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Post by baker on Feb 14, 2011 15:18:55 GMT -5
Hello, My company- R&R Total Destruction Promotions will be running this event for the next couple of years.
Aug 5th – Lawrence, Ks 7:30pm Demo Derby Full-size ***80’s & newer ONLY*** ***$1500- $1000- $750- $500- $350- $250- $100***-OLD PAYOUT
NEW PAYOUT- $300- Mad Dog
$1800-$1200-$800-$500-$400-$300-$200-$100-$50
That's the top 9 places getting money! We added $900 to this clas
Heat winners: $75 – 3 cars from each heat.
Compacts Cars/trucks: ****$800- $600- $300- $100- $50 NO -8’s*** OLD PAYOUT
** NEW PAYOUT*** $1000- $800-$400-$300-$200-$100- top 6 places $300 Mad Dog
We added $1000 to this class. Plus $300 each class for Mad Dog award.
Now this will only change if we raise more money before the derby.
Hope this helps make some of you drivers come support what we(R&R Promotions) are trying to do for the fans and drivers.
Entry Fee: $50 Pit pass: $20
We are also working on a Bigger event for the fall or maybe next spring.
If you have any question on this event, please feel free to email me at: rkbaker3@q.com
We have now raised $2500 more for the payout. I will be updating the payout for both classes this week. I will also keep everyone posted as we raise more money.
Thanks, Rob Baker
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Post by baker on Feb 14, 2011 15:19:46 GMT -5
Full size & Compact class- please note some rules changes for 2011 R&R Total Destruction Promotions, LLC – Rob Baker 515-462-5775 General Rules: ***If car does not pass inspection or driver is unwilling to change car to pass inspection - absolutely no refunds!! 1. All rules will be followed, or you will not run!! 2. Any American make sedan or station wagon can be run. No 1970 or older Lincoln’s! No 1973 or Older imperials or Imperial sub-frames/ frames, 4x4’s, ambulances, hearses, trucks, limousines, etc… 3. Drivers must be 18 years of age and have a valid driver’s license. Ages 14 –17 must have a notarized permission slip and some form of driver’s license. The person that signs in as the driver/passenger- must be the driver/passenger for that event! 4. Driver must wear seat belt and helmet, along with eye protection. 5. ALL drivers and crewmembers must attend the drivers meeting. 6. DO NOT hit the driver’s door! Sometimes this happens, but if it looks intentional or carelessness, you will be disqualified. Don’t use your door as a shield; it may cause you to get disqualified. 7. Any open driver’s door or fire will cause disqualification. If in heat, you may fix it and come back in the consolation. 8. NO sandbagging or holding!!! You will be disqualified! You are given 20 seconds for aggressive hits, 1 minute for restarts and 1 minute if you are hung up. 9. No alcohol in the pits, if anyone is caught with alcohol, they will be disqualified, this includes their pit crew. 10. Cars are subject to re-inspection before any prize money is handed out. There is a $150 pro-test fee and you must be a driver in order to protest. Only drivers in the feature event may pro-test another car. Driver must have cash in hand directly after feature event in order to pro-test. 11. Any controversies will be taken up at the drivers meeting. 12. Any questions give us a call! If it doesn’t say you can do it, don’t do it. Call 1st!! Judges decisions are FINAL!!! Car Preparation 1. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby including trailer hitches & brackets. 2. All decking in station wagons MUST be removed!!! 3. Tires no bigger than 15 inch, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or Doubled tires OK-we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors OK. Tires may be screwed to rims. 4. Driver must have a fire coat or non-flammable jacket to wear -safety approved glasses, face shield or have FULL faced helmets. 5. You must use a radiator and it must be in stock location. All cars must have working brakes. 6. Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell and it must be properly secured and covered. No gas cans. Plastic gas tanks must be placed in a metal box!! Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat, use to be. Compacts read additional rules on back! 7. Transmission coolers will be allowed, but must be safe and properly secured. 8. Batteries must be moved to passenger floorboard close to transmission. It must be properly secured and covered. 9. You must have a number In Bright colors on each front door and must have 15”x 15” roof sign with car number on it for judging. Car building: WELDING: 1. Only the Outside of Doors, trunks & Tailgates may be welded solid with 3 inch wide straps x 3/16 inch thick or smaller fill materials. Top of the doors may be rolled over and welded with no added materials. If you decide not to weld, then you are allowed to chain/bolt/wire them shut with UNLIMITED use of chain/bolts/wires. 2. You can weld frame seam from the front of the A-arms forward top side only! You are allowed 16 inches of additional frame welding from the firewall/dash mounts forward per frame rail( full size cars only – not compacts). Frame seams can be re-welded if seam has broke apart or missed by factory welder but must call first! Must skip weld that area to prove it was broken or missed. The frame seam weld can’t be larger then 1/2” wide or it will be cut!! The uni-body is considered the frame on Mopar cars, which means No bolting the seam. 3. For driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, you may also have a bar across your dash, you may connect the dash bar to bars behind seat across the inside of front door only, you may also weld your steering column in, you can also weld a plate across the driver’s door not to exceed 6 inches past each seam. You may have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the top of the frame or floor and welded or bolted to the roof – no kickers going to the back or front of the car. Back of cage including roll bar, can only be 10” from back of seat. Dash bar must be 6” from dash sheet metal and floor. Dash bar must be located no farther back the inside seam of front doors. You will be allowed 2 down bars on the inside on driver’s door going down from the inside cross bar. Allowed 1 down bar on the inside of the passenger’s front door but can not be any farther forward then the inside front door seam & not to frame or body mount. Bumpers: 4. Bumpers are interchangeable. Any Automotive bumper and bumper brackets may be used on any car but only 1 set of brackets may be used! No homemade bumpers or brackets. You can weld bumper brackets and towers to the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock towers. You can collapse shocks and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with 1/2 inch bolt or less and it must be done vertically. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding on the bumper skins together (chrome to inner liner of bumper) is allowed. When welding bumpers, shocks and brackets – do not add any metal. Weld shocks and brackets solid if you wish. Weld them well; we don’t want any bumpers falling off! 5. Bumpers may be welded to end of frame with no added metal, just use the welder. Rear bumper may have 2 straps, 2- chains or 2-wires (4 loops) from trunk deck or tailgate to bumper (not frame). You can only have 1 of the 3 used, NOT all 3! Straps can be up to 3” wide and no more than 5” on the bumper and 5” on the trunk or tailgate. Straps may be up to ¼” thick. You are allowed wire from radiator support to front bumper in 4 locations. *** 6. Stock appearing bumpers- we will allow you to take any bumper apart. Weld any material you would like to the inside of the bumper. Weld the crome skin back into place. Everything must be done inside of bumper- FIX bumper! HOOD/TRUNKS: 7. You can fold hoods or trunk decks over but 60% of the hood or trunk lid must be in factory location. No tucking of wagon roof on Leaf spring wagons. 80’s & newer wagons may tuck roof down with 4 spots holding the roof down to the car body only—NOT Frame 8. 2 - 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to frame, MUST go threw body mount hole .You may use wire in 2 spots with 4 loops from trunk lid and may go around the frame with the wire. CAN’T DO BOTH. Trunk meets floor maybe attached in 2 spots to floor-2 bolts
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Post by baker on Feb 14, 2011 15:20:06 GMT -5
HOOD/TRUNK: 9. **Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in cast of fire. You are allowed 12 extra- 3/8” bolts to bolt your hood skins (NOT TRUNK SKIN) back together. You will be allowed 8 hood bolts; you MUST have at least 4 hood bolts. You may have up to 1” all thread –2 may be used from the hood down to the frame, but must go through the front body mounts. The top 5” of all thread may be welded to radiator support. Chrysler products may run all thread behind radiator support down to top of frame and be welded to top of frame with no added material – All thread may pass thru frame. Hood bolts must be sheet metal to sheet metal. Hood must be open for inspection. Plates for hood bolts cannot exceed 5x5x1/2 inch. Hood bolts can be up to 1 inch in diameter. 10. Body mount bolts can be replaced with 1” bolts, Bolts may extend threw body and have up to a 5”x 5” x ¼”thick washer on top. Bolt must be up inside of frame as factory and may have larger washer inside of frame. Washers inside frame may not be used as a gusset! If there is factory rubber mount without a body bolt, you can add the bolt to the mount. SUSPENSION: 11. Suspension must be at stock height. Leaf springs must be stock, you may add one spring as long as the main leaf spring, you can't wrap the added leaf spring to make a double main - tow packages OK. The Main leaf spring must be the top spring in the spring pack and leaf springs must stagger down with at least a 2 inch stagger from longest to smallest. You can re-clamp springs, 6 clamps per side homemade or factory. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4 inch. You can put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height. You can bolt or wire coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them from becoming unbolted. You can loop chain or wire from rear end & springs to frame in 4 spots on each side. No bigger then #9 wire or 3/8”chain or cable may be used. 12. Mopars can weld mounting brackets to uni-body where leaf springs are mounted factory to uni-body frame. Include rear shackle box. 13. Rear-end control arms may be reinforced, but must be workable. They may be shortened or made longer as well. No Homemade!! 14. Use rear end of choice, must be factory 5 lugs. You can tilt rear end if you wish. Welded or posi-track highly recommended 15. Rear-end Housings may be re-enforced. Hybird rear-ends are allowed- must be mounted in factory location of car that you put in under! *****16. Front arms may be bolted, chained or welded down to get your bumper height. Welding- 2 straps 2” on frame 2” on A-arm ENGINE MOUNTING: 17. Engine mounts may be welded to engine cradle. Engine must be mounted in stock location. Any skid plates on engine or tranny can only be mounted to engine/tranny and can NOT be attached to frame or cross member. 18. Use motor and tranny of choice, motor must be in stock location. You may chain or weld motor and tranny to keep in place (don’t strengthen the frame). Nothing on the engine can be used to re-enforce the frame/car body, etc. If any parts on the engine or tranny are being used to make the car stronger, you will be asked to cut or take that part off before you can run. 19. You may have a 2-2” strap from the motor head to frame on top side of frame next to A-arm on front side of motor and can be welded with no added metal! You will be allowed 2- 2” straps on the rear of the motor connected from the motor heads to the Frame. If this is used to re-enforce frame, straps will be cut! If you have Dist Protector, you can’t have rear straps on engine to rails frame! ***20. You may have tranny braces along the side of the tranny, not top side. The braces must be attached to tail house and bell housing of tranny only. Can not be connected to tranny mount or cross member. Braces can ‘t be bigger then 2”X 2” STEERING: 21. Tie-rods ends must be stock, but the center can be re-enforced, A-arms, ball joints and all other steering/suspension must remain stock. You may alter your steering column to prevent loss of steering. Steering knuckles, homemade steering shafts, etc. FENDERS: 22. You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance & you may weld fender over tire back together. Fenders may also be bolted together with 12-3/8” bolts or less. The rear quarter panel is considered part of the rear fender. MISC: 23. For safety, you are allowed 1 strap in each door window opening straps can be 2” wide – ¼” thick and can be welded 5” on the door & 5” on the roof – you may not use wire if you use straps ** Hardtop cars may have another strap at the door post. You must have 2 bars in windshield from roof to dash for safety reasons. The windshield bar can’t be any bigger then 3” wide- 5” on dash – 5” on roof only. 24. You can run shifter through floor and you can have a switch panel. You may also have a hand throttle. If you are running an electric fuel pump – must be hooked up to your ignition switch – so when your car shuts off – it shuts off. 25. You are allowed 2 spots with 4 loops of #9 wire or 1 loop of 3/8 cable with 1 turn buckle in each window opening and may go to the frame. Turn Buckle can only be no bigger then 6inches. You may weld washers around holes on car body. 26. You may run wire from frame rail to frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear-end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain/cable in 1 spot only. This must go around the frame, it can not be bolted to the frame. 27. You are allowed to bolt Factory body seams together. NO WELDING!!!! ***28.Dist. Cap protectors will be allowed on all cars. The protector can only be mounted to engine and or tranny bell housing. There must be 6 inches of clearance between the Fire wall/dash sheet metal and the dash bar at the start of the event. Dist. Cap protector can't be mounted to body, frame, cage. No rear engine straps can be connected to DP! DP can’t be bigger the 12”X12” ***29. 1977 & newer GM’s only can weld 1 plate on the outside only 1 side of rear arch over rearend. This plate can only be 6 inches wide, 22 inches long and ¼” thick. You must drill a ½” hole in the plate so that we can see the thickness. You will not be allowed to patch over this plate if it bends! You must follow the frame rails with the plate. ***30. Gas tank protector are allowed, no wider than 24 inches in center of car, must be at least 1” away from rear sheet metal. This may angle straight back from rear seat bar in center of car and must be 4” off the floor. Gas tank can’t be connected to protector unless gas tank is mounted to top of protector and not to floor. Protector must be free floating- not connected to anything but back bar! RUST REPAIR & FRAME REPAIR: 31. You may repair rusted out sheet metal with sheet metal only. Leave the rust in place and repair over it. Rusted out frames may be repaired with 3/16 inch or less. You are allowed to weld the patch 2 inches past the rusted out area, leave the rust in place. 32. Bent frames my be repaired with 3/16 inch metal 2 inches past the bend, but only on 2 sides of the frame. The patch may be welded solid, but you must have a 1/2 inch hole in the patch. You can only repair the frame once in each place. No re-patching or layering of patches.
COMPACT CLASS: In addition to the above rules- 4 & 6 Cylinders only. 1. Any-Front wheel driver 108" compact car but rear wheel driver compact cars must have a 105” or less wheelbase. If the stock gas tank is located under the car but in front of rear axle, the stock gas tank may be used. 2. Can only weld front side of A-arms/struts forward, top side only. NO welding any where else on frame or uni-body. 3. When using stock tank under car, must relocate Fill tube threw floor into backseat area. Secure fill tube to sheet metal.
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Post by baker on Feb 14, 2011 15:52:18 GMT -5
This event we are working on would be a 2 man team event.
Sedan's only- 80's and newer
Looking at the following for payout:
$4000-1st $3000-2nd- $2000- 3rd $1000-4th.
$2000- heavy hitter team
Entry would be $150/team.
This would be held in the fall at lawrence fair grounds.
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Post by rookie101 on Feb 14, 2011 16:26:33 GMT -5
i dont derby anymore and not on here much either but I think Rob is a good promoter - he is FAIR and that hasnt happened in Lawrence for a long long time...I talked to Rob several years ago about this derby and glad to hear he got in the door - give the man a chance - i ran 2 of his shows and thought the inspections were good, the rules were good and had good officiating...anyhow give the man a chance - maybe Lawrence can get back to the old days when they had a ton of cars show up!! Good luck Rob!
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Post by blackspot on Feb 14, 2011 21:53:38 GMT -5
i havent went to lawrence in 10 years. this might just get me back
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Post by amp88 on Feb 14, 2011 22:24:15 GMT -5
COMPACT CLASS: In addition to the above rules- 4 & 6 Cylinders only. 1. Any-Front wheel driver compact car but rear wheel driver compact cars must have a 106” or less wheelbase. If the stock gas tank is located under the car but in front of rear axle, the stock gas tank may be used.
any front wheel drive car? i dont know i aint liking that one bit, some of those are mid size cars not compacts. not impressed
and the fire jackets are you really going to force people to go buy those, wouldnt affect me since i got one but thats a added 75$ i bet
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Post by BDT22 on Feb 15, 2011 0:53:58 GMT -5
Pm sent baker. We will keep it off this thread.
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Post by crusher71 on Feb 15, 2011 0:59:36 GMT -5
and the fire jackets are you really going to force people to go buy those, wouldnt affect me since i got one but thats a added 75$ i bet I HAVE SEEN HORRENDOUS TRANSMISSION FIRES, LIVED THROUGH A NASTY BOTTOM END EXPLOSION ON A STUCK THROTTLE DEAL THAT ENGULFED THE WHOLE UNDERSIDE AND HALF THE INTERIOR..... AND WATCHED AS A FRIEND THAT HAD A FUEL TANK COME LOOSE INSIDE THE CAR, HAVE 5 GALLONS ERUPT ALL AROUND HIM, GET PULLED FROM IT BY 2 SPECTATORS AND SPEND 3 YEARS GETTING SKIN GRAFTS........ YOU ARE WORRIED ABOUT A $75.00 FIRE JACKET BEING A BIG EXPENSE? EVER PRICE 3 WEEKS IN A HOSPITAL BURN UNIT? LAME ARGUMENTS ABOUT SPENDING MONEY ON SAFETY EQUIPTMENT GO ON DEAF EARS..... WE CAN SPEND 600 BUCKS ON A SLINKY SHAFT, BUT NOT A DIME ON A FIREJACKET? DONT HAVE ONE? DONT RUN......... PRETTY SIMPLE......ITS CALLED COMMON SENSE....ALL PROMOTERS SHOULD REQUIRE IT AS MANDATORY......PERIOD...
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Post by cutwhat on Feb 15, 2011 9:03:33 GMT -5
Hate to say it but jon has a good point. Everyone spends thousands on drive lines but nothing on safety. If $75 is going to break you then you might want to look for a new sport
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Post by baker on Feb 15, 2011 9:23:34 GMT -5
Sorry, I over looked that I had left out the wheel base chnages for 2011.
Front wheel driver compact have to be 108" or less and rearwheel driver has to be 105" or less for the compact class.
We suggest a fire coat/suit, but you must wear a jacket, pants(no shorts) safty helmet with shield or some type of eye protection.
Thanks and if you have any other question, feel free to ask.
Rob Baker R&R promotions
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Post by frost143 on Feb 15, 2011 10:10:51 GMT -5
Paul most of the bigger derbies require a fire jacket or suit anyways. I'm sure everyone can put up the 50-75$ to purchase something. I'm sure we will see you in your Intimadator suit ;D
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Post by baker on Feb 15, 2011 17:38:07 GMT -5
I also wanted to let everyone know what we allow for the watts conversion.
You are allowed to cut the center package tray out of an older 80's ford and weld it in the center of the newer package tray for your upper contraol arms. This may not to connected to frame rails.
For the bottom, you cut of a set of lower bracket and weld the factory bracket on the newer frame for the lower control arms.
Thanks and hope this clears things up. Rob
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Post by crusher71 on Feb 15, 2011 20:57:42 GMT -5
SHOULD REQUIRE FULL FACE HELEMT...... SEEN A GUY WITH A HALF MOTORCYCLE HELEMT AND ANOTHER WITH FOOTBALL HELMET LAST SEASON....NOT GOOD. AND CURIOUS ABOUT THE ""4 TIE DOWNS PER SIDE FROM REAR END TO FRAME? SLIGHTLY EXCESSIVE?
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Post by baker on Feb 16, 2011 9:19:28 GMT -5
R&R has had that rules for year on th e 4 spot to tie your rearend/spring to frame.
The reason we allow that is to help keep the spring packs on mopars tied to the uni-bdy frame in the rear. They love to tear away from the frame/floor in the back.
The Gm wagons get some help with this rules as well. We felt that if you can fix the rear control arms on the coil spring car, which make it almost impossible to tear out the rear end, that we should allow more spots to tie the rear end/spring to the frame as well.
As long as we've been doing events and competing, we have had drivers chain/wire/cable the rearends in at different spots and different combination. They would chain the center of rearend- chain up threw coil spring to frame- chain axle tubes to frame- etc. We just decide to allow 4 spots on each side so this will allow some to get everything covers without us having to agrues with them about this.
Good question and I hope i've answered it.
NOW on 03 & newer-
YOu can't weld in an engine cradle- a-arm mounts & etc.
You must use the factory cradle and steering. You can fix the tie-rods and different steer shaft, but nothing else.
I know many of you have or want to run the 03 & newers, but unitl I can get other promoters/fair to agree with a set of rules for these cars, this is how R&R is handling them for 2011.
I know some of you will disagree with R&R about the 03 & newer, but you can build another car and still come play.
Thanks, Rob Baker
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