolts – ½” maximum, stock mounting plates must be used.
- Shackles and perches may be welded or bolted to the frame.
- No homemade or oversized u-bolts will be allowed.
- No welding on the spring pack.
- No flat sprung cars - leaf pack must have a minimum of 2" of arch.
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Post by outlawsthe1 on Aug 16, 2014 21:17:03 GMT -5
I was told today they are going to have power wheels at this show. And also you will probably want to bring lawn chairs to sit in as there is not a lot of bleachers there being it's the first demo in Leroy.
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Post by outlawsthe1 on Aug 18, 2014 9:26:28 GMT -5
The rule that says " no fresh paint or undercoat " is the rule that I can't stress enough guys and gal's! I know this is a no frame welding or plating show and that rule will be followed very well. So don't do it! Driver's are wanting change so this is the show that's going to be the test to see if it's true.
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Post by outlawsthe1 on Aug 25, 2014 12:05:59 GMT -5
Just to clear up some confusion- I'm letting people run their distributor protectors since the y are very complicated to take on and off. With that being said you must cut your firewall out 3 in. On each side of it and down to the bottom as well. Now that has nothing to do with the transmission brace! TRANSMISSION BRACES ARE NOT ALLOWED AT THIS SHOW!These are 2 separate pieces and again ARE NOT ALLOWED! READ the rules and you will understand that! And if you show up with one you will either remove it by whatever means necessary or you will not run trust me on that! TRANSMISSION BRACES ARE NOT ALLOWED! !! And if there's any questions please call me. Thank you, Trent
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Post by outlawsthe1 on Aug 27, 2014 21:25:19 GMT -5
I made a change to the rules! I'm going to allow 24in of frame welding per frame rail from the firewall forward. This does not mean the a-arms it's the frame rails. No plating just welding 1/2in. wide bead max.
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Post by roadhog304 on Aug 28, 2014 7:46:39 GMT -5
How about running a chain class heat?
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Post by outlawsthe1 on Aug 28, 2014 20:05:04 GMT -5
I would have a chain class but all the money I had donated was put into the 2 classes we have. If everything goes good at this first show it would definitely be an option for future shows.
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Post by outlawsthe1 on Sept 2, 2014 20:05:34 GMT -5
Inspection starts at 10:00 am Sunday morning. 50.00 for car and driver and pit passes are 20.00. I want to start this show at 2 pm so get there and get inspected and I don't want to have a bunch of people calling me the day of and saying they will be late. So get outta bed at get there! Thanks, Trent
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Post by crusher71 on Sept 6, 2014 17:03:51 GMT -5
SEND PICS OF THE AFTERMATH OF MY CARS.........
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